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This is a straight fit as far as I experienced, only thing to watch out for is the screen “display area” is just a bit narrower than the dna60, so you have to make sure it’s lined up properly not to look wonky here’s my retrofitted BB - been running it as a daily for month now

The only requirement here is a DNA board.

I've ported Linux EScribe SP68 from GTK 2 to GTK 3. Some newer systems didn't have gtk-sharp2 easily available, so this should make those systems usable. *This is still a test version*, but if you'd like to try it, let me know what bugs you run into! https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP68_INT_GTK_Test1.run The bugs I've found so far are: (1) Multiline labels such as in Atomizer Analyzer don't lay out correctly. (2) Text fields with escape codes (such as Format and Label on Small Screen Pod devices) don't save properly. (3) Occasionally, dialog boxes are misaligned relative to the window that is showing them. Enjoy God bless. James

It works like this @Lennox. Even if you use a 100A charger, it still will only draw 2A. You can use less than a 2A charger too. It will only draw what it is capable of supplying if less than 2A. It will take longer to charge of course.

EScribe Suite 2.0 SP66 For US-based customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP66_US_ServicePack.exe For international customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP66_INT_ServicePack.exe If you would like the Oxva-specific version, https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP66_OXVA.exe --- Oxva Pro 2 DNA --- Added support for this pod device. It has power control, Replay, customizable color schemes, support for 11 languages, and ECigStats support. --- Experimental Prelease Devices --- Test if you're interested. DNA 55 Color: This has customizations appropriate for pod devices, such as automatically distinguishing between different atomizers by resistance ranges -- see Mod->Atomizers. There's support for power control and Replay. Like a Color DNA, the user interface can be edited with Theme Designer. The Theme Designer support is a work in progress but does have some new features. DNA 80 Color Pod: This has customizations appropriate for pod devices, such as automatically distinguishing between different atomizers by resistance ranges -- see Mod->Atomizers. (You can switch between Color and Color Pod by applying firmware.) --- EScribe Suite --- Production Utility has been upgraded to support scripting and higher throughput operation. Bug fixes.

Here you go

yes something is wrong somewhere, ive just soldered the 510 when checking with a meter earth and 510 pin no fire button pressed im getting voltage of 3.2v then press the fire button and no change, Ok it looks like im gonna have to pull it all out and see whats happening, Hopefully i notice something this has totally baffelled me. Thankyou both @dwcraig1 @Wayneo for your time and patience i will start testing connection when i get a bit more time and hopefully have a good outcome

It looks to be wired correctly to an Evolv C board. Avoid using a USB hub.

Yes, I understand the problem, but in my opinion you should focus on the board temp primarily. Afterwards we'll look at resistance. Plug in the 75C mod (nothing attached to the mod) How much does the board temp rise just sitting there and not being used? Note down temp after 2 minutes and 20 minutes after being plugged in. Leave mod and escribe running. Attach Bakx. How much does the board temp rise just sitting there and not being used? Note down temp now and 20 minutes after being plugged in. Report back those 4 temps like below , and battery description. 75C Nothing attached 2 minutes (temp here) 20 minutes (temp here) 75C bak attached 2 minutes (temp here) 20 minutes (temp here)

I would say there may be some resistance in the path of the power from the cell to the board. I say that because you said that you tried higher current cells. You have to have the power availible.

That is the default Evolv theme. Connect to EScribe, go to themes, save your existing theme if desired and select default theme and upload to device.

Using this diagram, follow pins 11-15 *Take note of pin 15.

No, not normal. Reach out to your place of purchase, there should be a warranty of some sort. Failing that open an RMA at the Help Desk. Link in my signature.

I plug mine into the nearest outlet to me. You should take whatever safety precautions you believe necessary. I believe there are fire retardent charging bags sold but never heard of anyone using them, maybe you already use one for your current batteries.

If you had a meter I would be suggesting that you measure resistance between the battery negative and the threaded part for the flush nut and then the bottom of the mods postitive post where the wire it soldered on and the other side where the RBA contacts. It very well could even be a defective board but without checking these things it's hard to tell. Is that a Rekavape clone? They appear well made if it is, I have one of a different model.

20 gauge is minimum size and should be just fine.

I'm looking at your output contact on the mod for the RBA, it appears to be adjustable. Have you tried adjusting it so that it is higher?

Do you have a multimeter?

So using a DNA60 mod I did the deal with the metal rod between the flush nut threaded part and the mod's output post and pushed the fire button and got a reading (very low reading) on the mods screen. The board has short circuit protection by the way.

Here is the pinout for the DNA60, it is the same for the DNA60C. There is the possibility that the positive on the mod isn't high enough to make contact with the positive on the RBA. Start there. Next make sure that the threaded part for the flush nut is connected to battery ground. #8 and #10 are the same internally so they can be interchanged for ease of wiring. A quick check would be to connect to EScribe and use Atomizer Analyzer. When connected to Atomizer Analyzer you should get "?". Slide a metal rod between the threaded part of the flush nut threaded piece and the boro output post, you should get a reading if wiring is correct for output. Let us know what you find. Well you can skip the part about using EScribe as there is no USB port.

