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This is a straight fit as far as I experienced, only thing to watch out for is the screen “display area” is just a bit narrower than the dna60, so you have to make sure it’s lined up properly not to look wonky here’s my retrofitted BB - been running it as a daily for month now

The only requirement here is a DNA board.

It works like this @Lennox. Even if you use a 100A charger, it still will only draw 2A. You can use less than a 2A charger too. It will only draw what it is capable of supplying if less than 2A. It will take longer to charge of course.

These are rough comparisons between the two boards screens and their physical sizes. Proper engineering diagrams would show exact dimensions, visible areas and bordering. NOTE: The "viewable" screen area on the DNA60C is the same size as the DNA60 and falls in the same location ⬇️ Black and white DNA60 ⬇️ ⬇️ Color DNA60C ⬇️

Hi @Dieseljesus and @EagleRock. OK I'll take a DNA80C to the work bench and do some testing. I'll report back in about 2 days.

EScribe Suite 2.0 SP66 For US-based customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP66_US_ServicePack.exe For international customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP66_INT_ServicePack.exe If you would like the Oxva-specific version, https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP66_OXVA.exe --- Oxva Pro 2 DNA --- Added support for this pod device. It has power control, Replay, customizable color schemes, support for 11 languages, and ECigStats support. --- Experimental Prelease Devices --- Test if you're interested. DNA 55 Color: This has customizations appropriate for pod devices, such as automatically distinguishing between different atomizers by resistance ranges -- see Mod->Atomizers. There's support for power control and Replay. Like a Color DNA, the user interface can be edited with Theme Designer. The Theme Designer support is a work in progress but does have some new features. DNA 80 Color Pod: This has customizations appropriate for pod devices, such as automatically distinguishing between different atomizers by resistance ranges -- see Mod->Atomizers. (You can switch between Color and Color Pod by applying firmware.) --- EScribe Suite --- Production Utility has been upgraded to support scripting and higher throughput operation. Bug fixes.

Here you go

yes something is wrong somewhere, ive just soldered the 510 when checking with a meter earth and 510 pin no fire button pressed im getting voltage of 3.2v then press the fire button and no change, Ok it looks like im gonna have to pull it all out and see whats happening, Hopefully i notice something this has totally baffelled me. Thankyou both @dwcraig1 @Wayneo for your time and patience i will start testing connection when i get a bit more time and hopefully have a good outcome

It looks to be wired correctly to an Evolv C board. Avoid using a USB hub.

Yes, I understand the problem, but in my opinion you should focus on the board temp primarily. Afterwards we'll look at resistance. Plug in the 75C mod (nothing attached to the mod) How much does the board temp rise just sitting there and not being used? Note down temp after 2 minutes and 20 minutes after being plugged in. Leave mod and escribe running. Attach Bakx. How much does the board temp rise just sitting there and not being used? Note down temp now and 20 minutes after being plugged in. Report back those 4 temps like below , and battery description. 75C Nothing attached 2 minutes (temp here) 20 minutes (temp here) 75C bak attached 2 minutes (temp here) 20 minutes (temp here)

I would say there may be some resistance in the path of the power from the cell to the board. I say that because you said that you tried higher current cells. You have to have the power availible.

That is the default Evolv theme. Connect to EScribe, go to themes, save your existing theme if desired and select default theme and upload to device.

Using this diagram, follow pins 11-15 *Take note of pin 15.

No, not normal. Reach out to your place of purchase, there should be a warranty of some sort. Failing that open an RMA at the Help Desk. Link in my signature.

I plug mine into the nearest outlet to me. You should take whatever safety precautions you believe necessary. I believe there are fire retardent charging bags sold but never heard of anyone using them, maybe you already use one for your current batteries.

If you had a meter I would be suggesting that you measure resistance between the battery negative and the threaded part for the flush nut and then the bottom of the mods postitive post where the wire it soldered on and the other side where the RBA contacts. It very well could even be a defective board but without checking these things it's hard to tell. Is that a Rekavape clone? They appear well made if it is, I have one of a different model.

20 gauge is minimum size and should be just fine.

I'm looking at your output contact on the mod for the RBA, it appears to be adjustable. Have you tried adjusting it so that it is higher?

Do you have a multimeter?

So using a DNA60 mod I did the deal with the metal rod between the flush nut threaded part and the mod's output post and pushed the fire button and got a reading (very low reading) on the mods screen. The board has short circuit protection by the way.

Here is the pinout for the DNA60, it is the same for the DNA60C. There is the possibility that the positive on the mod isn't high enough to make contact with the positive on the RBA. Start there. Next make sure that the threaded part for the flush nut is connected to battery ground. #8 and #10 are the same internally so they can be interchanged for ease of wiring. A quick check would be to connect to EScribe and use Atomizer Analyzer. When connected to Atomizer Analyzer you should get "?". Slide a metal rod between the threaded part of the flush nut threaded piece and the boro output post, you should get a reading if wiring is correct for output. Let us know what you find. Well you can skip the part about using EScribe as there is no USB port.

2 things. I didn't include the link because it didn't have 'Replay', the comments about the snow in the wallpaper and the other link posted seemed more complete. I only searched 2 words, with 2 extra options after clicking that magnifying glass. 'Files' and 'all words'. Glad you're set.

Download new theme Start escribe with mod plugged in. Go to theme -> Load theme (Select theme you just downloaded) choose 'Open' (on a Mac) Then 'Upload Settings to Device' <- Most important thing 😉 A theme also includes the following screen behavior fields Active time, Idle Time, Fade-In, and Fade-out time. <- If you don't like any of the 4, change it yourself. Under the Language Tab are short forms for messages. If you don't like them, change them BUT if you want to report an issue you need to use the long form, or the default Evolv short-forms. After you've done it a few times, there is a quicker way by just starting escribe, then 'Theme Designer' immediately.

