DNA250C using NiFe problems

[SIRV8PESALOT]

I bought it at NVE (Foxwoods) from the Mike Vapes booth. I love the mod but I'm so disappointed with the issues. I'm sending it back but after emailing with them I get the impression they believe it's user error.  After a few back and forth emails of them trying to explain the issues away it was like well send it in if you want and we will take a look at it. Put it this way I'm not hopeful.

Edited March 29, 2018 by jdiaz923

[AMDtrucking]

jdiaz923, bladedoza, let's be fair to Ginger Vaper. It is a very good device. Right now, it is an only device, with DNA250C, available on the market. Now that it is working properly,  I like it very much. But I can understand, they were under tremendous pressure, trying to get those pre-orders out. I'm sure their other boxes, will be assembled a little better. Me. I'm thinking about getting another one with 21700 batteries. A little pricey though.  

off topic: I'm no stranger to replacing 510 connectors on $300.00 Rebel Mods from England and cheap Chinese mods, making them Squonks. All DNA250, even RX200 is now a BF DNA250.

 

Edited March 29, 2018 by AMDtrucking

[Spector NS5 RD]

Ginger Vaper should of never put ANY type of thread lock/sealant on the 510 anchor threads. I better end it there. I'm not going to start my rant about my thoughts on GV. 

@AMDtrucking Glad you were able to fix your brand new Boxer! Enjoy the mod, it looks like a great combo, a DNA 250C in a squonk. I have yet to build my 250C box. So ya i'm a litle envious! lol

[bladedoza]

This sucks after waiting for a day one preorder.  So its basically put together poorly? 

Also I'm curious as to why this screw is so cheap and shitty on a 250$ model. Maybe this is why.  Can't even get any torque on it at all.

[SIRV8PESALOT]

@AMDtrucking I agree thats why I'm not flipping out. I also want the other one. That 21700 non Squonk is calling me. If I get mine back in working order I'm definitely buying the 21700.

Edited March 29, 2018 by jdiaz923

[AMDtrucking]

5 minutes ago, bladedoza said:

Also I'm curious as to why this screw is so cheap and shitty on a 250$ model. Maybe this is why.  Can't even get any torque on it at all.

Because if you put a nice grub screw, some customers may puncture the hole in the tube with it. 

[AMDtrucking]

7 minutes ago, bladedoza said:

Also I'm curious as to why this screw is so cheap and shitty on a 250$ model. Maybe this is why.  Can't even get any torque on it at all.

Wait a minute, that other one is a NON squonker, then I don't want it. You made me feel a whole lot better. 

[SIRV8PESALOT]

@AMDtrucking  Nice! Unfortunately not all of posses those skills. We are at the mercy of the manufacturers and vendors we purchase from. I just didn't get good vibes so I'm a little worried. 

[AMDtrucking]

3 minutes ago, jdiaz923 said:

Nice! Unfortunately not all of posses those skills. We are at the mercy of the manufacturers and vendors we purchase from. I just didn't get good vibes so I'm a little worried. 

What 's the alternative? Rebel Mods from England? Believe me, it's worse. I'm talking from personal experience. On one thing we all could agree on: Evolv is here to back their product all the way! Over the years, I had several DNA powered mods fail on me. Evolv took those board in and replaced them with no haste. 

Edited March 29, 2018 by AMDtrucking

[SIRV8PESALOT]

@AMDtrucking HAHA! We Both helped each other out. The Rebel was my back up in case Ginger didn't come through. Guess not!!!

[AMDtrucking]

7 minutes ago, jdiaz923 said:

HAHA! We Both helped each other out. The Rebel was my back up in case Ginger didn't come through. Guess not!!!

Now that you mentioned it, $300.00 (with shipping) Rebel BF DNA250, has a door that's moving up and down when it wants to, it has 510 connector that leaks (I replaced mine with MM510) and the dye color fades out very quickly.  When my DNA250 board went south, I didn't think twice, but sent it to Evolve. A week later, I had a new board. Even though, that Rebel was still under the manufacturer warranty, I didn't send it to Rebel.

Edited March 29, 2018 by AMDtrucking

[SIRV8PESALOT]

@AMDtruckingThanks for the info. I appreciate it. I will post what happens. If worse comes to worse I will seek help from Evolv.  

[Ginger]

Thank you everyone here for your helping out.  We have isolated the exact cause and issue and have taken the necessary measures to ensure this will not occur going further.

The themes are fine.   Units ship with the default theme which is Evolv's default simply with a few Boxer and 20700 settings adjustments.   The Custom is based upon JakeT and JCB's most popular DNA75C theme with adjustments for Replay and the 250C.

