VapingBad

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It should turn on, it could be a flat battery or a fault.

Yes [CODE] "Battery Charge (%)","Cell Voltage (V)" 0,3.10999989509583 0.612414360046387,3.22000002861023 1.79572343826294,3.39000010490417 2.98941254615784,3.48000001907349 6.58085918426514,3.63000011444092 8.96823787689209,3.6800000667572 61.6462516784668,3.88000011444092 82.0116271972656,4.01999998092651 84.4093856811523,4.05999994277954 90.4089660644531,4.09999990463257 100,4.19999980926514 [/CODE] nanotech950.csv

Yes, that's what I do, there is a minute difference between the temp sensing between 316 and 316L that is not worth worrying about 0.001 ohm on at 0.5 ohm coil at 200 C or 0.017% according to SteamEngine.

The battery bar will catch up you don't need to do anything but wait, I know I don't like waiting either but it tracks useage, Wh, voltage etc and was designed for a fixed battery and like to get to know the battery.

Give it some time or reboot the device, it is not just a simple voltage equals battery percentage gauge like the 75.

That's right 2 cells in parallel just appear as one cell the board, same voltage.

I'll move it to the 200 section, your battery has got too low, you may be able to recover it with EScribe go to Tools - Diagnostics - Perform USB Recovery Charge. If you don't see it you have an older version and it is launched from Device monitor. It may take a few goes as there is a short safety time limit on it.

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I have not got the mod, but your picture & description are the correct wiring for 2 cell DNA 200/250.

The single cells will not get 2 A, the 2 A is at USB voltage 5V and will be converted upward, if you think in Watts 2 A x 5 V = 10 W. Then if the batteries are low, say 3.2 V, it charges then in series so 9.6 V, then ignoring efficiency loss and voltage sag on the USB supply 9.6 V / 10 W <= 0.96 A to the cells. I have mostly charges 25R and VTC4s at 2 A and don't think it has shortened their life by much.

Curve TFR, but if you wire is just Ni200 and not mixed metals use the inbuilt Ni profile.

x10-6 means move the decimal place 6 times to the left so 3400 -> 0.003400, normally the -6 would be superscript/small text level with the top of the main text, electronic calculators often use E-6 fro the same thing.

It is found by measuring or looking up the value, I don't think it can be predicted by chemical composition and the easiest way is to use a value that someone else has had success with. SteamEngine have NiFe52 as 0.004036, but the CSV would be even better http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp# But you can measure it: Evolv have posted that you can get really accurate results putting a section of the wire you want to test in a pan of synthetic oil, heating it with a good thermometer and measuring the resistance. You would need all the wire to be in the oil, so solder thick kanthal legs between it and your ohm metre and be careful you stay below the oil's flame point. You could also start with an educated guess and do a cotton scorch test over a range of temps, say 400 F - 600 F in 20 F steps, keeping a consistent fire time, 10 seconds is good and you can trigger that with device monitor or the serial terminal. You will get a graduated set of brown strips on the cotton and if you do the same with a similar size coil using Ni200 it is easy to line them up and see if you need to go higher or lower with your TCR. The TCR is the proportion (0-1) of how the resistance cahnges with one degree Kelvin or Celsius in temperature.

It should work fine if that bridges the highest 2 balance connections and you have it set to 2 cell.

Locking this thread, please continue here /topic/66395-topic/ so it can all be kept in one thread.

You would also need a way to connect the balance connectors 2 & 3 together when in 2 cell mode, that could be a switch or a fake battery that connects the positive & negative. IIRC the battery position is the right hand side battery at the back, cell 3.

We all do it, well I know I do lol. I put the bit about removing the battery as legs seemed to want to NEVER charge from the PC as it would until the setting was changed, belt & braces. If he/she didn't mind it charging from the PC for a few seconds you wouldn't need to remove them.

I don't follow retird, your description is what mine does and what I would expect. Where you say "so it's still charging?" I would answer no. I also just checked again on a USB metre and power bank and current is 0.00 A when USB charging disabled, 0.79 A when enabled.

To absolutely not charge from a PC you would need to remove the battery, connect to the PC, turn off USB charging, disconnect, fit battery and connect again. Then when finished on the PC if you want charging enabled, disconnect, remove battery, connect, enable USB charging, disconnect & fit battery.

0.1 to 0.2 ohm for Ni is a good starting point, but lower is not better as far as I know, it is probably repeated because Ni200 has a very low res and you need to go low to make a reasonable size coil. I regularly use 0.05 dual setup and wouldn't go lower than that, although it will work.

Sometime when they get dropped the case bends, check the horizontal gaps around the battery door if one or both are not straight take the batteries out, put on a solid flat surface and push down on the top above where the outer battery sits until the door fits snugly again.

If I understand you correctly yes there is: in Device Monitor - Diagnostics - Disable USB Charging

I got it once 10 or 11 months ago in a 200, I can't remember the circumstances now, but I cleared it easily and it never returned.

Cheers, I only looked at the power graphs in the spec sheet to confirm it.