Wingsfan0310

Are you on a SS316L profile. Do you have the correct coil material selected (SS316L)? Cheers, Steve

Thanks for the update, It has really smoothed out TC on SS316L and 317L. My question is with the regs taking effect: Are you still going to be able to release firmware updates? I do believe that's the $64,000 question! Cheers, Steve

Aromamizer Supreme and Billow V3 Plus now. Some of the new 25mm RTA's are really outstanding tanks. Big build decks, lots of capacity, great flavor, and a ton of vapor. Cheers, Steve

I've been using that same wire for awhile now and like you it's basically shelved all my other wire. I'm very happy with the results I'm getting using it. Cheers, Steve

I switched over to SS 430 a while back and haven't looked back. It's TCR is ~50% higher than that of 316L. I've had no problems whatsoever with using SS430 in TC on my DNA200's (imo SS 316L can be finicky in TC because of it's low TCR). As for the Crown coils, it's my understanding they have Nickel legs on the SS coils so it throws TC off (I don't have a Crown). People seem to get better results using the SS304 TCR/curve with the Crown. Cheers, Steve

I have both colors of Lavaboxes as well as a Black VT200. I prefer the Lavaboxes (my favorite DNA200 atm is the Blood Red Lavabox), it is less slippery than the VT200 with the rubber grips but then again I've never had the VT200 slip out of my hand. I would say with stock batteries, the VT200 gets slightly better battery life but I think with the extended battery option (3s 1300mah) for the Lavabox that would definitely be different. The VT200 is supposedly 3s 1300mah but mine is a 3s 1000-1100mah in reality. The stock Lavabox is 3s 900mah. Here's a couple of pictures of my DNA200 stable. (L to R) Black Lavabox, Blood Red Lavabox (both stock 3s 900mah Lipo), Reuleaux, Hcigar VT200, Hotcig DX200 (with the 2 x 18650 battery compartment)

I don't know what you are trying to say here. The maximum input of the board is 24 amps. A 30 amp CDR 18650 is rated at 6 amps over maximum input. The 50/55 amp output has nothing to do with the input being drawn from the batteries.

So far from reading what a couple people that have it are saying on other forums. They don't seem to really like it (not hate, but not loving it either). The juice capacity also seems on the low side. Seems a little gimmicky to me (usually the kiss of death imo). I think waiting a bit for more people to get it and give their impressions would be a prudent move. YMMV PS Lots of new tanks on the horizon and I think I'll wait to see how they all shake out. Cheers, Steve

The setting is in the mod tad under Battery Type. One of the choices is Power Supply.

I'm wondering that myself after this thread. I know my Hotcig DX200 when using the 2 x 18650 battery compartment doesn't so I'm very, very careful when inserting my batteries. Measure twice, cut once or buy spare fuses as the saying goes . I'm just messing around, but I am curious as well. Cheers, Steve

Since Power = Resistance x current^2 the most you will be able to get out of 50 amps output with a .05 ohm load is 125 watts (you said low ohm Claptons, to me .05 is low ohm). Do you think a 2 x 18650 is going to be outputting more than 50 amps? Some of these companies coming out with 2 x 18650 mods claiming 200 watts and above have no shame when it comes to marketing or over promising and under delivering. When you think about it, most credible companies cap there single 18650 mods at 75 watts. With double the power source available the output capability doubles not triples or more. If these mods could actually produce what they claim it would be with a very limited resistance range for a puff or 2 then the bottom falls out from there. These boards aren't magic, they don't create power, they step up or down voltage and do the inverse with the current minus the boards inefficiency (no board is 100% efficient, but the DNA200 is one the most efficient, if not the most I know of). Cheers, Steve

Sounds like you either have a bad screen or the screen cable isn't inserted all the way into the board socket. That's all I can think of atm. Wish I could be of more help! Good luck Cheers, Steve

Make sure it's not in stealth mode. You check by clicking the fire button 5 times quickly to lock it. Then hold down the fire button and - button at the same time. Cheers, Steve Edit If it's in stealth it will say stealth, continue holding the buttons down until it says normal. Then click the fire button 5 times to unlock it.

