txmonkey214 Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Hi, I opened my Hana V200 to compare it to one I had just purchased. When I did, I found this came off the board (see pics). The mod seems to be working fine in temp mode. Is this just a heat sink? I thought it was an important component. Should I repair it? Superglue? Or, is there an electrical conducting adhesive I should use? Thanks in advance for any information you can give me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwcraig1 Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Best answer:https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black lace Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Sorry to undermine earlier advice but you may save time but also inform evolv,, as far as i remember Its called an inductor and it needs soldering at both sides at the tabs you can see, the mod will work but not fully, ,,, Am on mobile but if you do a search for inductor you may find moor info. Five minit job if you can solder or find someone who can.. like a computre shop, i would do it for ya for a bag of chips. did you buy it second hand?? Or had previouse work?? because it looks like its had earlier work done on it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txmonkey214 Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Thanks, to all. Blacklace, I appreciate the sentiment, and the information. Yes, the 510 and the original wiring were both replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txmonkey214 Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Update: I just set it back in place, for the time being. The battery is right on the board on these things. I opened it back up, and it was still in the same place. I would prefer sending it to evolv for repair over Hana. Not sure what is up with them, anyways. They don't seem to be manufacturing new mods, at all. I wonder if anyone will offer a DNA 250 upgrade service? I might just nurse this one, until that option is available. I'm good at point to point wired tube (Valve, if you prefer) amp circuits, but I'm not equipped to work on small board circuits. So, I am nervous about trying to repair it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black lace Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 As firm as you possibly can then... because its not hard solderd it may get warmer at the frail joints. All the best to ya... Shame if hana have stoped producing/inventing, they prety much set a bench mark for billet aluminium boxes, but the prices where mental ... ""Mental oriental""" lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jurdanas Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Maybe helps: from here http://ecig.eucaly.net/archives/cat_68955.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txmonkey214 Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Jurdanas, Thanks for the info. It looks like it's on the battery side. That is functioning normally, as far as I can tell. Hooking it up to escribe to see if it's running hotter than normal. It isn't. 91-98F. It can get up to 150F, and still be in normal range.I don't understand circuits that well, unless they're made of caps and resistors. My guitar amps are all pre-Space Age technology. I'm an Art Historian, so this is a little out of my field, but I love my hobbies. And, I come from a family of scientists, and engineers. So, I'm a little better rounded than most people in the Humanities. This appears to be a miniaturized induction coil. Not familiar with them, in this form. But, it should work the same as larger scale coils. black lace, it has been running like this for maybe 2 months. I tend to vape at relatively low wattage. never over 80 watts. There is a groove where the inductor came off, and slots formed from the solder, i gather, on the inductor. There is so little space in the Hana, so the battery barely fits, and touches the board. Not sure this is good for either of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spector NS5 RD Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 it'll run and charge normal since each buck circuit (2 mosfets & inductor x 2) run independent of each other then joined together at each of their outputs. the "usb power block" jurdanas has labeled is the 1 amp battery charger. think of it like two engines sharing the load. you just blew the head gasket on one engine, leaving you one engine still running......make sense? just open a help ticket with evolv if hana ignores you.as for the battery touching the board, the dna 200 is 97% (with non damaged board) efficient. buck converter circuits tend to be more efficient than boost dc-dc ones. so not much heat is generated when in use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txmonkey214 Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 In my experience, Tim won't ignore you. Others? They only offer 30 day warranties, now. So, they're out of the picture, on this one. I guess I'll be pulling the DNA 40 out of mothballs, and opening a ticket with evolv. Yes, that's a good analogy for it. I have an old Marantz 2230 that runs on mosfet transistors. Smooth as butter, warm as mother's milk. So, I'm both surprised and delighted to see this material in use on the DNA 200. Thanks, CB! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spector NS5 RD Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 txmonkey214 said:In my experience, Tim won't ignore you. Others? They only offer 30 day warranties, now. So, they're out of the picture, on this one. I guess I'll be pulling the DNA 40 out of mothballs, and opening a ticket with evolv. Yes, that's a good analogy for it. I have an old Marantz 2230 that runs on mosfet transistors. Smooth as butter, warm as mother's milk. So, I'm both surprised and delighted to see this material in use on the DNA 200. Thanks, CB!poor dna 40 breathing in all those moth balls! i've been playing bass since i was 13. i'm 33 now. i find i love the warmth a 12ax7 tube preamp gives you over the solid state technology of today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jurdanas Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 I understand. If have a warranty - to Evolve If haven't warranty and there is a desire to repair - soldering(insert and solder).We have hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txmonkey214 Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Yes, indeed! They give a crunchy drive to the power tubes. I have a Fender Princeton, and a beastly Ampeg Gemini II that is the size of a Marshall half stack. Both use 12AX7's in their circuits. They use them in the Ampeg for the reverb and tremolo circuits. Not sure why anyone would ever need to use tremolo. But, it was a popular option in the 1960's. I'm currently playing a Dipinto Mach IV, and a Frankentein fake Chinese Les Paul that I stripped the pickups and electronics out of, and replaced with Gibson Pro's from a Studio Les Paul, and American made pots and NOS Sprague oil in foil caps. Chinese electronics are substandard. Consider their vapes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black lace Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Dont know if its because im just not looking much but i havnt seen a lot in the clone temp control field this past twelve months, might just be too technicaly difficult to do on the cheap.. hana got cloned to death on the vv/vw specialy on fleabay, it was almost a conspiracy to ruin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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