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This is a straight fit as far as I experienced, only thing to watch out for is the screen “display area” is just a bit narrower than the dna60, so you have to make sure it’s lined up properly not to look wonky here’s my retrofitted BB - been running it as a daily for month now

EScribe Suite 2.0 SP69 For US-based customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP69_US_ServicePack.exe For US-based customers (Mac): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP69_US.pkg For international customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP69_INT_ServicePack.exe For international customers (Mac): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP69_INT.pkg If you would like the Oxva-specific version, https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP69_OXVA.exe For customers using Linux, see the beta thread. --- Oxva Pro 2 DNA --- This version may reduce the frequency of Fill Pod errors when using Replay, when Replay is set on the first puff after connection. This version also adds puff trace recording to Oxva. You can view puff traces on ECigStats. It records Power, Live Ohms, and Battery Voltage. (We're hoping to use this recording to see how effective the Fill Pod change is. That said, it's also a nice feature -- you don't have to be connected to USB any more to get a recording of your puffs!) Definitely let us know how it works for you! Enjoy --- EScribe Suite --- Bug fixes.

EScribe Suite 2.0 SP71.1 For US-based customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP71_1_US_ServicePack.exe For US-based customers (Mac): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP71_1_US.pkg For international customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP71_1_INT_ServicePack.exe For international customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP71_1_INT.pkg If you would like the Oxva-specific version, https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP71_1_OXVA.exe For customers using Linux, see the beta thread. --- Oxva Pro 2 DNA --- Added an option in the Safety tab to adjust Fill Pod detection. --- Theme Designer --- Added an "Import Animation Frames" menu option for Meter and Picture controls on devices which support animations. (This saves you the trouble of creating a WebP file.) Fixed a bug introduced in Service Pack 69 which caused some themes (specifically, those with conditioned Labels with padding) to refuse to upload. Fixed a bug which caused some themes (specifically, those using known() and unknown()) to crash on older devices. --- EScribe Suite --- Fixed a crash when downloading settings on DNA Go and Reflex. Fixed a Linux (GTK 3) stability-related bug. Miscellaneous bug fixes and improvements.

I've ported Linux EScribe SP68 from GTK 2 to GTK 3. Some newer systems didn't have gtk-sharp2 easily available, so this should make those systems usable. *This is still a test version*, but if you'd like to try it, let me know what bugs you run into! https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP68_INT_GTK_Test1.run The bugs I've found so far are: (1) Multiline labels such as in Atomizer Analyzer don't lay out correctly. (2) Text fields with escape codes (such as Format and Label on Small Screen Pod devices) don't save properly. (3) Occasionally, dialog boxes are misaligned relative to the window that is showing them. Enjoy God bless. James

This version of the Oxva DNA theme was created solely for a simpler, more contemporary look. Please feel free to download it if you like it. tema cold.ecigcolors

Oh how I was wrong LoL. The Evolv DNA 60C is awesome and Evolv, with a keen eye on safety, performance and reliability, has allowed for ALL vaping persuasions. Sometimes devices don't arrive perfectly configured from a manufacturer or vendor, but that isn't Evolv's fault. The possibilities are there for the choosing in EScribe. With invaluable help here, I've gone through the bonding phase and have my device dialed in perfectly. I apologize for my earlier naive, newbie observation. D'OH

Under the escribe 'safety' tab are options to lower or even turn off 'fill pod' warnings. There are ranges of resistance for what the coil Ω's displays as. Yours is now in the 1.2Ω range by 2 hundredths of an ohm. Your 'wrong ohms' issue is harder to explain but could be due to your coil raising its resistance due to getting crusty/carmelized from use and/or dirty contacts. Those factors or others, have raised the resistance to be in the 1.2Ω coil range My simple explanation - https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/76108-oxva-xlim-pro-2-dna-resistance-issues/#findComment-945868 More detailed explanation (same post) - https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/76108-oxva-xlim-pro-2-dna-resistance-issues/#findComment-945933

There are a couple things that I would try if it were mine. 1st I'd copy the .ecig file using EScribe. Using Escribe do a hard reboot. Still not good restore to factory defaults. Use Evolv's default theme. EScribe creates a backup so either with that or your saved ecig file you can always return it ti as before your changes were made.

