ChunkyButt200

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ChunkyButt200 last won the day on October 15

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About ChunkyButt200

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  1. @Anusit it appears your lipo is on it's way out or dead. You can try USB Recovery but i'm not sure if it works below 2 volts a cell. Either way, with a lipo that far over-drained it is best to replace it with new. ONE OPTION>>>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/UPGRADE-LIPO-BATTERY-1300mAh-3S-11-1V-EFUSION-VAPECIGE-CUSTOM-EVOLV-DNA-200-250/272517143930?hash=item3f73499d7a:m:maVwXKjZiS5g_nUNSbq71Sw
  2. Is the zif socket on the board damaged in any way? Maybe from when the original screen was ripped out? Look for bent or missing pins or a broken / poorly closing latch. Also make sure the screen ribbon is fully inserted into the connector before closing the latch. Maybe try reflashing the firmware as well, couldn’t hurt.
  3. Hi, @Pjr. Can you post a screenshot of Device Monitor, while firing the device? You're saying there is a noticeable delay from when you press the fire button to when the atty actually fires? As for the screen not updating output voltage, that may be a theme field issue rather than something wrong with the firmware. I will say the fields do not update terribly fast, though should update nonetheless.
  4. Sorry to hear that @Joelfe1. With freshly charged cells in the mod, what does EScribe's Device Monitor say for cell-1 and cell-2? Can you post, here, a screenshot of Device Monitor with all of the battery option boxes ticked?
  5. Is there any chance of returning or exchanging the mod? If not, Evolv does offer a 1 year warranty on the board. You can open a help ticket with Evolv, through the link in my signature, below.
  6. Have you tried restarting your PC and only opening n the EScribe program? be sure to disconnect any usb hubs as well. Try different USB ports as well. When connecting a device for the first time to a PC, it should see the device and say “installing device driver” (or something like that). What happens if you downgrade the version of EScribe to next version down? Tried a few different usb cables?
  7. my guess is a bad screen or intermittent screen ribbon-to-board connection. it appears you only have backlight and no pixels turning on. RMA time.
  8. The DNA 75 needs to see a minimum of 2.5v volts to even power on and to stay powered on. Go below that voltage and the LDO's that power the components on the board (MCU) drop out. I set my cell soft cutoff value to 2.65v on all my DNA 75's. The 75 is a power board when running at it's max 75w's. i'd recommend some Sony VTC5A's or LG HD2C's. I use both cells and both perform well, with minimal voltage drop at 75w's.
  9. @Dann76 the calculated Wh will always be higher than actual (real world). the reason for that is there is some losses, heat mainly, between the battery and your atty. either number will work, just the actual measured Wh will make your battery meter more accurate. as for the cell soft cutoff, i use 2.65v - 2.85v. when battery analyzer asks for a resistor, what i use is loops of kanthal in an old velocity RDA clone. 4, 4 inch loops of 22 gauge kanthal. this setup dissipates heat from the test very well. you can also use an atty with no cotton. just know it may get very hot (and heat up the mod as well) depending on what wattage you set the test at. i wouldn't go over 50-60w's with a cotton-less build "resistor". i might even set the mod in front of a fan, while running BA, to keep everything cool.
  10. is this charging IC "TSOT 23" outline? do you have it mounted on a PCB with enough copper to dissipate the heat (GND plane, decent sized copper traces, thermal pad)? or are you "dead bugging" the IC? being this linear charger is only 150 mA, this charger is meant for very small capacity cells, not the fastest / best for large lipos or 18650's. post a picture of your setup, a good quality photo. the cells you're using as well. (through a private message) LTC4054>>> Maximum Junction Temperature .......................... 125°C (max temperature the die can handle before failing from overheating) Operating Temperature Range (Note 2)....–40°C to 85°C (as long as you're not over 85c, you'll be OK) if i were you i would look into something else, maybe a different charging IC? I use the TP4056 charging IC. you can even buy complete TP4056 charging PCB's for very cheap. https://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/datasheets/Prototyping/TP4056.pr @lengfeng this is a forum for people who have questions about their Evolv products, not for general electronics questions. please private message me your response to this post, if you want to, rather than posting here. i will try and help you that way.
  11. I don't think the DNA 60 would survive a "boost" feature. The board nearly blows it's guts out trying maintain 60w for more than 5 secs. It's such a tiny board with an inability to expel the heat generated at higher wattages. the heat builds up very quickly, angering the 0201 sized smd ntc tucked between those two inductors, triggering the "too hot" message. It's a great board, just not the right board if you want run your .1 ohm "Triple Dragon Scale Fused Magnetron" coils on. I would agree the OG 75 would do well with a boost, as long as you're within the 6.2v range. The 200 and 250, naw. There's enough "boost" from the, already, twin turbo'd dual buck circuitry that currently exists on those two pcb's. 200/250 watts is enough to get your coils pumping out vapor, fast. IMO Besides, i hear Evolv is incorporating the "A11 Boinic" and "Coil Face ID" in it's next iteration of boards. The board will visually recognize the atty and it's resistance by you merely holding it up to the screen. magic!
  12. @Dna only try and re-flash the firmware. could be a glitch in the matrix.
  13. yes you can use thermal paste on the inductors and it will be absolutely fine if they touch the inside casing of the mod. there is no electrical connection between the inductor's casing and the board.
  14. it's normal to up the temp after refinement has done it's thing. (before refinement) just think of it as......when you initially screw on your atty and you set your temp limit to "370F", you're more than likely 50F - 80F (estimating) above 370F. after refinement (now a more accurate, lower base resistance), you're actually vaping at 370F, which is too cool of a vape for you. upping your temp after refinement does negate the point of having any board with refinement. the board is working exactly as it was designed. temp control on these boards, in terms of accuracy and repeatability is the cat's pajamas.
  15. is this the Hcigar mod that can be ran from either 2 or 3 cells? can you run a quick test for me? with it in 3 cell mode (3 cells installed), go into EScribe, under the "mod" tab in the "battery" section you'll see "type" select "power supply" and upload to your mod. see if your mod fires an atomizer normally. if it DOES fire, this means your analog front is bad (board is dead, basically). DO NOT think this is a fix or workaround. this is just a quick temporary way to see what's broken. running the mod in "power supply" mode, with a battery, offers 0 battery protection / safety. another cause, albeit a slim one, could be a poor balance tap wire connection from sled to board. either way, contact whoever you purchased the mod from and inquire about a refund / return. last option, if the vendor and HCigar fails you, is to contact Evolv via a "help ticket" from their website.