When in Device Monitor, No temp is showing.

[LarryLenz]

Hi.  As the screenshot shows, I take 2 hits of my hCigar VT200 running a Kanger SubTank Mini with a 0.21 ohm NI200 coil.  The mods works great with this tank, but when I check it out with Device Monitor I get no temp readings while firing.  I've tried 3 other tanks with the same results.

Any ideas why this is happening to me?     thank you in advance.


 

[nismith8]

I had the same thing happen to me last night, I also noticed the cold ohms on mine kept changing and the live ohms stayed at '?'. Not sure exactly how I fixed it, but I used the set temp button in device monitor to set it to 600f and pushed the fire button a few times and all of a sudden it started working. 

[LarryLenz]

Thanks nismith8 .   I'll give it a shot.  

OK set the temp in Device Monitor to 600 deg F, took two hits and set it back to 350 deg F and still no Actual temp while vaping. Hmmmmm

********************
UPDATE:
********************

I set up a profile for the Kanger SubTank Mini, uploaded it to my mod, and selected this profile.  Ran the test again and it worked.  Go figure.  All the setting were the exact same.  It is Working Perfectly NOW  lol      See Screenshot.

 

[HugeEgo]

Just curious, are you using F or Celsius?  If you're using Fahrenheit, then that must be a pretty cold vape at 250°.

[nismith8]

You know, now that you mention that, I was having problems with the default profile too. Made a new profile for my uwell crown nickel coils and it started working. Huh.

[LarryLenz]

HugeEgo, it is a very cool vape with tons of vapor.  That is what I like.  I can't stand hot vapes.  And it says Fahrenheit on the screenshot, so Yeah... Fahrenheit lol

nismith8 , it's all good.  Thanks for trying anyway   I do appreciate all the help.  And the Uwell Crown with NI200 is my favorite tank.  Ordered some SS 316L to try.  I'm hoping that will be even better.
 

[Spector NS5 RD]

try someþing run atty analuzer on your subtank. most subtanks are garbage for tc. unstable. i had three mini st's one of em works good for tc. someþing with the design of em is wrong. what gauge is your ni? how many wraps? i'm guessing yoir base res is closer to .1 something and not .218. which would be loose conn somewhere.

[HugeEgo]

LarryLenz said:

HugeEgo, it is a very cool vape with tons of vapor.  That is what I like.  I can't stand hot vapes.  And it says Fahrenheit on the screenshot, so Yeah... Fahrenheit lol

nismith8 , it's all good.  Thanks for trying anyway   I do appreciate all the help.  And the Uwell Crown with NI200 is my favorite tank.  Ordered some SS 316L to try.  I'm hoping that will be even better.
 

The reason I commented about your temps is because I am quite certain that unless you are vaping distilled water, you are not going to get any vapor at 250F.  Just won't happen.  The boiling point of PG is 380F and the boiling point of VG is about 554F.  A mixture of the two will fall somewhere in between.

This means that your coil is screwed up somehow or your tank is not making a good connection and is messing up the resistance reading on the DNA.  Are you using the Kanger Ni-200 stock coils?

TL;DR -- You're not vaping at 250F.  The reading on device monitor is wrong.  There is a problem with your tank or coil.

[black lace]

Thoes subtanks have a floating type center pin, you screw your coil or build deck in and it only just touches if your lucky, after use the slightest knock disturbs it, same for the lemmo v2, very poor connections, i poped the centre pins on mine out and put a blob of solder on the end that touches the bottom of coil or deck, its a much firmer contact. The wicking in prebuilt coils is allways to tight, you need to drag half of it out to get some decent juice flow. The wire for these coils is so thin it distorts after a few tank loads,, to get mine to work to any degree of reliability i only use the build deck and have also ground out the juice channels three times over standard size and i dont use anything less than :32mm 28awg ni200 6 or 7 wraps on a 2:50 mm mandrill. It will knock a prebuilt coil into a cocked hat.