It is not the black 510 as the Black is Nickel.  Also not the sealant.  Simply, and embarrassing, that the 510 was just not fully tightened.
AMD, thank you for bringing this to our attention.  Glad you are experienced and no, you did not void your warranty.... we stand behind all we sell.  Wasn't necessary to go through all the steps you did, but when you did tighten it back together it did correct the issue.

If anyone else is experiencing an issue, you can simply from the top of the device (no need to go to the insides as the 510 pin is floating and the locknut secured by the enclosure itself) use either a wide flat screwdriver or a dime in a pair of grips and first loosen the threading a tiny bit and then tighten as much as you can.   If you do not have the tools to do so, please contact us at info@gingervaper.com and we will issue a RMA to do so and fully test afterwards.   We do have a custom 510 tool that will tighten this connection and again, while only a small handful of the few hundred already shipped, no reason or excuse for even one to have shipped this way.

Very sorry for the inconvenience this has caused the few effected.
 

[bladedoza]

I'm going to try what you suggest before I send it back with RMA number you provided me today because I dont feel like waiting even longer and it's not going to void my warranty. Thanks for the responses ginger vapor and everyone else too.

[AMDtrucking]

@Ginger I truly appreciate your response and as I stated before, I understand the tremendous pressure, you were under, trying to ship all those pre-orders out and I don't blame you. However, I disagree with your statement:   "Wasn't necessary to go through all the steps you did, but when you did tighten it back together it did correct the issue." Because, being an electronic technician by trade, that was the first thing that I did and it didn't help.  I used a very large Craftsman screw driver. Also, you didn't address the drayed glue, that I've removed with my threading die, what was it? Further more, the actual issue was in some small plastic shavings between brass contact washer and the nut. How did they get there? During the assembly, the nut was not placed in its plastic socket of the case all the way in and was pulled in by the connector, when it was being screwed in. When the nut was traveling, it shaved some plastic from the walls of its socket and some of the shavings, ended up squashed between the nut and the brass contact washer, creating conductivity issue.  I actually took X-Acto  knife  and cut off some small amounts of plastic layers from the washer and the nut that have already bonded to it. I know it wasn't the glue used on the threads, because the dry glue was bridle and what I've removed from the washer, was flexible.  Take under consideration, that you need to insert the nut in its socket, all the way in, hold it there until the connector is fully threaded and tight. Do not allow the nut to travel, rubbing and shaving the walls of its socket. By the way, did I understand you correctly, that 510 connector in made out of stainless steel and then black nickel plated, not painted? That's great!

Edited March 29, 2018 by AMDtrucking

[Ginger]

40 minutes ago, AMDtrucking said:

@Ginger I truly appreciate your response and as I stated before, I understand the tremendous pressure, you were under, trying to ship all those pre-orders out and I don't blame you. However, I disagree with your statement:   "Wasn't necessary to go through all the steps you did, but when you did tighten it back together it did correct the issue." Because, being an electronic technician by trade, that was the first thing that I did and it didn't help.  I used a very large Craftsman screw driver. Also, you didn't address the drayed glue, that I've removed with my threading die, what was it? Further more, the actual issue was in some small plastic shavings between brass contact washer and the nut. How did they get there? During the assembly, the nut was not placed in its plastic socket of the case all the way in and was pulled in by the connector, when it was being screwed in. When the nut was traveling, it shaved some plastic from the walls of its socket and some of the shavings, ended up squashed between the nut and the brass contact washer, creating conductivity issue.  I actually took X-Acto  knife  and cut off some small amounts of plastic layers from the washer and the nut that have already bonded to it. I know it wasn't the glue used on the threads, because the dry glue was bridle and what I've removed from the washer, was flexible.  Take under consideration, that you need to insert the nut in its socket, all the way in, hold it there until the connector is fully threaded and tight. Do not allow the nut to travel, rubbing and shaving the walls of its socket. By the way, did I understand you correctly, that 510 connector in made out of stainless steel and then black nickel plated, not painted? That's great!

That is correct.   It is a Black Nickel plating.   We also do not use glue.   The sealant is from the locknut down and not interfering with the ground beneath.  If it was super glue as I believe someone may have mentioned, you would not have been able to unthread it without heating it up. Still not even necessary on this model.   Not sure what you are referring to a plastic or a socket, but our 510 has a peek insulated bushing and cap which screws directly into the 510 collar.  Its diameter is smaller than the opening of the locknut.  From your pictures it is fully intact and not damaged in any way.  During assembly, the locknut in placed in its channel, the 510 collar with pin assembly dropped in from the top and tightened.  No force of movement of the locknut.
Again, rush or not, this is a mistake made which is simple and no excuse for.  Especially when designing a tool costing over $1000 to insure a proper and tight connection.  We apologize to the very few effected as we always strive for 100% customer satisfaction and perfection.
We've walked through a couple of users in the last 24 hours who's unit's are now working perfectly from the above suggestion as well as duplicated and corrected the issue in our facility.... insuring the issues does not ever arise again.

