DutchErt3 Posted January 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 I've tried ni200, making claptons was essentially required for vapor production, often older coils would hve to be all but submerged to fire.Currettly using Ti01, even coil sizing is an absolute must, much lower guages available for builds, now addicted to claption build. dirty coils can end up with the near submerged reuquirement, verry little flavor interference. I have some Nife30 from the UK (stealth vape) sofar it feels good like Ti, and the building was easy enough. I will say the break in time was a bit of a downside.not sure about stainless I've heard some rather damning talk about flavor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwcraig1 Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 I use Ti and the various NiFe's. Nife 48 (52) is real good, almost like building with Kanthal. Just my opinion though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spector NS5 RD Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 DutchErt3 said:I've tried ni200, making claptons was essentially required for vapor production, often older coils would hve to be all but submerged to fire.Currettly using Ti01, even coil sizing is an absolute must, much lower guages available for builds, now addicted to claption build. dirty coils can end up with the near submerged reuquirement, verry little flavor interference. I have some Nife30 inbound from the UK (stealth vape) so I'm going to try that next, not sure about stainless I've heard some rather damning talk about flavor.submerged? as in downed in eliquid? i've got SS, nife, Ti, and Ni. for some reason, whenever i get a new rta/rda i put a Ti build in it to start off. Ti just behaves for me. SS has been gaining favor with me lately. i'll probably do a few more builds with SS in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 I'm sold on Ti works in the kanger tanks and my Goliath 30mm rda and probably my future VCMT 30mm rta when it's back in stock next week or so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony2tone Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 I need some help hear. I am not new to temp control. but I keep getting burnt cotton. I am using 24 guage nickle sigle coild, in a plume on the wismec. Right now I ahave 3.5mm wraped 8 times ohm 0.06, 75 watts 415 degrees. Dry burn is fine, but as soon as juice hits it, burn and burn taste. I have tried different sizes .2.5, 3 mm no luck. any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DutchErt3 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 tony2tone said:I need some help hear. I am not new to temp control. but I keep getting burnt cotton. I am using 24 guage nickle sigle coild, in a plume on the wismec. Right now I ahave 3.5mm wraped 8 times ohm 0.06, 75 watts 415 degrees. Dry burn is fine, but as soon as juice hits it, burn and burn taste. I have tried different sizes .2.5, 3 mm no luck. any ideas?You might blacken cotton but you should NEVER burn with nickle, run it without a top cap until dry and make sure you're not getting a glow or fire. Use higher gauge wire if you can, its just a requirement of ni200 (if it's too much to work with I recommend going with TI GR1 or 01 ).Make sure your wraps are as identical as possible (you won't get away with 10left 9right)Double check your starting wattage (by default it's 200 and this can cause problems).Also keep your coils clean (this is very important with temp wire) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 IMO most of the time you "blacken cotton" it is the liquid turning black on the surface and not the cotton charring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugeEgo Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 I use Ti and SS (317L and 430). As for nickel, I look at it as "why bother?" I haven't tried any of the NiFe alloys and probably won't because they contain, well, nickel (yes so does 316/317 SS, but in much smaller amounts). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Stainless Steel normally contains Nickel, I have a Nickel allergy and have been vaping Ni200 for well over a year with zero issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisss Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 tony2tone said:I need some help hear. I am not new to temp control. but I keep getting burnt cotton. I am using 24 guage nickle sigle coild, in a plume on the wismec. Right now I ahave 3.5mm wraped 8 times ohm 0.06, 75 watts 415 degrees. Dry burn is fine, but as soon as juice hits it, burn and burn taste. I have tried different sizes .2.5, 3 mm no luck. any ideas?I would check that your mod resistance has been set correctly in escribe. it should be between 0.002-0.01 ohms.this matters much more if you are going super sub ohm like you are. if it should be set at for example 0.006 and your coil comes out at 0.06 that could be a 10% error.if you are not happy setting or measuring the mods resistance, try the temp at 350 degrees and work it up slowly till you get the vape you want.Also make sure your coils are spaced with nickel.if you can get hold of any finer nickel wire that might help or try to get more coils in (problem being more coils are more difficult to keep spaced especially in a plume) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 If you just have/want to use nickel wire, this stuff is a lot easier to work with.https://www.lightningvapes.com/products/tempered-ni200-pure-nickel-wire?variant=5718186437 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugeEgo Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 VapingBad said:Stainless Steel normally contains Nickel, I have a Nickel allergy and have been vaping Ni200 for well over a year with zero issues.Yeah. I don't know why anyone still uses Ni-200, tbh. Can't be dry burned (can't be cleaned), have to recoil every couple days, and it has a super low resistance which is annoying.To each their own, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwcraig1 Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 There are plenty of folks using Ni200 and liking it. I used it early on and did well with it but no longer have the patience too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 [QUOTE=HugeEgo][QUOTE=VapingBad]Stainless Steel normally contains Nickel, I have a Nickel allergy and have been vaping Ni200 for well over a year with zero issues.[/QUOTE]Yeah. I don't know why anyone still uses Ni-200, tbh. Can't be dry burned (can't be cleaned), have to recoil every couple days, and it has a super low resistance which is annoying.To each their own, though.[/QUOTE]I dry burn with the temp set to 600 F, power 3-15 W and wash or steam clean and my coils last months, it was more difficult with the DNA40 due to thinner wire need for dual coils but on gennies they can last months.As you say each to their own, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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