MikeTheVapeDude

No, the resistance is upwards of .4-.6 ohms. The amperage isn't even passing 25A on most of my builds.

I just noticed this. The maximum output of the chip is 9V. I switched from SS fused claptons to kanthal fused claptons to get a higher resistance because I like a high output voltage. I like heat, I like no ramp up. So, on my SMY SDNA200 (v2) the maximum output is 8.74V, on the Bigger DNA200 it's 8.62V, on my 6,200 20C 3S powered custom DNA200, it's 8.98. What's up with this? I couldn't find any information elsewhere, so I'm asking.

See, I find it insulting that this finally went in the direction I wanted it to after all my posts were deleted and I was made look like a fool who wanted to have a measuring contest with clouds because I vape on thick staple claptons on a daily basis. So now I just look like a cl0ud br0 and have no validity left in anything I said. If it's okay for people to quote electronics law at me that I've in the past on this forum clearly demonstrated I know due to being an engineer and treat me like an idiot and say I'm here to measure size, but it's not okay for me to call attention to how offensive that is to me I genuinely don't want to be a part of this community anymore. I'm out, all over this. This have given me a picture of what I need to know, and outside of getting firmware out of the thread I won't be coming back here or posting anymore. Thanks for insulting me and making me look like a fool.

I'll have to call "I'll believe it when I see it." on this one.

That sounds like it could work in theory, but I'm not sure if the DNA200 board itself would allow operation with what it would essentially detect as a dead cell on it. Seems it would just display imbalanced battery warnings.

So change Escribe to 8.4V mode and basically create a pseudocell for the third connection?

Did he seriously just recommend dead shorting a battery?

I actually ended up with both the SMY SDNA200 (Updated Ver) and the BiGGeR DNA I replaced the 510 on. I also have a custom DNA that has a HUGE 6,200mah 20C Lipo in it that I absolutely love but the thing is massive. That new Player Mod looks baller. Swaps out with a 1,100mah Lipo and a dual 18650 133 sled. You can even buy spare lipos for it.

As someone who often uses low ohm clapton and staple builds that require a high voltage to get a good ramp up, I wonder if the wattage will ever go beyond 200W? Even 220W would be fine with me, cause then I could hit 5V on my low ohm builds. It's not about cl0udz br0, it's about low ohm clapton builds for me, 200W doesn't quite give me the ramp up I'd like. Plus 200W is becoming the past with 213W, and even 300W mods coming out now. I do actually use high wattage, and I'm too in love with and loyal to the DNA to go anywhere else, so I just figured I'd ask.

Just like to say the SMY SDNA V2 has been the best retail under $200 Lipo-powered DNA200 I've used so far. I'd still like to check out the Panzer, but considering how large that beast is, same size battery, don't see a point. The BiGGeR just came. It definitely is big. 510 is already replaced, took 7 1/2 minutes. Works great, just large. Love them both so much I'm either going to sell the Lavabox or the Vaporshark. Not sure which. I think I like the Lavabox more but the LEDs on the Shark make me like it more sometimes too. I just don't see a point in owning four DNA200's with two Cuboids, a Laisimo 200W, a Snow Leopard, an IPV5, a Wismec Noisy Grenade (Cricket) and a preorder on the SX Mini Q-Class 450SX powered sure-to-be-a-let down chip. I'm just sick of companies trying to convince us they can do a legit flat-signal 200W with only two cells and do it safely. This .00001 ohms nonsense is just, eh, too. That's so close to a dead short, and it would take, a metric ****ton of wattage to even get that thing to glow faintly at a resistance that low.

