alee132 Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 I also don't get why hana bothered with putting anything on their buttons if they were able to spin. It's the one main reason I wouldn't buy this. I am also waiting on evolv to make the reference case or someone to use it and make it available for bigger battery's. They did this on shapeways and it's great but I want mine to be made of aluminum or some other great metal. Anyways I hate to see all these issues because of hana rushing things and not doing things the right way. As a modder I could tell that was something that had to be addressed just by looking at it within 10 seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomr1088 Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 alee132 said:I also don't get why hana bothered with putting anything on their buttons if they were able to spin. It's the one main reason I wouldn't buy this. I am also waiting on evolv to make the reference case or someone to use it and make it available for bigger battery's. They did this on shapeways and it's great but I want mine to be made of aluminum or some other great metal. Anyways I hate to see all these issues because of hana rushing things and not doing things the right way. As a modder I could tell that was something that had to be addressed just by looking at it within 10 seconds. Is everyone forgetting it's also a beta unit from Hana. Their production model likely will be different from what's available now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laadam Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 Tomr1088 said:[QUOTE=alee132]I also don't get why hana bothered with putting anything on their buttons if they were able to spin. It's the one main reason I wouldn't buy this. I am also waiting on evolv to make the reference case or someone to use it and make it available for bigger battery's. They did this on shapeways and it's great but I want mine to be made of aluminum or some other great metal. Anyways I hate to see all these issues because of hana rushing things and not doing things the right way. As a modder I could tell that was something that had to be addressed just by looking at it within 10 seconds. Is everyone forgetting it's also a beta unit from Hana. Their production model likely will be different from what's available now [/QUOTE]Been meaning to ask because I've seen a statement like this on a couple forums: How do you know this is a beta from Hana? Nothing on their site alludes to this. I was privileged enough to get a response once and they avoided this topic like the plague! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomr1088 Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 laadam said:[QUOTE=Tomr1088][QUOTE=alee132]I also don't get why hana bothered with putting anything on their buttons if they were able to spin. It's the one main reason I wouldn't buy this. I am also waiting on evolv to make the reference case or someone to use it and make it available for bigger battery's. They did this on shapeways and it's great but I want mine to be made of aluminum or some other great metal. Anyways I hate to see all these issues because of hana rushing things and not doing things the right way. As a modder I could tell that was something that had to be addressed just by looking at it within 10 seconds. Is everyone forgetting it's also a beta unit from Hana. Their production model likely will be different from what's available now [/QUOTE]Been meaning to ask because I've seen a statement like this on a couple forums: How do you know this is a beta from Hana? Nothing on their site alludes to this. I was privileged enough to get a response once and they avoided this topic like the plague![/QUOTE] I asked them what would be different in the production model. They said the only difference will be the faceplate. Which very well could be the buttons and that side of the box. Along with wiring changes. They used these for feedback before fully releasing them. That's why there was only a limited number for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordbyron77 Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 I am puzzled by the timing of management problems. Even considering the time zone, the timing of the one (useless) reply that I had, requested a working day and now I am still waiting for a permanent solution to my problem.When I buy a product I buy also the assistance, and in this case I'm not getting in the right timeframe.I hope to use a V200 fully functional in September Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 Sorry, I just got back from being out two days (Yesterday was my anniversary)The solder joints that seems to just stick out of the connector, can someone get me a picture? It sounds like a cold joint, or not pre-tinning the wire, or no flux. That could cause a bad connection, and the great downfall of all TCR based temperature controlled mods is bad connections. Talking to Hana, it seems like they're improving the build with every batch, so that's promising unless you end up with one from an early batch that's acting up. And I can trade dead ones for reference designs like I offered in another thread. Working my way through the forums now, then I'll take care of the PMs. For the guy who is getting unsteady cell readings, can you measure the cells directly with a multimeter to see if it is the pack, the board or the connections? Might be worth re-seating the main battery connector too in case it just melted out of making good contact due to heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monster92 Posted August 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 John said:Sorry, I just got back from being out two days (Yesterday was my anniversary)The solder joints that seems to just stick out of the connector, can someone get me a picture? It sounds like a cold joint, or not pre-tinning the wire, or no flux. That could cause a bad connection, and the great downfall of all TCR based temperature controlled mods is bad connections. Talking to Hana, it seems like they're improving the build with every batch, so that's promising unless you end up with one from an early batch that's acting up. And I can trade dead ones for reference designs like I offered in another thread. Working my way through the forums now, then I'll take care of the PMs. For the guy who is getting unsteady cell readings, can you measure the cells directly with a multimeter to see if it is the pack, the board or the connections? Might be worth re-seating the main battery connector too in case it just melted out of making good contact due to heat. No worries john! Hope you had a good mini vacation!