txmonkey214

How are you fitting an 18650 in a 26650 battery terminal? Rubber bands, wrapped around the center? Also, how are you fitting a 26650 into a mod that is designed to hold 18650's? You should think of the actual objects that you are discussing, instead of just offering a conceptual, what if scenario, that doesn't translate to nuts and bolts reality. I had no idea that technological inferiority was genetic. How horrible of me to mention it. Also, I was unaware there were any racial distinctions that can be made between someone who is Japanese, and someone who is Chinese. I was also unaware of race, (if there is such a thing) being genetically traceable. Again, I am a monster. Good thing you're in Europe. They aren't allowed to use Google Translate in the PRC. They're too oppressive.

When you download 1.2 SP3, the battery goes to 0. My best guess is that an update to fix this cannot be done, until they apply for, and receive approval from the FDA. Although, it seems that they should be dealing with the ATF, since they are claiming it is "tobacco". Run a soft reset on Escribe. It will fix the battery percentage problem.

Charge it up, all the way. Low battery power causes glitches, no matter what it's powering. If this isn't the problem, could be juice on the board, or batteries aren't "married".

23? The default setting on my Hana, and the used Hana I just sent back from ebay is 24, for both. Yes, I have read that nothing you can do would harm either you, or the board. A blown fuse isn't really harming the board. So, it might blow?

Hello, everyone, I have a question about current settings. Is it safe, and, is it beneficial to raise the maximum peak input current in Escribe? It seems strange that the setting for max peak, and max sustained are both 24 amperes. The max peak might need to be higher. Or, will this just lead to a blow board fuse? Has anyone tweaked this setting on their mod? Has Brandon offered an opinion? Thanks in advance.

Not a contempt for Asian products. Please look at the high praise I give to JAPANESE electronics. They are very good. Chinese electronics, however, are inferior, due to a combination of technological deficiencies, as well as their knack for shaving production costs, through the unscrupulous, and undeclared use of inferior materials. Why should I buy Chinese, when you can't trust the manufacturers to deliver what is promised? I wouldn't buy e-juice from a Chinese source, either. Same reason.

Comparing a Yihi chip to a DNA chip is like comparing a Commodore 64 to an XBox One. How much are you being paid by Yihi? Do you usually just post hyperbolic reviews of their products for money? Is it more lucrative to Troll on evolv's forum? Don't deny it. Let me know the rates.

Clone your hard drive onto a samsung evo ssd, and drop that into the Asus. Windows will keep telling you to activate windows. but, it works fine in windows 10.

It's all very simple. They do far, far less than DNA chipsets, so they use less energy. How are they more efficient, if they do less work? You can't measure work in hours, only. You have to consider productivity. And Evolv chips are far more productive than anything made in Asia. If you want quality Asian electronics, you have to buy from Japan. Look at the quality of electronics in Chinese and Korean electric guitars. The potentiometers, wiring, capacitors, resistors (if they even have them) and most importantly, the pickups, are all inferior to Japanese. In fact, the pickups in Chinese made guitars are worthless. They have HUGE ferrite magnets to make up for the fact the their coils are crap copper alloy, with 1/4 of the windings found in American made pickups. Why are you even thinking of comparing Chinese junk to American products?

Sorry, patrickhn01. California seems to make the best juice, but lousy, obstructive laws. I like desert flavors. The whole stepping stone to whatever theory has always been bunk. In fact, I quit smoking cigarettes two years ago, by vaping.

Yes, but ebay won't allow you to just use paypal. You have to use a credit card, through paypal. I used a copy of my credit card, with my wife's name (our last names are different) on it. They had no problem with that. We have the same address, of course. But, it isn't a fool-proof way of verifying age. If anything, it seems to show they want to find ways to circumvent, but give the appearance of compliance.

Yes, indeed! They give a crunchy drive to the power tubes. I have a Fender Princeton, and a beastly Ampeg Gemini II that is the size of a Marshall half stack. Both use 12AX7's in their circuits. They use them in the Ampeg for the reverb and tremolo circuits. Not sure why anyone would ever need to use tremolo. But, it was a popular option in the 1960's. I'm currently playing a Dipinto Mach IV, and a Frankentein fake Chinese Les Paul that I stripped the pickups and electronics out of, and replaced with Gibson Pro's from a Studio Les Paul, and American made pots and NOS Sprague oil in foil caps. Chinese electronics are substandard. Consider their vapes.

