VapingBad

That is only for Kanthal. Ni, Ti, NiFe & SS will all be lower resistances.

Glad you got it working. I thought your were getting a weak vape from the OP, but you are now vaping at a lower power level than when it couldn't get up to temp. But I can clearly see that before 30 W was only metering temp around 130 C, now 20 W takes it to 210 C, quite a difference.

It is not temp limiting as your power is too low to get up to the temp limit. You only set the power to 20 W so the max limit will not get triggered, for 20 W you should be able to go up to 1.65 ohm with no preheat, but you need more power ot get to 190 C anyway. For full power though @ 190 C a SS316 coil which is 0.435 ohm at room temp will be 0.5 ohm, I allowed for much higher temps to cater for more people. Rmax = Vmax squared over Pmax = 38.44/75 = 0.5125 so by the numbers and using a TCR approx of 0.00088 the max cold res would be 0.446 for full power at 190 C. That is full of approximations and is for full power, but below 0.4 for ss is a reasonable guide IMO.

The first issue is your coils are above the max resistance for full power, this 0.5 of non temp sensing and approximately 0.4 for ss, 0.25 for Ti and 0.22 for Ni. It is limited by 6.2 V max output voltage and the temp you like to vape at, as the resistance changes you will max out at the hot resistance which need to stay below 0.5 ohm for full power. Also it is like the resistance is locked too high, the live ohms are lower than the cold ohms in the 2nd screen which should only happen if you go in to extremely cold environment. If you are locking resistance don't, let the device get a more accurate reading by tracking the res cooling.

Personally I will not open word docs posted in forums and suggest you post the pictures directly, just use the button with a tree on it. A few things you didn't say was what the tank and build were, if you locked ohms and which version of firmware you are running (it shows in the bottom left of device monitor).

You can go lower, I use Ni200 dual coils at 0.05 ohm, but the limit for 75 W is even lower around 0.03. The lower limit for Kanthal is a little higher about 0.08 ohm, I would aim to stay above 0.12 to be on the safe side. At very low resistances the mod & atty resistance become more significant and will sink some power, but other than Ni and Ti I don't think you will have to worry about the lower limit often. You are right the upper limit for non temp sensing wire is 0.5 ohm, but for temp sensing wires it is lower, 0.22 ohm for Ni. The limit is from the 6.2 V max output voltage, you are going to be limited by the resistance your wire reaches at the temp you like to vape. Ni will be the lowest max res for full power at 0.22 ohm, ss you can build higher as it will only increase res about 20% so you should be OK up to about 0.4 ohm, Ti about 0.25 ohm. (quick calcs at 500 F just using a single TCR so not absolutely accurate) These are to get max power, you can build higher, you will just get less power.

For a DNA 200 debug fields I need to use a 1080p monitor in portrait orientation to fit all the fields on, window > 1090 px high & no scrollbars.

The screen cable has either come loose or is damaged.

IMO the cotton scorch test is great as long as you ridgy stick to a set fire time and the same brand cotton, I use 10 seconds as it should more than compensate for heat up time, let alone humidity or cotton water content, which I don't think is an issue personally. Done like this you get a clear graduation, I like doing 20 F steps, sometime 10. This is an old pic of Ni200 on a DNA 40, ignore the bottom one for the SX Mini that thing was way way off, the point is you have many degrees of scorch so if you use a new wire make a Ni coil of the same geometry and test both like this, then refine your TCR for the new wire. Note that only went up to 500 F as the SXM had set fire to the cotton, with a DNA I would up to 600 F and the shade is different for each temp, sorry I should do an up to date pic.

I think it is most likely a USB power supply problem, try another 2+ A supply like a powerbank or maybe a friend or colleague has something you could try.

Look at these threads they should show how to confirm it's the fues and how to change it, but I would recommend returning it to the manufacturer or Evolv for that. /topic/67186-topic/ /topic/68133-topic/ /topic/66901-topic/

No the balance connections are not fused so the charger and battery management are connected, it's just the main high current connection that is fused.

It could be the fuse then, it is not part of the charge circuit.

Check the coil connections and 510, it is not seeing the temperature rise 185 F in the first second, that is only a small increase in resistance for ss.

That looks like the batteries were empty and are now charging OK, wait until the battery is over 10.5 V with the cell voltages of 3.5 V and check again.

Legs the power it settles at is more about the airflow, wicking and coil contact area. If you are getting a satisfying vape at different numbers don't worry, it's like mpg in your car it depends how you drive it, how big the engine is, how heavy the car is etc.

It was for ss vapers, I was a beta tester for that and it was like knowing everyone in the office was going to get a big pay raise and not being able to tell them until it was ready.

1) no 2) very low, 28 AWG should be fine, I have often used single core coil hook up wire like you use on bread boards. 3) I have not seen one, I did once stick some phone screen protector on and trim it in place then mounted the screen as normal, but I don't bother normally. 4) I have not seen any. It is just standard USB wiring, if you are making a short fly lead it would t1 to t1 etc. I have not done it but for any length the USB spec has requirements for shielding and IDK how critical that would be here, I would still try it up to an inch or two without shielding.

And the hardware was already capable of, they have just iteratively improved and tuned the firmware. It's great to see this on a product that is over a year old in this industry. I remember your first posts Legs, expecting it to be similar to the YiHi, well done for giving it a proper go I think some people take a while to adjust. It is a bit like how low end audio systems used to have a loudness button that just boosted the base and treble, it sounded impressive in the store, but it sure didn't improve the fidelity.

The resistance is high for a DNA 75, because of the 6.2 V output limit you will only get 54 W at 0.79 ohm (P = VxV / R). Your are probably not hitting that, just a heads up, but I would check in device monitor to see if it is temp limiting or needing more power. Also Claptons suffer from hot spots more than standard coils, which could cause the temp limit to trigger early.

The resistance is high for a DNA 75, because of the 6.2 V output limit you will only get 54 W at 0.79 ohm (P = VxV / R). Your are probably not hitting that, just a heads up, but I would check in device monitor to see if it is temp limiting or needing more power. Also Claptons suffer from hot spots more than standard coils, which could cause the temp limit to trigger early.

They look like 2 mm bullet connector, can't be sure.

You can just leave it in the first profile if you want to ignore profiles. It can detect if it is the currently selected temp sensing wire or a non temp sensing wire, but not between different temp sensing wires. If you want to change wire material without changing profile lock (5 clicks on fire) then hold all 3 buttons until prompted, scroll with +/- select with fire.

The wattage you normally vape at.

Both sides are called XT30 male and female, you should find them easy enough. https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&q=XT30+female&oq=XT30+female