VapingBad

Here it is /topic/67186-topic/?do=findComment&comment=904837

John posted about it a month or 2 ago, I will have a look for the post and if I find it I will link here.

And me, ran case analyser 3 times and still about 10 F high.

You can use a 25 A auto blade fuse in the positive battery wire if you can't get or do not want to use the surface mount fuse, but you need one whatever.

That sucks mate, but it is very usual, I know that is little comfort.

It was a long shot, not had the problem so don't have any advice other that different cables which you have already tried.

There were 2 people who's USB keyboard caused problems if you have one try unplugging it temporally.

Sugru is fine. Anything silicone based is okay as long it is solvent free and non-corrosive.[/QUOTE] Cheers Nick, I thought it would be and it is great stuff for the home modder.

After watching this (35 mins) many people will see this feature as making it too complicated if it is a default, no reason it should be an option for enthusiasts, but as it is you can just set the temp and hand it to your grandpa telling him just use up, down and fire and stick to Kanthal, Nichrome & Ni200 coils it is a very easy device to use. [video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csOQTYEht5I[/video]

Episode 2 part II 35 mins about being too complicated, well there are a 3 main issues IMO. 1. enthusiasts & reviewers see something you can set and feel the need to mess with it. 2. manufactures have not set the the values for the device, particularity battery level and Kanthal max power requiring connection to a PC, otherwise you don't need to. 3. raising popularity of coil materials other than Nichrome, Kanthal and Ni200 in the community, personally Ni200 is perfect, but... If point 2 is taken care of you can just set the right temp and give it to your granny or grandpa and tell them to just use up, down and fire and stick to Kanthal, Nichrome & Ni200 coils (they don't have to select modes or lock res like some other devices) it is a very easy device to use.

And Sugru? Silicon putty that is really useful, on their site is often used with electronic and as I posted on another thread I have used with DNA40 51 weeks ago (nearly a year of temp limiting ) I would love this to get a green or red light form you guys.

He is saying that devices that use a single ration/rate for how the resistance changes with heat (Temperature Coefficient of Resistance TCR) will never work as well with some materials. He show how Ti suffers from this the rate of resistance change with the temp changes as the temp goes past 450 F. The DNA uses a curve or variable rate that can remain accurate with materials that have a changing (non-linear) TCR. He is taking a post her out of context about how you can make a temperature curve, this is an early adapters forum and the post clearly spelled out the risks and was in no way aimed at the causal user. He is right that wire vendors should provide the temperature curves, but not criticising Evolv IMO. BTW this is the issue with stainless Steel as the specs for ss are all to do with corrosion resistance and hardness the TCR can be different from different steels that are the same grade, not a problem if the wire vendor provides the data.

I prefer the VariTube, but at some time in the future Evolv are releasing one that is even better, no date as yet.

It only happened once since release, the other 10 or so updates were both Escribe and FW so it may never be relevant.

Kapton tape below the balance connector and don't drop the screws, you could make some side protectors for fitting from thin cardboard to masks off the sides and bottom of the case while fitting. The case is not much wider than the board so left right location is easy, but you could put 2 thin 1.5" plastic rods in the screw holes to act like dowels when lowering the board, then fit the other screw, remove the rods and fit the last 2 screws. (E: I am not connected to Evolv in any way, Mike knows, but though I should make that clear since the question was for them)

I couldn't find any "electronic grade" RTV is Sugru (Silicon putty) OK? I built this DNA40 350 days ago and it has heavy use with no problems, the Sugru is the black stuff in the photo. Edit: I found some Servisol Silicone Adhesive Sealant which seems to be OK, but would like to know about Sugru's suitability.

You may need to do a recovery charge as the voltage is so low, IIRC Escribe -> Device Monitor -> Diagnostics -> Advanced

The default 3.09 V is fine and it is the voltage under load not the resting voltage.

I see, it is hard to get the photos.

These are the vias David, sorry I can't see from your picture. Have a look at this thread /topic/67186-topic/

I can see a couple of potential issues with the first picture, there loose strands from the black balance wire and the positive battery wire is over 3 vias (look like holes in the board, but connections that connect the different layers of circuit board) that are know to cause a problem if the solder here contacts them.

Congratulations Nick I thought that must be the case when I saw that photo

When you have settled on a temp "sweet spot" for your best flavor, what does device manager tell you about ever getting there as you reduce power? I guess I'm not getting what you're saying unless you mean you perceive best flavor at every temp under a certain limit? Or you get better flavor if it takes a few seconds to finally reach the sweet spot temp? There's still a resulting temp from every power setting -- you're just reducing power to which has the necessary effect of reducing temp, no?[/QUOTE] Depends a lot on the build & atty and how maxed out it is, many times I am floating around the temp limit,and on the 200 I generally run at least 100 W pre-heat so that will get me up to temp most of the time. "I'm not getting what you're saying unless you mean you perceive best flavour at every temp under a certain limit?" I think the clean flavour is more about not over-heating the liquid causing an irreversible chemical reaction than it is about consuming it at a specific temp providing you are getting enough vapour etc. I will reject a build if I have to vape it over 380 F to get enough vapour, generally adding more contact area to the coil fixes that, but not always and it is much easier with the 200 than the 40 to do this. Remember it is the average temp of the wire that is being limited not the temp of the vapour. A 12 wrap coil at 380 F will give more vapour than an 8 wrap at 380 F, I have seen a lot of people just turning up the temp rather than improving their build and I guess that has made me a little cranky on the subject. "There's still a resulting temp from every power setting --just reducing power to which has the necessary effect of reducing temp" only with constant airflow and perfect wicking, but not in the real world watch pBusardo talking to Brandon on the DNA40 launch video. I am fine with other people just setting the temp, but it's not the only way to use these and it is not a massive difference both ways will give you a great vape and better than non temp limited vaping IMO.

I look at it the other way that the temp is only a max limit and the wattage is the power setting, you still get the benefit of temp limiting in the nice clean flavour and pre-heat plus you can turn it up and down as the mood suits. For me the temp is a flavour adjustment and never want to go above the sweet spot for my liquid, where as I can go up and down on power depending on mood and build anything from 15 - 120 W keep in the flavour just so. For me it is more about flavour than clouds, but what ever keeps you off the stinkies. I am surprised that there is not a request for changing the temp step as I have both my DNA200s set at odd numbers via Escribe and would have thought that would go hand in hand with this feature request.

Yes, just Escribe was updated in Sept.