So depending on how much wire was left on the board and room in the enclosure, you can either solder to the board again or use a connector to match the battery connections. XT30 is a 30Amp connector and the XT60 is 60Amps, but there are many.

My 2010 Darwin still works and got me off cigarettes. Here is a 13 year old video and pictures of my 15 year old Darwin that still works as good today as when new.

I am going to post here software and firmware Service Packs before they go on EScribe Suite's auto-updater, for those interested in trying things early, and so if yall find a bug we don't release it to the auto-updater. We appreciate your help testing these. RECOMMENDED SERVICE PACK EScribe Suite 2.0 SP68 EARLY SERVICE PACK EScribe Suite 2.0 SP71.1

@Magigamix, I'm glad it's working for you! Turns out the bug wasn't Linux-specific, and was a rather serious bug! Thanks for reporting it! @Alessandro D.... Wow, investigating on Debian 13, the installer script is looking for the package libgtk-3-0, which they have renamed libgtk-3-0t64. Also, they've removed the locate program from the default install, which was my fallback in case the package lookup didn't work. I'm not nearly smart enough to understand the wisdom of Debian, but, I'll change the script to look for libgtk-3-bin. That at least does not appear to have changed. Thanks for reporting this. It will be fixed in the next version. For what it's worth it would have also offered to install mono-complete if you hadn't installed it as well. ECigStats still seems to be broken. I'll need to investigate that.

Just popping in and out again, and apologies if you already realized this. Boost works at the start of a puff. Warmth is only activated if Replay is enabled. You really won't notice warmth unless you only activated Replay near the end of a session and allowed the coil to cool down.

Here's a question. If you pull up your puffs in ECigStats, is it saying "dry coil"? What do you get as your Cold Ohms and Live Ohms near the end of your puff? I'm wondering if Live Ohms is 18% above Cold Ohms (dry coil) or 24% above Cold Ohms (wet coil)? It determines wet coil by how much energy can go into it in a quick amount of time. If a juice is particularly bad at wicking, that could be the cause. I think John tested with 50/50 VG/PG, but I'm not sure. I will ask him next time I talk with him. If a juice has a ton of flavoring, enough to meaningfully affect the thermodynamics, I wonder if that could cause it. Let me know about the Cold Ohms and Live Ohms. We have a ton of settings on these devices, so none of this is hopeless or set in stone. Equivalent Ohms is something of a practical compromise. People tend to associate the vape they get with a Kanthal coil of a particular resistance. But what they are really asking for is not an electrical resistance, but the thermodynamic properties associated with that electrical resistance. The resistance of a Stainless coil, for the *same surface area and other thermodynamic properties*, is different from a Kanthal coil. Thermodynamics doesn't care at all about electrical properties. So, if manufactured correctly, a Stainless coil of "Equivalent Ohms" is meant to match the *thermodynamic properties* of a Kanthal coil of a particular resistance. Now, one could do it another way, but otherwise "I want a vape similar to my 0.6 Ohm Kanthal coil, but with temperature protections" becomes a rather confusing question to answer. Hope this helps. God bless. James P.S. There are other practical compromises. See the "True RMS Power Mode" checkbox? That's a fun one. If you want your watts setting to match your expectation on every PWM pod device we saw, keep it unchecked. This is "PWM Power Mode". If you want your watts setting to match thermodynamics (and non-PWM devices), check that checkbox! This is "True RMS Power Mode". (Actually, we did do better than other PWM pod devices when in "PWM Power Mode". See "Simulated Battery Voltage"? We make the true thermodynamic watts setpoint stable with battery voltage and battery voltage drop. The way most devices do it, this isn't true. Read on if you care about the math.) It turns out all of the PWM pod devices determine their duty by P=Vpod^2/R, so Vpod=sqrt(P*R), from which they conclude PWM=Vpod/Vbat=sqrt(P*R)/Vbat. A multimeter will back them up in this. (Mostly. There's also a huge battery voltage drop when firing on PWM devices.) The voltage is correct! Unfortunately, this is wrong. A multimeter will average the voltage over its sampling period. A PWM device is actually on/off. So the *real* power on a PWM device, when fully on, is P=Vbat^2/R, because it is connecting the battery to the coil. So, at a particular PWM duty cycle (0-1), you get P=(Vbat^2/R)*PWM, or PWM=P*R/Vbat^2. What's humorous about this is, when you measure with a multimeter, you're going to see the *averaged* voltage Vpod=PWM*Vbat=Psetting*R/Vbat. You're going to say "Let's use Ohm's Law", Pcalculated=V^2/R, and apply it to that averaged voltage, to get Pcalculated=Psetting^2*R^2/(Vbat^2*R)=Psetting*(Psetting*R/Vbat^2). See? The multimeter will tell you that it's wrong, when it's thermodynamically correct. You can't average voltage and then do that calculation on a PWM device. The factor by which it's off is how wrong the other calculation is. What you can see from the equation is that the way other PWM pod devices calculate wattage is not only incorrect, but the real wattage will change as the battery drains, and in a way that is different depending on the coil resistance. Fun! This is why the Oxva Pro 2 DNA has a "PWM Power Mode" Simulated Battery Voltage setting. We did better than the other devices by (1) matching the wattage you'd find on other PWM pod devices, *at near full battery*, while (2) using *correct* power control to make that stable over resistance and battery level. We left both options in. We knew for "PWM Power Mode" that most users of pod devices would be surprised if, even if entirely correct, the wattage level they set felt different than other devices. We also knew for "True RMS Power Mode" that we have some folks who can appreciate an accurate and correct vape.

