alee132

Actually yes because mamu herself made the same faceplate that uses the same looking buttons as reference case now. Here is a link http://www.shapeways.com/product/8FDTBB3NZ/dna200-v2-faceplate-screen-holder-buttons?li=search-results-1&optionId=57829490 She also has one that doesnt come with buttons. That way you can use the option that she posted for differed colored seperate buttons or the metal printed button option which is only another $10-12. I have used the previous faceplate and this one looks even better. Looks to same dimesions as before and comes with same great screen holder.

Mod crate has the reference case buttons in stainless steel for $7 for the set of 3. I am guessing they are the same size as the original reference case as well. Also they are going to be doing mamu 3D printed faceplates, flushed mounted into there cnc cases with flushed mounted 510 as well. So it's going to be good kit for some modders and you won't have to make cuts plus the cuts they are making are more precision then I am capable of doing with the tools I got.

Honestly the picture must not do it justice because it looks like a bad spray paint job. Sometimes pictures just make things look a lot different though.

I got mine in today from modcrate. There 1590A version is great. Like you said the lid is like press fit but I still got the magnets for it coming. I also got a mamu faceplate with metal buttons and a boxer faceplate but not sure which I will use yet. Unfortunately I have only drill/dremmel/file to work with for making the rectangular hole for faceplate. I am going to take my sweet time with it and get it perfected this time.

Great now hopefully the cost can stay lower than if you wanted to buy a prebuilt mod or any other production mod.

[QUOTE=Brandon][QUOTE=digatel]Quote: John, how will I know when these are ready? I live in Sandusky, Ohio (Cedar Point), so I will gladly drive to you to pick one of these up when the time comes![/QUOTE] Soon, very soon.[/QUOTE] Are you going to do kits with everything at reduced price and or just case/buttons/510/etc without chip/battery? Also are there going to be put already put together ones by you?

Is it just me or is screen crooked? If so that would drive me insane. I mean as a modder I could most likely fix something like that myself but also as a modder I wouldn't buy a premade box unless somehow it was just so nice compared to anything I could build or it was just cheaper than building your own but still good.

ya i knew about those since they went up as i check shapways daily for new dna200 stuff but i really dont want them. I really want something with metal threads so i can open and swap batteries on regular so I dont have to charge USB slowly. I have nice lipo balance charger.

Would putting a sealant like some I do with 3D printing like polyurethane spray, basically a clear protective coating or clearcoat of some kind work? That way u dont get scratches. Also depending on how u want it to look can get matte, semi gloss, or gloss. I usually do matte because i like it to look more like natural material than a fake shine on top. And at least i have read that polyurethane works on metal but I havent tried it but if it sticks to plastic it should work on metal just fine. http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7870830-Polyurethane-Spray-11-25-Ounce/dp/B000PB3KV0

That's what I figured but just wanted to make sure.

Well I was looking into these mods and noticed that they had a 1800mah battery, I was interested to see what kinda battery they had that was that big inside the size mod they were claiming it was. It just seemed to good to be true. So I asked some questions and found out they were using a brand called Lion Power out of china, the battery say's its 1800mah. They claim it's a custom battery that they are getting. And maybe it's just a different sticker thrown on a already made battery. I looked up to see if a 1800mah battery was available from lion power in a 3s, I found nothing. I did find a bunch of 1500 at the same exact size as the supposedly 1800mah battery. Look at the pictures and the sizes of the battery's. I am not an expert but do you think they were able to maybe make the same exact sized battery somehow have an extra 300mah somehow. I guess it's possible but if so why don't they sell it normally if they have such great size/capacity batteries sitting around . 1500mah or 1800mah which is the real number?

Why not have a option for 18650 batteries? Currently if you use 18650's you just select lithium polymer and can choose between 3 or 2 cells. But there should be a section for 18650's even if it doesn't change anything function wise. It just makes things less confusing and more straightforward. Also if you do that, you could have it change to a default graph of a popular 18650 and at least it would be somewhat closer than a lipo graph. Or you could include some CVS files of some of the most common 18650's such as samsung 25's/sony vtc4's, 5s, and or lg he2, 4's, etc. I know the chip probably cannot tell the difference but just to be less confusing in the app I think it would help out. Just some food for thought. It's not really confusing me but I can see how some would be at a loss as to which option is for 18650's. Also were is the 18650 add on boards you were talking about a while back. I know its still early but now that there are options for 2/3 cells maybe you can make it so you have one for each or easy enough to take the one for 3 and use it for 2. Anyways I don't even use 18650's with the dna200 but it's just something I was thinking about the other day.

