Doing all the testing and setup of a DNA 200 Mod.

[LarryLenz]

Why doesn't Evolv offer the parts or equipment to us customers so we can set up or mods properly?  It seems that most Mod makers using the Evolv DNA 200 are NOT setting them up correctly, or are not even setting them up at all.  I've read here that you need a shorted device to connect to the top of your mod to check the current loss.  How are WE as Customers to set up our mods if we don't have the tools to do so?  And why didn't Evolv require mod makers to set up and do the proper testing of their mods BEFORE shipping them out to customers?

Just some questions I have.  Thanks

[lewisss]

Hi, i agree with mod makers {especially the big makers } should take the time to set up the mods before they are shipped, case analyser, battery analyser and mod resistance should be set by the manufacturers.

Not so sure about evolve being responsible for supplying tools to test and ensuring mods are tested before shipping.

the tools required are very simple. a bent piece of copper wire pushed into the 510 will give you mod resistance, battery analyser can be done with a loop of Kanthal or a number of high power resistors in parallel.

the case analyser needs no tools

[VapingBad]

Evolv give the tool away free: Escribe, everything else a mod maker would have or be able to easily make.  They can't force their customers to set up mods as they should, all they can do is ask them to.

[LarryLenz]

lewisss, 

Could you explain how I can do these tests in a little more detail please?

a bent piece of copper wire pushed into the 510 will give you mod resistance, battery analyser can be done with a loop of Kantha

What exactly do you mean by a piece of copper wire pushed into the 510?

Battery analyser - loop of Kanthal...  Put a coil on a RTA and run the Battery Analyser?  I just don't know exactly what you mean.

Thanks in advance for the help  

[scoopy]

Make 2 big loops in the rda.......One on each side and sticking out far away from the deck. Run battery analyser at 40 or 50 watts until yest is done and that will give you your battery curve and correct watt hours For mod resistance u use a piece of copper jammed in the 510 or put the biggest fattest piece of solid copper wire in the posts of and rda to short it and run atomiser analyser .....u then use 80% of whatever the raw ohms say (multiply the raw ohms by 80% in calculator to get the correct reading and put that into mod resistance box and upload settings)

[LarryLenz]

Thanks Scoopy.   I will do it today.  Most appreciated  

[scoopy]

No problem buddy. Just make sure when you do the battery analyser that u use 22 or 24 gauge wire.Cut two 1 foot pieces of wire and put one end of one wire in positive post and put the other end in the negative post.Repeat with the other wire on the opposite side of the deck so it's basically dual loops

[TheKnux]

scoopy said:

No problem buddy. Just make sure when you do the battery analyser that u use 22 or 24 gauge wire.Cut two 1 foot pieces of wire and put one end of one wire in positive post and put the other end in the negative post.Repeat with the other wire on the opposite side of the deck so it's basically dual loops

Is there any way you can upload a quick pic of the wire loops?

[scoopy]

Yes sir! Her ya go......maybe they are a little longer than 1 foot so maybe 1 1/4 feet each. If the mod keeps saying ohms to high u might just have to stop the test and trim some off.....also using 22 gauge like I did will help keep the ohms down

[LarryLenz]

Scoopy,

For the wire loops, are you using Kanthal or NI200?   I'm assuming Kanthal but I want to be sure.

Thanks

[bingbling]

LarryLenz said:

Scoopy,

For the wire loops, are you using Kanthal or NI200?   I'm assuming Kanthal but I want to be sure.

Thanks

Kanthal

[scoopy]

Yes Kanthal

[vaperoutlaw]

scoopy said:

For mod resistance u use a piece of copper jammed in the 510 or put the biggest fattest piece of solid copper wire in the posts of and rda to short it and run atomiser analyser .....u then use 80% of whatever the raw ohms say (multiply the raw ohms by 80% in calculator to get the correct reading and put that into mod resistance box and upload settings)

Can you explain this more? Maybe post a picture. So you just put a piece of copper in the 510 so it's touching the pin and the threads? Then what do you do, run an analyzer?

[scoopy]

Yes.... try to find a solid copper nut to fit it or a solid copper rod. Some have also wadded up some 14 gauge copper wire so it fits tight on the pin and threads. Another easy way is to put the shortest fattest piece of copper wire that will fit in the posts of an rda (the bigger the post holes the better...... velocity deck works good) Put one end of the copper wire in the positive post and the other in the negative post. Then open escribe and click atomiser analyser. Whatever the Raw Ohms say you use 80% of that value and put that in the mod resistance box and upload settings (so if u get 0.010 for raw ohms you would type in 0.008 for your mod resistance) If you have any questions let me know

[kitila]

The thread size is m7x.5 if you can find a copper or bass bolt. Got lucky local hardware store had a few

[Guest]

if you can solder a board you could come off a dripper connection to a 40 watt light bulb, I think I read 40 watt being a good discharge rate

[Guest]

LarryLenz said:

Why doesn't Evolv offer the parts or equipment to us customers so we can set up or mods properly?  It seems that most Mod makers using the Evolv DNA 200 are NOT setting them up correctly, or are not even setting them up at all.  I've read here that you need a shorted device to connect to the top of your mod to check the current loss.  How are WE as Customers to set up our mods if we don't have the tools to do so?  And why didn't Evolv require mod makers to set up and do the proper testing of their mods BEFORE shipping them out to customers?

