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Hana V200


monster92

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MikeTheVapeDude said:

I think the 510 itself is fine the pin in it is just so damned stiff that sometimes stuff sits crooked until I wrench it down which I will NOT do because that can wear the threads.

My 510 works fine. It doesn't have a lot of up and down movement range but that's due to the battery size and room available. I measured my 510 pin resistance to the board and it was .06 ohm. And then the 510 ground do the board ground was .036. Which I think is a problem
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MikeTheVapeDude said:

Is stuff a bit more wobbly than normal on anyone else's  510s?



Yep, mine was definitely wobbly before my Circlip released itself that held the 510 assembly in place.  Since putting the circlip back in place, now my atomizers sit flush and do not wobble or have gaps.

On another note...  Since upgrading my firmware to the 2015-07-29 version, I am unable to use the Get Information button...  It returns an error: Unknown error "System.Reflection.AmbiguousMatchException".  Is this normal?  BTW, I am running Windows 10 Pro & Windows 8.1 Pro and the error appears on both.
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Mine sits flush fine, I just noticed the threads in the 510 are a little thin compared to my other 510's. If they strip or go, I'll screw an old Stillare deck on, snip the 510 wire and yank it out like I did with the snow wolf, then find someway to put a FD V4 LP Short in there. Or maybe just transfer the chip to another box, I'm not gonna complain about a mod that's working a lot better than some of the other people on here's Hana's. Knock on wood.

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This 510 is horrible. I threaded in a .5mm thick (Yeah it's thin) 510 to 510 threader that basically just replaces the threads and creates a small .5mm metal space inbetween the pin and the addy, and this pin is tall anyway. Still the same 510 pin as it's just a thread replacer, and now that the pin is a little further from the addy stuff threads in and out MUCH better, I'm leaving this on until I replace the 510 somehow, because you literally can't even tell it's there when something is on the mod. Actually kinda looks better, because it flush fits inside the little cup around the 510 itself, and has the FD style airflow lines. Hm, might just loctite this thing in permanently and leave it be, it works AND looks better with it on. Resistance still reads fine and the pins still make firm, good contact. Stuff just threads on much better and easier, and now it almost looks like I have a 22mm Varitube 510.

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MikeTheVapeDude said:

This 510 is horrible. I threaded in a .5mm thick (Yeah it's thin) 510 to 510 threader that basically just replaces the threads and creates a small .5mm metal space inbetween the pin and the addy, and this pin is tall anyway. Still the same 510 pin as it's just a thread replacer, and now that the pin is a little further from the addy stuff threads in and out MUCH better, I'm leaving this on until I replace the 510 somehow, because you literally can't even tell it's there when something is on the mod. Actually kinda looks better, because it flush fits inside the little cup around the 510 itself, and has the FD style airflow lines. Hm, might just loctite this thing in permanently and leave it be, it works AND looks better with it on. Resistance still reads fine and the pins still make firm, good contact. Stuff just threads on much better and easier, and now it almost looks like I have a 22mm Varitube 510.

Link to this adapter?
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If I had a link I'd give it to you, I had this custom machined when my snow wolf's 510 bit the dust. The threads are a bit beefier than standard 510 threads but not so much it ruins what's left of the threads, and unlike 510 to 510 adapters there's no pin inside it, which is why the .5mm ring is so thin, so the atomizer can still make good contact with the pin inside the 510 already. The 510 cup on the Hana made it sit flush perfectly, which worked out well but I still would like to replace this.. so what if the hole for the hana's 510 is 16-18mm? a 22mm 510 can easily fit over it and with the use of a spacer.. this is why I make box mods, why am I asking questions. Fast-Tech has a VERY similar adapter, but I have no idea if I can find it, I will try though buddy.

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I'm putting on my combat boots and going in. I'm going to take a drill bit and size it up to where it's just SLIGHTLY larger than the actual 510 inside the cup, gut the box, safely, and just drill RIGHT through this thing, the whole 510, threads and all, pin too, will be replaced by a hole. I am then going to take a FD V4 Low Profile short and slide it into this hole and secure it with a nut and loctite super glue, if I'm correct, the V4 LP Short is 1mm, the same size if not ever so slightly bigger than the space the 510 cup is, will flush fit down into it, and it's 22mm to 22mm. Then Rewire the 510, ground it out and.. yeah.

Anybody wanna stop me if this is a horrible idea? Or give me an alternative. I'm not doing it until someone who's had an up-close look at the guts of this box already tells me if it's possible, so.


EDIT: Took it apart, looks fairly simple. What is the 510 grounded to?

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MikeTheVapeDude said:

I'm putting on my combat boots and going in. I'm going to take a drill bit and size it up to where it's just SLIGHTLY larger than the actual 510 inside the cup, gut the box, safely, and just drill RIGHT through this thing, the whole 510, threads and all, pin too, will be replaced by a hole. I am then going to take a FD V4 Low Profile short and slide it into this hole and secure it with a nut and loctite super glue, if I'm correct, the V4 LP Short is 1mm, the same size if not ever so slightly bigger than the space the 510 cup is, will flush fit down into it, and it's 22mm to 22mm. Then Rewire the 510, ground it out and.. yeah.

Anybody wanna stop me if this is a horrible idea? Or give me an alternative. I'm not doing it until someone who's had an up-close look at the guts of this box already tells me if it's possible, so.


EDIT: Took it apart, looks fairly simple. What is the 510 grounded to?

Mike, pictures?(:
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So could I run a ground wire off the new 510 and solder it in? To the box I suppose. Or would it automatically ground to the remnants of the old 510? I'll post pictures if I do this and it works, for sure. I'm all for helping others, I just hate to rush in blind, especially if my chances are slim.

 

THE PLAN:

Take a drill and completely drill through the 510. Not the entire cup, the part where the indents raise up and are slotted, the threads and the pin. Turn that entire area from a 510 to a hole.

Insert FD F4 LP Short into hole, insert ground ring (if needed) and nut, further secure with loctite super glue.

Solder the same wire used in the stock box to the new 510 pin, and if needed ground it out (need help on if and how if so I need to do this.)

Profit. (Kidding)

Then hopefully it's all good in the hood.

Please, if there's holes in my plan, or anyone has concerns, let me know. I'm not attempting anything until I get some feedback.


BACKUP PLAN:

Gut box and put parts in new box. Really, REALLY would love to avoid doing this but, whatever I have to do. I love this chip too much to miss out because of a bad box it's contained in, and I'm too cheap to go spend $200+ on a new one.

If there's anyway to remove the 510 entirely on this box, that's also viable and I'd love to do that if possible.

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blueridgedog said:

It should ground to the metal case as well as the old one. 



So I take it this is not a reckless and/or stupid plan? This is actually okay?

I'm probably going to sand the very edges of the LP down so it'll snugly fit down past the edges of the stock 510 cup.


Like I said, if there's anyway to remove the entire 510, I'm all for it.
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MikeTheVapeDude said:

[QUOTE=blueridgedog]It should ground to the metal case as well as the old one. 



So I take it this is not a reckless and/or stupid plan? This is actually okay?

I'm probably going to sand the very edges of the LP down so it'll snugly fit down past the edges of the stock 510 cup.


Like I said, if there's anyway to remove the entire 510, I'm all for it.[/QUOTE] Why don't u drill the 510 center and tap that to the fdv 510 thread size.
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