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Please put a Temp Lock option in software!!!


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This is the most annoying thing about this device!!!!!  So you have all this customizable software to set up profiles. You have a profile set to TEMP CONTROL but the device decides "nope this isn't temp control" drops out and you get blasted with 115 watts of burning hot vapor. Why have the software if it does nothing! If it drops out of temp ,make it throw an error code , instead of running in wattage mode. This is so damn annoying!!! So let me explain. Ive been running temp control since its birth and I have certain RDA's I use for it do to there amazing connections. Right now I'm running a parallel Ss alien fused Clapton. I have a custom tcr uploaded. When it works its amazing and vapes like no other. All the advantages of an amazing flavor and wicking coil without the millisecond hit you would usually have to take in wattage mode because you can keep the temperature to your liking. But then out of no where BAM it decides to drop and you either get scalded by your device or your re wicking because the cotton is burnt!!!!! This device has great potential to get us out of those coils that we used back in 2002 in a ce4. Because we have came full circle and we are there again wrapping spaced coils with 30 gauge wire!!! Please, please, please put a temp lock on either the software or the device itself!!!!

Thank you and sorry for ranting

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I imagine it is just because ss, especially with a bulky coil doesn't change temp by 150 F in the first second sometimes and it tripping the safety feature.  Big coils retain a lot of temperature and ss is a very poor metal to use for temp limiting with only about a sixths of the sensitivity of nickel, it's just physics.

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I totally agree.  For me the purpose of Temp Limiting devices is to prevent Dry Hits.  But when the device automatically decides to drop out of my Temp Limiting profile into Power mode and burn my dual Ti coils because it didn't like the resistance change is more than frustrating.  Effectively makes the profile useless if it does't perform at the user selected settings.  I've had similar experience with "Refinement"  automatically adjusting the resistance then blowing out the back of my throat with a dry hit with not so much as a Warning.  Thankfully there is "Ohm Lock" to work around that, now they need to implement "Profile Lock" so the device performs at the user loaded Profile Settings.

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Never been about dry hit for me, the pre-heat and cleaner flavour from keeping the max temp your liquid sees are massive benefits.

Ti should be a lot better than ss, but the only times I have had a DNA fall out of temp mode have been atty problems, build problems or very dirty 510 and temp limiting on DNAs has been my ADV for 11 months now.  Same deal with refinement it is always connections issues, I recently got a DAN40 with res lock and hate it, would much rather have power lock back.

Are people saying they get nasty hits dropping out of temp mod turning the watts up very high and relying on the temp limit to regulate power?

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I cant speak for droopydoors but what I'm saying is we don't live in a perfect world, atty connections aren't always going to be the same, they may be dirty, loose or a variety of other reasons to get a different resistance reading. Regardless of our imperfect world I don't want the device to automatically go into Power Mode when my Profile is set for Temp Mode or fire at a new "Refined" resistance without as much as a notification.

This functionality creates burnt coils and severe dry hits when our world isn't perfect and contributes to a inconsistent vaping experience.  When I specifically upload a TCR to the Profile and choose the settings that's what I want it to use. If the device automatically ignores those settings and just reverts to Power Mode the profile is effectively useless at that point and is not a pleasurable vaping experience.

Ohm Lock works around the Refinement issue but there's nothing to force the Selected Profile to stay the Selected Profile that I'm aware of.  I'm not sure what the feature is called that auto switches to Power Mode but wish it wasn't there. IMO once the Profile is selected that's what it should use plain and simple.  If there's problems with my build and that Profile I'll fix them but I see no benefit in automatically switching to Power mode (I can choose my Kanthal Profile when I want).  At the very least a notification message to alert the user "Hey Gonna Burn Up Your Coil" before delivering that very unpleasant dry hit. 

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Most likely if the DNA is dropping out of temp mode it's due to a limited change in resistance while firing. There can be many causes for this. I'm not that familiar with the coil you are using, however I can see complicated coils causing more issues. I have a feeling you already know all this. However I do know that if everything is set up and built properly the DNA does a very good job at what it is supposed to do.

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One thing you could do to help minimize the effects of the DNA dropping out of temp mode is to turn down the max wattage allowed for non-temp builds. Setting this really low should avoid a massive power burst if the DNA kicks out of temp mode. Also using the ohm lock should help.

