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First build - is this possible? (DNA>toggle (on-on-on)>three 510 connectors)


shawngibson
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Hi everyone, first post.

Also my first electrical, and first mod, DIY.

I suppose, to cut to the point immediately: I'd like to be able to trigger one of three atomizers, individually, using a toggle switch and a single battery (and hopefully a single DNA board). Simplified to the best of my abilities, I mean:

Battery (fire button) - switch <- (510 | 510 | 510)

...where <- means left, middle, or right 510 connector is on, while the other two are off.

In other words:

purely mechanical (no DNA), I suppose that would mean:

(tank) (tank) (tank)
     \      |       /
      \     |      /
        (switch)             <[on-off-off] or [off-on-off] or [off-off-on]
            ^
     (fire button)
            ^
       (battery) 

Before I get into trying to do this with a DNA75 or DNA200, I guess I need to know if the basic setup (a battery with a switch that fires 1 of 3 atomizers, based on what position the toggle is in, is possible?

I realize I have a lot to learn, and I'm willing to put the hours in. 

But as a creative person who no longer smokes or drinks (I quit both at the same time last month) I really need to focus my energies, and I have a mod in my head that I would love to see built in reality.

Thanks for any help,
Shawn

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welcome to the forum shawngibson. so ultimately you want to be able to toggle between three different atty's from a single dna 75/200 board, correct? would all 3 510's be in the same box as the dna board? or are you thinking on having the board and toggle in one box with umbilical cords going to 3 separate boxes that contain the 510 and fire button? keep in mind 3 separate boxes mean a long length of 510 +/- wires. that will increase the mod resistance the longer the wires are. if you were able to keep almost everything in one box (board, 3 510's, toggle and fire button) leaving out the battery (gives you more room to work with and the batt can be in a separate box as long as the wire gauge is thick enough between board and batt holder.) i'd say that would be the best route. less of a chance with resistance reading problems. 

depending how low you build and whether it's a series or 3.7v setup, the switch and toggle for your mech version would need to be able to handle high current demands or you would need to add mosfets in the circuit,

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Thanks so much, Chunky. I'll PM you in the morning when I wake up. I haven't thought about the enclosure yet, I just want all of the parts to work, then I'll think of the externals.

I'd definitely love your help, since I am an electrical newb. On that note, at 47 years old with a full-time job, I want to go back to college to learn about electricity, milling machines and lathes.

I've found an awesome hobby here, my brain is going a million miles an hour. Time to learn:)
Shawn 

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i'm the type of guy who pulls the car over if something "electronically worth while" catches my eye on the side of the road, lol. can never have enough circuit boards/power supplies from.....anything!
some important info was brought to my attention regarding your setup. you realize if you're going to have 3 - 510 connectors connected to 1 dna board, you'll have an issue if you intend to use temp control builds. as in, switching from one to the next, hot and cold atty's, different wire types...... there is a work around tho.

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Thanks guys.

Chunky, I don't expect to be doing temp builds. I eventually want to make a 3-atomizer mechanical mod (I am hoping I can use three Kick 2's?). But as I am new to all of this, I'd prefer to start building mods which are regulated, hence the DNA.

Would this sort of switch meet the electrical/functionality requirements?

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Road-Position-Toggle-Switch/dp/B00E1JNAC6/ref=sr_1_45?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1473520697&sr=1-45&keywords=on-on-on+switch

Spiro - Does "having a lot more resistance with the contacts in the switch" mean, for example, that a 1 ohm coil will no longer function as such? If so, how can I compensate?

Thanks guys, I'm really looking forward to this!
Shawn


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The added resistance for the switch would mainly affect temperature control. If the switch and wiring added 10 milliohms that is nothing for wattage mode but in TC mode it could be hard to compensate for because the resistance might change every time you flip the switch. 

That switch you pointed out won't work. For a toggle you will need a DPDT on-on-on  Switches2_Diag_6.png 

You could also use a SP3T rotary switch, much like Phil B "lazy box". 

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Understood. I need on-on-on. This one is 5 amps @ 125V AC. I think that would work? Much smaller, too...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Black-Bat-Lever-ON-ON-ON-DPDT-Mini-Toggle-Switch-Guitar-Bass-EP-4180-003-/322224072463?hash=item4b060d270f:g:9tkAAOSwT5tWMv7B


PS, I don't think I've ever vaped beyond 35 Watts.

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Well when I worked in a lab (I am retired now) I use to have access to test equipment that I could test them. And you could push them way pass their specs most of the time. And without the equipment, I would try it and monitor the temperature and check for any voltage drop. For vaping, normally you would never draw more than 20 seconds tops. So even check for 20 seconds. No voltage drop nor any heat, I'd say you are good to go. Gee they want 10 bucks for those switches nowadays? Geez.

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Do you guys have any idea what the inside of a Chainsmoker Mod looks like? I'm thinking that starting with 2 of them for parts would be a good idea. I assume when you remove the wooden outer section, you probably end up with parts that you can turn into whatever shape you want...

Or is this just crazy talk lol?
Shawn

ps Bill, my draws range from 2 to 6 seconds. Any longer of a draw and I'd probably pass out lol.


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Thanks Retird. I think I've seen every decent video on the Chainsmoker...but none of them show someone taking it apart to show the guts:(

TX - definitely not something I'll carry around, more like a "leave at work" thing lol.

Guys, out of curiosity, is it possible to build a rotary dial that sets the wattage between 5 and 30 Watts, and another rotary that sets the voltage between 3.7 and 4.2 volts? I'd like to make a mechanical (i.e. non-pc board) setup, moreso out of curiosity on how it would be built than anything else...

Below 3.7 volts it doesn't fire, and it's hard-wired to stop at 4.2 volts.

Also hard-wired to never go beyond 30 Watts.

And of course, a 20 Amp fuse:)

How might that look without a circuit board?

Merci!
Shawn

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Hi guys, me again. This is the only switch I've found that will 'probably' work, according to the salesperson:

http://www.digikey.com/short/3h25b4

Also, my above post. Brainfart, obviously I only need something to control the voltage as the wattage is a function of that and the resistance, and apparently the math is volts(squared)/resistance=watts

It seems the OKR chip will do that:

http://findmyvapes.com/how-to-build-an-okr-box-mod-tutorial/

Shawn

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