Wayneo
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Posts posted by Wayneo
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Hide (3 dots on the right) the duplicate posts, and tell me the current status.
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Just checked on my 250C with the latest firmware, you're right. I could have sworn it was there.
Go under 'Help' Backups, and load an early backup should fix it.
Or, You might want to try an earlier firmware or two to see if it's there, update your mod, then re-install the latest. OR you can open a Help Desk ticket and wait for a fix.
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Using escribe on your PC, For the MOD tab to appear - Options (menu bar) -> User Interface -> Manufacturer
Then choose 'Mechanical' -> 'Screen Type'
There are 3 choices. Change to a different one. Then 'upload settings to mod'. If that doesn't fix it, try the last option. -
How did you make out @RogerMechMan? Didya ask nicely 😆
Did you get escribe installed? Did you update your mod(s)?
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You would need to open up your mod and dismantle it in order to check. I don't know. You should still wipe it out (that 510 connector, the battery area, the batteries and battery connectors) with a cotton swab and Isopropyl alcohol.
Do the batteries get hot?
Failing all that you could open a Help Desk ticket and they will guide you. Link in my signature line.
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2 hours ago, Navi said:
It will if I don't just keep hitting the puff command. That first one does on this screenshot.
So were they all simulated puffs? The only full printscreen (your first) showed it was an exact 2 seconds so I know that was simulated.
2 hours ago, Navi said:Yeah its weird alright. Would figure the temp reading would start lower than it does. 2-3 secs in between puffs I understand won't come to room, but it doesn't drop much at all.
Not weird at all. All this time wasted, except for seeing the live ohms touch. Now all those makes sense. When you puff, it pulls air over the mesh, juice back in to the mesh, all keeping/requiring more watts.
2 hours ago, Wayneo said:If your main goal is to avoid the dreaded mesh dry hit, the 'Replay' option (using watts as the material type) should be a much easier option for you if you're willing to try it. Let me know and I can help with that.
And no comment on the above. Don't wanna try.
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Sorry @Navi I have been of no help. I don't have that RTA but how high that mesh sits doesn't look right to me. I imagine it was as shitty as before. Too many moving parts for me.
What I can say, is even if you do as suggested by @dwcraig1 I don't see anything changing for the quality of the puff.
Look at your jagged red (temp) line. Your certainly reaching the temp, hella quickly and suffering the spiral of death on the watts (jagged green) line. While I'm here, not a single one of your puffs (in this entire thread) does it show your(purple lines) 'live ohms' line starting at the 'cold ohms' line. Which at least one should.If your main goal is to avoid the dreaded mesh dry hit, the 'Replay' option (using watts as the material type) should be a much easier option for you if you're willing to try it. Let me know and I can help with that.
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When is this happening?
While charging? Just sitting there, doing nothing and you're looking at some screen on your mod?
Are the batteries getting hot?
Did you have any leaking atty?
Do you see any liquid in the battery area?
Anything else relevant just before this started?
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I only need DM screenshots after wicking and a bunch of puffs.
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Welcome Roger 👋,
as a long time Mac user I can safely say the Mac version is a simple install and relatively bug free. I'd suggest the latest INTL version. There's a link in my signature line.-
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No new suggestions from me. I'd like to see a couple puffs just like before, before you go changing your material profile a la dwcraig.
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1 hour ago, Navi said:
somewhat better results with the tabs only being inserted: that was the only time I got the 0.15 ohm rating of the coils from the vape (not even using escribe), and I did a pre-glow to make sure it was heating evenly. That set up worked perfectly
So that appears to be the correct depth for the mesh, and a similar routine to what I suggested. I still stand by my full way. And don't lock the ohms/resistance.
1 hour ago, Navi said:SUS316L shouldn’t be too much different than SS316L cause it’s just the Japanese grading of SS. I’m kinda appalled that Wotofo hasn’t responded to my 8 support requests on what the hell the TCR should be.
Wotofo probably has no clue. As @dwcraig said, all SS are alloys (a chemical composition) with ranges instead of hard and fast rules for what SS316 or 'L' is. The 'L' for example just denotes low carbon.
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23 hours ago, Navi said:
I have noticed that if I don't fully insert the mesh I get somewhat better results. Instead of fully inserting I only have the tabs inserted rather than putting the mesh all the way down
What do you mean by 'somewhat better results'?
Without even knowing your battery type in your initial post, especially with that vertical line, we being @dwcraig1 and I knew it was not an issue. That's so easy to spot we would have inquired. I don't know if Mooch ever tested those rewrapped cells for their Amp rating as they can be changed/swapped at any time. Even if they are only 15A batteries that is enough to support your shown watts as the load is shared between both batteries.
