"Throttling"

[Quipu]

OK, after satisfaction with DNA I'm hitting some "problem" with  TC on Titanium, it starts to be erratic feel that this morning in the car.

Like pulsating, on graphs can be seen, any idea what it is or what is the cause?

I clean rewick the coils nothing, then hit two or three temps protect, cleaned the 510 contact nothing, roll back to  SP 35 same behavior, 

Screw up another tank with SS same thing, then changed for a new SS coils and the same thing but less sensitive rattling versus on Ti. On Ti it really feels its erratic to the haven. 

Unfortunately, don't have the graph with Ti. And this is random, can star on the beginning of firing or at the end of it,

or all the time of puff, and not every puff some use to be normal.

Any idea? 

Em, I joined in the DNA TC club 😶?

 

[Asdfghjkl]

Still no word on an actual fix from evolv?

[iLLNESS]

20 hours ago, Asdfghjkl said:

Still no word on an actual fix from evolv?

Outside of them asking users to test a beta firmware I don't think they've acknowledged the issue. 

I get the impression the beta firmware was a bandaid and it's actually a hardware issue that for some reason they are trying to ignore. 

 

I'd love for someone at Evolve to say otherwise but considering the most popular thread around the forums is about an issue and they've made no official statement about it tells me they can't fix it and are just trying to ignore it. 

Edited March 1, 2019 by iLLNESS

[joeblowma]

For what it's worth I think if there are any design issues we can blame the US FDA for that - evolv had to finalize and sell the final design before the deeming deadline barring further changes without PMTA approval (which is unlikely except with more closed systems) which I'm guessing was met by copious crunch time... it's also why the US firmware doesn't have some features found in the INT firmware.

I can say the betas did correct most of my issues with SS though, still get the occasional 'temp protect' where it doesn't belong and any time I've run into pulsing TC it's been down to my build (ie: coil resting on the block where the grub is rather than just held by the grub, inconsistent coil spacing, things of that nature).

[iLLNESS]

5 minutes ago, joeblowma said:

For what it's worth I think if there are any design issues we can blame the US FDA for that - evolv had to finalize and sell the final design before the deeming deadline barring further changes without PMTA approval (which is unlikely except with more closed systems) which I'm guessing was met by copious crunch time... it's also why the US firmware doesn't have some features found in the INT firmware.

I can say the betas did correct most of my issues with SS though, still get the occasional 'temp protect' where it doesn't belong and any time I've run into pulsing TC it's been down to my build (ie: coil resting on the block where the grub is rather than just held by the grub, inconsistent coil spacing, things of that nature).

No doubt the beta improved the throttling issue, but it's still there. For a board as high end as a DNA you'd expect it not to have phantom throttling issues which it clearly does. 

[NateHevens]

5 hours ago, iLLNESS said:

No doubt the beta improved the throttling issue, but it's still there. For a board as high end as a DNA you'd expect it not to have phantom throttling issues which it clearly does. 

You make a good point, of course, but joeblowma isn't wrong... the FDA regulations really fucked a lot of things up for vaping in the US and Evolv has to be really careful right now. I'm honestly waiting to see if they're applying for PMTA and, if so, if they get it, before seeing whether or not they're ignoring the issue. Given Evolv's history with customer support, I have a hard time believing that they're ignoring the issue on purpose, so I'm thinking the radio silence has to do with, at least in the part, the FDA...

Edited March 2, 2019 by NateHevens

[Quipu]

Just to report that big temp. fluctuation is happening when I vaping my DIY NET e juice.
With artificial aromas DNA control temp. much better, like it was.
Net gunk much faster, so I hoped that with precise DNA chip,
I will have more time between rewicking the coils.

Ti graph

Regards

[Lanzarotechris]

Well, I would say no wonder about the Temp flux because you've set your power to 300 Watts !

As you (should) see on the graph that after the big spike your coil only needs around 65 Watts to keep the temperature.

So why don't you try 70 Watts, and if you have a big fancy coil set some preheat of 80 Watts for the first 1 second ?

Then you probably won't have trouble with gunking anymore, because the gunking is caused by that 300 Watt inferno.

I bet your coils will thank you too with giving you more life out of them.

Just remember: Because your mod CAN do 300 Watts doesn't mean you SHOULD do it !