I bought an SMY SDNA200 at a B&M, BiGGeR is on its way. I'm at no shortage of money, I'm an Electrical Engineer, I just suck at spending my money (I'm in my early 20's and I make six figures, but I came from a dirt poor Serbian family and ended up in the US with a rich adoptive family who wouldn't even give me food to eat. I've worked for everything I had and even though I have the wealth and good health I just can't run away from my roots.) so even though I can afford these $250+ mods I just can't let myself do it. I bought two DNA's for $300. Better than taking a gamble on one of these dyed, stab wood mods that are so expensive. The sDNA seems to function alright. It had presets on it, though all have been removed and replaced with my own. Finish is a bit eh, it's the newer one but I don't like the clear coat look though overall it's okay. The battery life for the past few hours has decently surprised me for a 1,500mah Lipo. The only thing I really DISLIKE about the sDNA is the raised 510 that prevents my stuff from sitting flush but the gap is very thin. The only potential worry long term I have is I've heard the Lipo is packed in here with the fist of Zeus and is likely to be damaged upon removal. My entire job is improving the design and construction of lithium polymer batteries and insuring quality control, I know what happens to the level of being able to thoroughly describe it in paragraphs what happens when a pack is punctured. It's not like thermal runaway (venting) at all, it's an oxygen exposure situation that almost certainly ensures the pack will swell and likely catch fire, and if it's stuck in the mod there goes the mod and possibly my carpet. The decal protecting the removal screw wouldn't be a huge loss, I could cut a J-wrap to the diameter and shape to recover it, but. Plus it's soldered to the board. So, given my horrid solder skills and the firm securing of everything in this mod, if it craps out it's going on warranty. I'd rather not void a warranty trying to fix something I highly doubt will be easy. The BiGGeR I took apart, my friend has one, I could literally replace the 510 in that mod in five minutes. Replacing a 510 in a HUGE mod that's easy to take apart is a different story than making one. My issue with DIY is wiring the DNA200 board. I know both how to wire it for triple 18650 and lithium polymer, even dual. I know the board well enough, I've seen diagrams, I'm an engineer, the issue I run into is I am NOT AT ALL IN ANY SHAPE OR FORM good at soldering. I'm not a steady handed person. I already have pins/screws and a plate holding my femur together from an injury I took in the Marines, I'd rather not blow my hand off by accidentally bridging another solder joint. I know the fuse on the board is supposed to stop huge malfunctions like that, but in my field I've seen all kinds of safety precautions on the most well designed high dollar equipment fail, plus ruining an $80 board is a drag too. So for now, unless they make soldering a lot easier for me, no DIY mods, modifying one part of a mod is different. The problem is wiring the board itself, the switches, 510, all that is EASY in comparison to the micro-solder job the board requires.

No idea what you just said. There's an adapter that ships with the Lavabox DNA200, which I own, that allows USB charging through 2Amps. I know the VS has default onboard 2A, but it's only on that mod. I've made my decision, order has already been placed. BiGGer DNA200, triple 18650 mod. Going to get it, tear the stock 510 out, replace it with a 22mm varitube which will fit perfectly down into the recessed cup on the BiGGer, solder it in, super glue and nut thread it tight, put it back together and vape using my book sized mod. I may get an SMY SDNA V2 later on, but for now I'm content.

I'm an engineer, I do much better on a computer than I do with a soldering iron. I've already tried to go DIY and it ended with a bunch of wasted money, time and frustration. If there's any triple 18650 DNA's that aren't outrageously expensive and have good 510's (and not massive as all hell like the BIGGER) I'll go with those any day of the week. I just don't want another Wismec, the 510 pin that can get stuck down inside the mod is a huge con and I'd rather not go through the experience again. I would honestly buy the bigger if the 510 wasn't a 22mm sunken cup, it prevents me from using anything over 22mm without loosening the 510 pin and messing up the resistance reading. UPDATE: Decided on the BiGGER. Learned that you can easily remove the four screws and open it up. I found a friend with one. The 510 on this looks like it would take ten minutes to replace, and once a Varitube was on this beast I'd be singing whistling dixie. I'm ordering it today, then when I get it I'll do what I do best. Void the hell out of the warranty. Some of you may be thinking. He won't make his own but he'll gladly tear a retail box apart and modify it? Yes. Because when I tried to make my own I was wiring it triple 18650, and I accidentally bridged a solder connection without noticing, then put batteries in it and fried that board like a bucket of KFC chicken. It's a whole different story to burn some solder joints off a 510, tear it out, drill a small hole (or if it's big enough just put it in), mount a new 510, super glue it in place so hard it'll stay put until 2142, then remove the 510 pin and solder it. I'm not the best with soldering. I'm an engineer, my skills are so much better on AutoCAD and PC rendering programs, when it comes to holding a soldering iron I suddenly go from Michael W. Lunsford to Michael J. Fox. My friend showing me the BiGGER did a lot. It wasn't as big as I thought it was. I also have extremely large hands (another reason I suck at soldering) so I had no problems holding it. I can hold three Joyetech Cuboid 150W mods side by side in the same hand, so I guess I should've figured I could hold the BiGGER. I actually like the feel of it, it's the first mod that's really filled my hand that wasn't unreasonable. A few years back, when I made unregulated box mods (much easier than wiring regulated boards, just saying), I made a series parallel (Two sets of batteries in 8.4V series paralleled.) 26650 box and I could hold it in my hand, but the side jetted out WAY past my grip. This thing actually fits in the width of my hand, and doesn't extend past my fingers. The only thing I didn't like was the position of the screen. I felt moving the screen to the side where the firing button is would've been better, because it just looks more, normal, and plus VapeCige wouldn't have had to run an offboard antivandal for a button. Or however they wired it, I assumed that was how, I didn't look into the internals too closely, just enough to where I could see I could change the 510 out easily enough if I needed to. That's all that matters, the solder job was good enough and nothing looked undersized. The Reuleaux had skimpy wiring, I replaced all the wires (excluding the balance wires and the 510 wires, basically just the wires running to the sled.) with 16 gauge stranded silver wiring. It was a bitch, I had to flatten out the wires to make it fit, but the battery efficiency went way up after I did. I regrounded it much better too, didn't trust the screw ground Wismec used. I guess if I would've replaced the 510 it would've been my dream mod, but, the 510 looked very hard to replace in the Reuleaux due to the fact I had already used up the very limited internal space with my bigger wiring. So I sold it. I may end up getting the BiGGer and the updated SMY. Order the SMY from China for like $110 and the BiGGer for $150 from the US. See which one I like more. I still have my Lavabox DNA200 and my Vaporshark DNA200, those work famously, the battery life is just awful.