[LarryLenz]

HugeEgo said:

The reason I commented about your temps is because I am quite certain that unless you are vaping distilled water, you are not going to get any vapor at 250F.  Just won't happen.  The boiling point of PG is 380F and the boiling point of VG is about 554F.  A mixture of the two will fall somewhere in between.

This means that your coil is screwed up somehow or your tank is not making a good connection and is messing up the resistance reading on the DNA.  Are you using the Kanger Ni-200 stock coils?

TL;DR -- You're not vaping at 250F.  The reading on device monitor is wrong.  There is a problem with your tank or coil.

HugeEgo, I am vaping at 350F but it only goes to 250F.  On my 3rd juice fill on this coil and it goes up to around 280F.  I'm using the RBA section with an NI200 28 guage 6 wrap coil I made.  You can give me all your technical reason why I shouldn't be getting any vapor, but I'm getting great vapor.  My juice is 60%VG - 40%PG.  It is a very stable coil and never sets off the Temp warning on my mod.  I made this post to get assistance on my Escribe software, not for you to tell me I'm not getting any vapor.  I'm getting lots of nice cool vapor, just like I like it.  I'm not going to take a video and post it of the vapor production I'm getting just for YOU.  Please just drop it.

[retird]

Temp set to 350F and only reaching 250F.  Noticed your wattage set at 20 watts... Try turning up the wattage and see how it responds on the graph.

[black lace]

I cant remember the wattage i vaped mine at on a simular coil build, simular juice viscus, but set at 450 never reaching it. It would have been less than 30 watt though, See what the program does with a different attomiser or overwrite the program. Just thoes center pins give a poor connection and send everything off.

[Spirometry]

Post #1 there is no temp reading because it is firing in power mode. If the mod doesn't see a rise in resistance it will switch to power mode. You have to remove the atty to force a new base resistance (uploading a new profile will also force a recheck)

Post #2 Things definitely aren't working perfectly now. Your coil is not 280F because 280f is not hot enough to produce vapor. Your mod clearly has the wrong base resistance.

[mactavish]

dc601 said:

Temp set to 350F and only reaching 250F.  Noticed your wattage set at 20 watts... Try turning up the wattage and see how it responds on the graph.

Exactly, folks keep thinking the "temp protect" message is a warning, better to think of it as CONFIRMATION that you achieved the temperature you set your device to! If you like a cooler vape, lower your temp, but set your wattage to at least obtain it. I can't speak toward the possible connection issues, as I would correct one issue at a time.

[LarryLenz]

I will be checking my resistance when Bob's adapter arrives.  I just purchased one to do the testing.

Thank you all for you concern and help determining any issues I may be having.  I'll let you all know once I do all the test and set the mod up properly.  I think it is pretty sad that hCigar doesn't take the time to set up their mods before they ship them.  That is a big negative in my book.

Spirometry.  You just might be right.  It all looked correct on the mod display.

mactavish.  When my mod reaches the temp I set it at, it starts to stop firing.  But this doesn't happen every time.  If it is flashing"Temp Protect", sometime it won't even fire when I hit the fire button.  I have to do the final tests and set the mod correctly to be sure.  So until then, I will just fight my way through

dc601.  When i changed the watts to 30, the temp does go up, but the vapor is to harsh for me.  So I lowered the temp from 350F to 300F.  Save vape, and it never give me the "Temp Protect" message.

[black lace]

Usualy only the simplest thing, if your confident it aint the coil or dry wicking, and your coil aint shorting against the top of the chimney,, have you looked inside the mod at your fire wire, power out to spring loaded center pin, ive had a few so called high end 510 connectors whose name i wont mention, where the bottom has dropped off, so the wire is just rattling around. Also the subtank has quite a long male end 510 to screw in, so anouther possibility that it may have forced the spring loaded center clean away on the inside of mod and so intermitantly shorting against ground when you fire, giving a reading on escribe, but nothing at the buissines end.