black lace

They got in touch with me from his place to see if i had any tips, i'm gonna be here all day now working out 'hlafo'

If you're referring to my avatar, it seems they get a bit squishy here! Maybe there's something in Escribe to fix it![/QUOTE] lol ,no you said get your pointed little head around it,lol no matter. Mine is remarked apon as being perfectly round.

you can knock that bit off with a bit of a blade, it may have burnt free from underneath when pressing the fire button, cant see that linked to your jst leads, why would it affect just one cell.. In the pic what is the single black strand running the length of your ground solder joint to component..looks a bit like a tadpole or gillfluke with a little black head sucking onto the side of the component below ground solder tab updated now looking at the pics on computer, it looks like at the jst, well both ends,that there's some sort of burning or corrosion going on at the solder joints and a few of the dna200 soldered parts seem to be blackend like a zinc battery has leaked all over it...

What happened to your head our mate??

Sounds like the solderd pin for cell one has fractured and connection lost or intermitant.. Somting shorting, it would have failed from the very onset, The tinyist bit of wire touching one joint from anouther, thats fell in after building, also pluging in to somthing els and finding there isnt a batery problem, obviously check that when you plug it into the board the little connectors are actualy sliding into each outher and not missaligning and pushing out the back of the connector..and connectors are clean, a pinhead amount of flux is enough to clog up one of those little connector things... cant comment on how silver solder performs, i only use 60/40, but obviously just because its pricey doesnt mean its the best for that perticular job..

It can be as bad as one extra sugar or sweetner in ya tea, just ruined, bit barmy, that watts go by the tenth as defalt, but not temp because its the temp that can kill a good flavour. I know as a mod builder, getting a mod running straight off the work bench, other than the responsiveness because of pre heat boost punch being at 200watt as standard, you dont notice much els over a dna 40 until connecting to escribe and start fine tunnning it..

What i do is set three different profiles for the same atty, that gives room for two attys with three profiles and one with two, and also all three may flux into each others profiles anyway, dont know if that makes any sence to yah, ive been using mine for several months and because of habitual use and personal preferance of vape with whatever atty i'm using, i only actualy cycle between three on all my attys anyway, hope that doesnt make even less sence..

well its supposed to do what you paid your money for, all the best vapingDragon............

sos, I didn't mean that one ,lol,, I mean is your mod(female) 510 spring loaded, not your atty (male), ,,,like, the spring in the mod is acting like a coil, because theres juice or debrie in there and its shorting and causing fauls readings, also a good solder connection needs to be nice and solid, plenty of contact, not all 510 springs are as robust as the one in the pic. also some mods get solderd to the screw on bottom cap, I think that could cause an issue , with a resistance reading. first pic is of the power out going to the centre pin, second pic is the power out going to the bottom cap, so possibly then the spring may get recognised as a coil, correct me if im wrong.

Well if the op aint got it sorted by now, he'l have to get someone to drag the 510 spring out and find a heavier one..

dc601, faire comment, but you know what is going wrong when you get a bad one,,, regarding early users,, hope to use the temp side of the mod, been told this and that will fit in there, then when it don't work start blaming all manner of things,, its not relay my cleach'e saying but a ""learning curve"" understanding what's going on with a coil and wicking with some hands on practice I think is beneficial, most higher end replaceable coil attys these days also come with a mini build deck, sheet of jap cotton, a foot of wire, and a horrible little screwdriver, I find it puzzling that a person will seek out a been told compatible prebuilt coil to save a few bob over the manufacturers, when there are materials still in the box..

I agree, it was the very first thing they emphasized, back to the DNA40, a sound solid connection..

Sos thought you was someone els, if your on mobile and add emoticons it dosent go through.

You can lock your ohms with kenthal, five press fire button to lock mod, hold in up button and fire button, a screen prompt will ask, continue holding to lock ohms, a little padlock will show on scredn after your ohms measurement when in ohms locked mode. If not locked, when you take the atty off and press the fire button it should read check atty and then 0:00ohms, 0:00v?, then a space for temp..??

Just as a shot in the dark are your batterys ok, ballanced ect..

no worries our mate, I do know that for all the tens of thousands of DNA200 production mods that are sold there are always going to be a few that are going to have a problem and this is the site where they are going to turn up, but in all very few, and to that end I could be talking about any product on any enthusiasts site. but for your bad luck, I think you said your mods fail when using stainless steel, if it happened to me I wouldn't put any moor of that perticular brand anywhere near it. some people will wind anything onto a spool and sell it you as something.. on the kanger coil base, no leaks, there is an o ring on the base but I haven't gone in as far as that, that's why I extended the original grove and then included two smaller ones, I also took a shave out of the bottom section of chimney above those holes, this was before they bought out the newer version with the hole in the chimney, (so kanger must have realised room for improvement), to be honest its only been up until the past few months I haven't gone straight from the box as brand new to the work bench to make some kind of adjustments to either air or juice flow, with anything. (if I was asked to recommend something at the moment it would be a goblin mini, it has awesome juice, air flow, and sound connection) my mods, I haven't yet bought a mod only built my own, I do have a mech wooden twin, and a straight 100 watt that I traded a 1590a build dna40 tc for the two, so not bad. sos, am on mobile at moment,, will replie pm asap..........

non taken, lamo,, quote :: And saying that we just need "a drill, a file and a soldering iron" to build one::: with a little P.M.A, if I can build them anyone can, above pics are very nice inspiring mods,, (except for the brass one,, it looks like it might be haunted, lmo, no disrespect to the builder, each his own ect) below pics, I have a few kanger sub tanks, an a few spare builds, no harm in a few spares, I ground out the base of the build deck to get better juice flow, cant remember if I ground the poles out as well, but I find I can just squeeze in a .40mm ni200 on a 4mm mandrill if I mount it upside down.. yes vape on,, all the best

Are you certain ypu got ni coils, dont they usualy have somthing stamped on them??

Nice mod, i've seen those tanks somewhere,, oh yeh thats it, in the museum, lol,,

Are you ohms locked?

So two different mods and three different attys, the only thing linking them is the program. And possibly the coil wire? i would uninstall escribe,,, then re install it then try and update firmware..all the best

You sound about right with the centerpin, i know it might sound barmy but why not try soaking a coil in juice overnight, and see how that performs for a few hits, they may be a tightly wicked batch and not flowing very well, have you changed your vg ratio, The only dealings ive had with aspire tanks is one my daughter had, that had a spring loaded base pin, i imagin that would could create a promlem on a tc mod.. every time i ajust wattage and temp when connected to escribe and upload and vape still connected it asks new coil yes or no, that aint an issue.. also is the coil coming into contact with anything, obviously visual inspect coils arnt touching, when asembled is the chimney of atty touching it..what happens when you build your own ni200 coil on the deck that comes with it..

Screw in type prebuilt coil, center pin probly aint making a very good contact with the floating 510 center pin in the bottom of the atty. Hope that aint as clear as mud, the bottom of your screw in coil isnt making a FIRM CONTACT with the attomisers 510 centerpin

Tools requierd to build your own, a drill, a file a soldering iron

Win 10: we got ridd of it, not easy to do that either... somthing changed every few weeks, we were feeling like victims of a cruel experiment..