EScribe Suite 2.0 SP66 For US-based customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP66_US_ServicePack.exe For international customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP66_INT_ServicePack.exe If you would like the Oxva-specific version, https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP66_OXVA.exe --- Oxva Pro 2 DNA --- Added support for this pod device. It has power control, Replay, customizable color schemes, support for 11 languages, and ECigStats support. --- Experimental Prelease Devices --- Test if you're interested. DNA 55 Color: This has customizations appropriate for pod devices, such as automatically distinguishing between different atomizers by resistance ranges -- see Mod->Atomizers. There's support for power control and Replay. Like a Color DNA, the user interface can be edited with Theme Designer. The Theme Designer support is a work in progress but does have some new features. DNA 80 Color Pod: This has customizations appropriate for pod devices, such as automatically distinguishing between different atomizers by resistance ranges -- see Mod->Atomizers. (You can switch between Color and Color Pod by applying firmware.) --- EScribe Suite --- Production Utility has been upgraded to support scripting and higher throughput operation. Bug fixes.

Here you go

yes something is wrong somewhere, ive just soldered the 510 when checking with a meter earth and 510 pin no fire button pressed im getting voltage of 3.2v then press the fire button and no change, Ok it looks like im gonna have to pull it all out and see whats happening, Hopefully i notice something this has totally baffelled me. Thankyou both @dwcraig1 @Wayneo for your time and patience i will start testing connection when i get a bit more time and hopefully have a good outcome

Do this and you'll see Puff time

hello author / developer. Please provide oxva escribe software for Mac :)

It looks to me that the 2 outer connector holes are your battery positive and negative, with the inner 4 the balancing wires. So it's all in one. Obviously replacing it with the battery that has the same connector would be the easiest option. Only you know your skill level.

Open a Help Desk ticket and report it. ⬇️ Link in my signature line. ⬇️

Thanks again for these useful informations!! I just returned back home from the shop and they accepted the mod for deeper investigation and most likely a possible fix/tuning. I cross my fingers to have a nice ending in this situation because i won't stop saying it that DNA is a dream 🙂 to me it feels like let's say you like to drive very fast and you love speed, and then, here take this Lamborghini and enjoy your ride. 🙂 Keep up the good work and enjoy this lovely new Week!! I appreciate your truthful and honest responses and for helping me understand some important things.

In escribe, if you hover over many/most fields you will find a quick definition. You cannot harm your mod or void the warranty. It might operate a little wonky but no harm. Some, like the original of that one tries to be uber clever but it has 2 issues which you might not notice. It uses 'user defined' toggles which do not get wiped out when you install another theme, AND the logic is flawed when using TC/Replay. There is a find and fix theme written by CMK that identifies toggles used. Under the 'mod' tab is where you need to be most careful. 'Device Monitor' (if you enable/click) on relevant parameters shows you live how your mod is operating. Garbage.

If you're wearing polarized sunglasses you'd have to turn the mod sideways outdoors, but certainly should be visible in a dark environment. Or perhaps a 'cleaner' theme for better clarity. The theme I use has no 'wallpaper' so it's solid black background. Have yourself a good Sunday also.

