BillW50
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Posts posted by BillW50
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You can turn off TC (temperature control) off manually as well. You just change the temperature as high as it can go and then press up one more and it will say off.
If you are in EScribe, you can setup a Profile for wattage too. You don't have to if you don't want to. You have to select something for a wire, but for a wattage (power) profile what you pick won't really matter. Since you also select the temperature off check box anyway. -
You raise some good points Mike. And while the Device Monitor is super cool and all. But I don't know if it could detect a spike say a thousandth of a second. I am guessing just by observing it that it might not pick up any faster than say a tenth of a second. It is hard to judge from the computer monitor how fast it is capable of. It might just boil down to the abilities of your computer (or the speed of the USB port, whichever is the bottleneck).
I have four oscilloscopes and I should do some testing when I have some time to kill. As it would be interesting even for a very brief instant in time if it does slam the coil at 200 watts. -
Well if the DNA200 thinks it is configured for a 3 cell, yes it will see battery #3 as a dead cell. But once you configure it for 2 cell, it ignores the third cell and just checks the first two cells. And the reason for shorting the third between the plus and minus connections is because the positive is the positive power for the DNA and without a battery it connects to nothing.
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mikepetro said:
Temp Dominant changes the control action (Display and the +/- buttons) to adjust temp by default instead of watts.
I am so glad Evolv added this option. So many love the DNA, but that was one thing that was pretty annoying.mikepetro said:I find it rather handy as I always leave my Mods on 200w and then let temp control it. So in day to day use, I just adjust temp.
Umm... do you really need it there? I am just thinking of cons. And I know for me, it doesn't need to be that high for the same performance. What should work is to keep dropping the wattage until you find the wattage where you noticed a change in vape. Then bump it up some.
CONS:
1) Harder on the battery for no gain.
2) Harder on the DNA200 (but we know the DNA is tough stuff)
3) It probably shortens coil(s) life.
I remember one video that Phil Busardo made and he tried testing if the DNA will pop up with a short error. But the DNA kept firing everything he tried. He even tried sticking a screwdriver inside of the 510 connector and it still fired and the screwdriver started to smoke.
Now lets say everything is working just fine with wattage set at 200 watts. Now let's say that 510 insulator melts, cracks, or something. Now you have a short and pushing 200 watts and TC will never kick in. Sure the batteries probably will be ok and the DNA200 will probably be able to handle it. But that's probably. There is always what if?
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Yes that is true.
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MikeTheVapeDude said:
Did he seriously just recommend dead shorting a battery?
No, no! This is converting a 3 cell Wismec to a two 18650 DNA200. Problem is you just can't pull battery 3 out. But to make all of the wiring correct for a two cell DNA200, the Wismec needs battery 3 pulled and if you short the plus and minus contacts of the missing battery, it will be wired 100% correctly. And all you have to do next is to tell EScribe you are using two cells. If you want a 3 cell DNA200 back, the process is simple enough to reverse. -
dwcraig1 said:
Here's a link were I compared a lipo with 18650's, both packs were at 12.6 volts at firing.
https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/67734-topic/?do=findComment&comment=909671
Quite interesting. But I know Sony hasn't manufactured any 18650 for at least two years now. If they were actually manufactured by Sony themselves, they got to be at least two years old. And I bet that lipo was practically new. Sony does still sell Sony batteries, but they buy from other various manufactures and put their wrapper on them.
Another thing while it is well known how good Sony batteries are, but their performance goes downhill at about 3.8v. (https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/purple-efest-vs-sony-vtc4-vs-mnke-vs-aw-imr-all-18650s.535735/#post-12540113). And you tested a lipo against a Sony at its worse performance. -
Gosh that was very brave!
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VapingBad said:
Because you have a high voltage sag from the batteries. 18650s will never perform as well as decent LiPos
Really? I am into RC and my lipos are horrible for battery sag. Same ones that the DNA200 often uses. And the electric car manufacturers have lots of smart scientists, researchers, and engineers. And oddly enough they are using 18650s for their battery packs. So you better call them and set them straight.
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I never used that Research tab, but can't you adjust it there? I thought about using that tab myself when I wanted more than a 10 second puff. It is listed there, but I never went any further.
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Ok thanks, ChunkyButt200. I stand corrected. That is probably where I heard it.
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I know you can dial it anywhere between 0 to 1A. But I think you have to leave the Device Monitor opened. There is another DNA200 box mod that you can charge at 2A too. It was listed in Phil Busardo DNA200 video.
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One thing that I like about 18650s is that you don't have to charge them in the device. Ok lipos you don't either. But most DNA lipo designs are not easy to pull out and install a battery. But most 18650 designs are. And if that is easy and 18650s are easy to get and cheap, why not have spares? Now charging is like 5 seconds. Sure you have to put the drained ones in an external charger. But you don't need them anyway since you already have a set installed at full charge.
Another annoying thing about 3S lipos is sooner or later, one cell is going to fail. Strangely enough, the other two are usually just fine with plenty of capacity. But now you have to buy another 3S lipo anyway. On a 18650 equipped DNA200, you can change out any cell and keep the other two (or one) good ones. Okay not a good idea mixing old with new 18650s (but in an emergency it is doable), so the smart move is to replace all of them. But you still have a good 18650 or two that you can use for something else. -
I understand why some would want a DNA200 and use only 2x18650. Most DNA200 use small capacity 3S lipos. A 900mah for example is only 9.99Wh. A 1300mah is only 14.43Wh. But just two 18650 2500mah is a whooping 18.5Wh. And with 18.5Wh means you will be able to vape longer per charge than the other two choices.
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I have two Reuleaux DNA200 and I just pulled #2 out of both and waited for a few minutes (not seconds). Put them back in and everything is fine like you said. Do you have the puff counter displayed on the screen? Maybe it is some sort of bug with using only two cells?
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It sounds like on a Wismec, you just have to short the plus and minus of battery #3 if I am reading it correctly and then tell EScribe you are using two cells instead of three. If you did this internally, without rewiring and just add a shorted wire. I could see someone someday of putting in that third battery and have a dead short. But if you placed a bolt in the place of the third battery, you could easily switch between two or three cells if EScribe was nearby.
Here is that discussion that was mentioned above. -
MikeTheVapeDude said:
I've had the Reuleaux DNA200, which I did the screen-ribbon fix on, rewired it with bigger wiring. It did me really well, but the crappy Joyetech square 510 pin in the mod got stuck down and I didn't feel like replacing the entire 510, so I sold it for $120. Good mod, but the 510 killed me.
Just curious, if one needed a Joyetech square 510 connector, where would one get one at?
Feature Request: Timed Ramp Up / Decline in Kanthal/Power Mode
in EScribe, Software and Firmware
Posted
Well we always had control of the ramp up time, even on a mech mod. The higher the resistance the slower the ramp up (meaning temperature). The lower the resistance the faster the ramp up.