txmonkey214

It's my new Merlin Mini. I have a Wismec notch coil in it. Plenty of room. A perfect drop-in for it. It only holds 2 ml. So, I will check the posts when this bowl is done. Funny, though. It settles down, when I override ohms. This doesn't usually happen, when it's a loose post. We'll see.

Prompts new coil, yes, or no when device goes to sleep with ohms locked. SS is iffy. Ohm readings fluctuate. Have to lock ohms. Please refer to first bug, to see one source of my frustration.

The phantom 3rd cell on my VT133 disappeared after I applied sp5. What other bug fixes are addressed?

That would be useful. If not power off, at least a soft reset option without using escribe.

Are you using the 316L/elite, or the ss 316? I noticed the temps were higher on the elite csv. Not sure if this is a different alloy than the "Master of Clouds" 316L I am using.

It's real simple. you just add them to materials available on escribe, then add them to materials on device. upload settings. Then, change all 8 presets to one of the new materials on device, and then delete the stock settings for each material, as you change them.

Thanks for your help. It turned out to be a little more involved. I had to rip and reinstall escribe. Then, it worked.

Jajaja/Hahaha! I will try deleting all, meaning the one on the left. I tried importing it to the device, and that did no good, at all. It seems that more drastic measures are called for. Thanks, VB

I've been having problems with my VT133, in ss tc mode. I think it might be self=induced. I was on escribe, in the materials tab, on ss 316, and I clicked on actions, then temperature coefficient at..., I pressed ok. it was set on .006. Since then, my VT133 jumps out of Temperature control, into wattage mode. The ohms reading is very unstable, and rises with each press of the fire button. It is way too hot. I tried ripping and reinstalling the service pack. This did not change anything. Should I download the 316L profile from steam-engine, and set it to those numbers? Any informed opinions are welcome. Thanks in Advance.

Can you find a replacement that fits? Or, are you going with higher gauge wire?

It looks like a lot of work. But, you'll have a versatile mod, when you are finished.

What wattage do you have it set at? If you're vaping at a very high wattage setting, this is probably correct.

Great. That didn't take as long as I thought it would, to reach you. Can't wait!

http://www.powerstream.com/battery-capacity-calculations.htm

DrDitto, Looking forward to your pics, and comments/tips on your project. The 2/3 format is one I very much like.

There was a post by a member (DrDitto), who is converting an Reuleaux RX 2/3 to a DNA 200. He wrote that the wiring in the RX 2/3 was to high gauge (Small) to transfer power to the chip and 510 efficiently. This means that some of power is being lost to heat, and not powering the mod. He was replacing the wiring, as well. I have found that many manufacturers (Chinese and American, although the American one I am aware of isn't active in the market, anymore) don't follow evolv's recommended specifications, to shave costs off production. This might also apply to the VT133.

If they are authentic LG's, and they are 3000 mah, it is the correct watt hours. But, this doesn't mean that you will get 22 hours of vaping, between charges. Especially with high drain batteries. They can exceed 30 amps while vaping, if the mod pulls extra amps. I like to charge mine, when they get around 40%, because this is supposed to extend the usable life of the batteries. Letting them drop down too low will definitely shorten the life of your batteries. So, no. Don't keep vaping until you get a low battery message.

Thanks. I didn't think it would work. But, it would be great, if the big rx 2/3 screen were compatible. Please post pics and details, when you are done. I am going to use mine for a DNA 250 build, afterwards. Good to know that the wiring is all too high gauge for efficient power. That explains the heat vents.

No. I have done the same, with my VT133.

The battery configuration, with the left positive down, and the right up, is the same in my hcigar vt133, as it is on the rx 2/3. When I put my vt133 on escribe, it shows a 3rd cell, but the voltage is below what is required for a good battery. Something like 1.6v is showing on the 3rd cell. But, it knows that it is a 2 cell battery mod. Is this what you are seeing in 2 battery configuration, with your mod? If so, you don't need to do anything. It will work. It is just how 1.2 sp3 reads the device. Can you answer whether the rx2/3 screen works with the dna200? Or, do you have to use the regular screen for the dna200, and simply mount it in front of the plastic screen cover on the mod?

The 2/3 won't work with the battery cover off with either configuration. In 2, because it is an incomplete circuit without the jump terminals, in 3, because the 3rd battery is in the cover, itself. This has peaked my curiosity. Can you get the big screen on the RX200s and 2/3's to work with an evolv chip? If so, is it a horizontal screen, or vertical stacked, like these RX models?

I just bought one. It is now my go-to mod. It might be a little heavy. But, it also has 22.2 watt hours, using 2 LG HG2 3000mah batteries. A lipo battery mod with that many watt hours would require a pretty bulky build.

I can't say for certain with stainless, but with evolv vapes, I have never had a satisfying vape going under 25 watts in temperature protection mode. To be sure, it isn't always giving you 25 watts power. Far from it. What temperature do you have it set at? That effects flavor, and if it's too low, vapor production.

Thanks for answering my question, dwcraig1.

I have a VT133 on the way to me, now. Does running on two cells also effect the max voltage?