txmonkey214

Okay, so I submitted my mod for repairs, twice. The first time, I waited over 2 weeks (3, including shipping time back and forth). When I got it back, the down button was stuck the first day, and it just wouldn't fire. I just got it back, today. Now, it won't turn on. Plugged into escribe, it shows 0 battery, on two fully charged 30Q's. I can only guess that either it was damaged, or it wasn't put together right, for the second time in a row. I put my first repair request in on March 1. I have shipped this to evolv, twice. Each time I get it back, the problems become worse, not better.

I would recommend buying a can of CRC 2-26 electronics lubricant, and spraying all of the buttons on your mod. Just squirt a little in the side, and click it several times, wiping away excess fluid with a kleenex, or whatever. I have had the down (-) button stick on my mods, on two occasions. Both times, I was able to free them up, by using 2-26. This sort of thing just happens, when enough junk builds up in the buttons. Even if it wasn't autofiring, it could still draw current, and drain your batteries.

Hello All, I just wanted to thank everyone at evolv for the great service I received. My VT133 is back, and working well, as expected. Again, thanks. Best, RSC

Thanks! I'll see what they have to say.

I was afraid of that. This is the first evolv board that ever went south on me. So, I can't complain about it, too much. I got it in September. Do you think it's covered by warranty? Or, is it death by misadventure?

My VT133 fell on the floor, while I had it on escribe. The batteries came out. When I put them back in, the screen flashed on, then went blank. After putting it back on escribe, it would power up, but just gave me the Check Battery message, and would not fire. When I looked at Device Monitor, cell 1 was .1v, and cell 2 was 5.12v(???) This did not seem hopeful to me. The batteries were fully charged. I tried USB Recovery charging, and no luck.

I bought the copper 510 plug to set my internal resistance. It was off, like the DNA75 posted by Giz-60. Mine read .006, for fleeting moment. The rest of the time, it was at .007-.008. I tried .006. Ohms readings were way off. The mod ran too hot, and too cold. TC accuracy? It was a thing of the past. It caused me nothing but problems. There needs to be some effort on every manufacturer's part to get the setting right, coming out the doors.

Did you try using electronic lubricant? My down button was stuck on my older Hana V200. Lube worked well on that button.

Was it green, or orange? I'm going to try that. Tell him not to say Mary, Queen of Scots 3x, or he'll regret it.

Found the problem. It mysteriously swapped when I reapplied the service pack.

Hey, my up and down buttons have reversed, and up is now down, and down is up. I tried switching to righthanded, then hard reset, then reversing to left hand screen, followed by hard reset. Either way, the buttons are the same for up and down temp/voltage, and if I lock and push the up button, it switches it from normal mode to stealth mode. Is my chip failing?

Thank you. 11 seems to be working for me.

Hello, everyone, I have been searching through the posts, looking for the correct setting for preheat, using ss 316L wire. If it matters how many coils/wraps, I am using 24 gauge wire. A single coil, with 6 wraps, at .27, and dual coil, 5 wraps each, at .12ish ohms, if that matters. I read black lace saying something about someone's previous post, but can't find it. Thanks in advance, S

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/4vrhym/who_has_the_best_3000mah_battery_lg_hg2_vs/

The link is rather old. In the shootout, Mooch rated the VTC 6 as the best performer, and rated it at 19 amps. He downgraded the HG2's, and said they can only hit 18 amps in continuous use. It may be they are letting production standards slip, because they face less competition from Samsung, after reports of their lipo batteries catching fire. ? Regardless, The VTC 6 and the 30Q are the best choices. I am a bit concerned about running a DNA 250 mod on 18650's, because of their power requirements. Maybe Lipo mods are the way to go?

If you look at build quality, component specs, and power performance (by this, I mean how long you can use the device between charges, how much power is transferred from the battery to vapor production), Reuleaux devices aren't good, at all. Looking at the tiny gauge wires used in the RX 2/3, and the fact that the 510 shown in the device on their website isn't the 510 found in the device, I would say that it seems Wismec probably isn't being straightforward about the firmware updates boosting the power to 250 watts. You might disagree with me. But, I don't see how you could justify your opinion.

Sony VTC6 would be best. 30Q's are good. But, not as good as the VTC6. Mooch315 rates these the highest. Canadianvape: don't buy your batteries from Chinese sites. They are probably fake rewraps. You have to be picky about your sources, to get authentic batteries.

Any luck? Did I say something wrong... again?

Dicodes, in the US, is probably a Hipster mod. You see people like Leo DiCaprio, and Michael Caine (never too old to stop smoking) using them. I don't own a DNA 75. I prefer the DNA 200, hands down.

I wouldn't say Dicodes's interface is horrible. It's engineered in a very German manner. That's for sure. I kind of like the idea of being able to go from max 40, to max 80 watts, simply by adding a battery (well, not so simply). I'm not sure how to compare it to the DNA 75. Different customers in mind, to be sure.

It sounds like it could be a loose connection in your atomizer. That will kick it out of TC mode.

Check settings in escribe. Try switching them, uploading to device, change them back to where you want them? I don't own a 75. But, this might help.

The deck was a little loose. Thanks, VapingBad, and retird. BTW, I highly recommend using a notch coil in the Merlin Mini, at least with the single coil deck, with plug removed. Great flavor, and cloud production.

I've seen DNA 200 mods made, using the N1. They're the full yard of beer of box mods. Crazy, big fun machines.

It wicks very well. Perfect drop-in for the wick well. I replaced the cotton with minimally processed, organic cotton. Ohms reading was .23 ohms on my meter. It is new to me. I had to remove the dual coil deck, and put the single coil deck in. It might be the posts. I have no experience with this particular tank. Every one of them is different. I had bad luck with the Theorem on my VT133. Do you think they have a "reject all wismec" program written in their code? (Joke).