Spirometry

How do you know your readings are .005 to .010 off?

"Last Temperature" is the average temp of the entire last puff.

0.020 ohm difference is pretty big for the same atty. Make sure you are letting the atty cool down before mating it to the mod.

Try this https://www.dropbox.com/s/odcq8g92s7y6lg6/EMR%2B%2015.246WH.csv?dl=0

Case analyzer is for calibrating the room temperature reading. If you mount a cold atomizer to a cold mod, it won't make a difference. If the mod is cold, then it won't have to guess what the room temperature is.

Your cold resistance is all over the place. Every time you post a graph it is different. Making a 1.0? coil is pretty uncommon. What gauge, wraps and diameter?

0.66 and nickel? I suspect something is loose and you're only reading the Kanthal.

That is the same type of switch as the Honeywell you posted earlier, 3 position DPDT. You still would have to add the jumper that I showed you to convert it into a SP3T. The Honeywell being rated for more amps. Basically these switches have 3 positions. Both contacts up, both contacts down, and in the center position one set of contacts go up and the other set go down.

V1.2 SP3 is the latest version.

I would think that if the board was well grounded then all you would of gotten was an atomizer shorted error. And if the board wasn't grounded, it would work just fine backwards. So i'm leaning towards that not being the cause.

Your 510 is wired backwards.

I cheated. Found an image on the internet, then edited it.

(On)-On-On means it is momentary in one position.

The added resistance for the switch would mainly affect temperature control. If the switch and wiring added 10 milliohms that is nothing for wattage mode but in TC mode it could be hard to compensate for because the resistance might change every time you flip the switch. That switch you pointed out won't work. For a toggle you will need a DPDT on-on-on You could also use a SP3T rotary switch, much like Phil B "lazy box".

You will also have a lot more resistance with the contacts in the switch. Also need a switch that can handle the 30-50 amps, depending on which board you choose.

The DNA200 can work in two different configurations. 200 watts max in a 3s configuration (11.1v)133 watts max in a 2s configuration (7.4v)

What is the resistance and material of your coils? Building too high will hit the voltage limit. Building too low will hit the amperage limit.

There are two parameters for the Big Question. "The resistances are so close together that this must be the same coil, so we won't ask and just assume that it is indeed the same coil. If we got it wrong, it won't make a big differance and refinement will fix our mistake." This parameter is user adjustable with the ohm lock range. "The resistances are so far apart there is no way this is the same coil. We will just assume this is a new coil." Basically it will take your original cold resistance and compare it to the new resistance and the TFR curve you are using. If the calculated new coil temperature is outside the vaping range, it will assume its a new coil. This parameter is not user adjustable. The cold resistance and the TFR curve are the parameters.

They only sold a few to beat the FDA deadline.

Check your resistance without the tank, you may be shorting out against the chimney.

In the US try Ebay seller ati_store, they have cases with display and buttons holes cut out. Modcrate has a quite of bit of stuff. Modsledz has the 3d printed sleds. Protovapor for Evolv boards and 510s

Alpinetech 1590G+ with a Maxamps 1850mA and a Mitec switch. An extremely tight fit, but I have seen it done before. (dual 25r)18650s 16-18 Wh 1850 (3s) 18-20 Wh

Continuously discharging a lipo to 2.8v could shorten the life of the pack. Considering that you said that you have never received a weak battery warning, yours didn't go that low. However there is no telling if you got it below 3v. The default CSV for lithium polymer has 0% @ 3.10v So if you stopped vaping at 0% and didn't continue past that, I doubt you did any harm. I would use device monitor to track the 3 cell voltages under load. if you see a bad imbalance, then toss the pack. I'm not sure why you saw the battery meter take a big drop. Possibly you have the wrong Wh setting.

Weak battery warning is based off of the voltage of the packs. Battery percentage and battery bar are based off of calculated estimates of the watt-hours. You didn't ruin the pack by going to 0% 18650s have more voltage drop than lipos. That is why you are seeing the weak battery message with those. It is important to set the proper Wh Capacity and Cell Soft Cutoff in Escribe for the particular configuration that you are using. Maximum recharges sets the charge voltage to 4.1 volts vs 4.2 volts for maximum puffs.

You can also lock the resistance after refinement and after you have everything dialed in right. I believe it will remember the locked resistance without power. I don't suggest locking resistance right after attaching a new coil, because the temperature readings won't be as accurate unless they were mated dead cold. You can also power the board with usb while changing batteries.