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Posts posted by BillW50
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black lace said:
share whst you thought our bill..
I was hoping it would act up with some ridiculously low cell voltages like 3.2v or lower. But just barely under 4.1 per cell is a really problematic. -
Oh... that is just under 4.10v per cell. Hmm... that wasn't what I was hoping for.
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@wiredl0ve: I haven't taken my other VT133 apart yet (that one is in black). I hope that one is cleaner inside. At least the inside cover is painted. Oh if you get a Cisco 510 to fit, that would be very interesting indeed.
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steamer861 said:
Correct perfectly normal while charging The enclosure comes ready to go threaded for the evolv 510 It is of good quality and quite easy to assemble The frequincy of the screen lighting up is far reduced today mite be cause the battery is lower on charge? I will run it right down and see what happins after recharge One more thing I have the screen setting set to turn off after 3 seonds When it comes on its own it stays lit for longer maybe 10 seconds
I would be very curious to know what the individual cell voltages are when it acts up.
Oh Protovapor already did all of the cutouts? Oh that would save me a lot of time. -
LKnives said:
Hmm.. Weird that it works fine above a certain charge level if it's a screen issue but I really wouldn't know.
Let us know what voltage it starts acting up. -
steamer861 said:
I have the charging screen set to show all three cells as they charge and to stay lite at 50% of the screen brightness. So when it's charging I only see the three cells as they progress, & the screen never dims.
Yes, but you never catch it switching out of charging mode at anytime while charging right (unless you press one of the buttons of course)?steamer861 said:The Enclosure came from Protovapor. There on sale for 39.99
Oh cool. You have to do all of the cutouts right? And has anybody tried their coffee? -
ryanflynn997 said:
no it does not still vape. but what do i do in escribe to see if it's just the screen ? i'm new to the dna200 board since i just got this lavabox
While connected to EScribe, under the Themes tab, just pick one of the screens and select Capture. That shows you what is supposed to be on the screen right now. That way you can see what is going on with the DNA200.
UPDATE: retird replied while I was typing. That is a good thing to do as well. -
steamer861 said:
I left it all together, I did notice it come on once while I laid in bed. The good news is it still works this morning
I will put some milage on it today, keep an eye on it & see what happens.
This might be hard to do, since you have to watch it. But if it is acting like a button is being pressed, it should also act the same way while charging. As it should jump out of charging screen to normal screen. By the way, where did you get that beautiful box? -
Probably. Thanks!
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I can't swear to it, but I believe you are suppose to run the test at around half charged. And the first part of the test is charging.
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If you put in a watt hour value of 14Wh, that should be pretty close.
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First thing I would try is sometimes one or more batteries doesn't seat correctly. And the DNA200 usually powers up, but will not fire.
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Well readings from the daughter board isn't important unless the readings are incorrect on the DNA side.
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Sounds very similar to the previous problem. Troubleshooting would be the same.
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What would be interesting to know is at the balance connection on the DNA. What pin 1, 2, and 3 reads in respect to ground. 1 should read the voltage of cell 1. 2 should read the total of cell 1 and cell 2. And 3 since this is a two cell DNA should read the same as pin 2. But I assume you have it all back together. So I would just wait until you had it apart again.
UPDATE: Oh VapingBad was replying too and I didn't see it until after I posted. -
kj said:
was thinking about it but don't know much about lipos. keep hearing they are more dangerous and besides got plenty of new 18650s that i need to make use of from my first failure of a mod.
You are probably using more lipos than you thought. I have them in cellphones, MP3 players, radios, meters, digital cameras, RC vehicles, etc. But I just like the convenience of 18650s better. -
My two HCigar VT133 have white screens and my two Reuleaux DNA200 have blue screens. The blue screens seems brighter. I have the charging screen on all of them set dimly. The blue ones are still viewable at 30% brightness, while the white ones needs 40% to be viewable.
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dwcraig1 said:
While I think an RMA is the best way to go I was still hoping to see the voltage readings taken off the pads where the balance connector connects to the DNA200 board. Just curious if it's a problem with the DNA board or the daughter board.
Me too. But a bad output of one board doesn't necessarily mean that the input side of the other board (DNA board) isn't loading the output (Protection board). -
I wonder if you have a loose USB jack from the PCB?
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No, he/she is using a RX200 and trying to get Escribe to connect to it.
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I have one cable that came with my cheap cell phone and I used it for everything. Then I got the shock when I connected up a DNA200 to it. The damn cable only carries 120ma max. They probably designed it that way, since the plug has to reach deep inside to plug in, that is the only USB cable that can reach it.
But back to your problem. I haven't seen it yet, but I am sure some of us are going to try if we can get the same thing to happen. I have all of mine charged up so I have to vape a lot on one to start testing. -
Oh I just saw your second post. I wish I had a dime for every USB cable that suddenly went bad on me. Some lasts decades and some works for a few times and then die. Luckily they are cheap enough to toss out and replace them. Careful, some don't have the data lines connected and are only useful for power. I wish they would color code them or something.
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Wow! I have four DNA200s and I never seen this. But then again, I can't recall ever trying this either.
Screen going crazy
in Connectors, Components, and Accessories
Posted
You know, that screen ribbon is attached to the board by a ZIF connector. If the latch became just a tad loose or the ribbon somehow got pulled a little, reseating it might clear it up. Although if the ribbon failed because it was being pitched my the fire button... well then you need a new screen.