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No luck with temp control


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I have built several Ni200 Coils and Ti coils with no luck. After building a ni200 i attach to the device and it always says dry coil unless i hit it once and unscrew and put back on and press new coil - then it seems to strong, but doesnt give me dry coil screen every hit. The same thing happens with Ti builds (placing the rda on the mod at room temp). I also have the csv for each wire from steam engine. Anyone had this problem or know what im doing wrong. Thanks

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what are your ohms when you place the COLD atty on your dna 200? not when you fire it for a second then hit new coil. all youre doing is fooling the board into thinking the baseline resistance is higher than what it actually is. what is your temp set at for ni200, and ti? how many watts. what if any csv's are you running? what is your mod resistance set to? what type of atty are you using?

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i know its fooling it once i fire and put back on. 12 wrap 28g ni200 @.08. Tried on velocity clone and petri clone. Tried the ni200 setting on the escribe and. Temp 450 @ 70w - Preheat/punch 125w  punch at 5. mod resistance .0045. Was using ti with the same setting but ti grade 1 csv.

"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-58,0.58
68,1
212,1.48
302,1.78
392,2.08
482,2.38
572,2.68
800,3.44

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from what u posted, nothing looks fishy with your settings. how bad does it burn your cotton? does it just singe it or burst into flames?  you are using spaced coils right? im sure u know nickel is very soft and not to crank down on the post screws. can you post some pics of your build and a screen shot of device monitor while firing the ni or ti coil? make sure temp, set temp, ohms, live ohms, power, and power set are ticked in the boxes. do a couple test fires and post those up on here.

edit..... make sure the your mod res is set to .0045 and not .045      just check and make sure

ohms.png

first_run.png

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My nickel builds are spaced with 12 wraps. The cotton has burned some with the nickel, but not enough to taste. The cotton burns with contact Ti (works good for a couple hours  then it will just hit really harsh and its done), just singes. The problem with nickel  it almost always says dry coil. 
first run.png  first_run.png  ohms.png 
res.png

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Saying temp protected is not a problem as such more an info message, if you are not getting enough vapour at your settings it back to first principles: more contact area between coil and wick, airflow and wicking.  As long as you are at a temp that produces vapour those things are ways to produce more at that tempreture if your atty can support it.

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device monitor looks good, normal. maybe try building a little higher in the ohm range like .15 and above. ive noticed that the 200 is quicker to throw up the " temperature protected" message than the dna 40. but all that message means is youre set wattage is higher than what is needed for that peroid of time during your vape, so the chip regulates the wattage so your temperature isnt exceeded. ive been around temp control for quite a while now and it can still be frustrating sometimes, but most of the times its my error. just play with your temp settings, wattage, builds ohms etc and you'll get the hang of it. i would ditch the nickel, its too fussy to work with(imo). stick with ti. if u get a chance try some nife48, it should be a must try on your list. you probably have hot spots in your nickel coil and your preheat is exploiting that. try a new coil and only make your preheat 25% above your set wattage and see what happens.

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Awesome. Thanks for the tips. I have been building for about 2 months and have built lots of n80 and a1- have them on my instagram ripk0n. Frustrating I can't get the temp control wire to work out. I'll try another ti build tonight. Is the wire suppose to stay blue after heating

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blue and most of the colors of the rainbow are ok. just dont pulse them past a dark red. i never do and i never go above 10 watts. dull grey/yellowish-you cooked your coil. as in created ti dioxide. bad stuff. makes your peter fall off. but seriously, its no good for you.

EDIT...... are those all your builds coils, mods....... i even see some power supplies laying around.
nice......

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Yes i build box mods and vape stations lol. I move fast. Only been vaping 2-1/2 months. I also build my own coils - i learn very fast. The guy that custom laser engraves my boxes just got the Alpintech pre-cut dna 200 boxes, so ill be  making a dna 200 as well. The power supplies are for OKR t10 passthroughs for vape stations/ tester stations. I only used  9 watts last time and turned the lights off and they glowed very faint, but they wasnt blue anymore.

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I can get a Velocity to vape at 120 W without temp protection kicking in all the time at 400 F (I don't like it, just did it to see if I could), you need to spread the heat over the wick to use the power while not having to increase the temp limit.  Pre-heat will get your big coils up to temp and there is no need to build like you would with Kanthal you have more flexibility in the bigger coil direction, but keeping the coils size/contact area small will reduce your options.

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Rip said:

How many wraps would you suggest for dual coil 24g ti grade 1.



well I have tried a lot of different coils with titanium 2 that work for me are dual twisted 2x28gauge 5 wraps on a 2.5 mm spaced (no need to dryburn/dull glow)

or my go to coil at the moment is dual coil single wire  28 gauge Ti 10 wraps contact coils pulse heated with 10 watts and squeezed until there is discolouration in the centre .... works a dream for me and the coils seem to be consistent for a lot longer than spaced NI200 , Ti or SS.

comes out about .16ohm

the other thing that has made a massive difference is this!

I currently have 5 velocity clones(before you all have a go! my name is on the waiting list for a genuine one, and  as long as i can react to the email that they are back in stock in time! I will have a genuine one.)


Anyway the biggest difference for me with TC was to replace the grub screws with some decent SS grub screws. This has stabilised my resistances and in almost every case the resistance has  dropped , just by the new screws making a better contact
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Hi Lewisss. Currently I use Mutation X MT (Mutation Tank). I use Ti, 6 wraps of 24 gauge dual coils @.13 ohms and I have no resistance problems as long as I tighten the hell out of the grub screws with the supplied screw driver. It does not clip the wires and is very stable. I have ordered a Steam Crave Aromamizer which employs a velocity style deck. Where did you purchase the grub screws?

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CloudChaser said:

Hi Lewisss. Currently I use Mutation X MT (Mutation Tank). I use Ti, 6 wraps of 24 gauge dual coils @.13 ohms and I have no resistance problems as long as I tighten the hell out of the grub screws with the supplied screw driver. It does not clip the wires and is very stable. I have ordered a Steam Crave Aromamizer which employs a velocity style deck. Where did you purchase the grub screws?



here is the link,   http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ScrewBolt_M.html   they do cup, cone dogpoint and flat point grub screws, I ordered all 4 to try and the flat point ones work the best for me. I got m3X4mm which are longer than the originals . saying that 3 of my clones are m3 the other two are m2.5 

I also got a  wiha picofinish 263p hex driver https://www.wiha.com/en/produkte/screwdrivers-20728/picofinish-hex-screwdriver.html

so much easier than using allen keys
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