Droopydroors

And just a heads up. In the video he touches the 2 middle solder points to reset it and that did not work for me. So I basically just touched the big solder joint all the way to the left and one of the middle solder joint and that made a very small spark and then it started working. So you may have to fiddle around a bit with the top of the board touching different parts to reset it.

You can buy that screwdriver in a store I just was impatient.

I can confirm the fix that is posted on YouTube does work. I have fixed 2 Orion's by doing this. The hardest part for me was using a flat head screwdriver for the triangle screws.

I have one that is stuck at 7 watts. No matter what setting it's on it only goes to 7 watts. It seems like it may be stuck in replay. Would this be caused by the same issue?

So I found a work around if anyone else has this issue. This was happening with a .5ohm pod so I went in to the "Mod" tab and un checked the "Enable" box above the MTL settings. Then I set the DL Max resistance to 0.695. So basically both pods will run the same wattage. I have the White set to 11 watts that I will use for the .5ohm pods and for the .25ohm pods I will use the Blue and Red settings set to 13 and 15 watts. I guess that's the great thing about escribe, even though my device is faulty I can still use it!

I have 2 Orions and i switched a pod from one to the other and noticed a very different hit between the two. They are both using default settings and on the red light without replay set. So i hooked the one up to escribe to check device monitor and sure enough no matter what wattage i put in it stays at 8 watts. I put it up to 15 watts and it only goes to 8. It seems as though it may be stuck in a replay. So far i have tried restoring to default settings but nothing changes. Any ideas?

Also another thing that is an issue maybe. If you take the pod out and put it back in while its still warm the cold ohms will be alot higher than it should be. So make sure the pod is at room temperature before turning the device on or putting the pod in. Im not sure if the cold ohms adjust after a certain amount of time of non use. Also i dropped the replay "warmth" down to 1 and it seems like its not jumping above the set point. So maybe this is a quick fix.

Here are some things I'm noticing about replay that are not good in a pod system. Im sure over time they will be fixed but this is what im noticing now. So i put a new pod on two days ago. While using the device with the .25 ohm pod and the blue setting which is set to 13 watts with a 2 watt boost and replay "warmth" ( which still doesnt make sense if its supposed to replay the last hit ) set at 3 I was getting burnt hits. So just like always i set the device on the middle setting and started hitting it until i got the hit i liked then i put it in replay mode. But periodically during the day it would just give me a burnt hit which if you are familiar with pods a burnt hit is not good because it will most likely mean you need a new pod even though i just started using this one!!.. So when i got home i hooked it up to escribe and pulled up device manager and it showed the problem on the first hit. For some reason while in replay it was pushing 25 watts to the coil at start up and dropping to 13 watts after about .3 seconds. This is way over any setting that i have ever set the device. So for now i will not be using replay till these issues get worked out because these pods are not cheap and if they are only lasting for 3 days they become expensive!! So just something i figured would be useful if anyone else is having this issue.

When you click it 5 times it shuts it off. It will not fire until you click the fire button 5 times to turn it on so actually there is no power lock just on/off

My one Orion has snug pod syndrome. I just hold the release down and pull up on the pod.

You ain't lying!!!! But I guess they aren't either. But on the same note a SMOK TFV187798600 is capable of using nic salts as well. Lol

I am very happy with the purchase but in my opinion this device is not a nic salt device. If you run 3mg or 6mg freebase it shines. Also most of the reviewers that had the device before it dropped were running regular nicotine. Most of the nic salts on the market are, IMO, shit. They seem to be using extreme amounts of sugar to try and get flavor out of these pod systems. But really all it does is destroy coils. There are 2 things that destroy coils, nicotine and sugar. So if you are running 25 or 50 nic salts plan on burning through the pods. I don't think I have seen this being sold as a "nic salt" device anywhere.

I have to check this on device manager as well. I let mine charge overnight and when I woke up to leave for work the LED was out. I believe I read this is normal because the device shuts off the USB after an hour of non use. But the battery definatley was not charged fully because it only lasted an hour or so.

Just a heads up to everyone with the Orion. So I noticed after pulling my pod off that one of the spring loaded contacts was stuck down. The pods still made contact with it but I imagine some pods may not. There are two small Phillip screws on either side of those contact pins if you take a screwdriver and loosen them a bit the contact will pop back up. To stop this from happening when you tighten them back down do not over tighten and the contact will stay lose. This happened on both of my Orion's. Also I have one where the pod is VERY snug and will not pop out unless I give it a tug and the other pops out on its own when I pull down the release so it seems as though there are some tolerance issues at the Lost Vape factory. Just a heads up that may help someone else down the road.

No defensiveness just making the point.

The reason it doesn't come with pods in the USA is because if it was sold as a full kit a 25% tariff would apply, which would price it much higher. Be happy it doesn't come with pods because it would be over $100. All "full" kits , since August 23rd I think, coming from China now have a 25% import tax with parts and component tariff coming soon.

But also I have not been successful with nic salts with this device no matter what settings I use. I use 30mg in most of my other devices and 50mg in tight mouth to lung pods. My hope is in the future lost Vape will produce a proper MTL pod for nic salt use.

They work and are now posted on these forums. Make sure NOT to use the cord that comes with the device. It is not a data cord only a charging cord. Also yes the .5 ohm pods are horrible mine was shot in 3 days possible because even though they say MTL they actually are not. So if you close the airflow down too much they end up burning the cotton. The .25 pods are excellent and I am on a weeks use and it still tastes great.

What exactly is "Replay Warmth"? It doesn't make sense to me. If you hit the replay button it should be as warm as the hit you set it on before you pressed the button so why this option?

The firmware needed is literally the second post in this thread.

Good!!! I'm glad it worked. It seems very sensitive to cords. I had one cord that worked earlier today and then it didn't work a few minutes ago so I used a different cord that seemed to be a bit more snug and it worked without issue. I did notify Lost Vape that they should supply a USB data cord with the Orion.

Ok so it seems as though it must have been another cable that wasn't working well. I pulled my PS4 charging cord and now it is connecting Everytime without issue.

So I'm getting from Device Manager Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. ( Code 43) A request for the USB device descriptor failed.

Ya many issues so far... Mainly that it pics and chooses when it will connect to your Orion. I guess that's why it hasn't been released. I had it working earlier and now using the same pc and same cord it will not connect.

I actually didn't have luck with the supplied cord. And also I think your battery has to be out of the "red" for it to connect without issue. Just guessing but I have had better luck with higher battery.