Just some questions I have.  Thanks

I was using mine for about a week before I connected it to a computer, they work great as is, no worries,
just buy your board from an evolve approved supplier.......

[patricklui]

I'm using vt200, I try calculate the battery watt hour, it come out 14 something, should change it. Original it keyin 9 only.

[TheRedBaron]

If people who do the reviews of these products on youtube would take the time to see how poorly these devices are setup from the factory and include that info in the review, the manufacturers would fix the problem expediently. If you really want to see a change, post a comment in a reviewers youtube of all the info he/she left out. If the owners of the products post solid info left out by the reviewer, the reviewers will change. Sample: I have an Hcigar VT200. I ran the Battery Analyzer and fond out it only has a 1000mah battery in it and the Case Analyzer info was never set up from the factory either. Why didn't you include that info in your review? I gave a thumbs down for this review and that's why. Please include this basic info in your future reviews.

[Guest]

Has the products performance changed greatly since you connected it to a computer and put all things right? Personly i have never bought a mod i have only built my own, and with the dna 200 to be quite honest, i did set the battery peramerterd to what escribe calculated and only droped the boost punch wattage a bit, other than that just geeked around a bit but overall it performed perfectly straight off the work bench. But using ni200..to add.. i know exactly what you mean about some youtube reviewers.. they must all have alzhiemers, it takes them half hour to get the box open, laughable.. some just like to hear the sound of their own voice, look like theyve had their hair done specialy, look like theyre wearing make up turned their spare room into a studio and spent a fortune on broardcasting equipment..living a little fantasy..shame they dont review themselves. Try the vapin bogun, hes ok for about five minutes.. or les picken..

[LarryLenz]

Originally Posted by davemaxx
I was using mine for about a week before I connected it to a computer, they work great as is, no worries,
just buy your board from an evolve approved supplier.......

Well davemaxx, I have an Hcigar VT200.  Authorized vendor I suppose, since Evolv sold them their boards.  My mod was not set up at all.  Had to test it myself and set it up.

[MacVap]

Hello,

I hope you don't mind me resurrecting an old thread, but I thought it was the most appropriate. I have some questions about the Kanthal test.

1. Won't the wire be annealled from the heat and collapse down, possibly damaging everything around it? I guess not, since many people had run the test, but in which cases could it happen? What gauge and length would be the safest? I have max 26 AWG. I think that there are two opposing situations here - the wire would need to be longer for cooling, but the danger of collapsing is greater with longer wire.
 
2. Also, wouldn't longer wire have too much resistance? What is the acceptable resistance range?

3. Would twisted wire help or not?

4. Please remind me what was the recommended starting battery level, I read it somewhere, but I don't know if it was for this test. And I forgot what it was.

Thank you

[VapingBad]

It depends on the power level, but with a 75 I get away with 4 parallel loops of 0.5 mm about the radius of a tennis ball, they don't get too hot the heat sinking back into the case is more an issue and I use an old computer fan that keeps the case & battery cool but it is not essential.  This is what I used to do custom battery test, I just use a single 3" fan now.
 

[MacVap]

A long time has passed and I've still not done the test. Probably because I mostly use the SMY DNA 75, and that requires frequent battery changes, and I have different types, so I think it would be pointless.

Or not? That is my next question:

If I use different types of batteries, would I need to change the battery profile in Escribe every time I change the battery type?

And another one:

If I "dress up" my mod in a silicone sleeve, will I need to run Case Analyzer again?

Both questions apply to DNA 200 and DNA 75, I have both types of devices.

Thank you in advance.

[giz_60]

MacVap said:

If I use different types of batteries, would I need to change the battery profile in Escribe every time I change the battery type?

The profile is only going to help the battery indicator on the device to be a bit more accurate. I rotate through 3 different brand of batteries, but only keep the one profile in the device.

MacVap said:

If I "dress up" my mod in a silicone sleeve, will I need to run Case Analyzer again?

If you are using TC, it would be a good idea to re-run the analyzer with the sleeve on. You can save a profile without the sleeve & one with the sleeve, and change them out depending on how you have your device dressed. Proper case thermal values are important in TC mode!