Brooo, did you not read my post? Lol, I specifically said no Vapecige BIGGER or SMY 1,600. Vapecige is far too big, the 510 is cupped so my 25mm tanks and drippers (VCMT for sure, seen it tested) won't connect. Cheap looking. SMY has had a ton of battery issues. I don't want to spend 150+ on something I'm going to have to send out for warranty or repair myself on MONTH ONE. I get this is early adoption, but when the problems lie with the mods, not the boards, that's just poor quality control. The panzer I am genuinely interested in. 1,500 mah lipo is good enough, I might contact FullyMax (I work for them on their engineering department from home.) and see if I can have a higher capacity pack made to shove in there later, looks good. 1,500mah/35C is plenty for me though, I have the 2A wall charger from my LavaBox still (great DNA, horrible battery life. I know that's a FM battery and I'm supposed to like it by association, but 900-950mah is NOT good enough.) I was interested in if anyone here had used one. Got a feel. Seen how it's wired. The 510 on the panzer looks extremely easy to replace (HUGE PLUS) if it goes bad and looks good enough to not need to be replaced. I'm heavily leaning toward it. If there isn't a high failure rate on this thing and there's no red flags on the internals, it's most definitely the one I'll order. 4, something something number customs has a 2,000mah DNA200 I like, but I'm not spending $250 on it. The AxisVapes M17 is BEAUTIFUL, though the Lipo is a bit small and the price is a bit HELLNOish if you catch my drift. No china orders though. Last thing I ordered from China (wasn't during the Lunar New Year either) took 23 days to get to my home through ePacket Express. I am not that patient. Especially when spending over $150. As for size, the issue with the BIGGER is width. I can handle a longer mod, but even with my massive hands, I used a friend's BIGGER and it was just uncomfortable to hold for more than 30 seconds at a time. I really see no point for the mod to be that wide.

I've had the Reuleaux DNA200, which I did the screen-ribbon fix on, rewired it with bigger wiring. It did me really well, but the crappy Joyetech square 510 pin in the mod got stuck down and I didn't feel like replacing the entire 510, so I sold it for $120. Good mod, but the 510 killed me. Hana Modz V200, 510 stripped out on week one. VT Box200, not the HCigar Version. This thing literally fell apart on me. I don't want to go through making another DNA200, I already made one and it didn't turn out well. I'm an engineer, but when it comes to using a soldering iron and working in cramped spaces, I'm not exactly steady as a surgeon. I can rewire fire, but wiring up the entire DNA200 has lead me to frying two boards. I'm not doing it again. My question is, what is the best retail DNA200 that I won't have to compromise battery life on? No 900-1,300mah lipo powered ones, I'll vape those dead inside two hours, I vape exclusively at 120-150 watts. I LOVE this board, just, I can't seem to find a mod that contains it that doesn't have some sort of fatal flaw. On the Reuleaux it was the 510 pin, on the Hana it was the 510 threading (and the horrible, small lipo pack.), on the VT Box200, it was the entire mod. So, if anyone has a broad experience, here's what I'd like. At LEAST 1,400-1,600mah+ capacity. Full 200W output. Size isn't an issue, though I don't want any monstrously big mods like the BiGGer. 510 threading is solid and won't strip, 510 pin makes connections good and won't stick, isn't overly stiff or overly loose. 510's are where my luck goes straight to the toilet. A good 510 is the most important aspect of a mod to me personally. I'd also like something that doesn't have an absurdly high failure rate. The 1,600 SMY looked nice, then I read a ton of posts here and elsewhere about the Lipo pack failing or having a severely imbalanced/dead cell. Basically my criteria is: Nothing below 1,400mah, nothing with a high out-of-the-box failure rate, nothing that's over $220, nothing I'm going to have to do more DIY repairs on to make work like I want, full 200W three cell output and nothing absurdly large. So, under these things, what's the best retail DNA200 out there for me? I don't mean to sound demanding, but, I've had really good experiences with the board, really bad experiences with the mods containing the board. Please, oh wise people, assist my lost self. I saw the SX Mini Q Class SX450 200W mod and felt I might jump to that, then I saw it was dual 18650. I don't understand why Yihi is releasing something that's obviously a direct competitor to the DNA200 with only two cells at 200W. It's virtually impossible to get a safe 200W out of a mod using only two cells without using some sort of PWM or placebo the screen says 200W but the mod is giving 140W system. Plus after the battery sag (especially on lithium ion's) even at full charge, two cells trying to pull 200W at 3.5V after sag is going to pull a pretty high amperage and that's just not safe.

