Leaderboard

So depending on how much wire was left on the board and room in the enclosure, you can either solder to the board again or use a connector to match the battery connections. XT30 is a 30Amp connector and the XT60 is 60Amps, but there are many.

My 2010 Darwin still works and got me off cigarettes. Here is a 13 year old video and pictures of my 15 year old Darwin that still works as good today as when new.

There are a couple things that I would try if it were mine. 1st I'd copy the .ecig file using EScribe. Using Escribe do a hard reboot. Still not good restore to factory defaults. Use Evolv's default theme. EScribe creates a backup so either with that or your saved ecig file you can always return it ti as before your changes were made.

I'd suggest you use Replay with 'watts' set as the material type for best results. You could download the SS904 material file (I believe) from steam-engine, but even then your coil probably has Nickel legs which throws off the proper values of the material file.

Best when used in wattage mode but can also be used in TC. You need to use TC wire though for Replay to work properly.

It will be listed as DNA60C and not Mission Droid. Try some of the backups, you can easily go back to what you currently have.

If you have previously connected it to your computer EScribe has created a backup. Start EScribe , go to Tools/ Backup. Search by mod/board and date, apply, update to mod. As far as firmware. you should use the latest.

@Wayneo, ok thanks. The black and red wires were soldered directly on the board either side of the connector.

Not really. Let's say 2 cells are at 4.1V (fully charged) and the 3rd (unbalanced) cell only reaches 3.5V. So a .6V difference. When that weak cell reaches 3V you'll get a weak battery or check battery warning. Effectively won't fire, while in escribe cells 1 and 2 would still show ~3.6V. I would say yes. You're showing me a four position JST-XH connector. I dont how the outer red and black were connected.

Really, all 4 cells showed 0 Volts in Device Monitor? As 1 or more cells become unbalanced the battery % reflects that and the mod will work less once that weak cell hits the board hard cutoff.

That's in 'Theme Designer'. If you go to a field, on the RHS near the bottom you'll see the update while firing box to enable.

Why use closed source software and restrict the user from doing what they want with their own device? Don't say safety because that's already built into the firmware and anyone working on the it, if it were open source, would be liable to ensure that they leave that alone. Simply the escribe software should be way more free. if you paid for something which is advertised as programmable; So yeah, Infact the box is lying. This is shoddy at best and disappointing for evolv themselves to handicap their product and keep it fixed in functionality. You also can't flash your own custom firmware you build yourself or by using something like redpanda because there is built in encryption stored on the chip itself not giving the user a deviation point. Sad and horrible tbh that the best hardware manufacturer in the world would short themselves like that for consumerism when these devices are for high end users even if this is the lowest one. I wanted to climb the ladder and purchase an lve therion 2 250c because I thought I could, but after looking at that software packet, I couldn't even do what I wanted on this device, on there. Straight up nonsense @Wayneo I feel deceived and I bet the mods will delete my content for making others aware to stay clear if they plan to purchase this device with any form of flexible programming requirements in mind.

Yeahp. Go ask/tell Evolv. Help Desk Link in my signature line . ⬇️

@Vapors Tongue: The time on the lock screen.... The DNA 60 Color doesn't have a real-time clock, so any clock would definitely have been an estimate from the CPU. I hadn't remembered supporting that, but maybe I did. How accurate did you find the clock to be? What Service Pack did it last work in? Thanks!

Looks like both theme and autolock are working correctly now . 👍

I've found the bug that causes conditions to be incorrect on that DNA 60 Color test firmware. I've attached a new test version. Give it a try, and see how it works for you! Thanks! God bless. James 1_1_SP137_INT.sw-service

@stephanedegee hello did you try to upload experimental software James posted above ? That solved for me the autolock bug For the missing profile , check in escribe "Hide this profile" box in unchecked Regards

Read what you quoted a couple times to yourself. And you forgot to answer this Well? What other mods/pods have you used before this, and do any have adjustable wattage? It is common knowledge to start low and increase to where YOU get the best flavor. My very first puff was at that value and it burned my mouth not the coil. So I set it to 11 and worked up to what I liked which was 15. And 14 on the 0.8. I know it was OXVA that set those wattages for each of the different pods, and the .6 for sure matches with their Kanthal version. So you put in an empty pod at your regular watts, the mod lets you vape, and you don't complain of that nasty cotton taste? So after 1 puff you're throwing them out? That's usually what a person does when a coil burns. If you LOWER your watts and put more juice in any of those pods, do they taste burned?

Watts can play a massive role, but the majority of complaints are the exact opposite of yours, with numerous 'fill pod' warnings. You're vaping at the edge. If you read the notes as I suggested, you could use ecigstats, and download a couple of your burnt puffs. The maximum any 0.6Ω coil can reach is 0.558Ω. Yours 0.4158Ω The maximum any 0.8Ω coil can reach is 0.687Ω. Yours 0.6259Ω That's perfectly acceptable, what does not seem right? You hit .62Ω that's so close to the max, ~560F. That won't trigger any warning. For the second time, turn down the watts and try that.

This version of the Oxva DNA theme was created solely for a simpler, more contemporary look. Please feel free to download it if you like it. tema cold.ecigcolors

Přispívám svou trochou do mlýna a přidávám český překlad programu. Je v něm přeloženo vše, co je momentálně možné přeložit. Pokud najdete nějaké nesrovnalosti v překladu, neváhejte mne kontaktovat s požadavkem na nápravu chyby. Všechny možnosti programu nevyužívám, takže nemám na 100% vše ověřeno. Takže užívejte. cz.po

A user here created a series of videos that I agree with. A series of 4 back in 2017 that are still valid today. Here's the one for thermal calibration. https://youtu.be/BlVWc49qbPY That older board had 1 less case value than a color board but it's still valid. Escribe also shows definitions for each value if you hover over the words. Thermal calibration should have been done by the manufacturer, and it was, by some, years ago. Luckily we have access to the same tools.You can do the calibration more than once if you wish to verify the results. Mods are made with so many different enclosures (Stainless Steel, wood, zinc, 3D printing) all with different thermal characteristics. So a pdf would not be useful, but you can see their defaults and compare if yours are vastly different. Which mod/board do you have? You really should not discount Replay so quickly. It gives you 'dry hit' protection without all the hassles. I'm sitting here with 4 mods. All calibrated. 2 older non color mods using TC, 2 color mods using Replay.

Which brings me back to my favorite question - which theme is used? Stock theme or custom theme? If custom theme, which one? Some very popular custom themes have serious bugs in the replay / TC implementation.

If possible return it to where you purchased it or to Vaperz Cloud

Weirdly, I found that opening the rubber cover, closing it and then drawing on the pod a few times before inserting it again, made this go away. The problem is I have to keep doing it once in a while. I guess that would mean it has to do with the air pressure inside the pod?

I would open a Help Desk ticket and they will guide you (link in my signature line) ⬇️