In my experience, Tim won't ignore you. Others? They only offer 30 day warranties, now. So, they're out of the picture, on this one. I guess I'll be pulling the DNA 40 out of mothballs, and opening a ticket with evolv. Yes, that's a good analogy for it. I have an old Marantz 2230 that runs on mosfet transistors. Smooth as butter, warm as mother's milk. So, I'm both surprised and delighted to see this material in use on the DNA 200. Thanks, CB!

Jurdanas, Thanks for the info. It looks like it's on the battery side. That is functioning normally, as far as I can tell. Hooking it up to escribe to see if it's running hotter than normal. It isn't. 91-98F. It can get up to 150F, and still be in normal range. I don't understand circuits that well, unless they're made of caps and resistors. My guitar amps are all pre-Space Age technology. I'm an Art Historian, so this is a little out of my field, but I love my hobbies. And, I come from a family of scientists, and engineers. So, I'm a little better rounded than most people in the Humanities. This appears to be a miniaturized induction coil. Not familiar with them, in this form. But, it should work the same as larger scale coils. black lace, it has been running like this for maybe 2 months. I tend to vape at relatively low wattage. never over 80 watts. There is a groove where the inductor came off, and slots formed from the solder, i gather, on the inductor. There is so little space in the Hana, so the battery barely fits, and touches the board. Not sure this is good for either of them.

Update: I just set it back in place, for the time being. The battery is right on the board on these things. I opened it back up, and it was still in the same place. I would prefer sending it to evolv for repair over Hana. Not sure what is up with them, anyways. They don't seem to be manufacturing new mods, at all. I wonder if anyone will offer a DNA 250 upgrade service? I might just nurse this one, until that option is available. I'm good at point to point wired tube (Valve, if you prefer) amp circuits, but I'm not equipped to work on small board circuits. So, I am nervous about trying to repair it.

Thanks, to all. Blacklace, I appreciate the sentiment, and the information. Yes, the 510 and the original wiring were both replaced.

Hi, I opened my Hana V200 to compare it to one I had just purchased. When I did, I found this came off the board (see pics). The mod seems to be working fine in temp mode. Is this just a heat sink? I thought it was an important component. Should I repair it? Superglue? Or, is there an electrical conducting adhesive I should use? Thanks in advance for any information you can give me.

Posted by Retird, in an earlier topic. 1. Poor installation of the batteries. 2. Poor connection of the batteries. 3. Poor wiring of the battery sled. 4 Defective battery posts on the battery sled. 5. Dirty contacts of the battery +/_. 6. Dirty contacts on the battery sled +/_. Were the batteries a "married" set. Always used as a pair thus charged and discharged as a set?

No experience, so far with a DNA 75. Check escribe to see if you have it set for Lipo pack, instead of Lith Ion batteries. Likely, this is the default setting.

Wow. You need to have heat sinks clipped to your board when you're soldering. I'd put them on the wires, too. I have repaired, and rebuilt tube guitar amps, and plan to build a DNA 60 mod. Maybe upgrading to DNA 250, and replacing the wiring, completely in a Hana Modz V200 (wiring needs to go, regardless). A little nervous about the smaller scale. What wattage, and tip size are recommended for soldering? Good luck with the resistor.

Frogmod, did you happen to try it out, before it went out the door? any noticeable difference in performance, over the dna 200? With a 25% increase in power, I bet in lower settings, it has more of what is referred to in guitar amps as, "headroom". I never vape anywhere near 100 watts, but love my DNA 200 for it's performance at lower settings.

That comment raises a question for me: I thought Temp Dominant simply switched the wattage and the temperature positions on the OLED. Is it, in fact, a different level of Temperature Protection?

Thanks, Vaping Bad! It should keep it from getting hot spots. I'm giving the wire a rub with 91% alcohol, to clean any residue from manufacture. I am not so worried about titanium dioxide, since I would never fire it dry, and plan to keep it at 420F, or lower. I am more worried about vaping with alloys, to be honest.

Thanks, black lace, I would be using a 3mm screwdriver for the wrap. I will look into using wire wizard. Can you tell me if touching, or slightly spaced coils are the way to go?

I picked up 25 ft. of 26g grade 1 titanium round wire. I plan to build a single coil for a Wotofo Serpent. It's easy for me to build for, because I'm Left handed. If I were to build a coil with let's say, 8-10 wraps, would that put it at about .18 ohms? Or, does titanium maybe have less, and not more resistance than ni200? Thanks in advance for your input. Steve