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ImKira

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Everything posted by ImKira

  1. Version 2

    1,306 downloads

    I took Spirited Away.GNIC 1.1 by Guy Nicolson Added a Hold to change Boost Screen, flipped all of the images, adjusted the positioning for the New Coil Yes/No screen (Screen was also modified to show the arrows since Up is down or to the Right on my BB. Soruce for OG Spirited Away.GNIC 1.1 theme by Guy Nicolson
  2. Hello, I've noticed that my DNA 60 is reporting a battery percentage that is about 20-25% higher then my xtar vp4 charger reports. IE: DNA60 48% vs Xtar 25% I'd run the battery analyzer my self, but I don't really have a place or the proper tools to do it safely.
  3. Version 2.1

    712 downloads

    The base theme is RNG 1.0.0 By vipyvapy I added Welcome screens for the Psyclone SqEvo, with Pixel art Hadalys
    Love the theme. It covers pretty much every thing! If you see this, please let us know what font you used. 🙂
  4. Update: I did get a response back from Evolv's technical support. They said that 18 gauge is sufficient for the output and ground at 60 watts. But never responded to my question about the DNA 60, 75, 200, and 250 all using the same wire specs.
  5. I have a SqEvo, that I'm looing to repair, and I'm wondering if the wire used in it's original construction is appropriate. It appears to be 18 gauge solid core enameled wire. The mod in question has 10.8 hours on it according to EScribe and I suspect friction of the battery positive wire rubbing against the 510 while the button was being pressed, is the cause for the enamel being burnt off the wire. Originally I was going to just desolder the Battery positive and put heat shrink over it, but then I started questioning the gauge of the wire used on the 510 + and the board ground. Is 18 gauge solid core wire adequate for a DNA 60 positive 510 and the ground connection? I've been looking through the Evolv datasheets and I'm left wondering, Did Evolv under or over spec the Wire for the DNA 60, DNA 75, DNA 200, and or the DNA 250, as they all have the same Specs? I'm not an electrical engineer, so any insight you can offer would be appreciated.
  6. The one that I DD took a tumble off my lap when I got out of the car on to pavement, IIRC. I'm honestly surprised it wasn't worse.
  7. I had to remove the bottom mounting standoff that the old board screwed into. So the new charging board is only attached with one screw, but it is held in place by the micro USB port. so it doesn't go any where. Old pictures, but they show the screw stand of that is still there. I'd try to get a better picture, but every time remove the button housing, it's like flipping a coin. I had to resoled those little wires a couple times, and repair some traces on the button PCB, due to pads lifting. I wish the PCB was the same quality as the coating on the mod housing. Sadly, it is on the cheaper end of PCB's, that I have dealt with. Also, the cable that they used for the stock button wiring, was a PITA, It was very plasticky and it was a ribbon cable, so I replaced it with wires scavenged form a USB cable, that matched it's gauge. Micro USB protrudes a little bit, but IIRC, it's about the same as the stock one did. I also had to modify the button housing, to add extra room for the spring loaded 510, since it sat down a little bit lower. Also, thank you for the pics that show voltage drop with a good and a bad cell.
  8. Ouch, hopefully you get it. I got one form VapinArt in the US for $185, then found the second one of ebay for $75. lol Couple of new pics: The other one, tooks some fall damage, but it's still in pretty good shape, for being my DD, for about 2-3 years.
  9. I was able to run the mod after cleaning the contacts, with out getting a low battery warning, but I was raising an eyebrow at the .5 volt drop, which lead me to investigating. I also did some more scrubbing on my other one, and I was able to get the other one's voltage drop down to 0.36, with the same cell. They are both wired the same. After looking at both of these as in-depth as I have, I think I could probably get the Voltage drop lower, by Adding a ground point between the 510 and the upper case, and re routing the battery negative to directly attach to the upper half. Both mods that I will do when I get access to my tools again. Here is a couple more beauty shots, from when I converted them to DNA 60's for ya. Edit: Wish I knew, why the forum, keeps trying to grab stuff from my clipboard, when I am dragging and dropping images from a folder. lol
  10. It utilizes a chassie ground through one of the two screws, that hold the two half's together. Eventually I intend to mod the it with a spacer between the two half's and tube insert for the battery compartment, so it will run on 21700's. When I do that, I might see about running a separate ground to the the top half of the mod. But I still need to figure out what material I want to use for the spacer and solve the issue of most of my tools and stuff being in another country. lol
  11. Well I think I found the problem. The positive wires on the 510 appear to be breaking. Think this one is going to get shelved, until I get my soldering gear back.
  12. The battery was fully charged, firing at 22 watts on a 1.6 ohm coil. I was getting about 0.8-1.0 of voltage drop, before cleaning the contact points. After cleaning: Imgur link, incase the uploaded photo breaks: https://i.imgur.com/5VQ9Udf.png When I re did the mod with the DNA 60 Board, I used all new wire following the specs in the evolve DNA 60 data sheet. The wire used, was the Ölflex Silicone wire sold by modmaker. That's about half of what I'm getting. What type of wire are you running for your coil. I'm using 3mm, 8 wrap, 28awg Kanthal A1 coil at 1.6 ohms. I've tried the same coil in both my Kayfun Prime and my Cthulhu 1928. Also, is your DNA 60, one of the new ones or did you convert one of the older DNA 40 models to a DNA 60?
  13. I was getting a weak battery indication, so I hooked it up to the computer and was seeing voltage drop some where around 0.6-1v (didn't get a screen shot). So I started cleaning all of the contact points: Battery cover threads and contacts, positive contact, Ground contact, 510 pin, 510 ground contact, the screws and their holes, that connect the two half's of the mod. Best I can get is a .46 voltage drop. I'm use to seeing a 0.2 voltage drop on my Dani 25, with the same atomizers and builds. So started investigating and tinkering. I went as far as to loosen up the two half's of the XvoStickPro, so I could use one of my Samsung INR21700-40Ts, that I run in my Dani 25. It showed similar voltage drop to the Vapecell INR26650 G53, with in a couple hundredths of a volt... Is a 0.5 voltage drop, the best that I'm going to get or should I be expecting to see closer to something closer to the 0.2 voltage drop, that I get on my Dani 25 or am I comparing apples to oranges?.. Best I've I can get, after cleaning all contacts and threads on my XvoStickPro running a Vapcell INR26650 G53: Originally it came with a DNA 40, back in 2018 I converted it to a DNA 60 for SSTC. https://i.imgur.com/kkAmiUL.jpg
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