alee132

I had gone through the entire test for the second time because the first time I did it I had the door off. I figured this would be more accurate. Anyways, I went through the whole thing and at the end it saved the recording, displayed the results but then it had disconnected I guess because it showed the dna 200 connect pop up and when I hit connect it reuploaded the old thermal settings over what it should have changed to. I opened the recorded file to see if the correct settings are there. Of coarse it's just a bunch of data that needs to be turned into the settings but I find no place to use the CSV to get my settings from it. Being that it takes quite some time to run this test and I have the CSV file is there a way to get the settings from it somehow without running the super long test again. Also the results were much different from before. i just cannot remember the exact amounts. It would be nice if there isn't a way to load recorded test csv's that there would be in the future. Incase the settings get changed somehow someone could set them back with the recorded csv file.

I am not sure if this is the correct sub forum for this but I was wondering how one figures out what a certain mods resistance is. Like is something that case analyzer or battery analyzer figures out for you or is it something you can measure yourself? I built my own mod and I have run both battery analyzer and case analyzer and it's still at 0. I am guessing this is for the resistance each certain mod has as each has different wiring, material and 510, etc, so how would I figure this out or is it the best to just leave it alone?

Hmm, I never use any more than that amount of wattage. I set my preheat to 100-125 watts and wattage to 40-50 watts normally with RDA's and lower with RTA's. So basically this would give me more options in the amount of different lipo's I could use. Personally I don't need to use 18650's but maybe it's an option now with this update. But to fit 2 18650's with a battery tray makes the box bigger than with lipo's. Now if they are hardwired together than that's a different story but then you are stuck only charging them in the box which kinda takes away from the point of even using 18650's over lipo's. Plus I have been charging my lipo's externally and swapping between 2 on a rc lipo charger. So for me I prefer the lipo's.

So with the 2s firmware how would you charge or monitor the cells? I don't charge inbox anyways as I swap and charge batteries on rc lipo charger. I would love to have the option to use a 2s battery even if it limits the power to a lower amount. I wouldn't want to use anything but a lipo still though.

That's true and honestly I own both a sx350j mod and a dna200 now. I still use both but mainly use the dna200. I really don't need the auto rotate feature enough to justify them having to install another chip on the board just for that. I know the sx350j had it implemented easily because it already had that chip for the menu functions even though I turned it off as soon as they gave me the option. I still have and use a old sx350 60watt chip in a mod I made but even though it has up/down buttons they never gave us the feature to turn off the sensor which gets very annoying imo.

Why does my mod say kanthal limit 100 when I am not even on kanthal but in temp mode with ni200? Does the kanthal limit setting also apply for ni200 or any wire infact? If so that settings name is very misleading.

Here is mine. I think I might redo it as I did it too fast and made some minor overcuts for the faceplate hole, they are hard to see here because I filled in where it happened with black marker. I have another box I got just in case that happened. But now that I got this one together I can make it perfect the second time around. It was really hard to fit in the case and instead of taking off some of the inside of the plastic on the faceplate I took more out of the case which was a mistake. I am loving the dna200 though. It far surpasses my expectations after the dna 40. It seems to be more accurate. I also have 2 battery's. Turnigy 3s 950mah nano tech's. I use a lipo charger most of the time and just swap battery's as it's faster that way and I do it in a lipo charging bag. I also cycled them several times each by charging/discharging with the lipo charger. I have tried the usb charger which does a great job but the 1amp is just slow. Although you will get more cycles out of the battery's that way I believe. The battery's are only like $10 or so for these ones. I am also thinking about getting a second one eventually and using a 1590g/3D printed lid or faceplate and a maxamps 1850 3s battery. They seem to be best size I could find for the mah that will fit in the 1590g. Although maxamps are not cheap but can't beat em, most others are only 1300/1400 that will fit in the 1590g.