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I run these coils at 380 F at 80 - 100 watts with a preheat to 100 watts punch at 5. What that does is take these amazing coils that wick and have better flavor than any single wrap 30 or 28 gauge could ever possible give and make them vape at a really satisfiing temperature. So when it drops out its back to straight wattage to the coil instead off pwm type hit. The problem mostly happens on a cold coil. The only way I can get it to start reading as temp after the device goes to sleep is by putting the wattage up to above 150 F and hit the button a few times. Then it seems to stay working even after I drop it back down to 80 watts.

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Droopydroors said:

This is the most annoying thing about this device!!!!!  So you have all this customizable software to set up profiles. You have a profile set to TEMP CONTROL but the device decides "nope this isn't temp control" drops out and you get blasted with 115 watts of burning hot vapor. Why have the software if it does nothing! If it drops out of temp ,make it throw an error code , instead of running in wattage mode. This is so damn annoying!!! So let me explain. Ive been running temp control since its birth and I have certain RDA's I use for it do to there amazing connections. Right now I'm running a parallel Ss alien fused Clapton. I have a custom tcr uploaded. When it works its amazing and vapes like no other. All the advantages of an amazing flavor and wicking coil without the millisecond hit you would usually have to take in wattage mode because you can keep the temperature to your liking. But then out of no where BAM it decides to drop and you either get scalded by your device or your re wicking because the cotton is burnt!!!!! This device has great potential to get us out of those coils that we used back in 2002 in a ce4. Because we have came full circle and we are there again wrapping spaced coils with 30 gauge wire!!! Please, please, please put a temp lock on either the software or the device itself!!!!

Thank you and sorry for ranting



FWIW, I tend to agree with you.  My guess is it is set up the way it is because kanthal users who don't go deep into escribe would have trouble with the device if it didn't automatically sense a coil that doesn't increase resistance much with temp.

As a work around for now, set your wattage only about 5 or 10 watts above what the coil can handle non-TC.  Then if it jumps out of TC, the max wattage will be limited to an extra hot vape instead of burnt cotton taste.

If you want a really exciting vape, see what happens in TC preheat if a wrap shorts and resistance drops during the preheat.  Yup, all 200 watts is on tap to get that resistance back up -- blech lol.  At the end of the day, it's a sophisticated device and the build does have to be stable for it to work the way it's intended.  

As a coincidence, not 30 minutes ago I turned a 28 AWG Ti, 34 AWG A1 clapton into 3 sections separated by small gaps of vaporized metal after straightening out a coil I thought was drooping more than I liked.  I'll never know exactly what went wrong but obviously the resistance changed as it heated in some unanticipated way and bye-bye coil.

In any event, it would be nice to have the option of telling it not to ever automatically switch to non-TC mode.  Stop delivering power and flash a message: "Hey, Mad Scientist, your build sucks" or anything lol.
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I know a lot of people are having trouble with SS because of its flat TCR and there are so many different grades and even when u pick the right grade on Steam Engine your wire could still be a little different. ....It's real hard to get the perfect curve using SS because of all its irregularities. ....It's not a problem with the chip or its features but with wire manufacturers and their lack of releasing their products TCR's and the ingredients of the wire....And like I said earlier SS is not very well suited and accurate for Temp Limiting but WILL work if u get an accurate TCR and build a solid stable connection. ....I know some people have had to use say 304 TCR instead of 316 and so on to get it to not kick out and vase right....I have read about some being annealed and some not and if I'm not mistaken the "L" means annealed I think.......Try searching this forum in the search section for the words "SS" or "stainless" or "316" ,"304","317" with or without the "L"......I hope this helps....I know your frustrated but I'm pretty confident if u do the searches I said you will find a solution. ...good luck!

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scoopy said:

.I have read about some being annealed and some not and if I'm not mistaken the "L" means annealed I think.......Try searching this forum in the search section for the words "SS" or "stainless" or "316" ,"304","317" with or without the "L"......I hope this helps....I know your frustrated but I'm pretty confident if u do the searches I said you will find a solution. ...good luck!



The L means low carbon
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scoopy said:

....It's not a problem with the chip or its features but with wire manufacturers and their lack of releasing their products TCR's and the ingredients of the wire....And like I said earlier SS is not very well suited and accurate for Temp Limiting but WILL work if u get an accurate TCR and build a solid stable connection. ....I know some people have had to use say 304 TCR instead of 316 and so on to get it to not kick out and vase right....I have read about some being annealed and some not and if I'm not mistaken the "L" means annealed I think.......Try searching this forum in the search section for the words "SS" or "stainless" or "316" ,"304","317" with or without the "L"......I hope this helps....I know your frustrated but I'm pretty confident if u do the searches I said you will find a solution. ...good luck!



