CanadianCough Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Hi, i just got a lava box on friday (black friday) and no, no correlation between sales and the box, just coincidence. I am having troubles with a bug that i have not been able to find through the search function which isnt actually why im writing this post. Which has to do with the chip not sensing tc coils and having to go through a series of steps to get it reading and working right. The problem I am posting about now is when i get past that bug which im hoping is fixed in an update sometime soon. When i get past the bug and i am connected to escribe i have my temp set to 440 with a preheat of 100w 1s 9punch, i then open the device monitor. when i take a pull the temp jumps to ~330 and creeps up slowly from there, and the temperature set is still 440. the weird part though is that it feels too hot for 440. If i reset temp to 400 it does the same thing on the graph and settles at ~330 but the temp feels different from when it was set to 440, but depending on if i set and reset the temp it hits hotter or warmer, never constant yet its always settling at 330. so tl;dr no matter the temp im setting, the live temp on escribe settles at ~330 and graph still acts as if its reading and performing right if temp was set to 330. Yet temp does not feel correct to what is actually set and isnt constant (hotter/colder if i switch between temps) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Have you set your mod resistance, there is an official Lavabox setting file that has their figure, what you describe is consistent with it reading the resistance a bit high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianCough Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 VapingBad said:Have you set your mod resistance, there is an official Lavabox setting file that has their figure, what you describe is consistent with it reading the resistance a bit high. I was actually reading on it before I left for work this morning. In going to try and get a reading with a copper pin and if I can't I'll use there 0.007 I think it is. Will this really help with a 100 degree temp variance in readings and random temp outputs depending on when I set a temp? I didn't think It was THAT crucial, I know it should be set though. I'll give it a shot tonight, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retird Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 I see in your graph a difference in cold and live ohms in the data (left fields) and live ohms (on graph) seems to be a flat line while vaping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianCough Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 dc601 said:I see in your graph a difference in cold and live ohms in the data (left fields) and live ohms (on graph) seems to be a flat line while vaping. Suggesting? Sorry if that's a stupid question Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retird Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 When the wire heats the resistance should change showing other than a flat line. What wire are you using and what wire setting are you using? Also like said before your device should have the proper settings file. Some devices don't come with the proper settings and proper resistance setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retird Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Tracked down this post....https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/67827-topic/?do=findComment&comment=910541Not sure these numbers are the official ones but just letting you know about this post... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianCough Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 dc601 said:When the wire heats the resistance should change showing other than a flat line. What wire are you using and what wire setting are you using? Also like said before your device should have the proper settings file. Some devices don't come with the proper settings and proper resistance setting. OK yeah I know the lives ohms should move I thought you were just suggesting that it was indicating a certain known problem. I'm using ni200, set to ni200 in escribe. I can take some before screenshots before I change any settings if your interested to see where I'm sitting currently. The only thing messed with was battery themes and a little screen which seemed to give me a bug where screen isn't on for desired Time according tosettings. I saw that thread before I ran into problems and kind of ignored it and couldn't find it again just assuming I had correct settings (dumb I know). Thanks for the link back to it. Again I can post before screens of the settings if your interested before I change tonight. I'll update with any new information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retird Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 You can post whatever screens you feel like posting... others may see something that may help ya out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueridgedog Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 I would verify the wire as well as the mod resistance. Ni has enough of a TCR value that it should show more change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianCough Posted December 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 blueridgedog said:I would verify the wire as well as the mod resistance. Ni has enough of a TCR value that it should show more change.You mean checking the tcr curve of the nickle200 profile in the tab for type of wire? Ive set my mod resistance and now the temp portion is working and settling out within 5 degrees of what is set. Live ohms are barely more than a flat line still and the first hit is always weak like it forgets the settings while it's coming out of sleep. Also now having z problem with extended idle times and COMPLETLY ignore the fact there is a Tc coil on. Doesn't even ask if new coil just gives in Watt mode. Fix one thing create another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueridgedog Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 By verify wire, I mean that it is indeed Ni200 wire.Also, what you are seeing could easily be caused by a hot spot or hot let. A good Ni TC coil is spaced (not touching anywhere) and firmly held in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianCough Posted December 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 