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ChunkyButt200 last won the day on January 16

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About ChunkyButt200

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  1. ,The "warranty service" message could also be due to a damaged usb cable. Can you post a screenshot of Device Monitor with all of the battery section boxes ticked?
  2. I had this happen to me with my DNA 40 Xvostick. It was due to either leftover soldering flux or ejuice near or on the external button pinout on the DNA 40 board itself. I had to take the mod completely apart and clean the board with 99% iso alcohol. This solved the problem. Also, as dwcraig1 said, it could also be a stuck (stuck closed) down button.
  3. @Willy 1.) Yes you can use the non data 1 amp micro USB charging board. As you said, using this charger will render the DNA 60 sans EScribe. 2.)Yes you can the ANY of the 128x32 OLED's (Do your spare OLED's have the red or green pull screen protector tab? I ask because the red tab'd screens are the most recent screens and are compatible with the 60, 75, 200 and 250 but not the 40. The old green tab'd screens (i think) work with the 40, 60, 75, 200 and 250.) Any other question feel free to ask.
  4. Most anything with a PCB (circuit board) has ceramic capacitors these days. These MLCC capacitors are notorious for failing due to a wide variety of situations, but mainly heat and mechanical stress (drops) are the big two causes. This type of failure is common to everything from our vape devices to cell phones and everything in between. These ceramic caps can fail full short to partial short. It sounds to me like you may have a cap on the batt rail that is partially shorted to ground. I suspect a lot of these "my device drains cells when idle" or "my device gets hot when idle" could be this very problem. No fault of Evolv's, it just the nature of electronics. That's where Evolv's or the manufacturers warranty comes into play. Failed MLCC cap circled in red.......
  5. @iqbalmuttaqien None of the DNA boards can do TC for kanthal or nichrome. Only wattage for those materials. However, you can add a preheat "boost" to non TC materials with the latest international firmware.
  6. @bootsy Not sure about a UK based seller but Evolv sells the Fullymax 900mah Lipo on their website. Also IMR Batteries sells an Efest version (900mah, similar dimensions). As for the bullet connectors, you'll have to swap them from the old Lipo to the new.
  7. @JCMemphis My best guess is the NTC sensor (board's temp sensor) on the board has failed or has been knocked off, either do to drop or during mod assembly. The mod is cool to the touch? Contact Volcano Ecigs about a return. Evolv does warranty the board itself for 1 year, there is that route as well.
  8. @67exec The 75, 75C and 60 share the same exact DC DC converter topology. All 3 are in the 85% efficient range. IMO, all 3 boards exhibit about the same thermal characteristics, the DNA 60 suffering the most due to it being physically smaller. I honestly can't say one board, over the other, gets hotter when running it under similar vaping conditions. There is one possible explanation i can think of. If the mod with the 75C board is sinked better to the housing than the mod with the OG 75, then yes you would "feel" the heat more so on the 75C device. @Nc16703 Like Giz mentioned, I would contact Evolv through their help desk. The board, itself, carries a 1 year warranty.
  9. What are the ohms reading on the device when you fire it?
  10. @Doyle4 what happens if you open EScribe's Device Monitor, click the Diagnostics tab, and click "enable USB charging" then click "set USB current" and type in "1" (amp)? FYI 4.74v on the USB is kinda low for a resting USB voltage. when any of my DNA boards are not drawing current the USB resting voltage is usually 5v- 5.20v. have any other cables to try out? it is possible, when assembling your mod, you knocked of a resistor or cap related to charging or recognizing USB voltage presence. is it possible to get some high res pics of the board? front and back?
  11. .004 will do you just fine. you really don't need the tool. that mod is so popular, the average mod res for your mod is around .004
  12. Does your button resemble this style? On the DNA 60 (and all other DNA boards), Up and down buttons are "active low" signals (signal pulled down to GND). The fire button is "active high" (signal is pulled up to VCC MAIN (battery voltage)). So when you press the capacitive button the "out" pin needs go high (4.20v). You'll also need to add a .5 -1k ohm pull up resistor, inline, from the sig pin (of touch sensor) to the fire button input pin of the DNA 60 (you want to limit the amount of current going to the MCU).You'll need to configure the jumpers that are on the touch sensor, which ones i'm not sure, for active high output operation You'll have to do the research on that. I don't play around with Arduino stuff.
  13. @Anusit it appears your lipo is on it's way out or dead. You can try USB Recovery but i'm not sure if it works below 2 volts a cell. Either way, with a lipo that far over-drained it is best to replace it with new. ONE OPTION>>>>>
  14. Is the zif socket on the board damaged in any way? Maybe from when the original screen was ripped out? Look for bent or missing pins or a broken / poorly closing latch. Also make sure the screen ribbon is fully inserted into the connector before closing the latch. Maybe try reflashing the firmware as well, couldn’t hurt.
  15. Hi, @Pjr. Can you post a screenshot of Device Monitor, while firing the device? You're saying there is a noticeable delay from when you press the fire button to when the atty actually fires? As for the screen not updating output voltage, that may be a theme field issue rather than something wrong with the firmware. I will say the fields do not update terribly fast, though should update nonetheless.