QuietStakcs Posted January 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Everyone seems to love SS in temp control but im having so many problems. Please share any information you think could help me or any experiences you have had with SS/316LI own an evic vtc mini version 3.00 and i have on it a 0.2ohm SS316L triple parallel coil in my herakles plus subohm tank. i did lock the resistance in tc mode while the coil and the device were at room temperature. also i have the tcr set to 92 for my ss316l coil (im using TCR M1 function) and all my connections are good. when i fire the device i get vapor but my temp control rarely reaches 375 deg F. and my atomizer is actually very hot. i know that SS takes longer to heat up but my device wont go over 380 deg F.I experienced problems with SS in temp control before with the crown tank at 0.25ohms.from all the research iv done i think SS works best at 0.5ohms and up (ex.0.6, 0.7...) i think that most boards have issues with SS. for example, the TCR for SS316L is 0.0092 and that it is too small of a value for the board to calculate.Does anyone agree that most boards... even the DNA has trouble with SS?Everyone seems to love SS in temp control but im having so many problems. Please share any information you think could help me or any experiences you have had with SS/316L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugeEgo Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Are you using stock Herakles heads or an RBA with your own wire? If it's the former, then it's probable that the wire they are using in the herakles is not really 316L. I know I've experienced this with Joyetech "316" stock heads. They are closer to 304 grade than they are 316. I suspect these Chinese companies are using the cheaper 304 wire and simply calling it "316" when it's not. Try a TCR of about .001016 and see if that improves it (that's the TCR of 304). There's nothing wrong with using titanium coils, which are much more accurate due to the higher TCR. Set your mod at 0.00366 and vape on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuietStakcs Posted January 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 @HugeEgo they are Stock herakles plus coil heads. i will definitely try the TCR for 304. I think I will go back to titanium, but for now all i have are these SS coil heads for the herakles plus so thats all i have to work with. thank youAnd please anyone with suggestions for SS please share Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WranglerJackson Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Hey man, I'm glad you posted this. I just got the cubis and was excited to try out TC with stainless steel. I made a separate profile for the ss316 coilheads that the cubis comes with. It says right on the coilhead "ss 316". I uploaded the correct .csv file from steamengine to my DNA. Had the watts set to 200 and temp at 420 (how I like it on nickel) and it spit out this piddly puff of vapor and didn't do much after that. It simply would not hear up enough to get any vapor. I messed with the temp and watts, still nothing. I don't know if it's the .csv file or of joy tech really doesn't use 316Ss. When I turned the DNA over to nickel mode, it BURNED my damn coil and cotton. This spoiled my experience with SS wire AND joytech's god damn coils. If any one has anything that could help, please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 There are two or three threads here that have a lot of good info about stainless steel. Here is one; https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66385-topic/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black lace Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 I cant say im taken by it, but i cant prove that what i purchased was what was on the spool, best advice i would give is when buying wire , buy off a reputable bonefid supplyer and stick with them.. cheap wire will mean cheap wire.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mactavish Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 Indeed, the Cubis Stainlees Steel "316" prebuilt coils work ok on an Eleaf Pico and Evic VTC Mini, in their own SS preset, but NO vapor when used at the known TCR of 0092. Same behavior on my DNA200. Using a TCR of 0102, gets close to their SS preset. Therefore we can deduce that the coils are NOT 316 SS, and the higher TCR matches more closely that of SS 304. This kind of false product information on things we breath should not be tolerated at all. I have written them, with no response. Another reason to build your own coils, but using prebuilts is convenient at times and should be a viable option! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrodieTheDog Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 I'm loving SS 316L. I like using nice spaced coils on most of my RDA's and a couple RTA's and I have zero issues on the DNA 200. On the other hand, when I have used prebuilt so called ss 316 coils. I've had nothing but problems. My personal opinion would be to do away with prebuilt anything and build coils the way you like them. It's not that complicated. If you are technical enough to use escribe you can figure out coil building. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwcraig1 Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 Not many folks talking about SS 430, perhaps cause they have no problems with it. If only it was easy to get in 24 and 26 gauge. I twist my 28 gauge to mimic 26. