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Nisei said:

That's different. Low Ohm setups draw more current than high Ohm setups at the same wattage. When being able to set max current draw you can set an amperage which you feel is safe for the batteries you're using and don't have to pay attention to your ohm/wattage combination. Can be quite useful when using batteries with a lower than recommended mAh rating.



That is the other side of the conversion process, on the battery side just think watts, the board is 97% efficient so it is not even worth doing the more accurate calc and factoring the 3% loss, but it would mean this:
Out W   Batt W
200 W   206.2 W
150 W   159.8 W
100 W   103.1 W
....

This is the same regardless of the coil ohms, with all VW boards think watts in, watts out.

So 9 V currents would be
Out W   Batt A
200 W   22.9 A
150 W   17.76 A
100 W   11.45 A

But as always leave a little head room.
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Nisei said:

0.10 Ohms @ 60W = 24.49A current draw
1.00 Ohm @ 60W =  7.75A current draw
That's more than 3 times the current draw. How can the board change Ohm's Law?



It doesn't, you need to remember the voltages for each example are different and both different to the battery voltage.  

   V = IR

0.1 ohm @ 24.49 A = 2.449 V
1 ohm @ 7.75 A = 7.75 V

I haven't checked but assume you are correct these both = 60 W, so the battery has to supply 61.86 W to the converter (the voltage this is at changes with battery charge).  At the lowest charge level 9 V that would be 6.873 A  (I = P/V).

(To be pedantic P is not part of Ohm's Law)
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A side note outside of all of the technical info, the DNA 200 has the built in charger. We all know this, but i think we are stuck in the battery swapping habit. I run my 200 at 60-90 watts all day on the turnigy 3s 1300mah lipo. I've only had one day where after 18 hours the battery got low. To avoid this, I just charge on the go. Plugging into a charger throughout the day (like in your car, at your desk, whenever you plug your phone in) will keep your mod very charged and it's not an inconvenience.

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Havoc340 said:

Plugging into a charger throughout the day (like in your car, at your desk, whenever you plug your phone in) will keep your mod very charged and it's not an inconvenience.


Well, for me that is an inconvenience. I don't want to have to think about it all the time. There comes a time when you're halfway through the day and you're out of power. With a phone you can plug it into the charger and start using it right away. You can't do that with an APV.
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Nisei said:

[QUOTE=Havoc340]Plugging into a charger throughout the day (like in your car, at your desk, whenever you plug your phone in) will keep your mod very charged and it's not an inconvenience.


Well, for me that is an inconvenience. I don't want to have to think about it all the time. There comes a time when you're halfway through the day and you're out of power. With a phone you can plug it into the charger and start using it right away. You can't do that with an APV.[/QUOTE] Do you mean vaping while it charging? You able to do that with the 200's
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Nisei said:


Well, for me that is an inconvenience. I don't want to have to think about it all the time. There comes a time when you're halfway through the day and you're out of power. With a phone you can plug it into the charger and start using it right away. You can't do that with an APV.



Why not?
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dc601 said:

Any reason something like this power bank won't work with the 200? It is both a charger and power bank.



The DNA200 has a 1a charger built in and is designed to be used with any 5v USB power source so I don't see why not. Most power banks have at least 1 1a port. Even with the older 500ma ports, the DNA200 would charge at 500ma. It would be slow at half speed but it will charge. 
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dc601 said:

Forgot to link the power bank.  Edited previous post but here it is.

http://www.amazon.com/Anker-13000mAh-Capacity-Portable-Technology/dp/B00BQ5KHJW/ref=pd_sim_107_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1XQ557V7JJRZAD2B039V



Anker's IQ ports are great. I have an Anker 5 port usb charging hub (Powerbot PB5000) that gives up to 2.1a to each port (up to 8a/40w total). 

You should be fine with that power bank. 
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KTMRider said:

[QUOTE=Nisei]
Well, for me that is an inconvenience. I don't want to have to think about it all the time. There comes a time when you're halfway through the day and you're out of power. With a phone you can plug it into the charger and start using it right away. You can't do that with an APV.


Why not?[/QUOTE]
Because then the charger would have to be able to deliver all the power. A phone hardly uses any power, an APV needs lots of power. When your APV cuts out because the battery is low and you then plug it into a charger doesn't mean you can start vaping right away.
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Nisei said:


Because then the charger would have to be able to deliver all the power. A phone hardly uses any power, an APV needs lots of power. When your APV cuts out because the battery is low and you then plug it into a charger doesn't mean you can start vaping right away.



Not quite. DNA's have a "limp mode" where it will still fire at low battery conditions. Unless the battery is completely dead, you should still be able to vape (not chain vape).
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Nisei said:

[QUOTE=KTMRider][QUOTE=Nisei]
Well, for me that is an inconvenience. I don't want to have to think about it all the time. There comes a time when you're halfway through the day and you're out of power. With a phone you can plug it into the charger and start using it right away. You can't do that with an APV.


Why not?[/QUOTE]
Because then the charger would have to be able to deliver all the power. A phone hardly uses any power, an APV needs lots of power. When your APV cuts out because the battery is low and you then plug it into a charger doesn't mean you can start vaping right away.[/QUOTE]
That is only if you run it flat, the DNA200 stops charging when you press fire and resumes 5 seconds after you stop firing so it is fine to top up and Li has no memory effect so there is no need to run them flat.
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VapingBad said:

That is only if you run it flat, the DNA200 stops charging when you press fire and resumes 5 seconds after you stop firing so it is fine to top up and Li has no memory effect so there is no need to run them flat.

Oh I know. But my comment was about when you forget charging and do run flat halfway through the day. I just like to have a spare available at all times. Fixed batteries just ain't my thing.
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KTMRider said:

[QUOTE=Nisei]
Because then the charger would have to be able to deliver all the power. A phone hardly uses any power, an APV needs lots of power. When your APV cuts out because the battery is low and you then plug it into a charger doesn't mean you can start vaping right away.



Not quite. DNA's have a "limp mode" where it will still fire at low battery conditions. Unless the battery is completely dead, you should still be able to vape (not chain vape).[/QUOTE] Cool, that I didn't know about.
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Don't forget that best practice for battery health is to discharge them until your mod cuts off the battery and also to recharge, uninterrupted to 100%

You'll get more cycles out of your batteries if you practice this regularly.

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These are not NiCad batteries, fully discharging and particularly fully charging will lead to lower battery life (you can take advantage of this on the mod tab in escribe), also no memory effect so nothing wrong with top-up charging, no trickle charging so no need to keep plugged in once fully charged.

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

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Yeah I had that idea too. Shouldn't be a problem to hard wire it. The board can take an absolute max of 16V. I'm already using a mod with my own regulator I built myself in the same way. The DNA200 mod I'm going to build will have dual power options. It's got a battery inside and a DC Power In socket which will disconnect the battery when you put a plug in the socket. That way you can use it as a regular mod on the go and save battery power while it's connected to an external power source (car battery or other DC power supply).

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Oh, I forgot to mention you don't need to wire any balance connectors when making a mod for your car. And in escribe, set Battery type to Power Supply.
Doh! Forgot about that myself so it won't be possible to switch between internal and external power on the go :(

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