black lace

not sure what your calling a heat sink, as far as I know there is no heat sink as standard on the board as far as named "heat sink" can you put a shot up.. are you referring to an inductor, one of two,,, check this thread.. /topic/66994-topic/?do=findComment&comment=902800

I would get the batteries out, it sounds like you need to get to the bottom of the rattling noise, it sounds like you have a short..

yeah but no but yeah, if he was on an airplane at this present moment in time would he also be F***ing about with a broken mod connected to a PC ,lamo,,

Yes fair comment we can all only bring our individual experiance in.. i havent had the pic up on computer screen but can see on my mobile, that board realy has got hot, the solder looks like its flowed.

unfortunate. you need to email evolv, hopefuly you can put an rma through, i think you need some proof of purchase though, youl know moor once you do it, always at the weekend ay" Bill 50 if you click on a persons title you get their profile up..lamo.

Ok, so once you have got it to wake up it works, and when it goes to sleep it wont wake up unless you plug it into the computer... i trust you have downloaded and updated latest firmware. if you have only just bought it, i would contact the vendor, If you have owned it for some time, you need to email evolv.

Ok... If your pressing the fire button and it only very rarely works, thats a bad contact, as fare as i know the on board fire button is waterproof, so its protected from dirt, dust juice ect, does that mod work via a pushrod down onto the board fire button.?

If your saying its working but the screen isnt on, HAVE YOU GOT IT IN STEALTH MODE.. LOCK DEVICE HOLD IN BOTH FIRE AND DOWN BUTTON..

Does it fire. Edit sos am on mobile, do a search, for the thread in report a bug (common problems) a good list of typical fault finding tips.

Yeh..... ness ya get juice all over its inards and burn it out .. lol..

The second shot in the op, you can see some kind of spillage running out the two airholes,,, back to basics, if you leave a mod liying on its side or rattling around in the bottom of a bag, the tank atomiser will leak its contents, also, allways switch the mod off, standard five clicks, lipo batteries can be volatile if not looked after properly. dont stuff the mod into storage where somthing can press the buttons.

You havent actualy said how you came by this (excuse me) basket case.. what im getting at is, did you see it up and running, ive sold numerouse motor cycles and cars and trucks and made it quite clear when advertizing them in their broken state, and yet purchasers come along (no disrespect to you) and happily drag them off, overlooking the question if it was worth fixing would she not have?..

Evolutionary, Same reason as you swaped yours mate, i'm cycling four dna200s as my daily devises, and there are four dna40 hammond buils and two g box builds sat on a shelf, only getting used by a select few when they need theirs fixed. Two are 1590a single 18650 with mitec firing buttons and ftv mk3 510, two are 1590b with twin paralall 26650, mitec firing button and low profile, slotted profile v4 ftv 510, two aluminium g/box with twin paralall 18650, again mitec firing button and ftv low profile, flat profile 510. so far i havnt had a single bite, post a link to this facebook site where people are swapping 200s for 40s,,,,

Anybody in england wants to swap a dna200 for one of my dna40s pm me and i'll supply pictures of three different build types two of each..including good quality samsung chargers..

I was determined i wasnt going to spend the price of a mod on tools, so a soldering iron from fleabay for less tan a tenner a pack of cheap and nasty little files for less than a fiver and a few quality drill bits and centre punch for a second hand battery drill, all the tools have been used on other jobs, like new charger boards on tablets, done three of thoes Built twelve mods in as many months. And no end of repairs and conversions.

No, set it for the 3000,. The first i built i ran it for two weeks beffor conecting it to a computer, it was default set at 750mah lipo, and i was running 1300mah lipo and no issues,

If its any insparation, the workbench in my room is 18inch from front to back and three foot long and i sit at it on bedside draws, it aint a race, moor of a marathon, once the first ones built your geared up..

When you say eratic, do you mean, real time vaping while looking at the device monitor, this is one of the issues i had, allways trying to go over temp, hiting the limit, i think you'd probly have to try different guage wire, wraps mandrel sizes power, files, ect to get it to calm down, ,, for me it was a deciding factor to say sod this and throw it in a draw,,, im happy to spend two days building a mod from scratch get swarf in my eye burn and cut my fingers,,, at the end of the day i whant somthing to vape on, i dont like stsinless it dont like me.. ni200 is a doddle to work with, if i need extra resistance for twin coiling Nife 30 is easy and as reliable as kanthal.

Tar very much ( anouther tip collected ) smiling face. I have. Oh yeh spud bloke, good question, might be an idear to turn preheat right down or off, but im not entirly sure because i havnt checked, but read on hear that the dna200 will auto switch to whatever your using, if this is the case your going to have to find a way to hard lock it to the ni200 tfr to replicate the dna40 performance on your titanium coil.

Just buy a ready made blank from modcrate, or stealth vape, Dont think theres anouther mod out there with the same pattern holes. And you would be doubling your expence to do a conversion job where it wasnt needed.

Its allways going to be what works for the end user, (after getting it to work) ive got my preheat turned off and am using twin claptoned ni200/ 6 spaced wraps/1:50mm mandrell/ .30mm wire wraped around .40mm. Straight off the mod temp on the standard ni200 setting, no messing with files, (except for turning off preheat). On a v2 mutation x dripper. Lavly.

no worries,, don't let me convert you from what your trying to get to grips with (stainless) I said it before each to there own, but theres nothing worse than building and carefuly fitting and wicking a coil only to find that its gone tits up within the hour, going through the threads on here it seems to be the most problematic material, i'm having good consistent results with stealth Nife 30, (and he ships world wide) and you never hear a bad word about ni200,,,,,,,,,,,,

have you sat on it.?

Whats that in? A Kanger? Ni200 is a lot moor forgiving than stainless, ((no man will argue with that)) ((no man i say)) Must be me that had the wrong wirers then, the stainless coils i built where out of the 430 grade, would be fine on initial start up and then going back to it after half hour cooling, it would perform as described above. am now using stealth Nife30, it is just head ach free

Mate i havnt got any to try one for you but your :35ohm, off the top of my head, sounds high for only 5 wraps stainlesd, i know you aint mentioned what size mandrel your using, are you sure youve got stainless, i would have put money on it being Nife/ ...am on mobile at the moment so cant play with the steam engin calculator and find what size manfrell your using to get that 35/31ohm. You can just use evolvs preset stainless tfr on a simple coil.