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingsfan0310 Posted April 10, 2016 Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 I switched over to SS 430 a while back and haven't looked back. It's TCR is ~50% higher than that of 316L. I've had no problems whatsoever with using SS430 in TC on my DNA200's (imo SS 316L can be finicky in TC because of it's low TCR).As for the Crown coils, it's my understanding they have Nickel legs on the SS coils so it throws TC off (I don't have a Crown). People seem to get better results using the SS304 TCR/curve with the Crown.Cheers,Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CptSmoke Posted April 10, 2016 Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 Just order 200ft of the SS430 28 gauge ( no nickel ). Let the games begin haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inkitatus Posted April 10, 2016 Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 Ive been vaping TC SS for a while on a variety of wires on a wide variety of set ups for quite a while,Im fortunate to work a vape shop What are we after from in a vape? the healthiest possible without actually quitting,or the most satisfying-whatever that may be,lol...? MODS- The joytech is not very accurate & harsh but easy to use,sx ml class is accurate (or at least consistent with other devices) easy to use but a bit harsh, the DNA200 is accurate smooth but cuts out a bit strongly & is a tad too sensitive & finicky,the Dicodes is my preference so far (26650 mod,called No.??) a tricky sod to suss initially,but accurate & very smooth with undetectable throttling off. wires Easiest is 304,because its the most mass produced Chinese wire so comes by default is the wire the majority of these chips/boards were built using. 316/7/L are much the same,not particularly more durable or better than anything else. 430 (Ni free) seems ok so far but like everything can be awkward to get dialed in,& health benefits over other metals could be questionable anyway. Personally I think the "safest" is probably TC ceramic coils,with whatever metal is the most accurate & durable at its core. Ive only tries a few puffs on a customers altus,& it vaped nicely but needed lots of battery sapping power & had aeons of ramp up. Ive not jumped on board yet as i use drippers pretty much exclusively 'coz I pg intollerent (chickenpox buggered my allergy system in 2013- wheat,gluten,PG,carrots,dairy etc,lol) though i dont class myself as a cloud chaser,i am a lung hitter at around 200*C This is only my experience,YMMV ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akatazmanian Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 QuietStakcs said:Everyone seems to love SS in temp control but im having so many problems. Please share any information you think could help me or any experiences you have had with SS/316LI own an evic vtc mini version 3.00 and i have on it a 0.2ohm SS316L triple parallel coil in my herakles plus subohm tank. i did lock the resistance in tc mode while the coil and the device were at room temperature. also i have the tcr set to 92 for my ss316l coil (im using TCR M1 function) and all my connections are good. when i fire the device i get vapor but my temp control rarely reaches 375 deg F. and my atomizer is actually very hot. i know that SS takes longer to heat up but my device wont go over 380 deg F.I experienced problems with SS in temp control before with the crown tank at 0.25ohms.from all the research iv done i think SS works best at 0.5ohms and up (ex.0.6, 0.7...) i think that most boards have issues with SS. for example, the TCR for SS316L is 0.0092 and that it is too small of a value for the board to calculate.Does anyone agree that most boards... even the DNA has trouble with SS?Everyone seems to love SS in temp control but im having so many problems. Please share any information you think could help me or any experiences you have had with SS/316LI am using UD 316L SS the one very important thing I discovered is that especially when using SS The wraps for the coils need to have their spacing between each wrap of the coil set to at least the spacing of the thickness of the wire. If not the temp control does not work as well. I am using the tcr for 316 that comes stock in the newest update of Escribe. I vape with a Kangertech Subtank Mini which has a very small deck. The coil that works best for me on the sub tank with 316L is a 3mm inside diameter with 4 1/2 wraps. The ohms resistance is 0.20. This works very well with temp control and produces tons of flavor and vapor with the temp control set at about 470 to 490 degrees. If the wraps are too close together or too many wraps it is way too hot. The csv for stainless steel is really flat very unlike NI200 this is why you need to space the wraps very well and use fewer wraps with a larger inside diameter. Doing this works very well but make sure the wraps of the coil do not touch each other at all. Also remember I only use 4 1/2 wraps for the Subtank Mini and they are spaced apart from each other at least the thickness of 24 gauge wire which is the gauge I use. I find that the tcr is just too flat to use more wraps of duel coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jentz9517 Posted May 31, 2016 Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 ya that ss430 is springy as hell. comes pretty dirty too. I will have to revisit .. I am having good luck with mkws 316 and 316l clapton I get no weird taste like the UD. I also have to run jaquiths v3.25 for UD since it sputters so bad.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwcraig1 Posted May 31, 2016 Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 My ss430 is from Unkamen, I torch it prior to wrapping, it then becomes quite Kanthal-ishHere's a live view of one that I did a couple of hours ago that I'm still "working" with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black lace Posted May 31, 2016 Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 When you say torch it. do you mean to a cherry red like annealing kanthal or just a quick blast to blue it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwcraig1 Posted May 31, 2016 Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 Red, I do the same to all but Ti Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black lace Posted May 31, 2016 Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 Ok cheers .. will have a bash.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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