Spirometry

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=92135

If you need a wiring diagram... The soldering part will be way over your head.

Post #1 there is no temp reading because it is firing in power mode. If the mod doesn't see a rise in resistance it will switch to power mode. You have to remove the atty to force a new base resistance (uploading a new profile will also force a recheck) Post #2 Things definitely aren't working perfectly now. Your coil is not 280F because 280f is not hot enough to produce vapor. Your mod clearly has the wrong base resistance.

Your wire seems fine to me, although I prefer 28 gauge tempered if i'm messing with nickel. Do you have two 9 wrap coils or two 18 wrap coils? The DNA200 can only draw 23 amps (max) from the batteries. You are confusing the input current and the output current.

/topic/66518-topic/?do=findComment&comment=897999

Protovapor carries the Evolv 510

Mod resistance: 0.007? would be a save number to use no matter what atty you attach. I personally would use 80% of the 0.013? that you tested. So I would set mod resistance at 0.010?. Another thing to look for in atomizer analyzer is the room temperature. If the the room temp reading is nowhere close to the actual room temp, then your base cold ohms setting will be off. In this type of situation it is best to let refinement do its job. Just set the mod down for 20 minutes or so, disconnected from usb. After that time period go back and adjust your temperature if needed. I don't really worry about burning cotton. Under normal vaping conditions, you will loose vapor production and lack of flavor long before you burn the wick.

I vape a Velocity Ti dual coil 20/80vg at 490°f, 60 watts, 125w preheat. 290° is below the boiling point of your liquid. I also saw in one of your screen shots that you found my custom screen for the Velocity

In your video, there was no vapor because it was set at 280°f. 100% PG has a boiling point of 370° add some VG to that and you will have to adjust your temperature even higher. What you are doing with all the resets is locking in on the wrong cold resistance. You have to do it several times until you find one that compensates well with the extremely low temperature setting you have set. It is a lot easier to just put a cold atomizer on a cold mod then set your temperature to a setting that hot enough to boil your liquid.

I don't understand what is wonky in your video. Looks normal for Ti and no airflow. The only thing I don't understand is why you had it set at 280°f, i hope your not trying to vape at that temp.

The rdna40 is the only Vaporshark with Qi charging.

Just in case, here is the file. https://www.dropbox.com/s/4ff7pknxgz4kse2/Vaporshark%20Factory%20default.ecig?dl=0

If that doesn't work let me know and I will upload the default file.

I run my velocity at 490° @ 60watts .

Looks normal to me. Your raw ohms is the total resistance (wiring, mod and atomizer) The Kanthal ohms is your raw ohms minus your mod resistance. Looks like you haven't set a mod resistance. The Temp ohms is the raw ohms minus your mod resistance then adjusted to a reference temperature of 70°. Your vape temp is running around 325°, it is too low to be accurate. Make sure both atty and mod are cold before attaching them together. Your coil resistance is so low it would be to your advantage to enter a mod resistance value. You will have less margin of error if you can get your coil resistance up some.

Discontinued Try this link http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/woi0001p?&I=THPA1140&P=SM They also have an Ebay store and sometimes you can find it there. I don't have a VT200, so I can't confirm that it fits.

If you're going to get a thunderpower, try omnimodels.com

If it is completely power off, then how will it know that you pushed a button to turn it back on?

Temperature coefficient of nichrome is too low for temperature protection.

100%PG has a boiling point of 370.8°F and not too many people vape 100% PG Instead of raising your resistance, try raising your temperature setting. Your wattage settings are pretty low, are you doing mouth to lung?

Thanks, this is a big improvement. Especially when you have multiple devices. Also saw that you took my suggestion on adding version numbers in the early firmware thread.

If the resistance is changing it is impossible to have the exact same voltage, wattage and current. It is against ohms law. If you set it at 50 watts, the dna will output 50 watts. It doesn't matter that the resistance is rising the whole time.

Atty lock is for temperature protection. Furthermore it does not prevent your resistance from changing. The DNA200 can not change the physical properties of the wire. What atty lock does is turn off refinement, preventing the dna200 from changing the cold resistance value. In temp mode your display will show the cold resistance value. This is not actual resistance of the atty. It is a calculated value of what it thinks your resistance should be at 70°F. In wattage mode the display will show actual atty resistance(live ohms)while firing. The dna will continuously monitor the resistance and apply appropriate voltage during the vape. When not firing it will show the last resistance it saw while firing. What you may of discovered is a small bug in the firmware. because with temp protection turned off, there is no need to atty lock a cold resistance.

If it was powered off, then how would it know that you pressed the button 5 times to turn it back on? The only way to turn it off is with a mechanical switch. This also applies to your IPV3 Li, cell phone or even home computer.

sitting on device monitor (charging) my temp falls to about what my actual room temp is.