That is not true... The problem is with the chip and its features!!!!  That is exactly what the problem is.  Listen if I want to vape in temp mode and have my settings set to TEMP MODE then it should stay there regardless if I have the correct tcr uploaded.  It would just be running at the wrong temperature.  So don't push the blame on to the wire I'm using or the wire companies not releasing info.  This device has the ability to run some crazy builds the way you want them to run but its getting kicked out due to a chip "safety" feature.   Makes zero sense and a firmware update could fix the problem.
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Droopydroors said:

That is not true... The problem is with the chip and its features!!!!  That is exactly what the problem is.  Listen if I want to vape in temp mode and have my settings set to TEMP MODE then it should stay there regardless if I have the correct tcr uploaded.  It would just be running at the wrong temperature.  So don't push the blame on to the wire I'm using or the wire companies not releasing info.  This device has the ability to run some crazy builds the way you want them to run but its getting kicked out due to a chip "safety" feature.   Makes zero sense and a firmware update could fix the problem.



OK, let's solve the problem step by step.  Keep in mind that the board wants to see a minimum level of temp increase as it applies power and the only way it has to detect a temp increase is to calculate it based on resistance increase of the wire applied to the TCR curve so . . . if the TCR doesn't match the wire configuration you're actually using, it won't and can't work properly.  It is definitely not the same as prior more primitive TC mod technology that just calculated a target resistance from the TCR and temp setting and didn't care what that is.

So exactly what wire are you using in what build configuration?  What TCR curve are you using?  

I'm sure someone here can figure out a workable solution.  There are guys here using SS coils successfully and I myself go with Ti / Kanthal claptons without issue, so as long as the build has at least some reasonable resistance sensitivity to temp and is stable, there is a TCR curve that will make it work well.
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Droopydroors said:

[QUOTE=scoopy] ....It's not a problem with the chip or its features but with wire manufacturers and their lack of releasing their products TCR's and the ingredients of the wire....And like I said earlier SS is not very well suited and accurate for Temp Limiting but WILL work if u get an accurate TCR and build a solid stable connection. ....I know some people have had to use say 304 TCR instead of 316 and so on to get it to not kick out and vase right....I have read about some being annealed and some not and if I'm not mistaken the "L" means annealed I think.......Try searching this forum in the search section for the words "SS" or "stainless" or "316" ,"304","317" with or without the "L"......I hope this helps....I know your frustrated but I'm pretty confident if u do the searches I said you will find a solution. ...good luck!



That is not true... The problem is with the chip and its features!!!!  That is exactly what the problem is.  Listen if I want to vape in temp mode and have my settings set to TEMP MODE then it should stay there regardless if I have the correct tcr uploaded.  It would just be running at the wrong temperature.  So don't push the blame on to the wire I'm using or the wire companies not releasing info.  This device has the ability to run some crazy builds the way you want them to run but its getting kicked out due to a chip "safety" feature.   Makes zero sense and a firmware update could fix the problem.[/QUOTE]

I see your point that it would be useful for you and have no objection for it to be put on as part of a profile.   But they are making a device for every vaper and the way they used refinement to better calibrate your coil + mod + atty resistance is awsom and far better than locking the res.  Likewise coming out of temp mode when the coil does not change temp enough is a good thing. 

There are real issues with using ss and even if you got the TCR from the wire supplier it would sill only be 1/6th the sensitivity of Ni200, that's just physics and ss standards not being about exact chemical make-up of the metal.
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Mad Scientist said:

[QUOTE=Droopydroors]That is not true... The problem is with the chip and its features!!!!  That is exactly what the problem is.  Listen if I want to vape in temp mode and have my settings set to TEMP MODE then it should stay there regardless if I have the correct tcr uploaded.  It would just be running at the wrong temperature.  So don't push the blame on to the wire I'm using or the wire companies not releasing info.  This device has the ability to run some crazy builds the way you want them to run but its getting kicked out due to a chip "safety" feature.   Makes zero sense and a firmware update could fix the problem.



OK, let's solve the problem step by step.  Keep in mind that the board wants to see a minimum level of temp increase as it applies power and the only way it has to detect a temp increase is to calculate it based on resistance increase of the wire applied to the TCR curve so . . . if the TCR doesn't match the wire configuration you're actually using, it won't and can't work properly.  It is definitely not the same as prior more primitive TC mod technology that just calculated a target resistance from the TCR and temp setting and didn't care what that is.

So exactly what wire are you using in what build configuration?  What TCR curve are you using?  

