Ni200 coils lots of ohm fluctuation

[VapingDragon]

I picked up some Aspire trition 0.15Ohm ni200 coils for my driving tank, Project sub-ohm saucecode.
First I'll say the pack I got are labeled 0.15Ohm, but I've checked 2 of the 5 and both read 0.22Ohms on an ohm meter and on my Efusion.
Just working the first one in and it will actually drop ohms and ask new coil every time I adjust settings in Escribe. ex:0.22Ohm coil will drop to 0.20ohm after I upload settings and fire the first time asking new coil.
To add to my confusion now after vaping and letting the tank sit for an hour or so now the ohms read 0.34. Vape on it, take the tank off and put it back on and get prompted new coil and ohms drop to 0.27, Anyone know whats going on?
Should I lock the Ohms for an ni200 coil when its first used? Kind of confused on this as I've read to not lock a dna200 for it to be accurate.
Really appreciate any input to this issue.
Edit: To add to the confusion the coil keeps dropping out of temp control between vapes and will only go back into temp control if I lock the Ohm's.

[black lace]

Screw in type prebuilt coil, center pin probly aint making a very good contact with the floating 510 center pin in the bottom of the atty. Hope that aint as clear as mud, the bottom of your screw in coil isnt making a FIRM CONTACT with the attomisers 510 centerpin

[retird]

I use those Aspire coils exclusively with authentic Aspire tanks.  Mine always read 0.15/0.14 cold.  Solid as a rock.  Are you sure the coils are authentic Aspire coils and your tank may not be completely compatible with the Aspire coil head? And what black lace said...

[VapingDragon]

Thanks for the reply's. I checked the code on the box and the coils are authentic.
I'll try cleaning up the pin in the base of the tank. I've used other aspire coils in it just fine in the past and they have read correctly.
I know the coil head is making contact with the pin as I can push the pin in and when installing the coil it pushes back out. Now how good of a connection I'm not sure so I'll start there.
Thanks again.

[black lace]

You sound about right with the centerpin, i know it might sound barmy but why not try soaking a coil in juice overnight, and see how that performs for a few hits, they may be a tightly wicked batch and not flowing very well, have you changed your vg ratio, The only dealings ive had with aspire tanks is one my daughter had, that had a spring loaded base pin, i imagin that would could create a promlem on a tc mod.. every time i ajust wattage and temp when connected to escribe and upload and vape still connected it asks new coil yes or no, that aint an issue.. also is the coil coming into contact with anything, obviously visual inspect coils arnt touching, when asembled is the chimney of atty touching it..what happens when you build your own ni200 coil on the deck that comes with it..

[VapingDragon]

I've tried cleaning the base up on the tank and I'm getting practically the same results with another coil. So that's 3 coils out of a 5 pack I've tried all read 0.22-0.23Ohms. Ohms jump up and kick out of temp control between uses.
Maybe I should try the atty lock and override the Ohms and set it to the 0.15Ohms they should be. From what I've gathered reading evolvs info tanks may need that.

[retird]

What DNA200 device do you have?

[VapingDragon]

I've got the Lost Vape Efusion.

[black lace]

Are you certain ypu got ni coils, dont they usualy have somthing stamped on them??

[VapingDragon]

The coils have NI200 0.15Ohm stamped on them. Hate to have to buy another tank to try these coils in, but I'm really wondering if its the tank its self causing a higher resistance and the issues. 
I've used non temp Atlantis coil heads in it in the past without issues, but that's not to say it's the same with these ni200 Trition coils.

[retird]

So the Efusion has the proper settings from the manufacturer (or you ran the analyzers and set it up yourself)?  Many things can cause what you are getting.  Process of elimination.  I've ran probably at least 40 temp and non-temp Aspire coils in a set of Atlantis tanks.  What is strangest of all is that you let the device rest for an hour and the ohm's goes to 0.34.  Cold ohm's at 0.20 or 0.22 going to 0.34 when the coil is cold also at 0.34.  

Would be curious what ohm reading you will get by taking off the tank and coil and screwing the base only into the device.  Measure the ohm's with your ohm meter while not firing the device. You will need to put downward pressure on the center pin of the atty base with the ohm meter lead so you get a good connection at the center pin since the coil is not screwed into the base. You can then use the atty analyzer while putting pressure on the center pin while looking at the Device monitor but you will need to put pressure before connecting the device to Escribe and running the analyzer.