23 hours ago, Navi said:After doing some quick search and reading the battery issue is pretty much not a thing
Good to hear you validated my comment. Do you do that for every comment I make.
23 hours ago, Wayneo said:IMHO your batteries are not even in question at this point.
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1 hour ago, Navi said:
Is the reason for lowest, as you said battery sag, something with the batteries being low amps or something essentially? ... I have Hohm Life batteries and they say lowest resistance is 0.16 LMAO So looks like I need new batteries.
All batteries will sag when you're drawing current from them. That amount varies between both battery types and rating, how full they are, power requested, at rest voltage, etc. IMHO your batteries are not even in question at this point.
1 hour ago, Navi said:Is the low glow an absolute must?
IMHO, yes. Brief, low watts to see a dull and even glow a couple times till there's no machine or hand oils left on them. SS gets damaged from long high wattage burning bright like sun. Following my directions using your mod are better in this regard.
5 hours ago, Wayneo said:I have always vaped a tank or two in straight watts profile, (no boost) to get a feeling for what/how to setup my TC parameters. Can you do that and tell me what's a great watts for you?
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7 hours ago, skatingnobody said:
#3: I am actually running the "Vape boy 3000 polished theme (vertical)"... Does the theme matter if the settings are identical? or should I be running all of these tests on stock?
Themes can definitely fuck things up royally and on the sly. There are some real gems and some real shitty ones. Same thing for material profiles. And that is why I always talk/say 'stock evolv' and Device Monitor. In the future you might want to include a screenshot of the Profile used. Just ensure the 2 'Replay' checkboxes are not enabled.(I don't think they are enabled) AND I hope you did not lock your ohms on any of this
It would be in your best interest to run everything stock for now.
On 4/23/2023 at 12:40 PM, skatingnobody said:And as far as the atomizer stability goes, it seems rock solid. For both the KFX and KFL19.
BTW every TC controllable coil fluctuates with Atomizer Analyzer.
7 hours ago, skatingnobody said:I've been messing around with everything and I can tell you that despite stable ohms reading from the atomizer analyzer, some puffs will just undershoot the setting entirely, but other puffs the temp-protect kicks in as soon as I press the fire button, preventing me from vaping...
So for me that is like starting from scratch with everything. For the second time TEMP PROTECT AS SOON AS YOU PRESS THE FIRE BUTTON IS A SIGN OF RUNAWAY OHMS, MEANING FIX YOUR BUILD.
One last thing for future screenshots, please uncheck those 2 down in the Statistics area, I never asked for them and it muddies the display 🙂
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Great first post @Navi and those screenshots are always helpful/key. 👍
Just a few questions and comments.
I can tell you've been lurking by your inclusion of that extra vertical line on the first 2 puffs. Normally we like to see it near the beginning, lowest voltage point (like you did) for battery sag, and in the middle of an puff for abnormal working conditions.
Usually with mesh, ensuring both sides are evenly and fully inserted are vital. Following that, a low glowing (10-15 watts to burn oils off, and ensuring it's heating properly), then sitting for 10-15 minutes so everything cools to ambient temp. After all that it is time to remeasure the coil ohms before or after wicking. You should 99% of the time answer 'yes' if the mod asks if it's a new coil if prompted.You mentioned 'support' twice. Was that Evolv support?
6 hours ago, Navi said:Have tried hard setting ohms, changing internal resistance to get to the ~0.15 ohms (usually reads about 2.2-2.4 above at the stock internal res of 0.004, Have it right now reading 0.166 stable no fluctuation with atomizer analyzer at 0.006 internal res, but vapor production is relatively non-existent until we get up to the 480+ range
You should never hard set the ohms. That value is what the mod has read. I think you meant .22Ω and .24Ω
I have always vaped a tank or two in straight watts profile, (no boost) to get a feeling for what/how to setup my TC parameters. Can you do that and tell me what's a great watts for you?One last comment for the future. Can you drop/uncheck those last 2 boxes down in the Statistics area as it muddies the display.
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Thanks again for those screenshots. So I asked;
6 hours ago, Wayneo said:Can you go to just your straight Watts profile, re-measure the ohms, and vaping in straight watts, find the value that feels good to you. Then post another screenshot like before, using straight watts. No boost.
#1 is the KFX in watts - were you actually puffing? I see 2 puffs. In the first (in the first, left puff) do you see how the 'live ohms' crosses below the 'cold ohms' line. Off the bat that says the coil was still a bit warm. But based on the numbers shown, you were still around the ~250F range. I can see that maybe if you have a tight airflow or possibly super high nic so you're pulling gently.#2 and #3 I believe you did the TC puff #3 actually before the straight watts of #2 by the Total puff count of each.