I'm sure someone here can figure out a workable solution.  There are guys here using SS coils successfully and I myself go with Ti / Kanthal claptons without issue, so as long as the build has at least some reasonable resistance sensitivity to temp and is stable, there is a TCR curve that will make it work well.[/QUOTE] Exactly Mad Scientist and Vaping Bad...First off like Vaping Bad said SS has its known issues.....not much of a curve at all, to many different kinds and grades of SS........Lack of a decent Repeatable TCR to download. ...I'm almost positive that the wire/TCR has at least something to do with it....I to tried telling him that there are people using the same type of wire with no problem but I'm sure there using a different type of stainless or better TCR curve. .There are all kinds of posts of people having this problem and getting it lined out but he refuses to search and do what we told him and instead keeps on insisting that it's the "junk chips" fault and wants to talk smack to people just trying to help him. . I had a feeling he would come back with an attitude with me because it wasn't WHAT HE WANTED TO HEAR and hes already attacked basically every single person that tried to help him! We both offered proven tips and instructions on what to do but he JUST KNOWS FOR SURE IT'S THE ChIP....He also said a wrong TCR don't matter and basically anything even with a flat curve should run in temp mode BECAUSE HE WANTS IT TO AND THINKS IT SHOULD....You can't help someone like this and frankly shouldn't even bother......Sorry for the rant but it just really gets under my skin that I tried to help like everyone else on here with KNOWN FACTUAL ways to get him fixed up and he talks to us all like dogs.F***k that!!!! Maybe he will design us a "Correct working Chip"
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scoopy said:

[QUOTE=Mad Scientist][QUOTE=Droopydroors]That is not true... The problem is with the chip and its features!!!!  That is exactly what the problem is.  Listen if I want to vape in temp mode and have my settings set to TEMP MODE then it should stay there regardless if I have the correct tcr uploaded.  It would just be running at the wrong temperature.  So don't push the blame on to the wire I'm using or the wire companies not releasing info.  This device has the ability to run some crazy builds the way you want them to run but its getting kicked out due to a chip "safety" feature.   Makes zero sense and a firmware update could fix the problem.



OK, let's solve the problem step by step.  Keep in mind that the board wants to see a minimum level of temp increase as it applies power and the only way it has to detect a temp increase is to calculate it based on resistance increase of the wire applied to the TCR curve so . . . if the TCR doesn't match the wire configuration you're actually using, it won't and can't work properly.  It is definitely not the same as prior more primitive TC mod technology that just calculated a target resistance from the TCR and temp setting and didn't care what that is.

So exactly what wire are you using in what build configuration?  What TCR curve are you using?  

I'm sure someone here can figure out a workable solution.  There are guys here using SS coils successfully and I myself go with Ti / Kanthal claptons without issue, so as long as the build has at least some reasonable resistance sensitivity to temp and is stable, there is a TCR curve that will make it work well.[/QUOTE] Exactly Mad Scientist and Vaping Bad...First off like Vaping Bad said SS has its known issues.....not much of a curve at all, to many different kinds and grades of SS........Lack of a decent Repeatable TCR to download. ...I'm almost positive that the wire/TCR has at least something to do with it....I to tried telling him that there are people using the same type of wire with no problem but I'm sure there using a different type of stainless or better TCR curve. .There are all kinds of posts of people having this problem and getting it lined out but he refuses to search and do what we told him and instead keeps on insisting that it's the "junk chips" fault and wants to talk smack to people just trying to help him. . I had a feeling he would come back with an attitude with me because it wasn't WHAT HE WANTED TO HEAR and hes already attacked basically every single person that tried to help him! We both offered proven tips and instructions on what to do but he JUST KNOWS FOR SURE IT'S THE ChIP....He also said a wrong TCR don't matter and basically anything even with a flat curve should run in temp mode BECAUSE HE WANTS IT TO AND THINKS IT SHOULD....You can't help someone like this and frankly shouldn't even bother......Sorry for the rant but it just really gets under my skin that I tried to help like everyone else on here with KNOWN FACTUAL ways to get him fixed up and he talks to us all like dogs.F***k that!!!! Maybe he will design us a "Correct working Chip"[/QUOTE] OK were do I start with this joker. First off if you would have read my post you would have seen that I said when It runs in tc mod it stays at temp perfectly. Pull it up in device manager and if it's set at 350 it sits right at 350 like it's supposed to. So genius I guess you reasoning on the tcr curve that I'm using being incorrect is in fact you trying to act like you know something that you really dont. I'm using a tcr for 22g ss 316L elite which is exactly what wire I'm using mixed with 38g n80 for my wrap wire. All uploaded into steam engine with the exact size coil and wraps and spacing in which i use. And guess what the ohms even match up exactly. Like I said if there was a temp lock then this wouldn't be a problem for anyone. And you trying to be a dick and saying that I want kanthal to run in tc mode well you know what if someone wants to try and do that and have the settings in escribe set to tc why should the device make up its mind for them? Again it should shoot out an error message ,not run in wattage mode. So again thank you for pointing that out helping me make my point. Why can't you see that it is a problem with the chip or the software? Is your face too far up evolv's ass to help fix a problem? Are you too busy suckling the teets? What is it dude? If you want to make the chip better point out the problems WHICH THIS IS!! If you set the device to run in tc mode it should stay in tc mode and not jump out. It's dangerous, annoying, and shouldn't happen. I will get this problem fixed myself and figure it out and I will get it working correctly I was pointing out a problem with the chip that needs fixed. The same problem many others are having that needs to be fixed. I've been running and working on tc since it's inception. I don't need someone to tell me how to fix the problem by going around it. I know how to do that. I want to see the error corrected to make this chip better and so other people can have a good experience. So before you come at me get your facts straight. And stop being such a fan boy and help the chip get better by pointing out its flaws.
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Further more. When I started this thread did I ask for anyone's help? No I didnt. I was pointing out a problem in the software that should be fixed. And I don't believe I attacked anyone in this thread except you and basically only you because you, unlike everyone else ,tried to put the blame on something other than the actual problem. I believe everyone else had said that this is an issue and it needs fixed. Then tried to help me fix the problem. And although I appreciate all the help everyone is offering that's not what this thread is about. I can search and figure stuff out on my own. And I've been working on and with tcr's since before tc has hit the market. So again this isn't about me wanting or needing help it's about fixing a problem. Which it is. And again..... did I ever say junk chip? No I actually said it's a great chip....so again.....stop talking......

