giz_60

The structure of coil won't make a difference...some prefer the 316L over the 316...but then others prefer to use the TCR values..its more about what works best for you...you can always fiddle with different settings & if not satisfied, revert back...thats the beauty of the DNA devices...the ability to fine tune it to ones preferences....

The stock .csv works good...the .csv files are created by wire type & not the coil build...single coil vs. clapton coil vs. alien coil, etc...as long as the wire material is the same, the .csv are going to be the same....Some prefer the Steam Engine .csv for 316L Elite over the stock 316L .csv...there is a very slight difference...

I too have a Therion & just checked the factory settings...and that is the factory default, but doesn't mean that is the true mod resistance of your device.. The Raw ohms in AA is the cold ohms plus the internal resistance added. The nominal ohms is the Raw ohms minus the value set in the mod resistance setting..if the mod resistance value is not correct, the cold ohms & nominal ohms will NEVER be equal...neither Escribe or the mod are going to set the cold ohms to the nominal ohms...in order for those to be equal, the mod resistance has to be correct... judging by the AA screen shot you posted previously, I am seeing a mod resistance higher than .004

Read this thread, starting at about post #72..../topic/65594-topic/ Giz Method Mod Calibration.docx

I see the the screenshots above...you are correct...the cold ohms should equal the nominal ohms, if the mod resistance value is correct...where did you get that value?, because if that screen shot is of AA after having let your rig set for 30 min., I am seeing a mod resistance higher than .004...

The mod is going to read the cold ohms as they are... the Atomizer Analyzer has no play in that...the mod is going to read what is sitting on top of it...Atomizer Analyzer is only going to show you what is being read at that time...raw ohms is the cold ohms plus the internal resistance of the device...the mod resistance set in the 'Mod' tab is to allow the mod to compensate for the internal resistance of the device...all devices are a little different...where did you get the value you have set for the mod resistance? Edit: if the mod resistance is not set correctly, it will throw things off...

Spaced coils work best... Edit: Especially with SS...

Sounds like the mod is, for some reason, dropping out ot TC mode into power mode..if those are contact coils, that could be an issue...can you post a few screenshots...Device Monitor while firing with the following checked...Power, Power Set, Temperature, Temperature Set, Cold Ohms, Live Ohms...also one of the 'Mod' tab...if those are contact coils, that could be an issue..

It is also available via Evolv's website...https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna200.pdf

It will ask if you want to accept them or not...accept them & Escribe will take care of it for ya...then upload to device...

The weird values you are seeing is the mod dropping out of TC mode to Power mode. The screens you are seeing are correct according to the way it is setup in the 'Screen' tab. In the first screenshot of Device Monitor, your cold ohms are showing .167 & in the second, .163...looks like you have a connection issue. The limitless is a genesis style atty which has 2 screws connecting the mod to the build deck. You need to make sure both of those are good & tight, screws holding the coils are tight...clean the 510 pin on the atty & 510 connector on the mod with iso alcohol...a stable resistance is necessary for TC...also, you have 0 value in the 'Mod Resistance' setting & the 'Case Thermal' values are the stock values...need to run 'Case Analyzer' to get the case thermal values...test for the internal mod resistance...all these are very important for proper TC operations, especially with SS...

Can you post a few screenshots from Escribe...Device Monitor while firing with the following checked...Power, Power Set, Temperature, Temperature Set, Cold Ohms, Live Ohms...screenshot of your 'Mod' tab & to answer the questions about the displays you are seeing, a screenshot of the 'Screen' tab... Edit: what kind of atty are you using & coil build...the more info, the better...

Yes, you can read this post about it, starting at about post #72..../topic/65594-topic/ For some reason, case analyzer didn't finish...I have found it best to walk away from the computer or leave it alone until the analyzer finishes because sometimes browsing, etc, will cause the USB connection to disconnect and of course, make sure batteries are at least 50% drained...test will take a few hours (I usually start the test, then go to bed)...your results should look something like this, but the values will be unique to your device... Giz Method Mod Calibration.docx

The difference between the cold ohms (coil) & raw ohms is..the cold ohms plus the internal resistance of the mod...perfectly normal... Have you set the mod resistance in the 'Mod' tab & run the case analyzer yet? Because, as CB stated, of the nature of SS wire, all the settings have to be set properly...a slight difference in ohms (1 - 2 milliohms) can make a big difference....judging by your cold & raw ohms, the Mod resistance is around .003 Looks like the reason you are not hitting your set temp is because you have your watts set at 40w, which is limiting the mod to 40w & it can't reach your set temp of 400F...try raising the 'Power' setting in that profile until it reaches temp...

Here is a screenshot from my Triade simulating the settings you used... .35 .50 and then reset the current limit (only pulling .6x amps from computer)...you will notice the difference from yours...nice smooth, gradual rise & fall of the graph compared to yours...quick sawing up & down...both on the USB voltage & amps...hope this helps you out...

Capacity...18.75

Most of the stock settings work fine...28 - 29 Wh's...but that will only affect the battery indicator...running battery analyzer will give you a more accurate set of values...

You can try this...in Device Monitor, click on 'Diagnostic>Reset USB Current Limit'...it will take 5-10 secs. before you see anything on the graph...

When removing the batteries, the board will lose the ohms/refinement settings that are in it, causing some strange behaviors..either let the device set for a bit for refinement to do its thing...OR...try plugging in a USB charge cable prior to changing the batteries...

They were requesting info on LG HG2's...nothing to do with your pinks...

PM sent with file attached...

Glad to hear the shop is taking care of you...