Hello Evolv and the Community, I have a brandnew Boro mod, not 1 puff and got the No A= No Atomizer message showing if i press Fire, No Ohm Recognizing if Rba is included. Could you pleace check the pictures, and tell me if the Wiring is correctly made? Buttons, Fire, Up, Down works

So I've spent A-LOTTT of time on this i was actually the person who discovered the work around with some help from seedmass. To basically do it right for acurate tc control you need a thermalcouple probe. Put the prjbe in the cup and use wattage mode to measure the resistance of your cup every 100 degrees (100, 200, 300, etc.) All the way up to 500. Then you need to make a custom material profile and plot those resistance points on the material graph. You also need to make a fake resistance point somewhere close to 200f that is close to your cold resistance to fool the tsm check. After that all other accurate points will take over. That's the first and best option. You can also make a tcr profile and plot a fake resistance point (a resistance that is close to your cold resistance) somewhere around 200f. But you will need to still do the cotton test and try a couple different TCRs cause the tcr will change from your artic fox devices. If you go on the divine tribe discord server there are tcr profiles in the dna section with this workaround. But like I said u have to try a couple with the cotton test cause it'll be a different tcr then u are used to. The workaround is just making a fake resistance point close to 200 that is close to your cold resistance so the tsm check thinks that it has reached 200 degrees.

That Bogan theme is drop dead ugly on those Stubby DNA60C. That is the first thing I changed on my four of them.

Conclusion- i grabbed a Multimeter and did what @dwcraig1 said, the multimeter gets no reading too. Messaged me Privately and confirmed the Chip is broken, we are affraid, it happened while the Fire Button and the other 2 Buttons getting soldered out. I thank you @dwcraig1 for your great time, for the great support with tips and tricks. It made fun to find out. Thank you Evolv too. Your DNA chips are still the best ❤️

Correct, NOT a DNA. Their display and font is a dead giveaway. Especially that backward slash through the zero. 😉 If you're just a plain watts user it'll be a fine mod.

Can you post a photo of the main screen. Lost Vape makes non DNA versions of many of their mods (while keeping the same name). That main screen will be different.

There is no button combo for Stealth on the 60C. Stealth option is available with certain themes.

I’d just like to let everyone know how helpful you’re advice has been and how thankful I am, you have made things a lot easier to understand I had a defmod but the battery was a solid connection and I wasn’t aware of the differences between lipo and 18650 and how they need to be charged and how they discharge and unfortunately that mod is stuck at 3 percent and won’t accept any charge, I’m thinking of possibly putting my own balance cable and power cable into it maybe in a few months after some more research hopefully that is a possibility because it would cost me too much to send back to the original country for them to repair and pay for postage back to me, just another thank you to all who offered their advice

Well, it has a connection issue to the batteries. I already disassembled it, but didnt find the issue. Also the USB port is worn out and charging is a hit and miss 😞 Yes, it was a nice mod and I used it for, idk 3 years at least, daily. Good to hear Evolv is still running. Then I will have a look around for options. I found out there is also a new version of the Theorem. I dont need the watt I just prefer the runtime of dual 18650s

With the new post about the Geekvape Z100 I decided to have another go at the problem. Set to 100 watts I did about 10 three second puffs using EScribe. All was fine till the board reached toward 150F - 165F, then it throttled down.

I don't know why the problem is happening. But I know the SOLUTION!!! I had this issue with my DNA Z100C and it's definitely an over heating issue. But I switch to the higher resistance (ohms) coils. I have been using the P0.4/50-60watt/0.4 ohm coils instead of the 0.15 ohm coils and the problem completely goes away. If I had to guess, I think the added resistance in the coils wire absorbs the heat better and keeps the heat inside the coil, instead of the battery/board. Hope this works for you guys like it did for me.

Hello Sir, i tightened the nuts more as it was, Positive side (buttom side) and the negative side (upper side), after that i tryed again, and still the same. See the Pictures pleace, to the EScribe, i have no Usb Connection in the mod, even not the USB plate for the Dna60c. I have put a Rod like you said between the connections in the tank section in the safe way, no Ohm recognized at the Display of the mod.

Thank you! That's great news! I have very little space in the mod. Only a small board will fit. The ability to charge is not important, but the ability to connect to EScribe is essential!)

Yes, and the new Evolv data/charger board is 2A

It appears that Windows 11 can be made to run from a USB flash drive. It also appears that apps can be added to the Win 11 image prior to creating the bootable flash drive.

I removed the cell from my mod with a DNA100C and it will not connect to EScribe without it. Did you have yours powered with a battery? So yes it must be powered with a battery.

2 things. I didn't include the link because it didn't have 'Replay', the comments about the snow in the wallpaper and the other link posted seemed more complete. I only searched 2 words, with 2 extra options after clicking that magnifying glass. 'Files' and 'all words'. Glad you're set.

I would certainly agree with support as they have access internally with the designers and developers. My main concern was with your puff screenshot. You're asking a whole lot from that single battery board with a boost buck converter. As you can see, your power (green squiggly line) plunges after hitting that 100 watt peak, never really leveling out. So it ends up being a weak puff after that initial burst of power. Is your main reason/benefit for using TC to stop you from going over 450°F or for 'dry hit' prevention. Your current preheat parameters does nothing. If it's for specific, I can make suggestions for a better puff. If it's for dry hit prevention I can help you with trying 'Replay'.