txmonkey214

dylang919, If you do buy a Hana, replace the positive wire going to the 510, and the wiring and connectors for the battery. Not much room to work with. There's nothing preventing the battery coming into contact with the back of the chip. Not even open space. That can't be good for the mod's longevity. I am considering replacing the batteries with the smaller 900 mah battery evolv uses, just for that reason. Their problems really can't be tied to August 8.They never had a DNA 75 mod in production. But, yeah. The Harvard study, and others, as well as the recycling of criticisms of Joe Camel, and Camel's flavored line don't pass my smell test. And their dismissal of the existence of people quitting smoking by vaping? That is ridiculous. I'm an ex-smoker. I know way too many people who quit smoking, by vaping.

I can't confirm it, as I am the 3rd buyer on this auction. But, I have 2 Hana's with a 22mm 510 base, and my 23mm tanks don't overhang. It looks like there is a little more room to work with on top of the HCigar VT133, so you're probably safe. It looks like about the same amount of space as my Hero 200. 1mm circumference isn't very much, at all. I didn't think the Hana's could handle a 23mm, but they do just fine with them. May I also recommend a very reasonable juice manufacturer? Kevin is a very nice, and conscientious supplier! Not a lot of flavors. But, made to order. And very tasty! The Max VG is really high VG. One Hit Wonder claims all their juices are 80%. But, it's too thin to be that, imo. I recommend the Strawberry Milk. But, it might not be your thing. http://www.rbtxliquids.com/default.asp

If you want to buy a DNA 200 mod, here's a real bargain. I just bought one, myself. I have heard complaints about HCigar 133. But, I have also read some of the posts by senior members, who have several, and love them. So, why not? http://www.ebay.com/itm/252515669290?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

That's over the top, but a fun plan. Are you going to make it a desktop mod? Maybe a DNA 200/250 Hubbly Bubbly Hookah? Please post pics, if you make one.

Ripped and reinstalled SP3, and all presets. Uploaded to all mods. It worked, until I let it set for 30 minutes. Now, it's acting as it did, before.

Strange as it seems, my Reuleaux RX 2/3 works in SS Temp. I have 3 DNA 200's, now. None of them are working in ss Temp. Nickel and Titanium are fine. But, SS316L doesn't. I tried the same RTA's on all of them. All work on the Reuleaux.

I tried temp control using a Wismec Theorem. Same results. Since the coil is in full view, I can see it, and the leads aren't touching anything they should not touch.

I don't own any DNA 75's, but if you don't have the screen set to zero when charging a DNA 200, it won't go to sleep, until it's fully charged. I have one mod that won't charge past 98%, unless you unplug it, then put it back in. If it's at 98%, it won't go to sleep.

Hmmm. I was told the RX200S had their DNA200 510. Which is supposed to be better, but not great. Couldn't be much worse than Hana's DNA 40's. Anything by Hana is a Cadillac on the outside, and a GAZ Volga on the inside. If it isn't held in by a hot glue gun, it isn't held in, at all.

We_Said_Destroy, Good to know. I am buying an RX200S, to take on backpacking trips. My thinking was, who cares if it gets banged up? I have RTA's that are more expensive than this mod. But, my DNA's? I don't want to trash. or lose them.

Joyetech (Wismec) seems to have a strange relationship with evolv. I think they released the Reuleaux as a DNA200 mod, first. Then, they released a version with their own RX200 chip (3 different configurations, thus far), but they continue to sell their DNA200 model. It is likely that they are selling them until they run out of DNA200 chips, and that will be that for them. I would stay away from their DNA200 model, because they would certainly be more interested in promoting, and backing their own chips, as opposed to their competitors'. The RX200 isn't a bad chip. But, evolv's are far better a dry hit protection, and, I would assume, they are also much better at calculating the actual coil temperature in your atomizers. There is obviously a conflict of interests at work, here. Besides, the Triades look better.

Have you looked at the DNA 60, and 250 mods on protovapor.com? 6-8 week lead time for the 250's. DNA 60's are in stock. They even give you an option to include a pocket clip in black, or silver, if that's your thing. Here's a link to the DNA 60 http://www.protovapor.com/product/xpv-dna-60d/

Spirometry, I'm starting to think you're right. Even though the resistance reads the same, it starts acting like it's touching, as soon as I fire it. I think my inexperience with Stainless coils is coming into play. It's a tiny deck, so vertical seems to be the best option.