The resistance swing of the coil while I vape it varies 0.12 ohms. My vaping resistance goes from 0.15 to 0.27 while vaping and reaching temp limit. My profile setting is pre-heat = 100, punch =5, temp setting 400F, wattage setting= 24.1 and e-liquid is 70/30 VG/PG.

My thoughts on possibilities:

1. Efusion mod settings not correct.
2. Poor grounding in the device.
3. Cold solder joints (maybe at the 510).
4. Poor connection between the 510 and tank 510 connection.
5. Poor or improper fit of the coil head into the atty base. (Aspire coil fit issue with a non-Aspire tank).
6. Defective batch of Aspire coils. (least possibility according to my experience).

Best guesses at this point.

[VapingDragon]

DC601 I'll try checking just the base of the tank as you've suggested.
First thing I did when I got the Efusion was update its firmware and install the settings file Evolv provided for it. 

[black lace]

Just as a shot in the dark are your batterys ok, ballanced ect..

[SiNiST3R]

Why my post deleted?!?!?!?! Whats that about? No rules broken, not mean or rude, what gives?!?!?!?! That is terrible forum management, its got me pretty upset as a customer.

[black lace]

Sos thought you was someone els, if your on mobile and add emoticons it dosent go through.

[one4peace]

I've essentially the same issue, but with Kanger SubTank coils.

My first TC mod was a Pioneer 4 You ipv4, and it has "worked" well for me, but it is just too bulky and cheaply made, plus the screen too difficult to read. So, I also purchased a Joyetech eVic-VT, and that's where the issue began. The eVic-VT would read the coil, Ni200 - 0.15, correctly (most of the time) and a vaping I would go. But, if I set the mod down for 10 - 15 minutes when I came back to it vapor production had dropped significantly. Checking the settings when that happened I saw that the eVic-VT now was reading the coil at 0.12 or 0.13. Soon I learned how to puff a time or two at this lower reading, unscrew the tank at the 510, and when I screwed it immediately back on the eVic-VT would read it at 0.15 - 0.17. I would then lock the Ohms on the VT and return to good vapor production and vaping. However, again, setting the mod down for 10 - 15 the whole scenario would happen again (wash, rinse, repeat). It seems, unlike the ipv4 (upon which my Kanger tanks and Ni coils work just fine), that the eVic-VT Ohms lock was useless, or hard wired to a much lower percentage than the default 25% range of our DNA200s. So, I returned the eVic-VT under warranty but the replacement did the same thing. In speaking with my online retail rep., he told me that the eVic-VT works much better with Ti coils, so I purchased a Joyetech ONE Mega tank and a five pack of Ti - 0.4 coils. Nothing changed; I experienced the same issue with the Ti as I had with the Ni. As information: I run the ipv4 at 30 Joules, 410 F, with the Ohms locked at 0.15 (for Ni200), and I tried to use the same settings on the eVic-VT (watts instead of Joules).

Well, the eVic-VT soon became a paperweight and I stuck with vaping the ipv4. That was until over the holidays when I dropped it (ahhhgain). As I was on travel, I located the nearest B&M—thank goodness for smartphones—and decided to purchase a Wismec Reuleaux RX200 (the only DNA200 they had was the Volcano LavaBox at $120 more). I was back at the B&M the next day exchanging the RX200 for the LavaBox, as the RX200 acted much the same way as the eVic-VT. During the exchange, I also purchased a new package of five Kanger OCC Ni200 - 0.15 coils, and certified them online as authentic. (I had packed two extra Kanger Ni200 - 0.15 coils, bringing them with me from home, and the RX200 blew both of them at first install. "Sizzle - pop," said the first coil, and I thought, "Oh, a bad coil." "Sizzle - pop," said the second coil, and I thought, "Oh, this RX200 is another potential paperweight.")

Now, I'm having similar experience with my two DNA200s (I purchased a Reuleaux DNA200 online after I returned home). At first I tried using the same trick as with the eVic-VT: taking a puff, unscrewing the tank just to screw it back on to get a higher Ohms reading, and then Ohms locking the higher reading. Now though, I've decided to change my settings to 50 watts, 500 F, and no Ohms lock; I let the board read and adjust to whatever resistance it sees. As I write this, I'm vaping my LavaBox (50 watts, 500 F, no lock) and it is reading a three day old, authenticated Kanger Ni200 - 0.15 coil, installed in a new, authenticated Kanger SubTank (which I connected at room temp.) as having 0.23 Ohms resistance. While vapor production at these settings is great, the vapor is just a little too warm for my tastes. But, if I lower the temperature setting vapor production suffers. Hopefully soon I'll find that happy medium... BRB...