Wow dude now that is original and cool looking. What is that material? It looks like you made the enclosure by hand. Kinda has a steampunk look to it going on. Nice. Looks kinda wide though. Does it fit good in the hand? Could just look like its wide because no reference points.

I saw that on shapeways and thingiverse. That blueridge guy made it. What size lipo goes in it?

Thanks for showing this as well. I totally forgot I still have a varitube I never ended up using that I could use for this. Hopefully it will work out. I prefer the newer core type of the FDV but it's not going to fit in the core of the varitube one. I remember the varitube and FDV v3 were swappable core iirc. Thanks!

Great pictures. Well I think this makes me feel a little better about the battery. I don't mind doing some extra dremel work on the enclosure. Thanks for the pics again. It does look bigger than both of them for sure but it makes me think that maybe it actually is going to have the extra 150mah compared to the smaller 800mah maxamps one. I will stick with this. It looks like my 3D printed faceplate shipped a lot earlier than it was saying it would. It had estimated to ship the 15th but shipped yesterday so it shouldn't be too much longer before I have everything in hand ready to go. I already tested chip by plugging in screen, plugging usb to computer, screen works fine, then I updated the firmware.

Don't get too hung up on the capacity rating, they're mostly guesstimates. Some companies are more optimistic than others. [/QUOTE] I might even consider it if it was so crazy expensive really. Costs $33 and shipping vs the $10 and shipping of turnigy. I guess it would be close enough like you said but its just not worth it to me unless I absolutely have no other choice. Well I was looking at other batteries that might work that aren't quite as expensive. I found one called E-Flite EFLB8003SJ its E-flite 800mAh 3S 11.1v 20C which may be an issue because I know 25c would be barely enough but 20c might not be enough amps. But its supposed to be 70X25X19 which seems like it would fit. I also found a source for it in the US and for $20 shipped. I also found E-Flite Blade 200 SR X 800mAh 3S 11.1V 30C LiPo Battery 18AWG JST EFLB8003SJ30 which is also supposed to be the same exact dimensions as well but 30c and for a couple dollars more. But I don't know E-flite is a good brand or not and if like the turnigy they are actually what they say they are size wise once you get them in hand. I guess I will wait till I get my batteries and my faceplate before I go and spend anymore money and see how bad it's going to be. Because I do have a really good dremel and I have had to do similar case modifications in the past so I might just shave some case away if I can get away with it and save myself more money throw at this. Part of the point of building my own was to save money and if I end up buying 2 more batteries than I am getting into the area of why didn't I just buy a premade box like the opus.

Well if they were somehow was one available and didn't cost a small fortune it sure would help because it sounds like this build is going to be a fun now that I know I have the worst of the 3 batteries as far as fitting goes that were recommended. I am just glad mamu gave such detailed instructions on the build. It didn't say it was an issue on the PDF I had downloaded at first but I am guessing Mamu updated it since she found out it would fit but can take dremmel work. For me unless I find a battery source that's feasible before I get my shapeways print of the faceplate in. I am going to work with the turnigy 950 somehow. Because Max amps battery is crazy in price and the other option either was from I think Australia or japan for the fullymax

The FDV v3 is only about 10.5 if you aren't counting the part that sticks out above the mod and the v4 low profile short it 11.5 plus the part that sticks out where the wire is soldered onto plus the wire but I guess that part goes for both.

Here is a pic of the measurements of FDV connector's. I wouldn't mind getting one from Brandon but I don't know how to reach him at all.

I also tried to find someplace to buy the FullyMax 900mAh 30C batteries before I got the turnigy one's but I couldn't find anywhere in the USA to buy them at all.... Unless you know somewhere. I really don't want to drop to 800mah if I don't have too so I don't want to go with max amps battery if I can help it. Also I looked at he max amp ones but the price on those I found was crazy really. They are $33.99 plus shipping each. So out of the 3 your PDF said would fit I went with the one that I thought made those most sense. I will make it fit lol. I will figure it out but if I can find a 510 that's gonna help the situation more I will get it.