(: I get my Hana v200 today any minute haha. I'll open it up john and take some pictures for you. Anything specific you'd like up close of the device? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 Well, no, not unless you area having problems with the resistance readings shifting or climbing. Really it is only pictures of devices having problems that are exciting to me. Last I hears Hana has done 450 of them, and as this thread isn't 450 posts long, my hope is that most are working swimmingly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomr1088 Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 The problem with the 510 is indeed an not tinned wire. I left mine because I don't wanna ruin the 510 because I don't know how to get another one from Hana. But the wire was not pre tinned well enough. Wish I took pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomr1088 Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 John I can confirm that my home built dna200 and my sxmini read my current build at .04 ohm. But my Hana always reads .06. Now can this be sorted with software or mod resistance or am I going to have to re solder the 510 somehow. I will get pics later on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakek Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 For the guy who is getting unsteady cell readings, can you measure the cells directly with a multimeter to see if it is the pack, the board or the connections? Might be worth re-seating the main battery connector too in case it just melted out of making good contact due to heat.I CAN do this... but I don't own a multimeter. I hadn't planned on doing any work at all on the mod - it just seemed like a better option than sending it back in to Hana.And I can trade dead ones for reference designs like I offered in another thread. Working my way through the forums now, then I'll take care of the PMs.To be perfectly honest, this sounds like a much more attractive option to me, if the offer still stands. It does appear to be a somewhat novel failure, since I haven't found anyone else online with this exact issue (yet). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wake-N-Vape Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 Hello Everybody! Well, I unfortunately have another Hana V200 failure to report. I received my device yesterday and have had it running for around 20 hours now. While the device screen still functions perfectly (for now), I did discover yet another 510 related problem. The first device I screwed on was a Tugboat V2, and I immediately noticed that the 510 pin in the mod was crooked, and had very tight tension on it. Once I screwed down the atty, the 510 Pin did not spring back up as a normal spring loaded 510 pin should. This is just part one of the problem...Part 2: Because of the wonky 510 pin, I am also unable to get a consistent vape or consistent ohm readings on my atomizers (with Titanium GR1 & Steam Enginge TFR values - which is all I have tried). I have two DNA 40 devices that both report the correct resistance of the atomizer, but the V200 is consistently lower (around 0.02-0.05 depending on how it feels at any given moment). Because of this, Temp Protection kicks in almost immediately and does not allow me to get a sufficient amount of vapor. My guess is that the positive connection on the atomizer is not making a solid connection to the Hana's 510 pin... So, needless to say... At this point, I have an unusable V200 which will be going back to Hana hopefully sooner rather than later. I just thought I would share my experience here since I had not read of this specific issue as of yet... And of course, add one more to the list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alee132 Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 Wake-N-Vape said:Hello Everybody! Well, I unfortunately have another Hana V200 failure to report. I received my device yesterday and have had it running for around 20 hours now. While the device screen still functions perfectly (for now), I did discover yet another 510 related problem. The first device I screwed on was a Tugboat V2, and I immediately noticed that the 510 pin in the mod was crooked, and had very tight tension on it. Once I screwed down the atty, the 510 Pin did not spring back up as a normal spring loaded 510 pin should. This is just part one of the problem...Part 2: Because of the wonky 510 pin, I am also unable to get a consistent vape or consistent ohm readings on my atomizers (with Titanium GR1 & Steam Enginge TFR values - which is all I have tried). I have two DNA 40 devices that both report the correct resistance of the atomizer, but the V200 is consistently lower (around 0.02-0.05 depending on how it feels at any given moment). Because of this, Temp Protection kicks in almost immediately and does not allow me to get a sufficient amount of vapor. My guess is that the positive connection on the atomizer is not making a solid connection to the Hana's 510 pin... So, needless to say... At this point, I have an unusable V200 which will be going back to Hana hopefully sooner rather than later. I just thought I would share my experience here since I had not read of this specific issue as of yet... And of course, add one more to the list.I bet its because its getting pushed down against the battery and gets stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 A stuck battery wouldn't make it read too low... bad connections should always be too much resistance. Is there maybe a stray wire from the positive output lead that didn't make it into the center pin's solder cup and is periodically shorting to other things? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomr1088 Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 John said:A stuck battery wouldn't make it read too low... bad connections should always be too much resistance. Is there maybe a stray wire from the positive output lead that didn't make it into the center pin's solder cup and is periodically shorting to other things? Just messaged you. Mine is now just reading erraticly high and randomly right. But I'm gonna try and redo the 510 with silicone wire. But idk how to take apart the 510. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordbyron77 Posted August 6, 2015 Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 John said:Well, no, not unless you area having problems with the resistance readings shifting or climbing. Really it is only pictures of devices having problems that are exciting to me. Last I hears Hana has done 450 of them, and as this thread isn't 450 posts long, my hope is that most are working swimmingly. I can't take pictures because one of the fuor screws is too tight, and I can't unscrew it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomr1088 Posted August 6, 2015 Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 lordbyron77 said:[QUOTE=John]Well, no, not unless you area having problems with the resistance readings shifting or climbing. Really it is only pictures of devices having problems that are exciting to me. Last I hears Hana has done 450 of them, and as this thread isn't 450 posts long, my hope is that most are working swimmingly. I can't take pictures because one of the fuor screws is too tight, and I can't unscrew it [/QUOTE] Yea one of mine was pretty tight. Gave it a quick snap and it cracked loose. But it felt like it broke but didn't. It's cause there long screws and they flex when u try to turn them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monster92 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 John said:A stuck battery wouldn't make it read too low... bad connections should always be too much resistance. Is there maybe a stray wire from the positive output lead that didn't make it into the center pin's solder cup and is periodically shorting to other things? Hey john! Just got mine in the mail. It seems as if they're soldering on the battery connection now. The screen was just fine so they fixed that on mine. As for the 510 it looks like they didn't tin the wire before sliding it in. As you can see. One last thing, when I screw on an atty it is extremely tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomr1088 Posted August 6, 2015 Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 Exactly what mine looked like. I'm afraid about messing with it. I put my bullet connectors for battery but I think from moving the board a lot fixing the screen and whatnot it's making my resistance readings go nuts. Prob cause the wire is so stiff to the 510 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monster92 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 Tomr1088 said:Exactly what mine looked like. I'm afraid about messing with it. I put my bullet connectors for battery but I think from moving the board a lot fixing the screen and whatnot it's making my resistance readings go nuts. Prob cause the wire is so stiff to the 510 As far as the sloder job goes. It sucks. They did a horrible job with the 510. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wake-N-Vape Posted August 6, 2015 Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 Hey john! Just got mine in the mail. It seems as if they're soldering on the battery connection now. The screen was just fine so they fixed that on mine. As for the 510 it looks like they didn't tin the wire before sliding it in. As you can see. One last thing, when I screw on an atty it is extremely tight. Well, I went ahead and got brave and cracked her open to see if I could figure out what is going on. I can also confirm that my positive and negative wires have also been soldered directly to the board as Monster mentioned. After cracking mine open, I noticed a loosely hanging circlip (photos) inside the case near the 510 connection. It appears that it has somehow pushed itself out of the detent that holds it in place which allowed the 510 pin to push down, but not return to the up position. After replacing the circlip, I can confirm that the vape is more consistent, and not giving me such bad resistance readings on my attys. However, it is still reading about 0.01 lower than my DNA 40's, but does not seem to make much difference in the vape quality at this point. The 510 Pin is still very stiff, and does not have much springiness to it at all? Hard to even call it a spring loaded 510 at this point... It does move up and down, but just barely. Upon reseating the circlip, the 510 pin is now straight without being crooked. I have attached some photos showing how the atty sat on the mod before the fix. Now, it sits flush as it should.Although my devices attach, something tells me that the circlip will dislodge itself again at some point in the future since the detent does not seem to securely hold it in place (and it popped out of place a few times trying to just put it back in). I can also confirm that the solder job is pretty bad at the 510, but does at least appear to be solid. My guess is The metal circlip was touching the exposed positive wire when it fell off causing most of the weird resistance readings. So, I suppose be on the look out for that issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monster92 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 Wake-N-Vape yup mine looked the same except for the c-clip. I'll be on watch for this to happen. I just wish they used a regular 510 so I could swap it out lol. Did your screen seem to be okay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wake-N-Vape Posted August 6, 2015 Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 Monster, yep, so far my screen seems to be ok... I did not take the board screws out to physically check it out, but I would guess that it is probably ok seeing the positive and negative leads are soldered to the board. Hopefully they started doing that after fixing the screen issues? But, I am definitely on the look out for any weird happenings with the screen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monster92 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 Only time will tell... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomr1088 Posted August 6, 2015 Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 Wake-N-Vape said:Monster, yep, so far my screen seems to be ok... I did not take the board screws out to physically check it out, but I would guess that it is probably ok seeing the positive and negative leads are soldered to the board. Hopefully they started doing that after fixing the screen issues? But, I am definitely on the look out for any weird happenings with the screen. Can u confirm if removing that circlip will allow me to side the 510 pin out for soldering a new wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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