Toffi69 Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Hi, I want to put a DNA 250 chip into a Hugo Boxer Mod which has a simple chip in it. Has someone tried this yet? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Do you already own the Hugo Boxer Mod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer861 Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 If you have a DNA250 chip & are looking to build a mod, Here's a link to a really good deal on an enclosure that includes a 3S lipo https://www.ebay.com/itm/HANA-MODZ-DNA-250-200-75-Do-It-Yourself-DIY-Mod-kit-Billet-11-colors/112634727027?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=413073911872&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 I have bought several of these, the quality is great! The box is all aluminum the 510 is pretty good, He includes every thing you need & it sits a 24mm atty perfectly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toffi69 Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Yes, i already own a Hugo Boxer Mod. I wonder how it looks inside and if there are Screws at the places i need to fix the DNA 250. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 @Toffi69 I'd download the dna datasheet, and the back pages are the board measurements/details. I'd measure the actuator placements first and screen dimensions to get an idea of what you could be getting into Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toffi69 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Good Idea. I found 2 people who did this too. One said it is no problem and everything fits, the other said he had to work on the enclosure to make it fit - mmmh? Bigger problem is that i cannot find a dealer for the board in Germany and in UK its almost sold out :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AUTOTECH40 Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 @STEAMER861 thats the exact box i bought,it is great,but smaller than i thought.i have a few questions since you have done some.first it is ok mounting board directly to the aluminum housing?every thing looks like it will fix like a glove(board is arriving today),except getting the battery and its wires in.that is my main concern.the 510 looks good,doesnt have a ground lug,so i guess solder ground on the threaded portion?any tips you could give me will be highly appreciated.thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer861 Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 (edited) 56 minutes ago, AUTOTECH40 said: @STEAMER861 thats the exact box i bought,it is great,but smaller than i thought.i have a few questions since you have done some.first it is ok mounting board directly to the aluminum housing?every thing looks like it will fix like a glove(board is arriving today),except getting the battery and its wires in.that is my main concern.the 510 looks good,doesnt have a ground lug,so i guess solder ground on the threaded portion?any tips you could give me will be highly appreciated.thanks Yes the board gets attached directly to the Case with included screws, no need for Ground to 510. The board grounds direct to enclosure. It would have been nice if there was room for a battery connector (XT30) but there is not. A live connection to the battery is ok. The way I have put mine together is, I pre fit the chip to make sure the buttons work with out any problems. I cut the 510 + wire to size & tin the end. Make sure there is enough slack in the wire for the spring in the 510 to travel freely. I put a bend in the screen lead, carefully so it loops back onto it self, this important or the lead will get trapped under the fire button & malfunction. I put a small piece of foam attached to the board with electrical tape directly behind the screen, this will keep slight pressure on the screen between the board & the back of the screen to hold it nicely in place. I solder the + - from the battery direct to the board, Carefully put the chip in the enclosure, making sure the screen is in the recesse ( a small piece of tape on the back of the screen helps here) once the board is fitted, I check the buttons move freely & the screen is working & postioned well while holding the chip in with my hand. If every thing looks good? Connect the board to the enclosure with the provided screws, carefully solder the + 510 wire to the board. At this point, if all went well just fold the battery into the enclosure & install the included case screws I have done three with 200/250's, all work well For the money this makes a very nice mod, that will fit a 24mm atty nicely Hope this helps Edited March 24, 2018 by steamer861 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AUTOTECH40 Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 THANKS FOR THE INPUT STEAMER861 did you use the 4 pin balanced charge connectors for the board and batt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer861 Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Yes I did, cause it has a Lipo, it charges via USB so 4 pin is necessary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AUTOTECH40 Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 thanks again steamer861.all your tips spot on.got it all put together today.works great.i updated firmware in escribe.i was reading a tutorial says to setup the battery info in escribe.must be an old tut cause the mod tab isn't there now.did you have to setup any battery parameters?mine showed half charged when assembled and shows all 3 cells balanced after charging.full charge for pack shows 12.6 though and not 11.1,board temp is 81c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer861 Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 Yes some setup is needed, on the mod tab, sub tab battery, Choose Lithium Polymer 3 cells 10.54 watt hours Soft cell cut off 3.09 volts Electrical Tab mod resistance = .004 Thermal Tab Case cooling time constant 339.36 Case heating time Constant 1000 Case Usb Connect temperature rise 8.3 Case Usb Charge Temperature rise 9.84 Minimum Ambient Temperature -20 Maximun Ambient Temperature 110 This is how I have mine setup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AUTOTECH40 Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 thanks.i had to switch user interface to manufacturer to get the mod tab.the tutorial I was following didn't say that.lol.thanks for giving me the specs also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akyprian Posted June 4, 2018 Report Share Posted June 4, 2018 On 1/29/2018 at 5:48 PM, Toffi69 said: Hi, I want to put a DNA 250 chip into a Hugo Boxer Mod which has a simple chip in it. Has someone tried this yet? Thank you Yes, it can be done. I just got a DNA 250 board out of a c2d1 mod and installed it successfully into a Hugo Vapor Boxer Rader mod. It was worth the effort! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMDtrucking Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 On 1/29/2018 at 7:48 AM, Toffi69 said: Hi, I want to put a DNA 250 chip into a Hugo Boxer Mod which has a simple chip in it. Has someone tried this yet? Thank you I didn't try that. But I installed Evolv DNA250C board in SXK Boxer Clone. I also have an original Ginger Vaper Boxer DNA250C, but this one came out better. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 Damn @AMDtrucking,easy swap? It looked like it could work, shoulda figured you'd be all over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMDtrucking Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 46 minutes ago, Wayneo said: Damn @AMDtrucking,easy swap? It looked like it could work, shoulda figured you'd be all over it. It wasn't hard. It did require few adjustments though. But I didn't use anything except Dremel and X-acto knife to cut plastic. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spector NS5 RD Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 @AMDtrucking I should have my SXK Boxer clone soon, as well. Thanks for the pics. I suspected (hoped) it would be a direct replacement for the SXK board. Can you PM me or post some pics of the stock SXK board? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMDtrucking Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 (edited) 20 minutes ago, Spector NS5 RD said: @AMDtrucking I should have my SXK Boxer clone soon, as well. Thanks for the pics. I suspected (hoped) it would be a direct replacement for the SXK board. Can you PM me or post some pics of the stock SXK board? Thanks! OK. No problems. Because the DNA250C board is longer on the bottom, I milled (with Dremel) a small cavity in the bottom of the case. Also, nonexistent "SELECT" middle button has a hole in it. I filled it up with a little white delrin plug. I made that photo for my Russian friends and marked it in Russian. But I'm sure, you'll understand. Карман - cavity, Заглушка - plug. Also, DNA250C has one of it's inductive transformers offset to one side, you will need to cut a hole for it in the plastic cover. Окно - hole in this case. And I'm sure you know how to solder jumpers, on the board, to make it work properly, with two batteries. Edited September 9, 2018 by AMDtrucking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackalobe Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 AMDtrucking, could you help me with a few questions I have about doing this swap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now