Rip Posted November 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I have built several Ni200 Coils and Ti coils with no luck. After building a ni200 i attach to the device and it always says dry coil unless i hit it once and unscrew and put back on and press new coil - then it seems to strong, but doesnt give me dry coil screen every hit. The same thing happens with Ti builds (placing the rda on the mod at room temp). I also have the csv for each wire from steam engine. Anyone had this problem or know what im doing wrong. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awsum140 Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Out of curiosity, what brand/model mod are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Should've mentioned that. Hcigar vt200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spector NS5 RD Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 what are your ohms when you place the COLD atty on your dna 200? not when you fire it for a second then hit new coil. all youre doing is fooling the board into thinking the baseline resistance is higher than what it actually is. what is your temp set at for ni200, and ti? how many watts. what if any csv's are you running? what is your mod resistance set to? what type of atty are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 i know its fooling it once i fire and put back on. 12 wrap 28g ni200 @.08. Tried on velocity clone and petri clone. Tried the ni200 setting on the escribe and. Temp 450 @ 70w - Preheat/punch 125w punch at 5. mod resistance .0045. Was using ti with the same setting but ti grade 1 csv."Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"-58,0.5868,1212,1.48302,1.78392,2.08482,2.38572,2.68800,3.44 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spector NS5 RD Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 from what u posted, nothing looks fishy with your settings. how bad does it burn your cotton? does it just singe it or burst into flames? you are using spaced coils right? im sure u know nickel is very soft and not to crank down on the post screws. can you post some pics of your build and a screen shot of device monitor while firing the ni or ti coil? make sure temp, set temp, ohms, live ohms, power, and power set are ticked in the boxes. do a couple test fires and post those up on here.edit..... make sure the your mod res is set to .0045 and not .045 just check and make sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 My nickel builds are spaced with 12 wraps. The cotton has burned some with the nickel, but not enough to taste. The cotton burns with contact Ti (works good for a couple hours then it will just hit really harsh and its done), just singes. The problem with nickel it almost always says dry coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 sorry i meant temp protected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Saying temp protected is not a problem as such more an info message, if you are not getting enough vapour at your settings it back to first principles: more contact area between coil and wick, airflow and wicking. As long as you are at a temp that produces vapour those things are ways to produce more at that tempreture if your atty can support it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spector NS5 RD Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 device monitor looks good, normal. maybe try building a little higher in the ohm range like .15 and above. ive noticed that the 200 is quicker to throw up the " temperature protected" message than the dna 40. but all that message means is youre set wattage is higher than what is needed for that peroid of time during your vape, so the chip regulates the wattage so your temperature isnt exceeded. ive been around temp control for quite a while now and it can still be frustrating sometimes, but most of the times its my error. just play with your temp settings, wattage, builds ohms etc and you'll get the hang of it. i would ditch the nickel, its too fussy to work with(imo). stick with ti. if u get a chance try some nife48, it should be a must try on your list. you probably have hot spots in your nickel coil and your preheat is exploiting that. try a new coil and only make your preheat 25% above your set wattage and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Ok. This is my first try at temp control. Guess I'm so used to kanthal and n80. I'll try and turn the temp up more - for a warmer vape. Here is what my ni200 builds look like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spector NS5 RD Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 great looking build. i see youre insistent on making dual ni coils, lol. arrrrggggggg. try a single one first. make absolutely sure they're an equal number of wraps if their gonna be dual coil. im telling you if you have some ti grade 1 you'll be much happier. you can do contact coils with ti. overall easier to work with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Awesome. Thanks for the tips. I have been building for about 2 months and have built lots of n80 and a1- have them on my instagram ripk0n. Frustrating I can't get the temp control wire to work out. I'll try another ti build tonight. Is the wire suppose to stay blue after heating Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spirometry Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 I run my velocity at 490° @ 60watts . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 This is the only ti I have and chose ti grade 1 csvHere is a link to my instagram. https://www.instagram.com/ripk0n/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 I will try the ti tonight and order the wire you suggested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spector NS5 RD Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 blue and most of the colors of the rainbow are ok. just dont pulse them past a dark red. i never do and i never go above 10 watts. dull grey/yellowish-you cooked your coil. as in created ti dioxide. bad stuff. makes your peter fall off. but seriously, its no good for you.EDIT...... are those all your builds coils, mods....... i even see some power supplies laying around.nice...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Yes i build box mods and vape stations lol. I move fast. Only been vaping 2-1/2 months. I also build my own coils - i learn very fast. The guy that custom laser engraves my boxes just got the Alpintech pre-cut dna 200 boxes, so ill be making a dna 200 as well. The power supplies are for OKR t10 passthroughs for vape stations/ tester stations. I only used 9 watts last time and turned the lights off and they glowed very faint, but they wasnt blue anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 I can get a Velocity to vape at 120 W without temp protection kicking in all the time at 400 F (I don't like it, just did it to see if I could), you need to spread the heat over the wick to use the power while not having to increase the temp limit. Pre-heat will get your big coils up to temp and there is no need to build like you would with Kanthal you have more flexibility in the bigger coil direction, but keeping the coils size/contact area small will reduce your options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 How many wraps would you suggest for dual coil 24g ti grade 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Not using Ti myself, but SteamEngine gives a good starting point, remember to set the wattage and see what is in the sub 200 heat flux area so you hav acoil that takes a little more heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudChaser Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 I had the same problem with Ni200 and Ti1. It happened on all of my tanks and all of my temp control mods including my SX350j and DNA 200 nods. Check out my reply here.https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/67809-topic/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisss Posted November 18, 2015 Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 Rip said:How many wraps would you suggest for dual coil 24g ti grade 1.well I have tried a lot of different coils with titanium 2 that work for me are dual twisted 2x28gauge 5 wraps on a 2.5 mm spaced (no need to dryburn/dull glow)or my go to coil at the moment is dual coil single wire 28 gauge Ti 10 wraps contact coils pulse heated with 10 watts and squeezed until there is discolouration in the centre .... works a dream for me and the coils seem to be consistent for a lot longer than spaced NI200 , Ti or SS.comes out about .16ohmthe other thing that has made a massive difference is this!I currently have 5 velocity clones(before you all have a go! my name is on the waiting list for a genuine one, and as long as i can react to the email that they are back in stock in time! I will have a genuine one.)Anyway the biggest difference for me with TC was to replace the grub screws with some decent SS grub screws. This has stabilised my resistances and in almost every case the resistance has dropped , just by the new screws making a better contact Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudChaser Posted November 18, 2015 Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 Hi Lewisss. Currently I use Mutation X MT (Mutation Tank). I use Ti, 6 wraps of 24 gauge dual coils @.13 ohms and I have no resistance problems as long as I tighten the hell out of the grub screws with the supplied screw driver. It does not clip the wires and is very stable. I have ordered a Steam Crave Aromamizer which employs a velocity style deck. Where did you purchase the grub screws? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisss Posted November 18, 2015 Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 CloudChaser said:Hi Lewisss. Currently I use Mutation X MT (Mutation Tank). I use Ti, 6 wraps of 24 gauge dual coils @.13 ohms and I have no resistance problems as long as I tighten the hell out of the grub screws with the supplied screw driver. It does not clip the wires and is very stable. I have ordered a Steam Crave Aromamizer which employs a velocity style deck. Where did you purchase the grub screws?here is the link, http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ScrewBolt_M.html they do cup, cone dogpoint and flat point grub screws, I ordered all 4 to try and the flat point ones work the best for me. I got m3X4mm which are longer than the originals . saying that 3 of my clones are m3 the other two are m2.5 I also got a wiha picofinish 263p hex driver https://www.wiha.com/en/produkte/screwdrivers-20728/picofinish-hex-screwdriver.htmlso much easier than using allen keys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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