Hana V200

[MikeTheVapeDude]

It's a sad day.

All of a sudden. Boom. My resistance is ALL OVER the place. Like .3 off. If I take a copper wire and lodge it in one of the screw holes of the case and touch it to the 510 it's mostly fixed (it's .01 off of what it was before now). So what can I do? I'm almost positive the ground is f'd. If I wiggle the positive wire around it comes down and up, but I resoldered it to no avail.

So. Is there anyway I  can properly reground the stock 510 or am I gonna have to tear the 510 out of the box completely like I had originally planned to?

Over-ride ohms is the only way I can vape it right now

EDIT: I have a piece of 14Ga Stranded Copper wire shoved into a section of the case I drilled up into with a very small drill bit ( I drilled up into the screw holes where the backplate screws on) and with that and solder seem to have gotten a pretty decent ground. Though the first chance I get I'm pulling the entire 510 or finding a better ground system. Why is it the 510 will ground to the back plate screw threads but no where else on the case with this method?

[Kevinl86]

I also have a bad ground on my V200.. hook a wire from the 510 to the ground plate and resistance seems to go back to normal. As is, it does not fire.. just says check atty. Sigh..

[MikeTheVapeDude]

I ran a 16 gauge stranded copper wire from the plate that says GRND to the threads of the 510, soldered it up and closed her back up and she's doing fine now.


Edit: All ground issues resolved, mod is working 100%. But I still want a vaporshark, it's so damned sexy. I got a trade set up for a Sigelei 150Tc, a charger and batteries. I have no ill conscious trading the mod now because it works 100% fine and I see no reason it would ever fail now that I got a better ground going on.

[nystyletaco]

Argh, seeing a screen glitch and backlight flicker on the screen when hitting the fire button.  I guess we'll see what Hana is going to do about it.

[Kevinl86]

MikeTheVapeDude said:

I ran a 16 gauge stranded copper wire from the plate that says GRND to the threads of the 510, soldered it up and closed her back up and she's doing fine now.


Edit: All ground issues resolved, mod is working 100%. But I still want a vaporshark, it's so damned sexy. I got a trade set up for a Sigelei 150Tc, a charger and batteries. I have no ill conscious trading the mod now because it works 100% fine and I see no reason it would ever fail now that I got a better ground going on.

Just curious if you could offer any suggestions on getting the solder to stick to the 510 threads? Do you have any pics of your job? I got the wire soldered to the ground plate nicely. I'm using 18ga non copper wire.

[Gm111]

Kevinl86 said:

[QUOTE=MikeTheVapeDude]I ran a 16 gauge stranded copper wire from the plate that says GRND to the threads of the 510, soldered it up and closed her back up and she's doing fine now.


Edit: All ground issues resolved, mod is working 100%. But I still want a vaporshark, it's so damned sexy. I got a trade set up for a Sigelei 150Tc, a charger and batteries. I have no ill conscious trading the mod now because it works 100% fine and I see no reason it would ever fail now that I got a better ground going on.

Just curious if you could offer any suggestions on getting the solder to stick to the 510 threads? Do you have any pics of your job? I got the wire soldered to the ground plate nicely. I'm using 18ga non copper wire.[/QUOTE]

Just tin the 510 and your iron and solder away, you shouldn't be using 18 gauge either, 16 is the minimum and recommended is 14 gauge. 

[Kevinl86]

Thanks! I'll get rid of the 18ga.

[MikeTheVapeDude]

I use 98% Tin 2% Silver Solder and with a good iron, flux paste and tinning it stuck nicely. 16GA Stranded. IT isn't pretty, at all. But it works, and that's all that matters. I'm selling it the day my Vaporshark DNA200 gets in. I hate this mod. So much.

To anyone having ground issues it's seriously very easy to fix, I have no idea why Tom didn't. I used a very short piece of 16 gauge copper wire, bent it so it wouldn't mess with the battery pack's position. I soldered onto the GND plate right next to the OUT plate for the positive 510 wire, then ran it up to the 510 threading, flattened the wire out against it, soldered that in place, then used a pinch of super glue to unsure nothing came undone (purely option). I also completely swapped the stock 510 wire with a piece of 16 gauge silver stranded wire and resoldered it. The mod is now 100% accurate, like dead accurate. It isn't off by an inch. I've since done some things to the 510 to reinforce the threads and now, finally, three weeks later, this beta test crapbox is the way it should've been made and works as it also should.

If Hana is reading this. What is wrong with you people? Your customer support sucks, seriously. You take days to respond to emails and then treat me like a fool and tell me to try a different atomizer. I don't even think the people at Hana vape themselves, let alone test their mods. I feel like 95% of Hana Modz employees are sitting around using EGO Vape pens and throwing together mods, not testing them for more than 5 minutes and shipping them out the door.



The list of errors on this mod:

Horrid 510. I don't care what anyone says. A 510 with skimpy threads that has a 16mm hole? Then a landing pad and a ground plate, AND a stiff pin? Why?

Bad ground. The DNA chip has a ground plate right next to the OUT plate for a very good reason, because it's a better, more accurate ground than the case, which is evidently liable to go out at any moment on one of these mods. I feel it's a matter of when, not if.

Ribbon cable getting pinched on the fire button. Seriously, this should be a no-brainer to avoid. Once again, evidence for ZERO quality control and testing.

JST 10-15amp connectors on a 200W mod. I realize they fixed this, but do they even understand electronics?

Ungodly tight plate screws that are almost impossible to unscrew.

A face plate with a finish that will easily wear off.

Cheap, spinny buttons.

Horrid solder jobs on everything. I touched them all up and I don't even consider myself good at soldering.

Overall bad space management in the case altogether.

