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As the board has common ground am I correct in thinking I can connect the battery neg to the 510 and then on to the ground pad rather than going to the B-?

I won't be relying on the enclosure as a part of the path, there will be continuity between the battery neg and the ground pad. I'll still be grounding the board via the mounting lugs.

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Check this out. Here is my Hotcig DX200 with a Subtank with a Ni200 0.09 ohm in the RBA Mini Plus.

[7Pv6lle] 

Here is the same Subtank running on a Lost Vape Triade.

[tlojhVR] 


Noticed the Triade is far much smoother? What is the difference? Well Daniel (DJLsb Vapes) said his DX200 uses the aluminum box for the 510 ground and the board ground instead of ground for the 510.

All I can say is to try it and it doesn't work really smooth, it would be easy to add the correct ground, right?

UPDATE: CB was typing while I was too. So I didn't see it until later.

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@dwcraig1: As I stated, it is a Ni200 0.092 ohm coil. Same one on both mods.

Say I just saw your problem awhile back on one of mine. I solved it, but I don't recall what I did. I believe it was happening on a Crown RBA. What are you using for an atty?

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BillW50 said:

@dwcraig1: As I stated, it is a Ni200 0.092 ohm coil. Same one on both mods.

Say I just saw your problem awhile back on one of mine. I solved it, but I don't recall what I did. I believe it was happening on a Crown RBA. What are you using for an atty?


Not sure what problem, refresh my memory.
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Thanks for the comments guys.

To clarify I plan using the Cisco 510, the brass solder/capture ring has six holes, I plan on using 2 of them, one for the battery neg wire and one for the connection to ground pad. Heavy gauge wire will be used.
Although the enclosure is aluminium it's the ring that makes the connection. As I said I will still make sure the board is grounded via the 3 mounting lugs. 

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Bill, you made me look.  Granted these traces are from a DNA75 and a DNA200, but one, the DNA200, has the 510  connected to the board with a 12 gauge wire and the other, DNA75, get ground for the 510 from the body and gets board ground the same way.  Both traces show fairly smooth temperature regulation, no sharp peaks and valleys.

ERM-DNA75_trace.jpg  1590G-DNA200_trace.jpg 

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awsum140 said:

Bill, you made me look.  Granted these traces are from a DNA75 and a DNA200, but one, the DNA200, has the 510  connected to the board with a 12 gauge wire and the other, DNA75, get ground for the 510 from the body and gets board ground the same way.  Both traces show fairly smooth temperature regulation, no sharp peaks and valleys.



Yes I see. Well I am planning on getting a second DX200 and see how that one pans out. Maybe there is a bad solder joint in mine.
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BillW50 said:

@scooby: It is worth a shot and it should work, but if there is a problem you will find out. It is definitely worth a shot.



Thanks for that. All in the planning stage atm and plans seem to evolve as I gather the hardware, good to know it's probably ok.
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dwcraig1 said:

Same build....is it the same atty...not just same model atty?



Yes, same atty and build. On the one not hitting temperature, the coil reads a higher resistance. But those Crown RBAs have been known of not making the greatest connection sometimes.
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I always look at the low temp as a sign that the wick is saturated well and could take more power. This is providing the cold and live ohms show correctly. 
If mine hit the temp set I make whatever changes to keep it below that temp. Generally see how many watts it can take before hitting temp and back it off some. 430 F is my usual setting.

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Oh yes, you vape by wattage dominance. While I vape by temperature dominance. And if I vape MTL with something like a Subtank or Crown, 20 watts is twice as much wattage you really need. But it also works like preheat being twice as high. Although moving to an RDA like a Mad Hatter v2, you need at least 25 watts to hit temperature so setting it to 50 watts works the same way.

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the output gnd and battery gnd are interconnected. so it shouldn't make a difference which pad the battery neg is soldered to. the battery neg is not being soldered to the box. what hotcig did and what this person is trying to do are two different things. 510 gnd stability is not in question, an alternative to where to solder the batt neg is. he wants to ADD the batt neg to his 510 gnd wire going to the board.

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ChunkyButt200 said:

the output gnd and battery gnd are interconnected. so it shouldn't make a difference which pad the battery neg is soldered to. the battery neg is not being soldered to the box. what hotcig did and what this person is trying to do are two different things. 510 gnd stability is not in question, an alternative to where to solder the batt neg is.

 
You are correct, the Hotcig is wired like the ERM. The poster wants to run the output ground to the 510's body as well as the batteries negative to the 510's body. At least that's what I got fromit after I read it a few times.
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And along the same lines of thought, the battery taps for the balance connection shouldn't really matter if one wire is a few CM longer or shorter than another. But Evolv recommends they all be exactly the same length. Pretty hard to do with 18650s in series in a sled.

Along the same logic as Evolv, I think the ground and the positive should also be the same length for the very same reasons. Sure you don't have to, but doing so should be less problematic. After all, any measurable resistance is going to have a measurable effect at 11.1v at 23A.

Newton's Third Law of Motion
For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.

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