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Laguz75 said:

I was looking it this and may get it https://www.adafruit.com/products/1829

I just used the micro usb port from the shark flask. I know that it will fit the shark flask so I'm going to stick with it. I had to trim it down a bit to fit the dna200. It works and still connects to escribe

20150827_080411.jpg

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scoopy said:

Does that have 2a charging

I wish. The vs vf charging board is about two inches long and the dna200 won't fit. Two boards actually. I just cut it to size to just use the socket and extend the dna200s micro usb. The board fits in the slots perfectly and won't wiggle wobble which is why I salvaged it.

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Do u have the 200 in the flask? OK I see the pic now I thought u were using the flask charge board with the 200 in a different mod at first

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scoopy said:

Do u have the 200 in the flask? OK I see the pic now I thought u were using the flask charge board with the 200 in a different mod at first

It's a work in progress. Having to extend the usb and screen cables.

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I always wished they would make a flask with a 200 in it......no room at all to work with and still keep the same form factor though....keep us posted. ...anxious to see how ur setup turns out

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Willy said:

Laguz75,

Take a look at this Hakko clone from Hobby King, (some links below) I got one recently and I'm very impressed with how well it works, cost me $25 shipped to New York from their North East USA warehouse. I picked up some more tips in assorted sizes, it comes with a very fine tip which would be great for those zif's, but you'll need a larger tip for wire 20 ga and above, you can get tips from amazon. Also there is a link to a youtube video showing side by side comparison to this station and a real Hakko, the guy opens the box and shows the insides of both of them. I was quite surprised just how heavy the unit is and it looks like they made a couple improvements since that video. The temperature control is very accurate, I checked it against my Fluke meter with a Fluke thermocouple, I didn't have to adjust mine but there is an adjustment for the temp if needed. For the price, it's a pretty good station and works very well, I soldered some 12 ga wires to a 200 board and the 510 a couple days ago and had no problems getting a very impressive solder joint, key was a larger tip that wouldn't cool as soon as it touched the joint, and good no clean flux. 

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=19240

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KYVV9DM

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQARTRQ

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TP0etU7mTwU[/video]

I broke down and bought a avg priced solder station http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko/FX888D-23BY-Kit3/Soldering-Equipment/ also got some kester lead solder paste and some flux pens going to try to do a better job on the connectors this weekend, I figure if I can solder the connectors with a crappy iron I should be able to do a professional job with my new iron (I hope :-) )

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iandvaypes said:

Finally got mine to work. I decided against the connecter this time.



So if I understand this correctly you were able to solder a screen to a .05mm pitch cable and extend the display on a DNA200 but by soldering directly to the contacts you need to have a reverse or opposite side contact cable to make it work with the zif connector on the board.  Can you confirm this assumption on my part.

I believe I found a correct cable on digikey http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=150200084 to accomplish this for $5.83ea w/ about $4.00 shipping.

While I have no idea of the quality but these are available on ebay much more economically: http://www.ebay.com/itm/25pcs-Reverse-Direction-8-Pin-0-5mm-Pitch-FPC-Flexible-Ribbon-Cable-Wire-0-66ft-/161775574752?hash=item25aa935ee0 .  I've asked the seller for more information and pics of the cable ends but have not heard back yet.
cable_end_1.jpg 

Do you have any more input for those of us looking to follow in your footsteps?  What cable did you use (link) and what was your procedure for soldering that joint? Did you just flux the hell out of it and drag your iron down the ribbon contacts to tin them on both the extension and the display then line them up & heat up the display side using a wide tipped iron & a lot of pressure just like you were soldering a new display to the older small screen dna40?
dna200_screen_extension_1.png 
dna200_screen_extension_2.png 

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You can install the cable in ether direction if you look at the past posts you can see that I used a connector on mine but i tried soldering a screen to the cable like iandvaypes and it is easiesr. Here's a pic of the connector which is the same on the board you can see it makes contact if you put the cable in ether direction

image.jpg

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Laguz75 said:

You can install the cable in ether direction if you look at the past posts you can see that I used a connector on mine but i tried soldering a screen to the cable like iandvaypes and it is easiesr. Here's a pic of the connector which is the same on the board you can see it makes contact if you put the cable in ether direction


Appreciate the reply.  So if I understand this correctly, it is easier to solder the display on, less time consuming (as I don't have to waste my time trying to divine where to get this connector its part number or if I even have the right one) and cheaper (because I don't have to buy it in the first place).  Seems like it is just unnecessary unless you want the ability to swap displays easily.  Hoping I wouldn't have to do that too often

Any advice on methods of or techniques for successfully tinning the traces & soldering it together?  Did you buy your cables without stiffeners & insulation at the ends or did you strip them manually?  Where did you pick up your cables?  Links?

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The links are in the pasted posts. As far as a technique I've had very little solder on and swiped it a crossed quick slowly building it up and lots of flux. You will need to buy extra cable and screens unless you get lucky on the first try

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Laguz75 said:

The links are in the pasted posts. As far as a technique I've had very little solder on and swiped it a crossed quick slowly building it up and lots of flux. You will need to buy extra cable and screens unless you get lucky on the first try


they were the links in Mundy's post then?  Thanks for your help.

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Yup they are. I have cut the ribbon and soldered the screen on and shaved the plastic off the top to connect it to the board it was pretty loose I have some kapton ordered, I think that will help thicken it up some.

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Badazz Vapor said:

got one soldered and working, then i placed the screen onnthe desired postion and it's dead again.

positioning the screen into the final spot killed it huh? completely or can you get it to at least flicker if you wiggle, tap, etc your solder joint between the screen ribbon and extension? zif socket connection wonky?

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Run a dull knife between the strips should help with any solder bridging that you can't see. From left to right #5 and #6 strip looks like it could be touching

image.jpg

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So now i tryed soldering the ribbon wire ten times to the screen. I got it working two times. As i wrote above once i put the screen in place and it didn't work any more. Then today i got one working again wile i had it in the right position, i was trilled and tought i nailed it but after a few minutes the screen started flickering then it froze and stopped working again. I'm getting frustraded and i've been thinking to kick the dna200 in the bin. It's the last thing i have to clear. The soldering doesn't seem to be the problem but the zif connection on the board somehow.

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MagMod51 said:

Where are you guys getting the wire for the extension

its the 7th post in this thread http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=98266-0083virtualkey98266-0083virtualkey538-98266-0083

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