black lace

Shame it ever said temp protected really, and not temp settable, because everyone hangs on the protected word, if in the begining with the dna 40 it just flashed up the set value in large bold figurers, i think would have been better,, i must be a set and forget, becaue i hate to see it flashing up, no matter what i change the screen pic too, so allways aim for just below that max line.. weve all got our quirks of achieving the same thing aint we.

He started it... lmao...lmao....

I think its you that is excited fantasising about what im dressed in.. no matter what im dressed in, my feet touch the floor when i sit on a chair.

Well no because you wouldnt pay for the privalage of testing somthing, it would have to be in house.

Still trying to work out why you come back and fourth, youve clearly stated you dont like it,, its not my fault you cant get yer coil to work, youve been messing with it for two days. Probly moor mangled than my posts, Its obviously doing your head in, you started the thread by having a pop at evolv, then you got part of a post deleated because you had a pop at someone els, now your having a pop at me.. Laughable. I suggest you take what youve got to a vape shop, vape shop not ecig store, someone whos into mods and coil building and politly ask them face to face to help you with it.

I havent given you any technical input, you know very well.. chunkybutt has inputted with great patience to a project i dont believe will be built, anouther person besides myselfe has said to be technicaly difficult and stupid, i honestly believe if it where a 300 watt board you would still be here sayin you whant 400.

Several different wires from several different firms i would hope.. the stainless i finaly got working was 430 and .355 or somthing and was said to be 27 awg. It only worked for me and i emphasise the for me bit when i only inputted the measurement and left the awg bit blank, but for all the messing about im not a fan. As far as insults go, looking at the thread from the begining i'm not the only person your having a problem with.. i suggest you address the chip on your sholder beffor the chip in your board.

I think your wasting the blokes time, as soon as your asked what is it for, you send pm's challanging people and when asked to put a pic of one of your 200watt plus coil builds up you start throwing your toys out your pram.

No screen shot off me and i could have put anything up but one of the burdens of being 100% honest and reliable i can tell you its moor trouble than its worth. Ni 200 is an absolute brezze. Stealth NIFe 30 an easy step up, ii have no idear why they dont stok ss.

Thought it was rubarb from the very onset, but decided to feed it every tea break while building this little dog a kennel, lol. if the littl B would get in it i will post a shot and will include .. to stay on subject.. a mech mod dna 200 combination, its quite a simple build realy, but you will need an elastic band..

In that case i misinterpreted the thread at start point. a hypathetical question and a theretical method solution leading to build a mod that would power these coils, with an on board or (in mod) dna200 cross over option. as you know coils are so divers leading to the same result, you may generate some intrest off other coil specialists who may see somthing that can be slightly changed and then integrated onto the 200 board achieving the same result. It wasnt a put yer money where your mouth is response (trying to put you on the ropes so to speak), and i have two white elephants of mods that seemed like a good idear at the time, i wasnt going off on a tangent, talking about wild life, how evere i do believe its the warmer climate change brings them out.

Thanx for your replie, am on mobile,, and also your pm and in answer to your pm" no i dont have any experiance in switching a 200 from a paralal circuit, nore do you and why would i.. i have other mods, cont,,, inued,, without getting too tecnical i cant see how you would have any sucsess in compleatly isolating the 200 in say a metel enclosure because ground points are also the cradle, also i know several people who like to vape trying different complexo builds in different drippers, powerd by both mechanical and vv/vw, i cant say i have noticed anyone carry one mod and change out attys, carrying a seperate atty, moor two mods, because of battery life, so the logic of practical use i think the mod build will be somthing of a white elephant. Could you also put up a pic up of one of your dual coil builds that requires 200 plus watts with a full materials list wrap and mandrel and method breakdown, you say you wish to be open with the mod build (in spite of leaving pm's) and have peopls time attention and effort so i think its only right..

your very right, similar to the op, first paragraph, I bought some 430 a month ago, built one coil, it didn't work for me, I could see one leg glowing red looking down the chimney, a month later,,I had another go with it,,, wrapping a lead leg round a kayfun deck screw, its so tough it just unwinds it,, got it up and running,, went to it next day,, flat vape,, had to increase the temp from 380f to 530f to get a pull off it,, took it to bits, leads come loose. its not my thing but these pre built coils that you have to screw into the atty, the leads are jammed into place so that problem doesn't happen, so an atty with a screw in coil, when the coil does fail they just fit another, and say its abetter mod,,, evolve haven't even released a mod yet..

you got my sympathy mate, I have read the mentioned above and the following threads and believe its moor a mess with it until it works, and the issue mentioned where probbl;y the coil, the bucket of water thing was just a second example taken from the great book of crap, that's all, I also build my own and know theres nothing worse than it going tits up after all the work, like I said in my first reply, the only thing I have witnessed going click was when I had the back off a new build, screwing in the atty for the first time, the bottom popped off the 510 connector, had I have fiered that it would have shorted against the side of the enclosure, it probbly took two hours to put it right, one thing i'm very fussy about is cleanliness, these factories that produce mods, and the same as most electricals are operating theater clean, I air blast the inner of the mod to be sure there are no bits of swarf, filings or strands of wire, can you put a few pics of the board up..

Sorry mate i found your answer irratating i couldnt have put the question any simpler.

Sorry to bother you our mate but im sure you have your reasons for the build::: please share them..

What model mod was it? And have you looked inside to confirm the fuse has gone? I would have my money on the bottom of the 510 breaking off with a click sound, never heard a fuse do it, heard a circuit breacker but not fuse. Sorry mate i cant help but laugh, you gotta see the funny side, you took some advice and murderd it..classic. should have soaked it in a bucket of water overnight, epic..

Again.. lewis id throw that cable away if i where you, it may burn somthing out,

Throw that cable away beffor it burns somthing out.

The boss said they are working on it. Dont think they will just push anything out so will test it until they are happy.

Im quite new to using or experamenting with differnt tc wires from ni and am having some sucsess with ss and nifi30, do you think that competitors may appear to have it sussed because they may have selectable preset course tcr values for different wires like ti or ss, and so when a user has difficulty he looks at his coil build or deck screws and sorts and finds the fault from there, what i'm getting at is our dna200 has so much open and tweakable, one can overlook a simple problem and end up in a tiresome mess. saying a board aint no good because a user has done somthing like clamped down a .40mm wire so tight with a deck screw with a sharp bured base, the coil end is now cut and squashed and become moor like .15mm then start messing with alsorts of csv files and settings because it wont run, start slating the board on the forum, when the problems been caused by their lack of basic skill, you can allways tell when someones got the problem fixed because they stop feeding the thread and they never admit what they did wrong.

On yer mod adjust temp down button,,, keep going down,, it will change to centigrade,,,or verse vicer for faranheight, the last average temp achieved is what your set at in temp mode. There is no need for room temp, the board will be room temp if you unuse the mod for several hours but thats debatable depending on what the enclosure is made of,, are you thinking about temperature and resistance readings..

I like the buttons

do you mean car charger on console in car cigarette lighter socket, or car battery boost charger?

don't worry, its called, researching and developing the product by talking to the consumer and listening to their feedback,,, a good title might be early adopters forum..