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This guy here.......3 people have told u what to do and u just instantly demand were wrong (me more than the others cuz I had enuff of getting called a dumb ass and spoke up.....I give up..... we told u what to do and u said I was a dumbass that knew nothing and am just a fanboy (although everyone else says most the same things I've said).....btw did u add your nichrome 80 to the tcr u made......was the tcr u picked for the exact right ss wire.....like we said if it don't have enough of a resistance rise it won't stay in tc.....I do agree with you on one point though..A warning message about before jumping out would be nice or a manual way to switch in between.....see I'm not unreasonable just trying to state the facts and help u out.....no need for us to bicker like bitches.........search on SS and TCR of it and u will see I'm not a dumbass fanboy without a clue And just a note if u want to use temp control and not have it pop out then use a wire with a halfway decent TCR curve and that isn't flat and u may see u like what your vaping.....Also if u want to use temp control then u r gonna have to use a wire that is designed and tested to work WELL tc......ur using the the hardest wire to get to work on tc besides kanthal and probably a sub par tcr...... just read around and you'll be able to get it to work without a "workaround"......... Once again I am totally on your side about the chip needing a warning message before it switches or a full manual operation of it

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scoopy said:

And just a note if u want to use temp control and not have it pop out then use a wire with a halfway decent TCR curve and that isn't flat and u may see u like what your vaping.....Also if u want to use temp control then u r gonna have to use a wire that is designed and tested to work WELL tc......ur using the the hardest wire to get to work on tc besides kanthal and probably a sub par tcr...... just read around and you'll be able to get it to work without a "workaround"......... Once again I am totally on your side about the chip needing a warning message before it switches or a full manual operation of it

Yes I added the n80 into the equation. Like I said it runs perfectly once it decides to start running its not the tcr curve. I have tried vaping with all the other wires. Nickel not a fan of working with it and it has a horrible taste to me. Titanium I don't want to use on this due to it popping out of temp .Both wires you can not dry burn so every 3 days your building a new coil. SS is an option that I want to use and should be able to without it popping out. Again I have the problem fixed. And it's running fine. But it should still have an error code when it pops out of temp instead of going into wattage. This is why I want to use ss. And guess what it will work. And it does work.

IMG_20150924_014928.jpg

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K I said I agreed with that part of it......but I promise u it's thenl wire/curve.......I've read a ton about this and how to fix it......steam engine has some curves mixed up for certain grade ss..........I've tried explaining this the best I know how......ure answers are on these forums.....I understand u r hostility but it can be fine I'll even do the work for u and post the threads and how to fix this without a work around and how ss is very very hard to get to work right........I'm sorry it mad and I'll take care of ths for u... ..search button is on top right.of page ya know. But don't worry I'll do it for u

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