I'll definitely look into ordering the V2. Thanks VapingBad for passing along that information! Cheers, Steve

The Billow V2 and UD Bellus can also be rebuilt without the tank being empty. Probably other tanks as well that I'm not aware of. The airflow control band (why they went with that I'll never understand) has always stood in the way of me ordering an Aromamizer. Cheers, Steve

Those have always been the only 2 battery choices (along with power supply). You want to select Lipo as they are also 3.7v nominal, 4.2v fully charged. By the way I have a Hotcig DX200 using the 2 x 18650 battery compartment. I'm running the newest test firmware and it's working just fine. Cheers, Steve Edit I can think of 2 possibilities 1. The firmware upgrade didn't fully finish. That can be fixed by forcing a firmware upgrade in Escribe 2. Inserting the batteries in the incorrect polarity, thus blowing the on-board fuse. I thought the VT133 was supposed to have reverse battery protection built in, but since I don't own one (I have the VT200) I have no way of knowing for sure.

I use Billow V2's and Bellus's with good results. Nice amount of flavor and vapor. I've yet to use a Griffin or Aromamizer so I can't say how they compare. Cheers, Steve

Is the device monitor on Escribe showing all three cells at 0V? I've never encountered a blown fuse so I'm not sure what would happen but it's my understanding the fuse disconnects all batteries from the board. I wonder if the ground screw could just need tightening? It's the screw in the battery tray behind the white foam plug. Cheers, Steve

It could be something as simple as cell 1 isn't making contact with the positive battery post. Those mechanical reverse polarity rings some time makes connections problematic. Try moving the batteries around or using a different set to see if that helps. Cheers, Steve

I get the feeling they are using that tank as a way to force people to purchase one of their mods that support it. I'm not so sure they will be forthcoming with a TCR for it. Seems kinda bush-league to me. I also have my doubts about the heating element lasting 3 months, especially considering in the instructions it says "Must not be dry burned". I can only imagine how gunked up the heating element would be after a week or so, let alone 3 months. Cheers, Steve

No kidding Black Lace, iirc there have been 3-4 updates in the last month. It's hard to keep up lol Cheers, Steve

A couple of things that should help: 1. If you are using .022 as your Mod Resistance, that is way too high and it's throwing off your TC. Mod resistance should be around .004 - almost 6 times less than what you are using. I have no idea why he would post such a ridiculous number. 2. You are talking about cotton burning at 480F which is true, but that is bone dry cotton. That's just a test you can use to make sure your mods TC isn't running too hot. In other words you put in dry cotton, set it to 400F and fire, if your cotton burns your TC is off. In real world experience the cotton is always at least damp/moist and your vapor will tail off way before your cotton would ever burn (because it won't be bone dry). Your mixing up a test for bone dry cotton with what will happen once it's moist or wet. 3. You are using an old firmware. Go to this thread to update to the newest firmware. /topic/66731-topic/ It's in the first post. The newest firmware (2016-29-02 Escribe 1.0.42) should take care of your errors. Cheers, Steve Edit When trying to add a Temperature curve, make sure it has a .csv file extension. If the file extension is .txt it won't work - it has to be changed to .csv

Here are a few different Wismec screens to choose from: Download the ones you like to your PC (make note of where you have saved them to). Hook up your Reuleaux to Escribe and select the theme tab. Find the secondary welcome screen slot and click on load. Navigate to where you saved the Wismec screen on your PC and click on it then click on open. Finally click on Upload Settings to Device tab at the top of Escribe. Now you will be able to change any screens you want. Cheers, Steve PS Black and White custom screens give the best results since the screen is monochrome. Heck download them all and try each one until you find the one you like best!

Hi James, Is this something all us early adopters should try or just people that had that specific problem? I'm only asking because I noticed the first post isn't updated with this version yet. Thanks, Steve

This is just a guess on my part. Manfred (kickman) said he is from Austria. Could it be a problem in the language of the PC not being English? I'm not sure if I'm saying this correct but I seem to remember someone having to switch the language to English for a problem they were having. Just a guess and I could be out in left field on this guess. I'm in the USA and haven't had any issues updating (but I'm also on a PC using Windows 10) Cheers, Steve