BillW50
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Posts posted by BillW50
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DRTMI said:
A USB port on computers is limited to 500mAh due to the wiring and power supply in the computer.
I believe some computers just worry about the total current draw. Like most of my USB ports are more than happy to supply more than 500ma. I have one TV tuner that draws 900ma. And it works with most of my machines without the extra second USB plug. -
I use Subtanks and Crown RBAs all of the time. But I generally build with nickel. I used to use SS, but I got an awful smell and taste from SS, so I quit using it.
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I don't think that is how it works, kj. The DNA200 Datasheet is a good read about the operation of the DNA200. And on page four, it describes the 25% change in resistance. And that only comes into play if you remove an atomizer and then attach another one. On page six, under Resistance Lock. It describes what happens when the resistance changes while using the same atomizer.
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Hahaha... ok about 0.65 ohms. In power mode, I wouldn't worry about the resistance unless it is jumping around a lot.
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kj said:
On a non related topic, could you kindly explain to me how the resistance locks in the DNA am I right to understand that it automatically locks unless there is a variance of 25% it then resets it to the new reading.
If you lock in your ohms, it assumes this is the resistance at 70°F. When you leave it unlocked, it tries to figure everything out by the room temperature, coil temperature, etc. At least that is the way it seems to work for me.kj said:reason I ask is notice the resistance in the charts it spike to 65 ohms and not sure if its normal.
65 ohms?
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Oh I gotcha.
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You had a DNA200 burn out last week?
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115°F isn't hot for a 200 watt regulated board. I see nothing to worry about. Anyway the board will wait until the temperature hits 212°F before it shuts down and displays the Too Hot error. I believe that is the temp that Phil Busardo said anyway.
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Well it bugged me that there are no pictures of the inside of a HCigar VT133. The screw heads look like hex heads and a 1.5mm hex fits loosely. And 2mm hex doesn't fit at all. But I got a Torx T7 to fit nice and tight to remove the screws. The two outer screws are really short and screws into plastic. The two screws closest to the DNA200 mod are really long and they do screw in the alloy case.
I was hoping it would be cleaner inside than it is. But it isn't really bad actually. That stuff on the plastic I think is super glue. On the right side you can see another board. I believe that is the reverse polarity battery protection. And the display ribbon isn't being flexed by the fire button.![[tieYqKJ]](http://i.imgur.com/tieYqKJ.jpg)
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^^^ There is no like button, but 10 likes to you Rice.
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mike.smith2328 said:
BillW50 what's wrong with the soldering on this board
No it is probably soldered well enough and will probably last ok. It is just when you acquired a high skill level like soldering or something. And if my soldering job looked like that, I just couldn't leave it like that and would have to redo it and do a better job. -
mike.smith2328 said:
I unwrapped some of the electrical tape and to me it looks like before the tape the cells are wrapped in some kind of white plastic that looks to be hand cut and placed over the cells before it was wrapped in the tape I've seen some YouTube videos where people are making battery packs from old ones by taking out the good cells and making a pack From what I've seen in the videos mine looks like it was a re made pack there's no manufacturers wrapping or markings on the wrap under the tape
Wow! That could go either way. Meaning that could be a good thing or a bad thing.mike.smith2328 said:As far as the ticking sound I would say it's coming from the board as it sounds like a mechanical tick Any ideas?
I only have three DNA200 and none of them make any sound. Although electronically, capacitors, coils, and transformers can make sounds. But like a ticking sound... yeah I can't think of anything except some insulating material breaking down. But I can't think of anything on the board higher than 12.6v anyway. And that would be highly unusual.
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Oh yeah the ticking noise... since you have it apart, where does it sound like it is coming from? Listening through a straw might zero in where it is coming from.
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Yeah sure it is possible. By USB, you could send script commands like the following to poll data and to set things. Here are some examples.
Fire: F=#S (1-20)
Set Power Setting: P=#W
Set Temperature Setting: T=#C or T=#F or T=OFF
Set Profile: M=# (1 to 8)
Get Power: P=GET
Get Power Setting: P=GET SP
Get Temperature: T=GET
Get Temperature Setting: T=GET SP
Get Voltage: V=GET
Get Current: I=GET
Get Profile: M=GET
Get Battery: B=GET
Get Battery Cell: B=GET CELL # (1 to 3)
Get Battery Capacity: C=GET
Get Resistance: R=GET -
Yes some DNA200 builds use plugs and some directly solder to the board (I don't like that soldering job, but I have soldered for decades so maybe I am just picky). That battery just looks like they just wrapped electrical tape around it. And you should have no problems unwrapping it. Although it will be sticky no doubt. Tape for extra protection I get, but did they do it to hide that they used a really cheesy battery? I guess I never saw a DNA200 board from the side. That sure looks strange to me. Is that what they look like?
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The other thing I can think of without EScribe is to remove the battery for a few minutes. But depending on the mod, that could be a very difficult thing. Taking an educational guess, rebooting by removing the battery is similar to a hard reboot.
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That "ELPSCGODWTVO" looks like the DNA200's serial number to me. So that sounds promising that something is still alive on the DNA200 board.
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Sadie816 said:
Oh I forgot to say at times it will work for the first hit or two but after that I'm screwed.
Yes I have seen this too, but not on any DNA200 yet, just others. Your TCR should be good there, but the correct TCR maybe something different when you move away from simple standard coils. I would peek in steam-engine and configure it to your coil specs and see what it says about the TCR value. -
Oh yeah, have you tried TC without the ohms lock? And also tried it with the ohms locked? Depending on conditions, one may work better than the other.
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With those settings, you should be getting plenty of hot vapor. I have seen my RX200 mods screw up with SS using TC. What they sometimes do is to go instantly in temperature protect mode and stay there as long as the button is pressed. And you get little to no vapor regardless of your wattage and temperature settings. I think that one is caused by a glitch in the programming.
Maybe give this a shot. Remove your atty, press the fire button and it should say no atomizer. Then put the atty back on once it cooled down to room temperature (usually no more than 10 minutes). Now see what happens? -
At what wattages and temperature setting are you using?
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What kind of atty is this again?
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dwcraig1 said:
So never higher than 40 watts?
Correct.dwcraig1 said:What I really don't understand is the 23 amp part.
The DNA40 can supply 23A peek, but 16A continuously.
Ohms too high on power mode
in General Discussion
Posted
I tend to be just the opposite. Oh sure there are things that I only buy one of. Like my Heatvape Kayfun v3.1 which I never got to vape on, since I can't even get a 28g coil to mount in the thing. But Subtanks with the RBA Mini Plus I just have a blast with. So I have eight Subtanks. Sure they are a year old now, but I still use them everyday. The nice thing about having more of one thing is plenty of spare parts. If you only have one of everything, you are pretty much screwed when the time comes.
I also have two Crowns and three Crown RBAs. I don't regret those purchases either. Just load them up with my two flavor juices and I am good. I also have two Mad Hatters v2 (I love those flip tops, all RDAs should be made this way). Plus a Boreas and an Aromamizer Supreme RTAs. I won't mention the older crap that I don't use anymore.