blueridgedog said:By verify wire, I mean that it is indeed Ni200 wire.Also, what you are seeing could easily be caused by a hot spot or hot let. A good Ni TC coil is spaced (not touching anywhere) and firmly held in place.Lol yes its ni200, I'm wondering if the curve may be wrong. I'm going to download a csv for nickle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaquith Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 CanadianCough said:...Which has to do with the chip not sensing tc coils and having to go through a series of steps to get it reading and working right. The problem I am posting about now is when i get past that bug which im hoping is fixed in an update sometime soon. When i get past the bug and i am connected to escribe i have my temp set to 440 with a preheat of 100w 1s 9punch, i then open the device monitor. ...Okay first off Evolv's DNA 200 doesn't nor ever will 'auto detect' a TC from Non-TC coils. There's no way to do this considering the huge variety of metals and alloys available. It's not a 'Bug.'Next, other than Ni200 you'll need to upload the correct TCR file(s) for your wire(s) to work properly. Problem, Evolv will only link you to a third-party site eg Steam Engine. Further, what wire is that and the reason I ask is the Resistance change does not look characteristic to Ni200. Ni200 has a near vertical heating and not this 'mountain climbing' curve like what you've posted. Edit: I read the "Lol yes its ni200" .. so IF it is then add more Power; for testing set it to 200W.Describe your Coil(s) (gauge, number of coils, wraps, inner diameter, spaced or not, and material)??Example raw Ni200 coil (using the built-in Ni200 profile): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianCough Posted December 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 Jaquith... said:Okay first off Evolv's DNA 200 doesn't nor ever will 'auto detect' a TC from Non-TC coils. There's no way to do this considering the huge variety of metals and alloys available. It's not a 'Bug.'Next, other than Ni200 you'll need to upload the correct TCR file(s) for your wire(s) to work properly. Problem, Evolv will only link you to a third-party site eg Steam Engine. Further, what wire is that and the reason I ask is the Resistance change does not look characteristic to Ni200. Ni200 has a near vertical heating and not this 'mountain climbing' curve like what you've posted. Edit: I read the "Lol yes its ni200" .. so IF it is then add more Power; for testing set it to 200W.Describe your Coil(s) (gauge, number of coils, wraps, inner diameter, spaced or not, and material)??Example raw Ni200 coil (using the built-in Ni200 profile):i know about uploading csv files for other alloys. i triple checked the factory curve for ni200 with the wire wizard file and its perfect. My Coil is 26g fused clapton (para 26 claptoned with 32 all ni200) 7 wrap no spacing on 2.5mm stud. My coils are going to stay ni200 for a while, i havnet read many good things about other alloys but again i havent done much reading lol. plus ni200 is readily available to meIm not being stupid by just waiting for replys to this thread, i am constantly looking around for answers and different solutions, everything is this thread ive already tried excluding asking if its my coils which is a possibility but ive built 3 different coils all to no avail with the same outcomes on readings and graph output.with this much nickle sitting in a coil is that what is affecting it? doesnt really make sense since ive had a regular spaced coil clapton and fused clapton all read the same (wrong) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaquith Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 CanadianCough said:My Coil is 26g fused clapton (para 26 claptoned with 32 all ni200) 7 wrap no spacing on 2.5mm stud. My coils are going to stay ni200 for a while, i havnet read many good things about other alloys but again i havent done much reading lol. plus ni200 is readily available to meIm not being stupid by just waiting for replys to this thread, i am constantly looking around for answers and different solutions, everything is this thread ive already tried excluding asking if its my coils which is a possibility but ive built 3 different coils all to no avail with the same outcomes on readings and graph output.with this much nickle sitting in a coil is that what is affecting it? doesnt really make sense since ive had a regular spaced coil clapton and fused clapton all read the same (wrong)When you 'mix' metals (Kanthal is an alloy of FeCrAl) and Ni200 you no longer have an accurate (Temperature, Resistance) as with a pure Ni200 coil. I've built Twisted 30/30, 28/28 gauge of Ni200 / Kanthal, and a Clapton of 26 Ni200 with both 30 and 34 gauge Kanthal. They work'ish but require temperature (TCR) adjustment. Adding some Ni200 doesn't make it a magical TC Ni200 coil. What you have is some odd coil with a near flat TCR that I really don't recommend, but here's the info:Calculated TFR - http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-clapton-steamengineFlat curve (Fused 2x26 Kanthal, 1x30 Ni200); the FLAT one is your calculated 'curve': Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianCough Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Jaquith said:When you 'mix' metals (Kanthal is an alloy of FeCrAl) and Ni200 you no longer have an accurate (Temperature, Resistance) as with a pure Ni200 coil. I've built Twisted 30/30, 28/28 gauge of Ni200 / Kanthal, and a Clapton of 26 Ni200 with both 30 and 34 gauge Kanthal. They work'ish but require temperature (TCR) adjustment. Adding some Ni200 doesn't make it a magical TC Ni200 coil. What you have is some weird coil that I really don't recommend, BUT here's the info:Calculated TFR - http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-clapton-steamengineFlat curve (Fused 2x26 Kanthal, 1x30 Ni200); the FLAT one is your calculated 'curve':you used 30g instead of 32 by accident. i recreated the "correct" coil and the resistance in the calc was off by 0.04ish which is a lot i feel. i loaded the tfr curve and my temp is getting closer to desired temp (about 20 degrees higher or so) on graph but still feels hot which is confusing. live ohms still look stable..i really appreciate all the help too by the way, thanks a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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