So for #3 is the KFL19 in TC - now the temp is ~360F using the stock evolv material profile. 17 watts was not to get to the 'temp set' so midway you relaxed the puff as shown in that red line dropping, as well as the live ohms, and the 17 watt limit never dropped.
Puff #2 is KFL19 in Watts - Clearly shows ~360F using the stock evolv material profile.
After saying all that you're no closer really to 420F. Can you tell me why you're dead set at vaping at 420F? You must realize that's the limit, hence the 'protected' from going over your limit. Although you can vape at the limit, it was never Evolv's thought, as you get a ramp down in watts and a weaker puff once at the limit.
Looks like coil/atty issue to me, but you say it's all perfect on two attys.
There is also Replay, whereby you using your SS or unknown wire can reach a puff you like using watts and 'watts' material, then enable/set Replay. That offers dry hit protection, but no temperature shown. Much simpler to get as good if not better results than TC. Let me know if you at least want to try that and I can help you.
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OK. Thanks for that screenshot. Just perfect.
Something does not jive.
Are you sure you're using Stainless Steel? Still spaced, and did you do a dry (low glow)/burn to ensure it's heating up from the middle to outer edges?
TC should not be hard or difficult to setup and get working. instantly temp-protected is also a sign of runaway ohms from your coil. In escribe, in that profile, down at the bottom you'll see 'Atomizer Analyzer'. With a cold coil can you tell me how much it fluctuates over a minute. It should only be a few thousandths.That 1st puff showed that your cold ohms are actually lower than measured, but at less than 200°F you should not even get vapor, much less 'insanely hot', so I agree with you on that point.
Can you go to just your straight Watts profile, re-measure the ohms, and vaping in straight watts, find the value that feels good to you. Then post another screenshot like before, using straight watts. No boost.
Do you by any chance have another atty that you can use, to test in TC?
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Luckily for you, you don't need escribe to get it out of stealth mode. Here's the link for a downloadble pdf with all the non color key combos. Once you're out of stealth, you can check it all. Escribe not required.
https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/71559-cheat-sheet-key-combos-for-non-color-mods/
1 hour ago, Polar Girl said:I need it so I can try to unlock it and get it out of stealth mode. It probably won't work and will either need to be sent in for repair or discarded. I need Escribe to verify I succeeded in getting it out of both modes and still won't go back into watts mode no matter how many times I select it.
I can only think of 1 DNA250 that allowed 2/3 batteries, so yeah, you're stuck with what you've been using unless you have a friend or library nearby.
1 hour ago, Polar Girl said:It is a 2/3 battery mod that needs Escribe to switch from 2 to 3 battery mode or vice versa.
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There are very few things you need escribe for with these color chipsets/boards. There are some full featured themes that have just about all the options, mind you they are 20+ screens.
You really only need any special 'material' files like NiFeXX or other TC capable that are not already on your mod. And the latest software update. Some have friends that will allow them to use their PC/Mac, or even a library.
14 hours ago, Polar Girl said:That shouldn't deter creation of a sideloadable app that can be downloaded from this site.
As far as a sideloadable app, WE might allow a link but doubt we'd allow the app itself. We'd need to have Evolv's blessing.
Good luck in your quest. 👋
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Welcome 👋
I'll start by saying you should watch a video or two about DNA mods (longer DJLSB Vapes) so you get a better understanding overall of these mods and lingo.I'd prefer to see a Device Monitor screenshot, please.
Start Device Monitor. On the left, click these checkboxes only.
Power, power set, temperature, temperature set, cold ohms, live ohms.Take a puff or two, pause Device Monitor. Post screenshot of full screen (link in my signature line)
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5 hours ago, DamianB said:
Do i just need to remove that and solder in a 4 pin JST ? ... used 2 x 18650's I needed to bridge taps 2,3,4 and on the wiring diagram for the 3s it shows that 3 and 4 need bridging, But on the information about using a balancer plug, it does not mention at all about the need for bridging the pins ?
Is it a case that if you're using an actual Lipo rather that 18650's, that you do not need to bridge anything ?So by using the datasheet wiring diagram, yes you'd solder in a 5 pin JST XH connector AND do your jumper for the missing cell 4. Here's a good photo
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No. That has never been a feature of any DNA board.
3rd time moving your posts out of the Reflex area.
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Open a Help Desk ticket. Link in my signature line. ⬇
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How to resurrect DNA250C?
in General Discussion
Posted
Did you get that firmware installed?
Did the screen ever light up?