On my mods I can notice a slight change between 5 and 10. Mine are not Dovpo. Also, on mine there is nothing extra covering (over) the screen. If the front screen area is perfectly flush with the remaining body there might be a darkened cover over top. All four buttons on the mod are exactly the same on a bare board. Welcome 👋

I wire brushed the threads and contacts, and is fine now

Describe your coil like he did. Looks like Kanthal to me.

Hello, just wanted to let you know how it all went at the end: I sent the parsons to the shop where i bought it, vapeototal.net, in spain, they said that the mod was fine and that they wouldn't be giving me guarante on it, i had a conversation with the guy in customer service and he bragged about the fact that he was an electronics technician, quite arrogant and very unprofessional. obviously i was mad as fuck, i felt scammed tbh, they sent the mod back to me so i contacted vaperz cloud uk, they quickly aknowledged the issue and offered two options, i either sent my mod back and they would send another one but with a different color since mine was sold out, or, send me another one that according to them, was never sold because the cardboard case was broken in the same color as mine, i chose this option but when i received it i noticed some use marks on it and the protective film from the cristal that covered the screen was gonne, aaaand it also had the same issue of "weak battery" with a fully charged brand new battery... to me it's clear that these mods had a manufacturing problem, i nailed it down to the top plate being black anodized even in the thread for the battery screw, once it even got bruning hot precisely in that spot... i contacted vaperz cloud uk again and we agreed that i'd be sending the two broken parsons back (i did have to pay postage this time though, 12€ from spain) but i was done with the model overall so i got myself a very beautiful green plasma san aio dna80c that's performing flwalessly so far. Vaping with a 0.97ohm mtl at 35w and a 0,17ohm at 80w and only had a few weak battery a couple of times with a half empty p26a, but then i screwed the battery a bit tighter and it was gone. so all good. glad it did get solved at the end. remember not to buy shit from vapeototal.net! them spaniards living up to the scammer and unprofessional fame lol (they even teach this shit in schools so go figure...)

I can see them all charged up in your first pic. In your 2nd you see cell 1 is 4 hundredths of a volt lower than cell 2 and 3. I'd say that's fine for that battery. Nothing new required. Earlier I said this and yours charged to 4.2V. From evolv's testing and mooch, by setting the charge limit to 4.1V you can save on battery life. You might want to make that change when you get a new battery, or I can explain now. Enjoy your mod, the search bar works, and now you know where we are.

Good evening @Wayneo, ok first screenshot is of fully charged, second screenshot is whilst taking a quick draw.

No, doesn't prove a thing. I'll ask Jacob.

@RicketyPumpkin Link now fixed for the INT version. Thanks.

It's a 3 cell battery. That's 3@1200mAh, so 3,600mAh total or about a single 21700 battery. Your vaping habits will dictate length of usage. LiPo's will have lower voltage sag overall compared to a round cell (all things being equal). You are limited by the cavity size for what will fit inside. If you're lucky you might find a bigger cell but it would probably only be an extra 100-200 more mAh. Hobbyking has a LiPo sizer. I'd look at the dimensions of that Turnigy and use the sizer for other 3S batteries, or Amazon or an RC store. Edit: Your picture of yours looks like an OG 'Fullymax' battery, used by many vendors, including the Steamcrave Hadron Pros, but hard to find at retail. I have 6 LiPo mods and can say they like to be used, as they can easily get out of balance a little. Like your cell 1 which in all screenshots is 0.03V lower. That might add 10 minutes extra charge time.

Did not matter at all. It's just the sum of the 3 cell voltages. If you look, they're all pretty much the same and your mod is charging ~1A. All looks good. At lower voltages that charging would be closer to 2A, and will now continue to decrease from 1A the closer it gets to full. Full could be 4.1V or 4.2V, depending on how the mod was setup. After it's fully charged, while plugged in, you could also enable 'Power' and 'Power set', take a puff, pause the screen and that will show how each individual cell is operating. You could post that screenshot if you want us to look at it.

you should have changed it to = don't be a dope, lol

You're welcome. I'm gonna change the subject title to better reflect the issue. Hope you don't mind.