That's a load, the a button is BARELY causing the ribbon to move, not actually flexing or folding it, just touching it, it isn't going to break. Also, considering some of the abuse I've put Kanthal through, I'm not sure on the metaphor either. On the earlier DNA200D mods like the Pre-Production Hana Modz V200, like VB said, it getting flexed by the pinch between the button and the actuator could hurt it. But barely being touched by a plastic button, no. And I've put this particular ribbon through even more abuse and it has held up. I'm not buying into the worry, some are sensitive, some aren't. But barely being brushed against by soft plastic isn't going to hurt it regardless of the durability or your particular ribbon. It all goes back to what I said. I feel like the biggest problem here, is the consumer. Evolv was very vocal and honest about the DNA200D being in early Beta stages when it launched for purchase, and they can't hand out beta units to everyone for free to test it. I think companies like Hana Modz weren't vocal enough on the Beta stuff, because Hana acted like the mod itself (the casing) was all that would be changed, but the reality was this is a complex, high quality, brand new board (Even now, it's still fairly new) and with this kind of innovation there's gonna be problems in the start. But, Evolv has ALWAYS been honest about that, and has great customer support, they're happy to help. The consumer, most of them, not all, but enough to make it a problem, however. Basically completely deleted the notion of this board being in early beta from their minds. Then when they ran into problems, they all acted so angry and surprised. Now, if the mod is poorly built, like the VT Box 200 and the earlier Hana Modz V200 boxes, that's no excuse. That's all on the third party manufacturer, not Evolv and not the consumer. But, if the mod is made to at least minimum standard and holds up well and works, then it all comes down to the board. We are BETA TESTERS, every single one of us with a DNA200D mod, regardless of if we made the mod, we bought the mod or we got sent one for free. Now, as I said, provided the mod is well made by the third party company, everything else is AT YOUR OWN RISK like Evolv has basically already stated. Yet, most consumers seem to forget this, and every single time a new DNA200D mod is released, everyone is eager and amped up to go on a witch hunt. This is partially because the board is in beta and nobody seems to understand that, and partially because some of these modding companies have released some sloppy mods. But nitpicking at things are are HIGHLY unlikely to cause problems is a bit much, and it's almost disrespectful. All these $50 Chinese mods coming out that everyone loves, I bet you a fat stack of bills you could wrench them apart and find all kinds of possible future disasters inside, but you never hear anyone talking about it. There's mods out there that will vent at idle, catch fire and even explode. But everyone is losing their minds because the screen ribbon in the Reuleaux is BARELY being TOUCHED, not FLEXED, by a small plastic button. It's absolute lunacy.

A fog machine is only 300W. That's not enough for s1ck cl0udz br0. We need 30 Trillion Billion Gigawatts. We need to find a way, to trap two red giant stars in an atomizer, and then when the bass drops the stars can collapse into dual black holes and really push s1ck cl0udz that get spaghettified instantly. Screw temp control, let's use our mods to somehow isolate two quarks and create a reaction that fogs out the entire universe. Screw cotton, we got PLANETS yo. Somebody whip up 999 trillion gallons of ejuice for one hit.

