stainless steel and temperature control

[Vaportron]

HugeEgo said:

If you want to use SS, it's best to probably go with 317L, which has the highest corrosion resistance of all (readily available) grades of SS.  316L would be the 2nd best.

What about nickel free (>1%) SS 430 ?

[HugeEgo]

Vaportron said:

[QUOTE=HugeEgo]
If you want to use SS, it's best to probably go with 317L, which has the highest corrosion resistance of all (readily available) grades of SS.  316L would be the 2nd best.

What about nickel free (>1%) SS 430 ?[/QUOTE]

430 has less corrosion resistance than 304/316, but it is nickel free and has a higher TCR.  So, it's a trade-off.

[akatazmanian]

lewisss said:

Hi, just wanted to share some screens from device monitor,
and wonder if anyone can tell me what is going on here.

with NI200 the selected temperature is hit and it remains there nice and steady,
with titanium it gets to the temp and then fluctuates a little
with 317L Stainless it gets to the temp then fluctuates quite wildly

Now the vape on all three is very good so i have no complaints, in fact i prefer the taste of the SS out of all three, and it is a dream to work with.

I am presuming the difference in the charts is because the temp coeficient chart gradients are a lot shallower on the SS therefore the resistance difference between two temperatures is a lot smaller than ni200 or titanium, which would also explain the slight variation on the TI coils.

am i correct in thinking this ?

Thanks in advance

  

[akatazmanian]

Vaping in temperature control using stainless steel always produces a better flavor than when using NI200 or titanium. When using stainless steel for temperature control I always use 26 Gauge 316L. I used to use 24 gauge 317L but found it quite wild in temperature. 26 gauge 316L works very well for me using the Steam Engine wire wizard and the 316L Elite profile to create the CSV for my DNA VT 200.  This produces a much more stable vape in temperature control. You have to remember that a smaller coil like a 3 mm inside diameter 26 gauge coil at 4 1/2 wraps and the wattage turned down to 50 or 45 watts is what works well for temperature control. This is why the Kangertech Subtank is rated as the best tank for temperature control. It has a very small build deck supporting much less wire. Duel coil and large gauge wire do not work well with temperature control because of too much wire. If you do this I guarantee that you will really enjoy vaping stainless steel in temperature control. I run the temperature up at about 410 to 430 degrees using a .33 ohm coil (26 gauge 316L using a 2.5 mm wrapping rod and 4 1/2 wraps then press the the wires ends together to fit it on a 3 mm rod tightly because of the springiness of SS. This will produce a .33 ohm coil. You should wrap the wire so that the wraps are slightly separated by about the thickness of the wire or a little more and break in the coil by glowing it slightly with temperature turned off before wicking it and the temperature will be very consistent and not wild at all and much more flavorful than titanium or NI200.

[VapingBad]

I get great results with 26 AWG SS316L dual 2 mm ID 8/9 wrap coils and the built in profile up to about 50 W, but twisted handles higher power better and IMO gives better flavour due to higher surface area.  With temp limiting and especially SS you have to be very careful to get dual coils balanced extremely closely because the resistance changes the device tracks are so small and of course very good connections.  My favourite SS build ATM is dual coil triple twisted 0.2 mm, 2.5 mm ID 8 wraps, twisted 0.3 mm is almost as good.

[Modbustersecig]

VapingBad said:

I would think you are right and the mass of the coil also affects how smoothly it can be regulated.

I was looking at the version of the software he was using it that not the one that caused problems I'm asking not saying if I'm reading it right it's the 8th month of 2015

[Modbustersecig]

1.2 sp3 will work much better

[ejusu]

On 11/15/2015 at 3:24 AM, Jaquith said:

I guess the files expired, but when I just re-uploaded the identical files now the old links work. Sorry about that! Version 3 - http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-ud-ss316ldjaquithv3 Version 4 - http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-ud-ss316ldjaquithv4

It's been a long time since you wrote this , but do you still have the version 3 or the most accurate version for SS316L coil?

I think the link has been expired.

Edited October 26, 2017 by ejusu

[Wayneo]

The standard evolv offering works. Jaquith hasn't posted in probably a year. That file was for his batch of UD wire. Stainless Steel is an alloy. There is NO most accurate version due to that.

All is not lost, and you can get somewhat accurate.

If you trust his experience he also said this "... set temperature to 470 F using scrap cotton and "cotton burn test" until light golden brown. Adjust TCR until passed. DO NOT OHM LOCK! If your Atty is unstable then don't use it in TC .. get a new Atty. Whenever I have a new wire I use a rock solid and resistance stable RDA with one spaced coil until I have a TFR or TCR that I know works"

Notice all the ranges below.

 

Edited October 26, 2017 by Wayneo
Added image

[DarkRitualz]

I'm having ss316L issues as well. So I make a coil and fire it, the DNA chip gives me a Resistance reading that is far off what steam engine says it should be. I have 250 Mod and a 75c mod that both tell me the same thing so i know it isnt the chip. The numbers will be off by 20% or more so i am wondering if my wire is not actually 316L. Anyone Have This Happen Before?

[Wayneo]

@DarkRitualz That's just the nature of SS. If both your mods read it the same resistance, what's the issue?

Yes, I've seen it before with s****y Demon Killer wire and notch coils. 

[mstave]

On 12/10/2017 at 4:13 PM, DarkRitualz said:

I'm having ss316L issues as well. So I make a coil and fire it, the DNA chip gives me a Resistance reading that is far off what steam engine says it should be. I have 250 Mod and a 75c mod that both tell me the same thing so i know it isnt the chip. The numbers will be off by 20% or more so i am wondering if my wire is not actually 316L. Anyone Have This Happen Before?

I have had this problem with wire that read off what Steam Engine reports.  If you want to use the wire, try this - set up the Wire Wizard page with a dual strand of twisted 30 wire, using the smaller guage wire than yours, same ID and # of wraps - use 316L for one and then try 430 for the other - if the resulting coil resistance is close to yours, note the TCR reading, and then put a new profile in your mod, set the material to the TCR from Wire Wizard, then try the vape.  If the resistance isn't close to yours, try lowering the guage of the SS430.