Hey thanks, I appreciate it. I'll definitely post pictures when I'm finished. I wish I had a CNC machine too! This was all done on a well worn manual Bridgeport mill. Started as a 2"x 4" block and took me 6 hours to mill. Well in that case I give you even more props. Ya, you did a great job of doing it manually. I would personally probably be better at doing that way versus trying to do the cad drawing as I have no idea how to do that. So I would do better on that kind of mill most likely.

Honestly they take a while. The battery analyzer drains the battery all the way down from full so it takes along time. The other one you need 1/2- 1/4 full battery and it charges it and tests how it heats up, etc and poplulates the numbers for you. Which I am uncertain of how if any way that affects your mods preformance but there must be some reasoning behind doing it. Both take hours iirc. If you have another mod at least which most of us do, just use it while you run both tests. It's worth it and they don't take that long. If I did mine right anyways that is. I think it worked because my numbers are right were they should have been.

I don't know if I did this correctly but it gave me similar results to what I thought I should be getting with my battery. I just put on my velocity RDA with a .3 kanthal build in normal mode @ 40 watts without any cotton or juice, then ran the test. Now I am hearing people say you should use a resister block but I don't see why this wouldn't work if it's providing a working resistance. Here is screen shot of it my results. I also had ran the case analyzer as well. Are those results good or normal? Also my battery is a 950mah 3s turnigy nano-tech 25c. .

I thought USB 3.0 used a completely different cable that won't fit into the chip. I know USB 3.0 is backwards compatible but I don't think you can use true USB 3.0 with this chip unless I am missing something.

John I wanted you to know that when the message showed up my ohm's where so unstable using nickel wire that the ohms where going from .15 to .02 and every where in-between. And my build was checked out at .15 on my ohms meter. I have stopped using nickel wire and have been using kanthal all day chain vaping it and ohms and every other thing stable. No more message....No more freaky screen freak outs either. You can see by the picture you can only read half the warranty message that wasn't a picture reflection that was part of the screen freak out I am talking about. But all that is gone now too. So again James thanks for the new FW.[/QUOTE] I would try nickle wire and see if it's still unstable, but make sure it's not just the atomizer because some aren't very stable with nickle. If it's still unstable with nickle wire there could be an issue I would think and that's why it was showing such messages. Maybe the firmware fixed all of it for you. This chip really shines with temp control imo.

I have registered and logged in but my question is what exactly does that do for me? I cannot see any effect on escribe at all once I login honestly. I went to my account and it took me to a web page, were I could put in my name and a website, also it has a serial number checker which I used, it told me how many times it was checked and when the board was made (also shows this in escribe iirc) Also does registering and logging in help you guys in some way by providing information to you such as registering a boards s/n to a person?

That's klapton tape? It looks good. I usually put a .03 clear piece of plexi type stuff I got from RC shop. It is the thinnest stuff I could find, most is way to thick but it protects the screen. Only problem is with the mamu faceplate I have I didn't put it in as I didn't think it would work.

All I can say is wow! What a great job! This is my dream mod to make here. I wish I had the tools to make such quality mods. Unfortunately unless I pay ridiculous amounts of money to get them made for me, which isn't a option for single units as the price wouldn't make sense. Wish I had a friend in phoenix, AZ that had a cnc machine, etc. I did look into making my own cnc machine but even then the costs are too high to make sense for my personal modding. Love the carbon fiber cover! I cannot wait to see finished project! Please post more pics as you go along and when finished! Loving it so far! Very professional and if you wanted to you could charge more than $200 as it's way better than a vapor shark or hana or any of those mass produced boxes imo. This impressed me the most thus far and I hope it comes out great. I only make my own mods and I don't buy premade one's unless it's so nice I cannot help but buy it and even then only once did I buy a $200 mod.

Hope they are having you coat them or customers are going to be hating 3D printing once the dye starts wearing off them. That orange and black button one looks great!

Would love to see pics of whole box finished and internals, etc. This is epic, would love to see more! Great professional looking job done!

I for one cannot wait for this reference case. BTW does the turnigy nano-tech 950mah fit inside it with a xt30 connector? Anodized ? Sweet jesus that's sounding epic. I have been waiting on this for making a second mod. I have been tempted by some of the 3D printed mods. What would be even better is if you guys could make the same design but also make it in larger sizes with same design for larger lipo's eventually as that's what has been done on shapeways but would be epic in aluminum! I cannot wait to jump on this. Sadly I missed the ecf co op or I would have gotten a couple extra chips for that price.

Hey I in phoenix too. You guys do the 3D printed mods iirc correct?

Ya its just not sitting well with me that its as far off as it is on that one cell. I got a message from protovapor and they are sending me a replacement thankfully.