I feel a lot of it is ignorance to the subject and knowing how to properly use it, and experiences with horrible devices that don't have very responsive or accurate TC. I used to hate TC when my only option was the SX350J and DNA40. The issue wasn't the experience, I understood full well how to operate and fine tune things, there just wasn't enough power, and NO variety, Nickel was the best there was. Then, when devices started to offer 100W/J+, and higher temperature ranges (I usually stay at 480-510F, I like my vape warm still, no 380F for me) I could get what I wanted. Then the DNA200D offered a wide variety of wire and curve options, power, and then I never looked back to regular Kanthal again. So either people have no idea what they're doing and need someone to properly teach them how so they can enjoy it, or their only experience with it is through a bad device. That being said, there is a third group, people who just genuinely don't like it. To each their own, I personally don't understand it, but hey, it's not smoke they're inhaling.

I've vaped at 1,500 watts at .1 on a 3S Unregulated box. Mutation XL V3 with a custom made top cap that had a Turbo-style fan turbine. I had to use rayon for wicks to avoid catching the entire build on fire. It can be done, though I don't recommend it. I will say if you're going for clouds that IS the way to go, though. LOL

Five words. Unregulated PWM 4S Lipo Box. A car battery is only 12 volts, a 3S Lipo/Triple 18650 setup is 12.6V at full charge. So.. Though a 12V car battery can take a hell of a lot higher amperage drain than most Lithium Polymer, Lithium Ion and Lithium Phosphate cells can.

Now see THAT makes a lot more sense, as far as being worried goes. But before I fixed my Reuleaux, I watched it with a 1,200 lumen flashlight shined into the case, and I watched the button. The button BARELY caused the ribbon to flex, and it didn't even cause it to really flex, it just pushed the U shape downward a bit, and this ONLY HAPPENED when you pressed the lower portion of the button. If you pressed the upper or center portion, it didn't even touch it. Why are so many people losing their minds over something that isn't even a real problem? Because the original pinches were real problems and people are confusing minor things with them? It seems like every time a new DNA200D mod comes out, a certain number of people are just amped up to roast the company at the stake, nitpicking at every little thing. I completely understand having concerns and being vocal about them, but these days it seems like consumers in the vape industry are always on some sort of witch hunt, and they ignore REAL problems like mods that explode and vent at idle, to worry over the button on the Reuleaux lightly pressing into the screen ribbon. I just, do not get it at ALL. If this was a Chinese board nobody would be saying anything, just the typical run of the mill 'you get what you pay for' thing, and that's OKAY. I get paying $150+ for a mod that comes with problems is, wrong, and it angers you. But some of the things people are calling 'problems' these days just keep getting more and more minor.

It seems to be it's a half and half. Because if this ribbon can take the abuse I've given it and still be fine, then people worrying about the buttons lightly flexing their ribbons seems a bit pointless. But yet, I've personally witnessed how easy it can be to break one trying to position the one that my Reuleaux originally contained into an S Fold. I guess some of these ribbons are just tough, and others are just sensitive. Either way, I'd still recommend people use caution when folding or moving them around, but at the same time I'd like to let people know not every screen ribbon is as sensitive as a snowflake.

Oh I know what people mean, as I messed up the original screen in my Reuleaux and had to get a new one. The screen this time was attached to a board on these new mods I'm making me for and a few friends. Not many want to pay $500 for a DNA200 enclosed in one of the most expensive types of wood on the planet. As I was positioning the ribbon with an S fold as I did in my Reuleaux, as I'm using mahogany wooden cut insert buttons much like the Reuleaux uses plastic insert buttons, I didn't want a screen pinch and I didn't see why I needed to use a voltage regulator and install another button when I could use inserted buttons that feel great and match the box perfectly. But as I was folding it, I accidentally basically bent and flattened it. Then I noticed the screen still worked. I have five boards, five screens and then I paid an extra $6 for two, single screens with no board for backups. So, knowing even if I broke the ribbon for this screen, I had backups, I began to stress test the ribbon. I flattened it, bent it, pressured it, folded it next to the ZIF pins, folded it next to the screen glass and even roughly pulled the screen, trying to separate it from the screen itself. The ribbon looks like an accordion now it's so janky, but the screen functions PERFECTLY. I'm saying that, without just, ripping it off the screen or cutting it, I CANNOT break this screen ribbon, when the ribbon on the first screen in my Reuleaux broke with me barely even folding it. I'm asking did Evolv beef these up, or is this just the little screen ribbon who could keep on going? Lol.

Have you tried using a custom CSV curve off Steam Engine? Just curious. Naturally it's only set to detect nickel. G1 Titanium is the curve you want. If you ARE using the custom curve, it makes me wonder if your 510 is detecting the atomizer properly, or even if the atomizer has a secure and stable enough connection to be used with TC.

DNA20,000 confirmed.