Also you have longer lasting batteries... so basically its a win-win-win-win situation (no gunk, no flux, longer lasting coils and longer lasting batteries)

And it also will probably don't blow up in your face one day, too 😉

[Quipu]

Hmmm, I understand this.
I put my thought on this thread, a few posts before.
I use all available watts for an instant hit when I inhale the vape like with the real cig.
Maybe with higher NIC or PG solution, will limit a TC performance with limiting available watts, and vape will become softer.
All other stuff like a Punch, Preheat, Warmth etc.
is gimmicky in my opinion.
I don't mind how many watts mod needs, for the respective build and selected temp. just want to maintain my prefered temp. and to be instant,
keep it simple. For battery concern, I believe that we all buy DNA's because of precision and safety.
It looks like we all have our way of using the mod,
it's just finesses.
Maybe I'm not right, but I'm experiencing that in this way. 

Regards

Edited March 14, 2019 by Quipu

[Lanzarotechris]

Well, then maybe you should stop complaining about gunk and flux and wasting coils,...

And please never say: I didn't know that/never heared that before,... etcpp.

Sometimes its wise to just accept an advice. Especially when that is a) for free and b) well explained...

And NO, the "security/safety" options of a DNA will not safe you from your own stupidity.

But I see, you're the cool hero, right ? You have 300 Watts and you're so cool you just lick the posts...

Sorry, but you're the kind of type the vaping comunity really don't want ! Because you don't care, and you don't listen and you ignore the given rules !

So do me a favour, don't ask me for any further advice in the future... its wasted time.

[Quipu]

I'm not complaining, just report what I found.
NETs are known for gunking pretty fast, regardless of the applied power.
And that buildup on the coil interferes with temp control somehow.
Mod works flawlessly on regular juices,
and I apologize for my stupidity, either way, I hope it will help somebody.
I'm sorry for your wasted time.

The topic should not go in the wrong direction 

Cheers

Edited March 14, 2019 by Quipu

[dc99]

Anybody ever figure out what caused this issue before I replace a board? I have a 250C that throttles almost constantly

 

[steamer861]

3 hours ago, dc99 said:

Anybody ever figure out what caused this issue before I replace a board? I have a 250C that throttles almost constantly

 

Throttling or hitting temp control, is Not! a board issue. It is a wicking or a coil resistance issue.

Try a different atty or coil, your board should be fine

[Pete1burn]

@steamer861That's not true 100% of the time. 

 

@dc99There was a hot fix posted a page or two back that fixed it for most people having this problem. If you've tried different coils and sure it's not your atty, try the hot fix. 

[dc99]

5 different attis with 5 different coils. New 510. Its not the atti

 

[joeblowma]

7 hours ago, dc99 said:

5 different attis with 5 different coils. New 510. Its not the atti

 

Does it have SP38 early release firmware on it? As far as I know they haven't pushed this into the main recommended package yet, that one comes with firmware SP35.

https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66731-early-firmware-and-escribe-suite/?do=findComment&comment=929633

This cured about 98% of the (false) throttling issues for me. Still does it from time to time, but very rare now. Interestingly, I can still induce throttling in wattage profiles by manually setting the resistance to double what it actually is.

Edited October 19, 2020 by joeblowma
make it a link

[Quipu]

-Check the contacts on the tank,

I had a bad central screw on the tank (510 connector), replaced it with a longer one.

-weak batteries

-update to SP38

-Ti coil can easily exide recommended ohm range for a mod to operate (gunk = insulator)

figured this out by playing with the parallel / serial coil configuration,

when the ohms go beyond the working range of the mod, the mod start be erratic, throttle.

But I bet on bad contacts somewhere.

to point out, solid contacts + SP38 solved my problem.

[steamer861]

20 hours ago, dc99 said:

5 different attis with 5 different coils. New 510. Its not the atti

 

Every time this happens to Me it's a resistance issue. Some were between the board & the coil there is some kind of fault causing an improper resistance read by the board.

50 minutes ago, Quipu said:

-Check the contacts on the tank,

I had a bad central screw on the tank (510 connector), replaced it with a longer one.

-weak batteries

-update to SP38

-Ti coil can easily exide recommended ohm range for a mod to operate (gunk = insulator)

figured this out by playing with the parallel / serial coil configuration,

when the ohms go beyond the working range of the mod, the mod start be erratic, throttle.

But I bet on bad contacts somewhere.

to point out, solid contacts + SP38 solved my problem.