Were both batteries charged externally? And what make and model are they? Look at each battery's voltage right now. Unplug your mod, and swap the battery positions in your mod. If cell 1 (old cell 2) still shows lower than cell 1, then we know something is wrong with that area. Either way you might want to clean all their contacts with Isopropyl alcohol (IPO), or even better, semi dismantle the mod and look for ejuice and wipe down the area around the bottom of the board (both sides), those 2 fatter connections and those 5 small ones. There might be white connector which you can pull apart off the board. Wipe down everything. Looking at your screenshot, ideally/regularly they should be parallel. When you take a puff they should both dip/sag equally. No, it's not dangerous, but it should be fixed. Because that % is based on the lowest cell, your mod will give you a weak or check battery much sooner than it should, and stop working.

Thanks, great. Your cell 1 is only at 3.5V. That % is based on the lowest cell. Charge both fully, hopefully externally and try it then.

In normal usage the ambient temp is pretty flat, but it will change. It really only matters if you are a TC vaper. When you put cells back in, it also re-reads the resistance of your coil.

The wick had time to re-saturate perhaps. I'm going to send you a message.

Let me give you a general explanation based on what you have written. Replay wants to recreate the puff you saved. Your coil/mesh will raise its resistance when you fire it, and lower its resistance as it cools back to ambient temperature. When in your 'Replay' mode, but NOT enabled, the mod keeps track of that resistance curve created by your puff. And when you click 'Save Puff' your mod tries to recreate that curve. Sometimes exactly, or at lower wattages. Your mod 'right now' shows 'boost:Punch' at 3 (but not on), 'warmth' at 1. So right now you get no boost of watts initially, and it's just 50 watts. Once you click 'save puff' warmth now enters the picture. IF you were chain vaping your coil before enabling replay and your coil has cooled to ambient you will get even more watts than 50 but not too much. That's warmth. OR depending on different factors you definitely get less watts than what you initially set. Like if your coil is not as saturated as when you enabled replay. You can actually vape that mesh almost DRY without a dry burn. If you have any questions or want me to clarify anything let me know. Or if I have cleared up your understanding.

The situation where you have 3.2 volts between output and ground is troubling. This is something that I have no experience with so I measured the voltage between output and ground on two of my DNA60s and my one DNA60C, all three read about the same, just over 0.7 volts. And no change if fire button pressed.

IMHO you've gotta meter out all your connections. For the USB-C you know it has worked outside the box. I'd lift that off and see if it connects, then lift at the board end if it still didn't connect. What else could it be? Same thing for the battery. Using 1 battery, measure it externally then in each slot at all the connection points to the board. Then do the other battery slot. Same thing for the fire button and up/down.

Edit : So I've now mounted the board and type c board in place, I am running 2x18350 Batteries in parallel, plugged it into escribe and it will not recognise the board saying please connect a device 🤔 All I have left to connect is the 510 - and + with the batteries inserted i put a meter on the positive and negative and without pressing the fire button it's showing 3.2v when I press the fire button there is no change in the voltage. I have spent hours building the mod and searching the forum for an answer but to no avail, would anybody have any ideas or suggestions please I'm about to call it a day as it's eating into my long weekend off work. Have attached some pics...... Cheers Simon

B- and G ground is cell 1 negative. Pin 1 is cell 1 positive and cell 2 negative. Yes, Pin 2 is cell 2 positive and needs to be bridged to 2-4 plus B+ like you have. But you need to clean it up. I also worry about all that exposed wire on the red. When you're done, use your multimeter and measure Ground + Pin1 (cell 1 voltage), then Pin1 + Pin2 (cell 2 voltage).

The only requirement here is a DNA board.

Download new theme Start escribe with mod plugged in. Go to theme -> Load theme (Select theme you just downloaded) choose 'Open' (on a Mac) Then 'Upload Settings to Device' <- Most important thing 😉 A theme also includes the following screen behavior fields Active time, Idle Time, Fade-In, and Fade-out time. <- If you don't like any of the 4, change it yourself. Under the Language Tab are short forms for messages. If you don't like them, change them BUT if you want to report an issue you need to use the long form, or the default Evolv short-forms. After you've done it a few times, there is a quicker way by just starting escribe, then 'Theme Designer' immediately.

maybe someone has a hussar locus theme

you need D- / D+ from this breakout board going to pins 13 and 14 on the DNA 60, you also need to connect VCC to USB Vdetect using a 10k ohm resistor. connect GND to any ground or batt neg point on the DNA 60. this will give you EScribe capability. make sense?