Please try to remember to update this post with the information from Hussar so other purchasers will know.

@intel, what does it show for USB Voltage when you plug it in? Would you mind taking a photo of the information on the charger? I just bought a new Samsung phone this week actually, and it didn't come with a charger. (It uses USB-C, so they evidently expect me to buy my own.) If I know specifics I'll buy one and fix it if possible. @EagleRock, a 1V drop is quite large. *If* the battery itself can handle the current, it's worth looking at how the battery is contacting. A full battery will be at 4.2V. If at your desired power level you hit 3.2V under load, that's a 1V drop much of which is likely resistive due to the battery contact. But that also means you'll hit Weak Battery (3V) when the battery is at 4.0V or so, when the battery actually has about 80% of its capacity left. If the battery itself can't handle the current that's a different problem, but if it can, that's very likely where your problem lies. (The oscillation screenshot strongly suggests a dicey connection. The charger oscillates like that if a battery isn't even connected. It could very well be that it's barely contacting, and it warms up and makes slightly better but still bad contact.)

The boards are the same foot print so they will interchange in that respect. But they are a completely different boards with Replay. The screen is not the exact same size but close. The only US seller I see is Protovapor and it includes the charger board. https://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-dna-60c-color-retail-box/

In just under 9 years of using DNA mods with built in batteries I have never needed to tweak/crimp my USB outer casing. The mere thought of using an external charger, removing the power and JST connector just doesn't seem practical to me. The odd time I had a loose connection, it was at the cable end.

You might consider completely removing that plate to see that there is no anodiztion interfering with it's connection to the chassis.

How many ml's of liquid is that 150 puffs?

SAN DNA80C AIO #108 Firmware SP78 BATT#1 RPY 20w 768 puffs 3.46v 3ml BATT#2 PWR 18w 949 puffs 3.39v 3ml SAN DNA80C AIO #108 Firmware SP78 BATT#1 PWR 35w 548 puffs 3.45v 4ml BATT#2 PWR 40w 578 puffs 3.39v 4ml I used Samsung 25R cells for all of my tests. I also tried to get that coil higher in wattage, but at 45 watts it was dry hitting too much. Vandy Vape VVC-15 (SS316L) are rated for 35-60w. Hopefully I'll get a chance this weekend to do a build that will be able to handle 60 watts. Anyways I am not seeing any short battery life using a San DNA80C. It looks respectable to me. The battery level bar does drop too fast and it seems to show empty when you have about 40% capacity left. That might be by design, I dunno. And when the battery is really empty and the weak battery shows up on the screen, It keeps firing if you want. But you can tell the wattage is dropping.

One thing that I would be looking if I did indeed have one would be that top plate on the mod. That plate grounds the battery to the chassis, check to see if screws are tight. Most likely the 3 screws that hold the board into the chassis provide the ground for the board, check to see if those are tight. Remove cell before trying to tighten that bottom screw. Do this only if you are comfortable doing so. It doesn't appear as easy to get to the boards screws like on mine.

Another while im vaping.

Here is my setting file and a screenshot of the Device monitor while vaping at 30W with the hover mark. if you need any other info please let me know SETTING dna80c.ecig

Gents, I do believe @James was hoping for a 'Device Monitor' from all 3 of you. Ideally it should look like below. The only addition I'll make is if you hover in the middle of a puff it will show details such as battery voltage at that time (see my mouse arrow). @Dieseljesus thanks for finally compairing to your blaze, and could you swap boro and battery again. Edit: And if you go to settings on your mod and click(fire button) at the top, it will show current puffs and firmware (also requested for all 3 of you).

Ill count how many buffs do i get with mine with a fresh battery but im thinking it is less than 50.

Hi Bill, no boost here. Asking about your results. Do you mean you got 768 puffs from 3ml of liquid?? I have had the San for 3 weeks and buff count only shows 1653 and i must have used over 50ml.

I'm usually running 0.20 and 0.15 on 55-75w on both the San, blaze and Stubby. No boost.

The batteries are all brand new bought same time as the mod 2 weeks ago, im using the Nitecore ums2 charger. I think this might be an indication that the chip need so much voltage to run, something is not right.

So far everything looks really good. 👍 See how during your puff, they're pretty much all equal in the amount they drop. While you are using the latest firmware, the US version limits new features for you. The 'INTL' has no limitations.

Dude, can you post a Device Monitor screenshot. Don't take a puff or do anything. I'm looking at your 4 cells, and if they're relatively all the same voltage (batteries have zero clue about any %). After it's done charging, same thing except screenshot while taking a puff, and I wanna see the puff. Here I'm looking if one cell is noticeably weaker than the others.

You will always get better results using proper/consistent Replay usage using a TC capable material (wire, such as SS) in an RBA. I have used chunky N80 (non TC) clapton coils in Replay successfully. I have used those Vaporesso coils also. At a minimum you need a solid positive and negative connection. It could be down to even the flushnut you're using, or the boro(tank) itself not allowing a great connection.

Can you post a link for that battery, please.

When charging stops at 27% what is the USB voltage reading? You USB power looks really low, do you get the same reading for USB power when plugged into another USB port? Have you tried a USB charger block (wall charger)? Have you tried other cables?

Having a 5 pin JST makes me think that it is a 4 cell LiPo. Do you have a volt meter? Your Device Monitor shows 14+ volts so it's a 4 cell. I missed that earlier.

Did you bridge balance tap connections 3 & 4 as shown here? https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna250color.pdf