Well unfortunately I already have them being shipped. I don't want to waste my money on battery's I will never use and have to buy more. I got everything else here today in the mail. I also ordered the v4 FDV low profile short. It got here and I noticed it's not much shorter than the normal v4 low profile. I noticed from your picture it looks like you were using the v3 FDV which has an even shorter 510 inside the case. I wonder if once the battery's get here that I will be even able to use anything but a v3 FDV connector. I don't mind keeping the v4s I have for future projects but I just like moving away from the high profile v3s if I can help it. Do you think I can use the v4 with the 950 if I go ahead and offset the 510 to the side of the battery. So now I have the wrong battery which I was thinking was the right battery till now. Also I have a longer 510 then it shows as well. So if I just offset the 510 enough but not too much to were it overhangs off the edge at all obviously will that solve some of my problems with the 510 and battery I plan to use.

I got a couple of these exact turnigy 950s coming. I have had experience soldering these before with 2s packs so this wont be too hard. I just need to get correct heat shrink for them. Is 18g silicone wire good or would 16g be even better ? I am putting together this with a 1590a and your faceplate from shapeways so I knows its going to be a somewhat tight fit already but I want to be able to use 200w at least for preheat. Other than that i doubt i will go over 80w in tc mode if its even possible lol.

I am going to be using a 950 mah 3s 11.1 turnigy nano tech 25c in a 1590a with mamus faceplate. Just waiting on shapeways to ship faceplate.

I am trying to go through this training but I got stuck on theme/click the capture button. I noticed in some of them that the place where it wants you to click is actually off by a little but this one I just cannot get it to click the capture button at all. I tried all around the button. I even tried to drag the mouse all over the page to find where it turns into the hand to click correctly but I just cannot find it. Anyways I was able to get past the screen to the next one from the menu and I still get what it was I was supposed to do, so it's done its job but I just thought I would let you know in case others have the same problem.

Thanks for the quick reply. Either way thanks for the great work on this. If you can get it to where it has the option great, if not then its cool to. Just thanks for being on the ball about getting back on the issue and doing what you can about it.

Ah, very cool. Thats going to be great. Well with that it will be very nice alternative option. I checked his channel and it looks like he doesn't have it up yet. I am not going to bother him about it if he is already planning to do so. I am sure he will get to it and I give him props for his great works so far.

Thanks for the answer but that was the first thing I tried. While that does fullscreen the browser but doesnt actually increase video size much if any at all. I tried all the normal tricks f11 being one. I would like the actual video to go fullscreen so I can see details of whats going on better without having to see everything else around the video. Oh well I figured maybe there was something I missed. It looks like its done with flash. Im not sure if its possible without coding changes or sonething major. I will proceed to watch through and just try to push my non diagnosed OCD away lol. Again thanks to whoever put in all the time and effort. Its done very well and tons of great info. Sorry about gripping but its hardcoded into me.

I started to look through some of the training simulator but I could not for the life of me figure out how to zoom in or full screen the video's. I tried to zoom in with my browser but that didn't work. I tried several other tricks but none worked. I am having a hard time seeing everything clearly and my OCD went into overdrive so I just had to close out of it eventually. LoL. Is there a way to full screen the video's in the training that I am just somehow missing? Or is there no option to do this? If not, is there plans to do so or another way around this that anyone know's of. Like a way to play the video's in a different format or download them somehow and play in another player in full screen? OK, sorry if I seem like I am complaining. I am very grateful that you guys were able to put together something great like these forums and the tutorials and training. I hope people start to come to this forum for everything dna200 related instead of the other various forums so the info can be in one place mostly. It makes things easier for everyone imo. Cannot wait to get the chip in hand and get my first mod with this chip.

I agree with you there since its onboard and in my past experience the usb connectors can break off if your not careful.