BillW50
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Posts posted by BillW50
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illyaosik said:
I bought it on VapeExpo 2016 in Warsaw, so I think I owned it already for some time.
Wausau, Wisconsin? -
black lace said:
also, allways switch the mod off, standard five clicks...
You mean lock, right? As the DNA200 doesn't turn off unless you disconnect the battery. -
ChunkyButt200 said:
i know yer handy with stuff but before you drill, just take a look at 'DJLSB VAPES' on youtube. he dismantles the updated sdna 200 and reassembles it. maybe you can bend up the negative part of the 510 connection to get a wrench or pliers on that brass nut. just putting it out there. hope you get it fixed mike.
Here's the link if you need it. Disassembly starts at 8 minutes into the video.
[video]https://youtu.be/Dp6ACHWnOLY?t=7m58s[/video] -
I don't know what their hours are, but it isn't 9AM there yet and they are probably not even open. Plus they probably have to answer email they got last night too.
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Temperature Control for the HCigar VT40 is only for nickel coils (Ni200). Are you using Ti with the DNA40 (VT40) under TC or Power mode?
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It should be covered by Evolv's one year warranty.
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You just put on another atty and that happened? If so, Evolv should cover that. And why in your second pic, looks like there is a second board under the DNA200?
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alee132 said:
I took front plate off but it's nothing inside that area. It sounds like it's up top area or maybe inside the battery contact housing area.
Yeah... the 510 fits inside of a slot and isn't screwed in or anything. It doesn't turn because the part inside is squarish. But it is somewhat loose. It sits right behind the battery sled. Once you remove it you can see it. I'll look for a pic or video.
UPDATE: Here you go. At 32:30 if this doesn't work.
[video]https://youtu.be/iMuVAerOhSI?t=32m30s[/video] -
Well all you need is a box, a 510, and 2 or 3 cells. I guess the Kanger uses a 2 cell? Well you can wire and config the DNA for 2 cell operation at 133 watts max. The next step is if you can get everything into the box?
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I have set my USB current before without problems. But yesterday I turned off USB charging while EScribe was running on one of my tablets. Apparently I didn't reset it as later on in the day I connected one of my DNAs to my laptop and charging was still off. So the firmware apparently remembers where you left it. Just something for everybody to remember.
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The resistance sounds actually low to me. Maybe a few wraps are shorting (touching, compressed, etc.). They say compressed SS coils are fine, but I slightly space mine. SE (steam-engine) says that is right if the inside diameter is 1.3mm, otherwise too low. This coil I made is Ni200, but I build my SS coils the same way.
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AFAIK, clear Vodka only has ethyl alcohol (like 40%) and 60% water. I never tried it, but it might be ok. Denatured alcohol can contain a number of things including acetone. So I wouldn't use that at all.
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NickyGiaccone said:
I changed it to SS 316 running at 375F. It works like crap.
Using SS with a SS curve and the temperature set to 375°F will work like crap for most juices. Some juices won't even vaporize that cold.
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Oh sorry Keith... I meant my reply to awsum140 and not to you. I'll go and correct it.
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NickyGiaccone said:
Ok buddy. Theres a clapton coil to substitute with next time. I know nickel is a poison but its vapung fine. SS coils are fine. Its at 450F max anyway but off.learn the software.
Using SS with a Ni200 TCR graph works like this. Nickel doubles its resistance between room temperature to about 400°F. So when you are using SS with a nickel TCR curve, it isn't going to limit the temperature until SS at least doubles in resistance (and you have it at 450°F). SS doesn't double its resistance until the real temperature reaches to about 2000°F. So running SS with a nickel TCR curve isn't doing anything to control temperature. -
What kind of alcohol do you plan to use? Denatured alcohol would be a big no-no since it eats lots of things. I'm not crazy about rubbing alcohol because it contains lubricants and stuff. But many still use it anyway. Ethyl alcohol would be the best I would think. Not sure what is all in Vodka? But if nothing dangerous to plastics or leaves a film or anything, it might be ok.
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@NickyGiaccone: 119 watts on a Crown 0.25 ohms is probably hitting way over 600°F. It is no wonder why you can't get TC to vape the way you like. As you prefer that fresh deep fried juice flavor. And those Crown SS coils with nickel legs probably have that nice low red glow to them when you fire. No TC won't work for those who prefers that more toxic vape. As it is for those people who wants to avoid them.
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@awsum140: Which sadly means about 300ma charging current per cell. That is just slow as hell. I personally have nothing against lipos, as I use them in all kinds of devices. But so far, I am not impressed with lipos in mods. Changing out a lipo in a cellphone, digital camera, etc. is easy as there are no wires and plugs to mess with. Just eject and load a charged one. But in the mod world, they don't want you to use your own charger or swap batteries when they give you a lipo pack.
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Alcohol should cut any juice I would think. Maybe using something like a glass or a can and pour alcohol in it and drop the Reuleaux in there and let it soak for awhile.
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You sprayed hair spray on the fire button? Oh that can't be good. Alcohol might be able to wash that spray away. Oh course, let the alcohol dry before connecting up the battery.
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What do you do to setup TC up? We know that you use the wrong TCR curve for the material being used. I myself have no problem with TC at all. I can get it vaping just like I can with wattage vaping. But with added benefits of over temperature protection and dry hit protection.
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I have two of them and never one has developed that problem yet. But it does seem your button is intermittent. EScribe's Device Monitor under the Diagnostics button, you can simulate button presses and see if it works fine with them.
not waking up with button press
in General Discussion
Posted
Ok, thanks!