Ground's are good, inside. Do you think that a loose component would cause a problem with stainless, but not nickel coils? I was successful in building Temp control coils in nickel, but the stainless fires, but doesn't stay in TC mode. Same Aromamizer. Different results. I can't say I duplicated the coils in both materials. The nickel has 4 more winds in both coils. I had to go vertical with the nickel, or it wouldn't fit on the tiny deck. I tried both vertical, and horizontal in stainless. Nothing. Both are 28 gauge. I still have the stainless coil in my Lemo 2. So, I'll check to see if the rip and reinstall (technically, just a reinstall, as I did not remove before reinstalling sp3) made a difference, when I get home. Thanks, Mr. Heisenberg of vaping, for the help.

I'm having a similar problem using 316L, with a DNA 200. But, mine is running too hot, and too high. Very erratic. You might try a rip and reinstall of the software. Even though it is a premade coil, I'd put it on an ohm meter, to see if it is indeed .5. What temperature, and what wattage, is it set at?

I also can't figure out how a locked atty without loose coil connections has an erratic ohm reading, period. I took out the coils, and replaced them with vertical nickel coils, in my Aromamizer. It's reading .07 ohms, and isn't moving up, like before. The same thing happened with my Lemo 2, and my Serpent. I have a Wismec Theorem on the way. So, I'll see if this problem persists with pre-made stainless coils. If it does, I'll download a new copy of sp3, and see if that helps.

Yes, spaced. 4 winds .37, and the reading immediately jumps higher, climbing to .54. I've reloaded sp3. Maybe it was corrupt? The problems I had changing materials seems to point to it. I haven't heard of anyone else having this problem. Glad it doesn't seem to effect Ni200. I don't want nickel overheating.

Hi, I decided to make the switch to Stainless 316L, and it isn't going very well. It keeps knocking itself out of TP, and going into wattage mode. I made a 4 wrap coil on a 3 mm screwdriver, .37 ohms on the meter. When I put it on my DNA 200, it goes up, and then knocks off. I tried locking the atty, and it keeps moving, regardless. I am also having problems switching materials. It crackles like an unregulated mod, until I manually switch settings, switch materials on escribe, and soft reset. I have to keep doing these, until it stops crackling. I made a dual coil ni200 build, to see if I would have the same problems. I am not. Vapes like a champ. Luckily, it isn't having problems switching materials to nickel. I have 1.2 sp3 loaded. I thought that was the cure. Do I also need to load a manufacturer's settings for SS 316L?

Are your battery cells charging at the same level? Low/bad batteries will cause erratic behavior in any device. If not, send it back.

Glad it was an improvement. Try this: Go to Screens, and change all the settings for charging and running in both temp and wattage. Reset. Then, set them back where you want them. Reset. Rinse, lather, repeat!

Sounds like a corrupted file. Try this: While plugged into escribe, go to "screen", and set all the light settings to 0%. Upload settings to device, soft reset, then go back to screen, raise all the settings to 100%, upload settings to device, soft reset, and see if that makes a difference. Ypu might have to reset a few times, to get the battery level off 0%. If that doesn't work, try it with hard reset. You have nothing to loose, but time.

Internal resistence? Makes perfect sense. seti5, I think ETA used 26650's. Left them laying around on a pile of coins, in public places. Also, I have noticed that most of the complaints I've seen on the board, across DNA platforms, are either HCigar, Wismec, or Efusion mods. Can't be a coincidence.

All good points. I don't use any 18650's for vaping longer than 6 months. And I never leave them in my DNA 40's, after they show the power level dropping on the battery indicator. Once it drops from full charge on the board icon, it's at 3.6 volts. !Viva Catalonia, seti5!

seti5, Efest isn't a reliable brand. I would stick with Sony, Samsung, or LG. Efest aren't safe to use in your mod, really. DNA 75's pull more than 25 amps, which is the real rating for their 40 amp batteries, according to Mooch. Recently, I asked a question about changing the power settings, and was told that the DNA 200 is 23 max and pulse amps, and the DNA 75 was 28 amps continuous, and 32 max pulse. So, your estimate of 12 amps for your mod is way off. You are pushing the battery over its true capacity when you vape. I would imagine that the 26650 would vent more gas than an 18650, due to both surface area increase and stored power capacity. If you aren't getting the vape hours you were expecting from the 26650, it is probably due to the battery loosing power to heat. Not a good thing. At the very least, it will shorten the useful life of the battery.

Ha!