joeblowma

250c LED on with screen?

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I'm using the 'gauges 2.1' theme at the moment on this Paranormal 250c, looking in the theme designer the LED should be off unless firing... but it is showing up as light green which changes in intensity along with the screen brightness. I recall seeing a similar topic which claimed 'yellow' (which it is honestly close to, but I see green) though all the suggestions in there were related to the LED settings, which as far as I can tell should be off:

LED_settings.jpg

but this is what I get on the mod:

LED_actual.thumb.jpg.bf6bd75d6d005a45b8b7ff232edf271d.jpg

I edited the theme setting to have a 1s black LED, made no difference.

Light bleed from the TFT into the LED? Should I be worried about the LCD ribbon? I'm not adverse to fixing things myself if it's something simple like adding kapton tape (I've done plenty of electronic reworks, even hand assembled boards like this one without hot air), but if it's something normal with this board I can live with it.

Edited by joeblowma
trying to remove extra settings image I didn't put there...

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It did it with the default theme it came with, at the time I thought it was just the theme settings but I had saved it before I changed it and checked just now and nope, it's set to no LED in 'normal'. I just threw a couple more themes on, ones that don't take as much memory as this one, and still an issue there. I'm 99% certain it's nothing to do with themes, barring an obscure firmware bug... at least I haven't run into the "won't resume from sleep" issues others have had.

I did forget to mention I'm using the software with SetupEScribe2_SP15_1_INT_ServicePack applied, and have updated the board to 1.1 SP33.2 INT, though as I said it was doing it with whatever firmware was on it when I got it too.

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Problem solved! As shown here (click to zoom):

light_bleed.jpg

They put a stick on diffuser above the LED as well as a semi  transparent membrane for the button to sit on, but the backlight on the screen bleeds through the FPC into the button membrane meaning the TFT backlight was lighting the LED hole a little. I cut the diffuser a little shorter on the sticky side so it doesn't get close to the screen FPC, then (carefully) put a cut-to-size strip of electrical tape over the bleedy portion of the fpc, final result no more phantom green light and a cleaner/truer color LED from the reds/blues in the theme I've been using:

LED_fixed.thumb.jpg.fdbfe5183ca36092fc7998837daa5277.jpg

Glad in the end I didn't have to bug Evolv about this problem, it is really a Lost Vape design issue. The TFT ribbon is placed well away from the button/LED and the TFT is held up by a nice little frame so it was only an annoyance not a cause for concern.

Edited by joeblowma
again forum inserted picture too many times
  • Like 2

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Indeed, it was light being "fiber optic-ed" (diffused) down the predominantly green/yellow ribbon, which explains why I saw green and someone else yellow. I was worried it would be hard to get at it because DJLSB's paranormal review claimed it was impossible to open, but 10 screws and the bottom and then frame over the screen just pop off. Hopefully it helps someone else, in the least to not worry too much about it.

Great mod by the way, really loving DNA250c, almost never gave it a chance because I didn't like the DNA75 I have.

Edited by joeblowma

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I have another lost vape 250c that does the same thing (The Tirade), could you indicate on your picture where you put the electrical tape as i seem to be a little dense this morning and can't see where you put it.  

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Sure, I marked the diffuser with a pinkish box and the ribbon the bleed is coming from with a red box. I had to remove the diffuser and shorten it a little so it wasn't making physical contact with the ribbon, then put something between the ribbon that is bleeding light and it.

light_bleed_pointers.jpg

Edited by joeblowma

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I have the same problem with the light bleed. Could show me how you got the paranormal open? I cant seem to get it, and don't want to force it and break something.

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First, take out your batteries. Take out 2 phillips screws by battery door hinge at the bottom front of the mod (marked as 1), remove the battery door.

Under the battery door is 1 screw, then 2 more between the batteries (marked as 2, though one of them is under the battery door). Once these 3 screws are out with some gentle pressure the bottom of the mod just pops off directly down.

Take out the 3 screws around the 510 connector, and the 2 screws on either side of the frame on the opposite end of the two for the battery door (marked as 3).

Once the bottom is off and those other 5 screws are out, you can grab that front panel part down below the usb port (marked as 4) and pop it forward and up. This gives you access to the buttons and piece I was taking photos of previously.

1_frame_screws.jpg2_battery_screws.jpg

Edited by joeblowma

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This is very helpful. Would you happen to know if any further disassembly than what you've described here is necessary to replace the screen?

I don't have a problem at the moment, but I'm preparing for a possibly future eventuality.
Thanks very much.

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Not much further, the screen is sitting in a tray and you'd probably have to figure out how to get that tray out to get at the connector.

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As a moderator, I cannot delete your account.

Either just never sign on again (we do not spam you), or open a Help Desk ticket and ask if they will remove it. 

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Quote

Not much further, the screen is sitting in a tray and you'd probably have to figure out how to get that tray out to get at the connector.



Thank you and sorry for the delayed response. I'm assuming the tray is kinda like a frame that holds the screen in. I'm hoping it can be removed from the point you show in your pix and doessn't have to be detached from the back somehow. I've done plenty of work on Laptops and sometimes what could have been a five minute operation stretches into a couple hours because the way the assembly is designed.

Edited by gsmit1
forget the quote tags

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It's in no way as involved as a laptop screen, those things need to be built for rigidity (and I've seen more than one fail because they weren't or worse the hinges were badly thought out.)

Worst case there is some double sided tape holding the screen to the frame but IIRC it's just some tape strips down the two side and once you lift those and the screen/glass itself you might even have access to the connector and not even need to get the supporting frame out. I'd have to open it up again myself to be 100% certain as when I've gone in it wasn't to get access to the board at all, but every build I've seen around these screens has been more or less "tape it to a frame" or "put something behind it to hold it into a frame" and in paranormal 250c's case it's definitely resting on top of the frame.

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