My tank went dry and I had to go refill it. The LavaBox now is reading 0.22 Ohms for the refilled tank. This is perfect! Good vapor production and not too warm. But, hold on, now I'm getting a "Weak Battery" warning. LOL! I never would have thought stopping smoking, which I did two years ago (and with an original Joyetech eVic no less), would be this complicated; difficult yes, but this complicated?

[awsum140]

As a general observation, tanks with replaceable coils will produce flucuating resistance readings.  In the "old days", before TC, flucuations of a few tenths of an ohm didn't mean a whole heck of a lot, but with the very low resistance that TC works at, any variations will be dramatically amplified.  I'd suggest a decent RTA rather than fooling with replaceable head tanks.  YMMV.

[one4peace]

I'd suggest a decent RTA rather than fooling with replaceable head tanks.  YMMV.

I'll try that next; thanks awsum! I've a few eLeaf Lemo IIs that do great with kanthal. I just hate working with Ni200 wire. Maybe I'll dig the hand-drill out this afternoon and twist a length of 30ga Ni200 and 30ga kanthal together; I've heard it's easier to coil.

[awsum140]

I'd suggest using 28 gauge, Ti is my favorite over Ni, anneal it staying in the "blue" color range, clean thoroughly, then, wrap the coil.  I've done twisted 30 and 28 gauge, both strands Ti, and they perform very well.

[black lace]

awsum140 said:

As a general observation, tanks with replaceable coils will produce flucuating resistance readings.  In the "old days", before TC, flucuations of a few tenths of an ohm didn't mean a whole heck of a lot, but with the very low resistance that TC works at, any variations will be dramatically amplified.  I'd suggest a decent RTA rather than fooling with replaceable head tanks.  YMMV.

 I agree, it was the very first thing they emphasized, back to the DNA40, a sound solid connection..

[retird]

awsum140 said:

As a general observation, tanks with replaceable coils will produce flucuating resistance readings.  In the "old days", before TC, flucuations of a few tenths of an ohm didn't mean a whole heck of a lot, but with the very low resistance that TC works at, any variations will be dramatically amplified.  I'd suggest a decent RTA rather than fooling with replaceable head tanks.  YMMV.

In real life experience replaceable coils (both Ni and Kanthal) in my tanks are rock solid.  Have been since July on a 200 and before on the 40 and 25..  That is all I vape.  I like it simple and fiddle free and consistent.  More of one's preference than anything else for me and with a quality tank/coil it is a non-issue.  I prefer replaceable coils and some prefer RTA's and all is good.

[awsum140]

I guess it can depend on the exact "head" in use.  Many rely on the friction of a silicon washer/grommet to provide a ground connection.  That is fraught with problems.  I've had kanthal coil heads go from a measured, before wrapping, of 2.0 ohms to 3.2 ohms once installed.  Then, hit it with some power and it drops down to 2.1 ohms.  Crappy connections are the culprit and that is at the mercy of the way the head is actually built.  Heck, even in an RTA/RDA resistance can, and sometimes does, fluctuate.  At least with them it can be fixed simly by tightening the screws for the coil mount, unless it's center post related of course.

[black lace]

dc601, faire comment, but you know what is going wrong when you get a bad one,,, regarding early users,, hope to use the temp side of the mod, been told this and that will fit in there, then when it don't work start blaming all manner of things,, its not relay my cleach'e saying but a ""learning curve""  understanding what's going on with a coil and wicking with some hands on practice I think is beneficial, most higher end replaceable coil attys these days also come with a mini build deck, sheet of jap cotton, a foot of wire, and a horrible little screwdriver, I find it puzzling that a person will seek out a been told compatible prebuilt coil to save a few bob over the manufacturers, when there are materials still in the box..

[retird]

Yep black lace the first tank w/ replaceable TC coils I tried way back in the day was a disaster, both the RTA deck and the replaceable coils.  Ohm's floating about like butterflies and was very frustrating.  Went thru the routine of checking everything from solder joints to grounding to 510 connections and etc. etc. etc..  A quality device married with a quality tank utilizing a quality RTA and quality replaceable coils is the key. The "learning curve" is a process and tho frustrating at times we all manage to get through it. 

[black lace]

Well if the op aint got it sorted by now, he'l have to get someone to drag the 510 spring out and find a heavier one..