Edited March 29, 2018 by Ginger

[AMDtrucking]

1 hour ago, Ginger said:

 Not sure what you are referring to a plastic or a socket,

By the word Socket, I meant what you are referring to as a channel.  The hexagonal shaped cavity, near the top of the body, where the locknut rests, like in a socket wrench.  Sorry for misunderstanding. Here is the image, where you can see clearly, a layer of plastic (partially removed by X-Acto knife)? I then removed it all and sanded both sides of that contact washer as well as the lock nut itself. Also, I ran my M10-1.0mm tap through the threads of the nut, to remove remainder of the sealant you have used..

 

You paid $1000.00 for that connector tool, that I see on your picture? How many would you like me to make for you, at the fraction of that cost? I have a small garage shop with Lathe , Mill, TIG Welder e.t.c. Let's trade: One Boxer for one tool? 

Edited March 29, 2018 by AMDtrucking

[bladedoza]

I used a large screwdriver as suggested and my unit is working great and reading ohms correctly. I also replaced the set screw as pictured. Thanks for all the responses from everyone.

[SIRV8PESALOT]

Damn! Wish I would be read all of this before shipping my mod out today. I’m happy that it’s an easy fix. Can’t wait to get mine back. Definitely buying that 21700 now. 

[bladedoza]

Spoke to soon can't get it perfect. 

[AMDtrucking]

1 hour ago, bladedoza said:

Spoke to soon can't get it perfect. 

That's unfortunate. Mine is perfect. 60 Ml of liquid in Replay mode, went though it. Now I'm thinking, how to modify the tube of 510 connector, kind of like a kitchen faucet "gooseneck" , that way the end of the tube will be directly above the bottle, not offset, like it is now. That way, I could use Sunbox Cappy V4 silicon  8.5ml taller bottles. Here is a little hint for you guys, where to get Sanyo NCR20700A for less then $7.00 each. Enjoy!

 

 

Edited March 30, 2018 by AMDtrucking

[bladedoza]

It's working I just have 0.2- 0.3 to much resistance dedending what device I compare it to that's working properly .  Share your bottle adapter when you do it please.

Edited March 30, 2018 by bladedoza

[AMDtrucking]

1 hour ago, bladedoza said:

It's working I just have 0.2- 0.3 to much resistance dedending what device I compare it to that's working properly .  Share your bottle adapter when you do it please.

Wow 0.3Ω? That's too much. Mine was reading 0.05 extra Ohms and Replay worked sporadically, I can only imagine, what it does to you.   I haven't decided what exactly I'm going to do with that bottle adapter yet. Maybe I will use Varitube connector for it's long tube and bend into shape, I don't know yet, but the way that it is now is a goof. I understand why they did it, but I would rather have this connector offset to one side, then to have route the bottle tube at such angle and limit the size of the bottle that can be used. I have to refill four times a day. I don't particularly like these type of connectors. These type of construction, was used in Fat Daddy BF connectors that sucked. I'm sure they are better and hopefully, don't leak, like Fat Daddy did and they are black nickel plated and all that. But that doesn't doesn't cancel the fact, that having brass cylinder over the tube (with a set screw) , is not my favorite connection and it takes too much room. My favorite connectors, are Mod Dog from Italy, they are silver plated. But they are not spring loaded and are better for mechanical squonks. My second favorites are Mod Maker from England (MM510), but they are Ø12mm and will not fit.  I have them all in multiple quantities, including Varitube. Will see.

 

Edited March 30, 2018 by AMDtrucking

[NMEones]

im seriously refreshing my email like every hour to see if my boxer dna250c bf (black one!! ) shipped yet..  i ordered it on 3/19 and i swear it feels like ive been waiting forever =\  ive literally never been so anxious to get my hands on a mod before!!

[NMEones]

20 hours ago, AMDtrucking said:

That's unfortunate. Mine is perfect. 60 Ml of liquid in Replay mode, went though it. Now I'm thinking, how to modify the tube of 510 connector, kind of like a kitchen faucet "gooseneck" , that way the end of the tube will be directly above the bottle, not offset, like it is now. That way, I could use Sunbox Cappy V4 silicon  8.5ml taller bottles. Here is a little hint for you guys, where to get Sanyo NCR20700A for less then $7.00 each. Enjoy!

 

 

i might have to grab that!!