Agree with all your points    I to us Ti in TC & keeping the resistance reading perfectly can some times be a challenge. A gunky coil a loose retaining screw even a dirty 510 can all cause resistance issues, causing a weak hit (Throttling or Hitting Temp Control)

[dc99]

7 hours ago, steamer861 said:

Every time this happens to Me it's a resistance issue. Some were between the board & the coil there is some kind of fault causing an improper resistance read by the board.

Agree with all your points    I to us Ti in TC & keeping the resistance reading perfectly can some times be a challenge. A gunky coil a loose retaining screw even a dirty 510 can all cause resistance issues, causing a weak hit (Throttling or Hitting Temp Control)

Pretty sure I know you. Im also pretty sure this board came from the first bunch. Even though its new. Im starting to wonder if it was an issue with a batch of the older boards.
I swapped the 510 (both source 510's). Ive tried numerous RTA's and RDA's with different coils. Guess I will bite the bullet and replace the board and just keep this one for wattage mode

[Si98justme]

27 minutes ago, dc99 said:

Pretty sure I know you. Im also pretty sure this board came from the first bunch. Even though its new. Im starting to wonder if it was an issue with a batch of the older boards.
I swapped the 510 (both source 510's). Ive tried numerous RTA's and RDA's with different coils. Guess I will bite the bullet and replace the board and just keep this one for wattage mode

In my experience, it’s not always the connection, but it is a great majority of the time, on all 3 of my DNA 250c devices. When they start acting up and throttling, I unscrew an tighten the atty a few times and it fixes it for a few days, until something (even tarnish on the brass that most 510 pins are made of) gets in there. Even some spilled or excess juice that has wicked between the mod and the base of the atty can cause it to give me grief.
 

Moral of the story, it’s exceptionally likely that there is something going on in the connection between the board, through the wires, through the connector, through the atty and finally to the coil/s. At any one of those points there could be a connection that is less than ideal, the DNA 250c is particularly fussy when it comes to resistance changes (arguably a good thing) and demands the strictest consistency.

My advice would be to check your solder joints to and on the 510 or the mechanical connections (if you built the mod yourself, it sounds like you did). Another thing to do is make sure the center pin is completely clean and is bright shiny metal, and that the atty makes sufficient contact with the pin and base of the 510.

On my Triade 250c, the ground nut wasn’t completely making contact with the 510 even though it was tight, I had to come up with a fairly creative solution to get it to make a solid connection. One way to work out where the loss in connection is, is to use a multimeter and measure for voltage from each output on the board to the post of the coil on the same polarity, for both polarities. Ie: measure the voltage drop over the entire wire from board to that leg of the coil. If there is any significant reading near or above a few millivolts, then there is some issue with the connection.

If all that checks out, then you probably have a rare dodgy board. Anyway hope that you understand my tips and that helps you and others get to the bottom of similar issues.

[dc99]

28 minutes ago, Si98justme said:

In my experience, it’s not always the connection, but it is a great majority of the time, on all 3 of my DNA 250c devices. When they start acting up and throttling, I unscrew an tighten the atty a few times and it fixes it for a few days, until something (even tarnish on the brass that most 510 pins are made of) gets in there. Even some spilled or excess juice that has wicked between the mod and the base of the atty can cause it to give me grief.
 

Moral of the story, it’s exceptionally likely that there is something going on in the connection between the board, through the wires, through the connector, through the atty and finally to the coil/s. At any one of those points there could be a connection that is less than ideal, the DNA 250c is particularly fussy when it comes to resistance changes (arguably a good thing) and demands the strictest consistency.

My advice would be to check your solder joints to and on the 510 or the mechanical connections (if you built the mod yourself, it sounds like you did). Another thing to do is make sure the center pin is completely clean and is bright shiny metal, and that the atty makes sufficient contact with the pin and base of the 510.

On my Triade 250c, the ground nut wasn’t completely making contact with the 510 even though it was tight, I had to come up with a fairly creative solution to get it to make a solid connection. One way to work out where the loss in connection is, is to use a multimeter and measure for voltage from each output on the board to the post of the coil on the same polarity, for both polarities. Ie: measure the voltage drop over the entire wire from board to that leg of the coil. If there is any significant reading near or above a few millivolts, then there is some issue with the connection.

If all that checks out, then you probably have a rare dodgy board. Anyway hope that you understand my tips and that helps you and others get to the bottom of similar issues.

Well I backed up to SP35 and it works fine