Mods with defective chips out of the box.



All these things should NOT be present on a $200 mod. I don't give a rats ass if this is a beta phase, your box should be made well, that's not a beta test, it's general modding. Your customer service is dumb and unhelpful and it always ends with "Send it to our technical support team to diagnose." Yeah, GREAT idea guys. Let's send out $200 mod, paying to do so, to the idiots who couldn't design it right in the first place, for weeks possibly, only to get it back and have it possibly mess up again. Yeah right.

I'll never, ever, ever buy another Hana Modz product again in my entire life. I've said it before and I'll say it again. Vaporshark has always made the best retail DNA mods and probably always will. I'll go back to smoking cigarettes before I give Hana another dollar, even if they make the last mods on the planet and I can't make my own mods. Seriously, this mod is just, junk. The chip is amazing, but the mod is badly designed garbage that we paid $200 to be guinea pigs for. That's all it is guys. We paid $200 so Hana could sit back, count our money and wait on our mods to fail so they could iron out the obvious crap in the final production stage when they could've just TESTED their products.

This company makes bad mods, their support sucks and from what I can tell they have no morals. To anyone reading this. DON'T buy a Hana V200. You might get one that works, but even if it does, it's liable to fail on you at any time and there's just nicer that can be had for the same price or even less.

[mike1256]

I was able to get the stock 510 out of mine.  I took a 1 1/2" long 1/4" bolt and 2 nuts.  1 on either side of the 510 and it broke free.  Did not damage any threads in the process either.  Still haven't decided if its worth the trouble trying to get this one properly grounded or going in with a whole new 510.

[Chriskucharik]

I have had my Hana V200 for a couple weeks and everything was fine. All of the sudden as I'm vaping a dual nickel coil on my Bambino everything stopped and now it just says warranty service on the screen. Hooked it up to Escribe and it still is just saying Warranty Service on the screen. Need SERVICE PLEASE!!

[nystyletaco]

Chriskucharik said:

I have had my Hana V200 for a couple weeks and everything was fine. All of the sudden as I'm vaping a dual nickel coil on my Bambino everything stopped and now it just says warranty service on the screen. Hooked it up to Escribe and it still is just saying Warranty Service on the screen. Need SERVICE PLEASE!!

Looks like your mod gets to take a summer vacation to lovely Woodridge, IL. Mine is out for RMA now as well.  They approved the RMA with no fuss, but still remains to be seen how long its going to take them to fix it.

You could try submitting a ticket to the Evolv helpdesk; I know they were looking for mods that were dying in unusual ways and they'll replace it with their reference mod if you wanted to dump the Hana.

[Yerakon]

[Ironic ON] Good Job!  [Ironic OFF] 

The flat pinched between the activation button and the tactile switch. I had to replace the broken display!!!



 

[nicovape]

When you click "Get Information" on your mod, when was your mod configured? Mine was configured on 6th August, and i have no problem for now. Button feels normal.. I hope it won't die on me.

Question guys.. Could you share the measured internal resistance for the Hana modz please?

I used one dripper to make the test, and it showed me 0.015. So i am using 0.011 as mod resistance (80ish % like advised by Evolv guys).

But i tried another dripper and i had different value.. I would be curious to see how much you get? I would like my ohm reader to be as accurate as possible.. because sometimes, the vape is just not warm enough .. i have to lock a higher value manually..

I had same issue before changing mod res..

I am also confused.. with Raw ohms, nominal ohms and cold.. which one should i use to lock my resistance ? assuming i let everything cool down to room temperature of course.. Thanks for any help

[Vapor_King]

Well guys my v200 died today. I was having problems with it locking itself, even mid vape. Then it started to stop holding a charge on cell 3 then the same on cell 1 now it's completely tosted. Won't charge and only turns on if your holding the button down soon as you let go shuts off. It also won't connect to the computer anymore so looks like I'm going to have to get ahold of hana modz Tuesday. It just had to bust on labor day weekend and I didn't have any other mods to vape off of.

[mike1256]

Having a similar issue after switching boxes.  Probably something I did though.

[Rich Smith]

Has anyone sent theirs back and had good service from Hana?

[Noixd]

Top notch CS! Talk to Julia

Rich Smith said:

Has anyone sent theirs back and had good service from Hana?

[nystyletaco]

Rich Smith said:

Has anyone sent theirs back and had good service from Hana?

Just got mine back yesterday.  They replaced it with a whole new unit as far as I can tell.  Took a little bit longer to get back to me then I would have liked (12 calendar days) but there were two weekends plus Labor day in there so I guess I'm not too upset about it.  It was in their hands from Aug 28 to Sep 2.

[Noixd]

Did they replace it with a new production unit? Or same old pre-preproduction?

nystyletaco said:

[QUOTE=Rich Smith]Has anyone sent theirs back and had good service from Hana?

Just got mine back yesterday.  They replaced it with a whole new unit as far as I can tell.  Took a little bit longer to get back to me then I would have liked (12 calendar days) but there were two weekends plus Labor day in there so I guess I'm not too upset about it.  It was in their hands from Aug 28 to Sep 2.[/QUOTE]

[nystyletaco]

Noixd said:

Did they replace it with a new production unit? Or same old pre-preproduction?

Pre-production.  Probably somebody else's refurb.

[Mangiman]

Hello DNA's users, i built my own DNA 200 about 4 days ago, i used my own mitec switchs up/down and Fire, last night my dna box started firing itself, i had to remove the battery so it will stop showing check atomizer after i removed the atomizer, so far i check all three swichts with a multimeter and works fine, the problem comes back when i connect the battery starts on itself and fires itself.... Any help will be appreciate!!!!!